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your
car, at worst we provide some mild entertainment for our readers.
If you are
still with me, let's give it a go ...
First of all
I would resist driving the car until you identify and correct the problem(s).
The symptoms you describe not only create the great possibility of a safety
issue, adjusting the driving style to compensate for the original problem
could very well end up creating other problems. This not to mention the
creation of a cycle of frustration related to the car, which is hardly
the ideal troubleshooting environment.
I would first
isolate any possible accelerator linkage binding problems. Bring the car
up to normal operating temperature, then shut it down. Loosen the throttle
cable (at the carburettors) enough so that the throttle butterflies are
at their "idle" position, and then with the car in neutral, wheels chocked
and emergency brake set, start the car and note the idle speed.
If the idle
speed is acceptable, blip the throttle by hand, noting how quickly it returns
to idle speed. If it does not return to idle and you are sure the throttle
cable is slack enough that it is not binding, then it sounds like the problem
lies within the carburettor's throttle linkage itself, possibly as simple
as the throttle return spring being broken/missing/weak. If however, with
the cable loose the car drops back to idle then this points to binding
problems within the accelerator assembly. Consider replacing the accelerator
cable as a preventative measure as well as checking, cleaning & lubricating
the pedal's mechanism.
If even with
the throttle cable slackened the idle is still too high, using your hand
check the range of motion for the throttle assemblies on the carbs. Obviously
the "idle" position should correspond to a smooth slow tick over, I presume
in the < 1000rpm category. If this is not the case then check to make
sure nothing is binding and the throttle stop screws are backed out accordingly. |
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I
consider this to be on the fringe of the "making things worse" category
(ie. Completely undrivable), so don't be embarrassed to throw in the towel
and take it to a shop.
If
however you're still with us and after doing all of this you still have
not located the problem, then it points to something more difficult to
find such as a vacuum leak (as you mentioned).
IMO there's
no easy way to check for vacuum leaks other than just getting in there.
Some old-timers say you can spray WD-40 on hoses & manifold joints
to see if it changes the engine seed, but I personally have never tried
it.
With the
engine running (wheels chocked, e-brake set), systematically go about the
hoses in the engine compartment (especially those nearer o the engine as
they are the ones most affected by engine heat and vibration), checking
the hose for cracking (crack kills) and brittleness. Also make sure the
ends of the hose are secure and that moving the hose dos not affect the
engine speed. When in doubt, replace the hose.
If by now
the problem hasn't jumped out at you it might be time to consider a professional,
that or host a Club meeting and then casually mention the problem while
you are standing around the snack table.
Depending
on your locale, there are several excellent Lotus repair businesses in
the Bay Area. Check the back of the Chapman Report for their addresses.
Should any
readers provide additional debugging suggestions I will print them here
and pass them along.
~Ed. |
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