A/C *

BATTERY *

BODY, Front trunk *

BODY, Parts *

BODY, Paint cleaner *

BODY, Paint Stripping *

BODY, Removal *

BODY, Sill installation *

BODY, Sill paint *

BODY, Windows *

BRAKES, Fluid *

BRAKES, Inboard rear *

BRAKES, Master cylinder *

BRAKES, Tubing *

BRAKES, Tubing flare *

CARBERATERS, Rebuilding *

CARBERATORS, Stromberg *

CARBERATERS, Webers *

CARBERATERS, Temperature compensators *

CHASSIS, Closing plate *

CHASSIS, Identification *

COOLING SYSTEM, Cassette pump *

COOLING SYSTEM, Coolant *

COOLING SYSTEM, Water pump *

DASH, Structural support *

ELECTRICAL, Regulator *

ENGINE, Timing *

ENGINE, Tuning *

ENGINE, Turning *

ENGINE, Valves *

ENGINE, Valve shims *

EXHAUST, Muffler *

HELICOIL, Removal *

IGNITION, Electronic *

INTRUMENTS, Speedometer *

INSTRUMENTS, Tachometer *

INTERIOR, Dashboard glue *

LIST, Subscribing *

NUTS & BOLTS, Grade specification *

OIL *

OIL, Change & additives *

STEERING, Tie rod ends *

SUSPENSION, Hubs *

SUSPENSION, Loctite *

SUSPENSION, Lower links *

SUSPENSION, Pin removal *

SUSPENSION, Rear ‘clunk’ *

SUSPENSION, Rear hubs *

SUSPENSION, Roll center *

SUSPENSION, Shock absorbers *

SUSPENSION, Shock adjustment *

SUSPENSION, Spring compression *

SUSPENSION, Spring shortening *

SUSPENSION, Sway bar *

SUSPENSION, Sway bar bushings *

SUSPENSION, Twin Cam - Special differences *

TRANSAXLE, Spirol pin *

TRANSMISSION, Drain plug *

TRANSMISSION, Gear change *

TRANSMISSION, Freeing clutch *

TRANSMISSION, Linkage *

TRANSMISSION, Removal *

WHEELS, Hubcentric *

WHEELS, Well trim *

WINDSHIELD, Washer *

bdboyle@fpe.erenj.com (Boyle, Bryan D.) Subject: AC in a 'Ropa Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 08:11:01 -0500
Aaron spake thus: >"squirrel cage" blower that feeds air to the air box in front. My Europa (Special) doesn't have this, if I remember correctly. It had something in the same place that I didn't recognize, with a mini radiator inside the air box (for heat?).

From: ClassMaker@AOL.com hillmotorsports@sympatico.ca writes: I seem to recall seeing a picture on a website (somewhere) showing an evaporator installation in the front boot/heater plenum.

Cool Aire -- once had a kit for the TC. I've seen one with my own eyes. Yes, in the front boot. Very tidy. On a yellow (L07) TC in Biloxi, Mississippi, 1973. Could go on the S2 as well... if you can find one!!! Inquire at Banks Europa (UK) and see what they know. There's someone in the Ohio area with one in their car, and a brand new spare kit on the shelf, as I heard it. Also, someone on these lists took one off their car, IIRC. There was some discussion a few months back. Search the archives at our site on www.onelist.com.

Tim Engel" <tengel@isd.net> Coolaire did an A/C system for the Europa TC... but that was a quarter of a century ago. At the time it was $235 complete with Sankyo compressor and 5.25" clutch. Such a deal. The contact info back then was:

rgvivace@aol.com You want to go to the Banks/Europa Engineering site, which has details of their system based on a custom plenum, including some nice pictures on the "47 Replica photos" page.

"jeff hovis" <jhovis@mindspring.com> I received this via e-mail this morning from one of my Atlanta SCCA colleagues. It's an article from Grass Roots Motorsports and is about building a Europa Twink for autox.

Date: Sunday, February 27, 2000 11:55 AM Subject: recommended online article on engine rebuilds >This article happens to be about a rebuild to a Lotus Europa but it is so well done including pictures that I would recommend it to other folks. It happens to be for a A/Street Prepared autocross car.
>http://www.lotuselan.net/print/magazines/grassroots_motorsports/90_5.html

Jay Mitchell <jemitchell@compuserve.com> I read the article, and it's generally OK. However, the authors did some "creative" rules interpretation. An engine built using the procedures they describe isn't quite a legal ASP engine. Caveat Emptor.

Jay Mitchell <jemitchell@compuserve.com> Friday night I finished reassembly of the car's suspension, removed the wheels/tires from their winter storage containers (garbage bags), installed them, and put the car back down on the floor. During the off season, I had done the following:

From: Jay Mitchell <jemitchell@compuserve.com> On Friday, March 24, I took the Europa to an Evolution Performance Driving School at Mineral Wells. For those of you who aren't familiar with autox, the school (originally called McKamey School) is specifically targeted at improving performance in the autocross
environment. In this regard, it's far more valuable than any racetrack-based school, as certain skills that are necessary for autox aren't taught in the on-track type of school. As I'm mainly interested in updating the list on the car's performance, I'll summarize the driver side by saying that, yes, the school is well worth the price of admission, even for an experienced autocrosser. More on all that in another post. The car: it's now evident from 20 school runs broken out into four groups that the car is ever so slightly loose on cold tires, and that the condition fixes itself entirely within half a run or so. This is nothing new, but it's worth knowing about. Otherwise, you're tempted to adjust your driving and/or the car after the first run, when what you really need to do is continue exactly as before and wait for the car's behavior to stabilize. This is the price of having such a light car. The rear tires build a bit more heat - typically they've been 10-15 degrees F hotter than the fronts when I've measured - so their grip improves more over cold. That also means they'll go off sooner if you heat them over the top, so the car will be loose either on cold or overheated tires. Overheating is unlikely, but it might happen in the 110+ heat we encounter in late July through August. If that's the case, I'll run road race compound tires during that part of the season. It's now apparent that the car can now be driven much more assertively than before through any type of course feature, particularly slaloms and offsets. Transient response is razor-sharp, thanks to the damping increase over my previous setup. Not that it was ever slow. It's also possible that the articulating swaybar end links have helped here. As there is now no bending of the bar, the front suspension is more supple around the static position, in spite of stiffer damping. Reducing the ride height below the car's already-low setting yielded another increment of improvement. As I noted before, the front wheels acquired more negative camber from the lowering - about 2.1 degrees - which I allowed to remain there, as the Hoosier radials are alleged to need this much. The rear wheels are set at about 1.6 degrees negative, which I can easily increase if necessary. So far, camber appears to be about right. I'm now using a bit more of the edges of the tires, although there is still relatively unmolested rubber at the very outside of the tread on the front tires. Overall assessment: the car's chassis development work is nearing completion. Further improvements will be increasingly subtle, and reducing my autox times by significant amounts will, in the future, have to come from engine and driver development. Compared to the previous iteration in its development, I'd say that the car is more than a second quicker on the McKamey course, which I was consistently doing in 34.0xx last Friday. The Hoosier autocross radials now have 31 runs on them, and you can still see the "holographic" portion of the tread, which is less than 1/32" deep on new tires. Looks like I'll be needing some more Formula V, or else I'll run out of stick long before I've used up the rubber. I've got photos of the car developed, and I'll scan them and upload them to my website tomorrow a.m. As soon as they're up, I'll post a URL. I'll say more about the driver part of the equation in a later post.

From: "Phil Ethier" <pethier@isd.net> This is in Texas, I believe. Concrete? I was just thinking that overheating tires on my car in autocross was just about impossible. We only have one concrete site here (2 events a year) and I don't think it is likely to be 110 degrees F air temp here in Minnesota any time soon. It is apparent that you are not getting the most out of your front tires. This also appears to be irrelevant. Since the car is always either loose or neutral, improvements to the rear stick would be required before worrying about the front stick. More engine than driver unless you come up against lame-brain courses. If the Real Roger Johnson is designing the courses down there in Texas, or the other designers are paying attention to him, that won't be a problem. This makes me feel better about myself. I got down to 34.136 on the standard McKamey course on the asphalt at Canterbury Park. Neither Jean Kinser or Brian Priebe were driving my car faster than I. I'm not kidding myself that I have anywhere near their talent for several reasons: I know my car better. They are not there to embarrass the student, but to teach. They had been trained by Jim McKamey to be kind to the customers' cars, particularly in shifting (and new school owner Jean Kinser is continuing that rule). I agree with Jay that this school is 100% worth the substantial entry fee.

From: Jay Mitchell <jemitchell@compuserve.com> If the forces generated were the only factor, concrete would always heat tires more. It's the color. On a hot day - even a moderate 95 or so - pavement temperatures on asphalt can easily get to 120+. Under these conditions, autocross compound tires have been heated close to their
optimum temperature before a runs begins. With concrete, the amount of heat is more a function of the length and intensity of the course. Concrete probably does heat tires more than asphalt under cool conditions, but that's not applicable here in Texas. Another factor is the pavement surface itself. Concrete doesn't change that much when it's heated by the sun. Asphalt oozes oil and gets really greasy. So, even if your tires don't go off when it gets hot, the pavement will. As an example, my car's attitude around the apex cone between segments 2 and 3 is neutral if you do it right, (mild) understeer if you're not patient. That's the targeted behavior. If a car oversteers in a maneuver like that, you won't be able to keep up with it when you encounter two of them in quick succession. kWeber 32/36 DGV on the stock intake manifold. 26mm primary, 27mm secondary. Same carb that's used on Formula Fords. Maximum power with this carb isn't any different than stock. The only engine upgrades I have done so far are a header and the Tilton flywheel. Engine is definitely a factor in Street Prepared. Ask anyone who does well in SP if they could turn similar times with a stock engine. That might be the case for high-torque cars that are traction-limited most of the time. It's definitely not the case in ASP, CSP, DSP, or (now FSP). All those guys are working hard to extract all the engine performance they can. So am I, once I get my income taxes paid for '99. :<( Do a compression check. If you've got the correct pistons, you'll get readings over 200 psi if the engine's in even mediocre condition. Flat top pistons will give readings around 160 psi. I got my best times solo, in the afternoon, in the first three segments. Segment 2 and three best times occurred in the same run. My best segment 4 time was the fifth morning run, with Larry Fine in the passenger seat. My best segment 5 time was on my third "baseline run" in the morning. I was within a few hundredths of my best segment times at various points
throughout the day. Likewise my best run times. I turned a 34.024 in the morning with Larry on board, a 34.098 in the afternoon with Ron Bauer along, and a 34.020 and a 34.042 during my last three runs with no passenger. If I could have put all my best segment times together - which isn't really feasible, as there are some cases where a quick time in one segment will hurt your time in the next one - I could have turned a 33.295. We can all dream, can't we? My best segment 3 and 4 times occurred in the same run, with Ron riding, in the afternoon. Well, you WERE paying attention on the first day (before you were a student), weren't you? ;<) My best segment 5 was pre-instruction - I really didn't need much help going around in a circle - but my best segment 2 was in the afternoon with Ron Bauer aboard. That makes perfect sense - passenger weight helps in a right-hand circle. They were telling us this sort of thing during our last three runs. I think that must be part of the standard instructional procedure. The "slalom," in my Europa, is completely flat out all the way until you have to brake for the first circle. A requisite for the best possible time in that segment would be a Pro Solo-style (dragstrip) launch. Since there was nothing at stake here, I refrained from doing that. My new U-joints are grateful, I'm sure. ;<)

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: Europa Battery Question Date: Sun, 14 Mar 1999 07:29:39 -0800
Jerry Geil wrote: What is a good battery for a Lotus Europa Twin Cam? The previous owner of my car had a battery that was too large for the hold down system. I want to replace it so the battery can be solidly restrained. The workshop manual calls for an "Exide 6VTA 29L" 12-volt battery rated at 39 amp hours. None of the auto parts stores can figure out that rating. Batteries now are all rated in "cold cranking amps". What kind of cold cranking amps do I need for my Twin Cam?

Richard.Longo@usa.xerox.com writes: > Also the battery cable to the starter should be in top shape. And the ground braid from motor back to chassis, as Mark MarKell has reminded me to pay attention to round trip current path from battery through starter. PS: I fussed around with my Europa's starter before LOG-18, thinking the solenoid contacts were marginal. Mark put a meter on the battery and watched it drop to about 2 volts. Bingo! We replaced that guaranteed "Firebrick" battery with el cheapo discount store battery from my 72 Dodge Dart. Cranked like crazy.

rod farnsworth <farnsworthr@nucleus.com> From: "jeff hovis" <jhovis@mindspring.com> Has anyone successfully mounted a battery in the front of a Europa? I heard from someone a while back theirs was actually breaking through the fiberglass.

Karl-Franz Marquez <karlfranz@bol.net> Subject: Re: Jump Start Question (E) Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 13:34:11 –0400 The donor car gets positive terminal to positive cable and negative terminal to negative cable. It is the car disabled car that has the negative cable connected to the block or some other suitable unpainted metal surface away from the battery. Here's all the steps: In cold weather, a good quality booster cable with four to six gauge wire is necessary to provide enough current to the disabled car to start the engine. (The smaller the wire gauge number, i.e., the larger the wire diameter, the better.) Please check the owner's manual for BOTH vehicles BEFORE attempting to jump start and follow the manufacturer's procedure because some cars should not be running during a jump start. However, starting the disabled car with the good car running can prevent having two disabled. DO NOT allow the booster cable clamps touch each other or the POSITIVE clamp to touch the frame or engine block.

"Tim Engel" <tengel@isd.net> Subject: Re: Wheel bearings & Ujs Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 23:01:32 –0600 09 Nov 99, Aaron Hines <whs018@conrad.appstate.edu> wrote: 1) The cross reference was published in 6/78.
> Are the part numbers still valid?

Yes. The size and configuration are industry standard. The exact part numbers vary with from one manufacturer to the next.

>2) The reccommended bearings for the rear are A)Fafnir 206PP for rear outer, B)MRC 206-SZZ for Special inner. Are these correct? Are there newer and better alternatives?

The TC Special uses the same bearing for inner and outer. Yes the bearing numbers you listed are correct. There may be more brands to choose from, but the bearing configuration is an industry standard. The Fafnir 206PP and MRC 206-SZZ are basically interchangeable counterparts. Here are some more.

SJMARCY@aol.com I came across an easy way to get super strong, precise between-the-sealed-bearing spacers. Drill jig bushings. For $ 3.66 each I obtained a few 1 3/16 ID straight simple bushes made of hard, high grade, well finished, shiny steel. They are a hair too long though and will need a quick lathe job to get them down to the 2 inch stock Special length. Earlier cars use 2 1/8 length spacers with the small inner bearings. The stock 30 mm stub axle diameter is quite a bit smaller than the stock tube-spacers. A loose fit is prone to problems since the spacer won't self center itself. A bad combo given known compressive yield issues. So at one section only about half of the stock tube more or less touches the bearing rings due to the loose fit.. Again, not so hot! By using a 1 3/16 drill jig bush with a precise, accurate ID we wind up about 0.006 inches larger than the stub axle OD. It pilots on the 30 mm portions of the stub axle at either end so it is very stable. The lathe work to cut the length down from 2 1/2 to 2 inches might take me about 15 minutes or so on my small lathe. Shorter lengths might be available - my supplier was out of stock. The Europas with the 31 mm ID inner bearings can't use that size. But it's a good idea to machine such a stub axle down to 30 mm OD anyway so that cheaper, readily available bearings can be used.. If you have it all apart, of course. Else use a larger ID drill jig bush.

From: Michael Johannes Ditz <mditz@bndlg.de> From: <phil72@snet.net> Sent: Sunday, February 13, 2000 3:14 PM > Has anyone on the list seen , or have any experience with the door hinges that Banks sells ? I have been trying to align my doors to get ready for paint ,but when I tighten the assemblies in place the rod is impossible to remove. It seems the bobbins that are in the doors are nowhere near parallel to one another. I need to be able to remove the doors without loosening the hinges to paint the jambs.

magriese@us.ibm.com Subject: Fasteners Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 07:25:46 –0500 If you're looking to replace those rusty old fasteners in your car with nice clean stainless steel, a company called McMaster-Carr is worth a look. You can order single quantity bolts from their website http://www.mcmaster.com at their box rate. So, if you want 5 M8x45 bolts and the box price is $29.00 per 100, you pay 5x29/100 = $1.45. Don't work for them, don't own any part of them, but I did place an order for most of the external bolts, washers and nuts for my engine - total was around $120 including shipping.

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: How many holes (U) Date: Sun, 06 Jun 1999 13:30:12 –0700
David B Anderson wrote: How many holes are there in the front luggage area (boot, trunk) of a 1972 Europa Twin Cam? (not the spare wheel/tire area, the luggage area). I believe the emergency brake bolts up there, two holes. The emergency brake pivot has, I think, four holes of a small diameter on the floor, spanning the centerline. The windshield wiper motor, one or two more holes on the passenger side, rear bulkhead. Two holes, about 1 inch diameter on either side with small rubber grommets that plug them, they lead into the pass and driver compartments, and are on the floor, forward (for what purpose, I don't know). Two holes, 1/4 inch, below fan hole for fan bracket.

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> I too have to add the gas struts. The 74 models had the struts stock. Ken Landaiche has a drawing showing the lower supports needed to install the struts, the upper support, however, hasn't been drawn yet. The normal Lotus suppliers still stock the struts (same as on an Eclat/Elite front strut). I haven't calculated the strut size yet, but plan to do so in the near future, just to save a few $$. Once two struts are on the hood/bonnett, no extra stiffing should be required as it will be evenly supported.

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Mine had the single prop in the rear, front too. It had lost the grommet on the lower pivot, and had ripped down the fiberglass about 2 inches. After repairing that mess, and looking at the situation of working on the engine with the tray out, I decided to go with the struts. The later 74s had struts, so I'm not really getting too away from stock, except that the lower attachment points are in a different location than original. I wanted to do something that 1) didn't require I reinstall the brace across the firewall, 2) would minimize any stresses on the hood, and 3) would be universal for all Europas, if possible. I think I've achieved all what I set out to do, the struts have 26lb force each, the lower points bolt to the fenderwells where the 4 bolt flanges do for the seat belt tension bars did (will work if you have them also), the upper and lower points align horizontally when the hood is shut, so no vertical stress on the hood when it is closed. The only modification to the car to install them is 4 rivet holes on each side of the hood, on the vertical edges. The hood opens pretty wide, about as far as when I was using the lotus #1 tool (6 foot wood dowel), not so far as to look unseemly, but enough to have full access. I hope to publish a little article soon. From a practical point, its soooo much better. When closing, light pressure is required so minimal stress on the glass during transition. Cost was about $75 or so.

farberjf@us.ibm.com I brushed regular resin on ...... carefully. It did just what I wanted which was seal the surface and eliminate future problems........ It hardened and I sanded lightly to flatten. I primered and painted as usual.

Mark Hollingsworth <markh@olympus.net> > I’m finding a lot of small hairline cracks or starbursts.. any easy way to seal them?

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Don't go thru the primer, stop there. The starbursts/cracking is called "stress cracks" and is due the brittleness of the gel coat on the fiberglass. R&D enterprises sells what is called "tissue" which
is very thin fiberglass mat. You sand down thru the gel coat and then use this with resin to bring the surface back up. Works great, but is tedious, and the only way to prevent recurrence of the cracking. Don't try just filling and sealing, doesn't work.

From: "Jay Mitchell" <jemitchell@compuserve.com> Given that you contemplate suspending a substantial weight
overhead, you need to be VERY careful in how you lift and secure your car's body.

From: Mark Hollingsworth <markh@olympus.net> Here's what I did: Use a cherry picker (under $200) and climbing rope. Suspend the body front and rear and pick the whole works off. I did it by myself - and reinstalled it by myself also. The cherry picker is great for doing engines/trans too, since you can move things around. I even use it for loading heavy stuff into a truck. I can't remember how much I paid for mine, but I'm sure it was well under $200, and worth every cent. Now they have fold up ones for about the same price, so they don't take up so much room when not in use.

From: "Briggs Pletcher" <Briggs1@ix.netcom.com> Lifting the body is probably best done with 4 guys (people),
certainly not a requirement but a nice insurance policy. The weight isn't that great but you could be in for some disconcerting cracking noises if you try to lift the body off without keeping it level. Having extra hands also allows for someone to run around to find out why it's not coming off as easily as you thought it would. The "body shell" itself is really light, one person could move it around if it weren't so awkward. My neighbor and I danced around my garage, driveway and yard over the years with the body before if finally went back on to the frame. What is different about your car however is that I believe you still have the windshield, windows and doors attached to the shell. These items (glass and motors) along with all of the other interior pieces, gas tanks and radiator add a substantial weight to the overall body. You may want to consider taking the doors off to lighten the load. It's not much but it does lighten the load and you can get better access to grabbing the side sills when you can lean into the body a little bit. As for the hanging thought. Not bad, it would probably work but you may find it to be a nuisance every time you want to work on the body that you have to take it up and down. An alternate offering, one that worked well for me, is to build a rolling dolly that you set the body on. I supported only the floor pan and let the ends hang off of the dolly. If you make it tall enough to clear the tires on the frame you can store the body and frame side by side and only increase the overall width by on half of the frame. Depending how far in you put the wheels on the dolly you may even be able to do better than that. The other nice part about doing this is that the body is always within reach and is held secure while you do all of the little things that you will end up doing to the interior or the body itself. The other benefit is that it was CHEAP, a factor that seems of value to you. I actually used scrap lumber and bought pivoting wheels for about $50.

From: Mark Hollingsworth <markh@olympus.net> New Europa boot lock sets are still available. The usual Vendors (Tingle, Bean, RD, JAE)

>From: dsrgr@aol.com I managed to lose the key to my trunk lock and had another one made after taking the hinge pins out to get it open. I've now discovered that the threads for the bolt that holds the securing clip on are stripped. Anyone know what type of vehicle the lock came from and if they might still be available?

Benjamin Levy (hedge spice) <seven@apocalypse.org> Subject: Engine-less Europa for sale in MA. Date: Mon, 5 Jul 1999 14:17:02 –0400 I heard (second hand) that Rob Quindezi (sp?) has engine-less Europa for sale. That car was used for racing, so it has various modifications. It has Hewland transaxle, flared fenders and an easy-off body. You can reach Rob at Shine Racing Service (SRS) at 508 660-7974. 508 is on the South Shore of Massachusetts, near Boston.

"Peter M. Blackford" <pmbsab@naples.infi.net Subject: "clay" paint cleaner? Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 21:22:22 –0400 I don't know if anyone here is familiar with this product, but it's been getting some good press... this is just one of several notes: Just thought I would mention the use of this clay and my results. I only had the time to do the hood and roof today, but the results are GREAT! Before you could run your hand over the surface after just washing the car. You could feel all the "crap" that had planted itself on the paint. After using the Clay Magic on the surface, it was unbelievable how smooth it became. You could see in the clay all the crap it picked up. I then waxed the surface with carnuba and WOW! What a great shine. Hopefully I'll have the time to finish the rest of the car next weekend. I recommend this highly. My car is a 93 and has never had anything but wax performed on the paint. This is now a must do. It is quite easy to do. It might add an extra 45min to 1 hr, but your car will love you for it. You can get this stuff from Don Mallinson. Check out his web site http://www.dccarcare.com. It is a small investment to help your paint. (probably available elsewhere, as well... not a commercial message).

"Tim Engel" <tengel@isd.net> Subject: Stripping FRP (was Re: Comments?) Using a chemical stripper to take paint off a fiberglass part can be risky. I've gotten away with it, but I've only tried it on small parts I wouldn't cry over if things went south. I wouldn't want to risk it on a car body. If the stripper gets to the glass fiber, it will wick into the matte or weave. Once in there, it's difficult or impossible to get out. Depending upon the type of chemistry, it may actually attack the FRP, or it may just make painting problematic. A "little" pocket of stripper in the fibers will attack any paint that is applied over it and cause it to lift or blister. Some strippers are stronger that others. The strongest ones will actually attack the resin in a FRP part. I used a water based chemical stripper to take some paint off a fiberglass laminated wood structure (fuselage of an RC sailplane), and ended up taking all the glass off with the first application. Milder strippers may not attack the resin and the gelcoat may protect the fiber matte/ cloth from the nastier effects. May. If the gelcoat is intact and crack free. But any chip that exposes the matte, any stress crack that allows the gel to wick into the fiber, any stress crack repair in progress that exposes fibers... is potentially a problem. The gentleman who purchased my late '71 Europa S2 decided it need to be stripped and resprayed (and it did). He took it to a specialty body shop known for the beautiful work they did on Porsches, BMW's and Mercedes... but no fiberglass cars. They chemically stripped it. There was a small starburst stress crack in the center of the roof. After stripping the car, they repaired the starburst and repainted the car. About a month later the paint blistered where the star had been. They sanded it down and repainted. It blistered. Sanded and painted. It blistered. I saw the car periodically for several years afterwards and it always had the blister. The roof was repainted several times and the blister always returned. I don't know what stripper they used... sorry. But I know I won't use a chemical stripper on a fiberglass car. Sand it or take it in to be media blasted. If you blast it, be aware that blasting has a whole can of worms all it's own. Aggressive, hard media or high pressure can do severe damage to a fiberglass body... lightweight Lotus bodies in particular. Go to someone experienced in blast-stripping fiberglass, have a serious heart-to-heart about the delicate nature of Lotus bodywork, use only "soft" media like plastic, ground walnut shells or soda and keep the pressure low. Go slow. Strip the gray primer and sand from there.

21 Mar 99, Mark MarKell <Type46@micro-engineering.com> wrote: I seem to remember a note from someone about strippers used on glass being not a good idea. Is that so? Something > about absorption or damage at the gel-coat level?

Do not use paint strippers. It will be absorbed into the 'glass, and later it will bleed out and ruin the paint job. The only good way is to sand it down. Good 'ol manual labor... If you are interested in a *good* body shop that specializes in Lotus, Evans Leinbach in Salisbury North Carolina, does *excellent* work. He did my car, and several other have seen it, and taken their car to him also. For what it's worth, my Elan won Best of Show at the LOG 18, mostly due to Evan's paint job (and body work). Several others at the LOG also decided to take their car to him after seeing mine... The pictures aren't very high resolution, but check out my web site <http://www.erols.com/elans4/> Tim Mullen, Chantilly, VA 72 Elan Sprint

Stripping -- how to have more fun. By Joel Farber

I found that I had to push quite vigorously on the tools to get the paint off, and was surprised that the amount of force used didn't hurt the glass at all. The stripper didn't harm metal or ordinary glass, but be careful near rubber or synthetics. Again, PROTECT YOUR EYES.

JerTigger@aol.com Subject: Fwd: Stripping Paint - Europa Special Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 17:58:24 EST
I am currently removing all the paint from my 72 Europa TC. The best product I could find for the price is BIX all finish paint remover. It costs about $10 per gallon at Home Depot. I slop it on thick, reapply several times to keep it wet over the course of 1 1/2 hours then use a plastic putty knife and it comes off like a gob of slime. This car has been repainted twice, very thick coats and most areas I get it down to the first coat of primer if not to the gel coat.

I have read the GGLC article and do not entirely agree with it. I don't understand "sanding leads to waves - unavoidably", unless it is understood that sanding off all the primers (block sanded at the factory) and fillers (applied and sanded in repairs later) reveal all the imperfections in the moulding. Some of these flaws were there from manufacture, some appear over time with aging and expansion/contraction of the resin in the structure. Others from damage. What I'm getting at is that 80% of a repair/repaint is sanding fillers and primers to a perfect, flaw-free shape. And for that to remain fairly stable over the years, you should remove all the old layers of paint, primer etc. Some say to leave at least the factory primer under the original color to save some of this effort, but I have not often found this to be practical. The very best info on stripping, repairing and painting Lotus bodies is Miles Wilkins' two books in the Osprey Restoration series - out of print. Apparently they are still available from www.Lotus-Books.com in Germany. I highly recommend you study these. –Randall

Mark Hollingsworth <markh@olympus.net> Subject: Re: Fwd: Stripping Paint - Europa Special Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 08:59:33 –0800 I personally wouldn't use any paint stripper. I know people that have, but there is too good of a chance of getting it into the gel coat. Even if it doesn't damage it, there is a good posibility of later problems with paint contamination. Sanding. I hate to say it, but thats really the best way. Try not to go through the original primer (if it is still there). If the paint it original, I'd sand with 180grit, nothing heavier. That can take a long time, but you have solves the problem of sand scratches showing through the final paint. Sanding it wet will make the paper work much better and last longer.

farberjf@us.ibm.com I didnt have any residual solvent problems at all. But after stripping I had many different surfaces (repairs / different types of glass.....). I painted on the thinnest possible coat of glass epoxy resin ---then sanded. It gave me one uniform surface to prime. Might have been overkill but I got good results. Keep in mind that Miles Wilkens --- THE Lotus factory reccomended restoration guy strips..... If you look down a bit in the www.gglotus.org site in the forsale Section I have a picture of my +2 painted.

JerTigger@aol.com My Europa had three finish coats plus several coats of primer in between, had alligator cracks,etc. all the way down. I heard many horror stories about paint strippers after I started. Used BIX stripper from Home Depot let it stay on for about 1 1/2 hours with rewetting in between. I did not have any problems with softening the fiberglass, except I left the small cup I used to hold the remover on the car upside down over night, softened the gelcoat and fiber glass base, no problem only one more patch out of many. It has been about three months since I did that so the chemical should be gassed out by now plus much wet sanding. I had many other things to do on the car and sit will be about another month before it sees primer.

"Warren Hartenstine" <whartenstine@earthlink.net> I stripped, using NAPA 6802, a water-soluble, lower strength stripper. When I applied a sufficient amount, the color coat blistered within 10 minutes and the primer stayed in tact. I washed the car twice after each day's work - about two days.

"Phil Ethier" <pethier@isd.net> I am continuing with my rough removal of paint with the knotted wire wheel. I have been slow to answer requests for a description of this tool, so here we go: The center of the thing is a metal disk about 3 inches in diameter with an integral mandrel threaded to fit an angle grinder. Radiating from the periphery of this disk are maybe a dozen twisted-wire bundles, each of which resembles a section of stout steel cable. The material is twisted in a direction so that as the disc spins, the wire at the contact point with the work is trying to "unwrap". Each wire point in turn imparts quite an impact to the edge of a layer of paint, chipping it off. This is especially effective with very hard paints (just the kind that ought not be on a Europa in the first place, but anyone dumb enough to paint a Europa black when he lives in Hawaii can't be expected to figure that out) which are difficult to sand off. It is true that one can take one layer of paint at a time if sufficient care is used. In one area of the left front fender, I found that the archeological layers consisted of

"Briggs Pletcher" <Briggs1@ix.netcom.com> I believe the gasket on the rear deck lid does not actually act as a seal but rather more of an aesthetic cover for the rough edge of the body behind the window. My S2 had just a "U" channel flexible trim slipped over the edge where the body was trimmed after molding. As for the gap to leave : I just went through he same exercise with my S2. What I found was that there is enough play in the deck holes and in the holes that go through the body behind the window to allow you to align for perfect fit. My biggest concern with hole placement was that the lid did not rub on the sides and that at the back where it "flips" up (the 1970's wing) that it matched up with the peaks in the body. Again the hole size that was originally in the body, maybe 3/8" left enough play around studs to adjust to taste.

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> On my special, there was a seal, like a door seal, which slips over the body lip to seal the front of the hood. I haven't found a replacement yet (haven't been looking very hard though). To fit the lid, I would put it in place, and find where it looks best and mark the hinge location, then drill from that. Also, note that the factory had extra large holes to allow adjustment during assembly, but be careful as too wide will negate all you've accomplished so far (as if you didn't already know...). Make sure you use large fender washers underneath, and the hinges had a gasket between them and the body/hood. It took me awhile to get mine adjusted, and I too had to glass over the stress cracks in that area, though the holes were still visible underneath.

Scott Mitchell <scott@fortner.com> I'd like to pass this one along. I got this from Mark Michalski (who I don't think is on list) at LOG. Mark had drilled a hole in the drain trough for the rear trunk. Then a grommet was installed and this hole was used for the rear trunk prop rod when the trunk basket wasn't in the car. I haven't had to take the trunk off the car since I made this mod. I've found it immensely useful.

"Phil Ethier" <pethier@isd.net> (by way of Phil Ethier <phil.ethier@ci.stpaul.mn.us>) Subject: Europa Body Removal Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 08:27:50 –0800 From: VACUUMTUBE@aol.com <VACUUMTUBE@aol.com> >Does anyone happen to have a list of steps to follow to remove said body from a 74 TC Special? That is, what must first be released before removing the body. This is from an exchange with Cory Carpenter, in which I told him about my 1970 Europa S2 chassis' out-of-body experience

\\\\\\\\body removal

(When I put the body back on, I replaced all the water-trapping felt with closed-cell foam.) pethier@isd.net

"Ed & Ruth Young" <lotusracer@home.com> Subject: Europa body removal Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 08:29:04 –0600 Many years ago, I removed the body from my Twin Cam Europa. Some helpful tips follow. Of course, you will want to remove all attaching bolts, gearshift knob, the seats(to lighten the body even more) and the oil pressure line(that's the one I almost forgot). I then started by jacking the body slowly off the frame, a little here, a little there to make sure that I indeed had undone all the important things. After raising it quite a bit, I took some long 4X4's and slid them through the wheel arch openings, one at the front 'T' section and one at the rear. They were long enough for my helpers to grab onto and to lift the body with. No wheel arch grabbing please! We lifted it up, clearing the shifter and walked it out of the garage. Later, we carried it back in, and set it down on the other half of the garage. When I put the body back on, I did it all by myself. I took 2 'come alongs', attaching one to the center of the 4X4 in the rear, which I had bolted to the body to prevent slipping, and the other one I attached to 2 eyebolts that I had attached to the 4X4 in the front through the shock bolt access holes. Winched the body up, rolled the chassis back under it, and slowly lowered it back on. A couple of clicks in front, a couple of clicks in the rear, watching and adjusting position of the chassis as I went. Once the body was resting on the 4X4's that were resting on the chassis, I took the jacks and raised the body back up enough to unbolt the 4X4's and slide them out. Then, all I needed to do was to lower it back off of the jacks. As light as the Europa body is, this was extremely easy on the back.

From: Mark Hollingsworth <markh@olympus.net>

12 mounting bolts (I think I counted them all)
2 seat belt bolts
Brake rod
Pedals
front body closing plate
steering column pulled back
fusebox
heater hoses (inside car)
shifter inside car
parking brake cable
master cylinder

Those are the things I can think of off the top of my head. Most of the stuff you have already removed doesn't need to be taken off to remove the body.

Steve Shipley <shiples@home.com> Subject: Re: Rubber treatment Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 18:06:37 -0700
I use Meguiar's #40 for appearance. With 1 year's experience I can't vouch for the long term performance claims.

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Warren Hartenstine wrote: It appears to me from the manual and from my memory of removing them that you would install the chrome strip and clips, and put the two sided tape on the car. It appears to me from the manual and from my memory of removing them that you would install the chrome strip and clips, and put the two sided tape on the car just below the chrome clips. Then push the sill straight up, nesting the lead edge under the chrome strip, against the two sided tape, and into the bottom clip at the same time. I do know that my sills were pretty tightly nested up under that chrome strip. Manual says, "To remove the trim sills, drill out pop rivet at both front and rear top edges, ease sills away from body at their upper edges, and remove by pushing down away from the clip. Replace by reversing these instructions."

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Landaiche Ken (Nokia/PL) wrote: I don't. But I do have one that was painted with some gawdoffal gold metal flake paint. It doesn't match the one on the other side of the car. Does anyone know what the official paint is for that sill? And while we're at it, does anyone know what double sided tape to use for installing it?

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Landaiche Ken (Nokia/PL) wrote: This is getting interesting. What gun are you using for the paint work? And do you have a booth set up, or renting space as needed? And what do you mean about tiger stripes? As I recall, the sparkly paint is gold, right? I find it hard to believe that all Europa Special color scemes would use the same sill color, except that it would be cheaper :)

"Brian Martley" <Brian.Martley@tesco.net> When the first TC was launched in the UK, Lotus quoted some figures for drag at 100mph for the new body shape/spoiler - saying the spoiler was to reduce the effects of removing the rear fins on straight line stability. Quoted reduced lift from 66lb to 34lb with a drag coeff of 0.35. Also quoted lower roll centres at 3.25" and spring rates of 68/76 in half-laden state. I assume the "before" figure was for UK spec, the R&T test quotes 95lbs lift for the US S2.

JERTIGGER2@cs.com It looks like if the front is lowered the spoiler may be removed without any effect on the car. I have already installed short springs with adjustable perches at the lowest setting. One less part to prep, prime, sand and put back on.

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Subject: E(U)ropa Update - Brake saga continues Sat, 20 Mar 1999 21:14:04 –0800 Just an update as things progress. The glass guy came to the house again, third time! The front winshield was installed on the second trip, glued in with urethane instead of the old butyl type mastic. He says its the new legal glue and 9 times stronger than the butyl. The chrome plastic trim was really a mess, he stuck it on the window after warming it and brought the window up "encapsulated", but it was still wavey and malformed. He cleaned the grove in the car, put a foam "dam" in (a 1/4 inch square foam strip which keeps the glue from oozing all over), and put a black primer in and then put a 1/4 x 3/4 inch bead of glue in the groove. Then he put the windshield with trim attached in his truck and turned up the heater. It sure was warm when he removed it and the trim really became pliable. We then just stuck in on. It looks pretty good now - not perfect but presentable. The rear window was a different matter though, on the first trip he made a pattern, on the second trip we tried to install it, but he cut it too small. So today he returned with a new window and worked from 9:30 AM straight to 3
PM putting that thing in. Finally, he got the whole thing in, even with all the right tools, that window is a bear!! So I'm $250 poorer but much happier .:-)

"Al Hostettler" <honor@erinet.com> Subject: Europa rear window Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 20:23:59 –0500 I feel as if great progress was made tonight. I started at 6:05 pm to install my rear window. At 7:27 pm I was cleaning things up. While it is not the easiest job and some help would probably be helpful, I did it myself and really did not think it was that bad. I was really afraid this would be a major job, so I had reserved this Saturday to do this. Now what will I do with Saturday? I have to admit it is not a perfect job. Even though I was stretching the molding it came up about 1/8 inch short. Well after looking at it a bit I decided it was OK. Then I installed the plastic retaining trim. I stretched this too but came up about 1/2 inch short. Well this will just have to do, besides maybe that is how it was originally. I have some black silicone that will seal it up water tight and it will be fine. Now if only the heater core is as easy.

thomas.b.smith1@jsc.nasa.gov writes: > What is the earlier windshield surround? Black rubber channel, narrow silver plastic locking strip. If the strip ages, you just paint it black for a nice look. Or, you black it out from day one to keep it simple. The visual effect of the silver strip in the black rubber is similar to that of any 1991-1998 Lincoln Town Car, around all side windows and rear screen. Since you are in Texas, there should be plenty of those Lincolns around -- nice "land yacht" or "prarie schooner" huh? Mine was my "beltway battlecruiser" in the D.C. area! ken ritchie atlanta

Jay Mitchell <jemitchell@compuserve.com> Jason Rowan wrote: <snip> Basically, after a short drive the brakes won't release all the way, the brake lights stay on, and all the brakes get nice and hot.

Mark Hollingsworth <markh@olympus.net> It sounds to me as if you have a bad flex brake hose. I've had those act like one way valves before, they pump up, but will not release. Replace your hoses- probably due anyway.

"Mark MarKell" <Type46@micro-engineering.com> It sounds like the MC/pedal is not retracting all the way or is not adjusted to come all the way back when released. You said you replaced the MC and the adjustment would be suspect. Check and adjust the pedal free play at the MC.

"SMITH, THOMAS B. (JSC-DX)" <thomas.b.smith1@jsc.nasa.gov> Since all four brakes are binding and the brake light stays on, I would suspect the master cylinder, or the transfer mechanism on the front frame. Also, the pedal itself could be binding. Does the pedal return completely? Try pulling up on it and have someone see if the lights go out. Try to operate the pedal by hand to check for binding, free return etc. Also check the booster, if equipped. I've had one go bad on my Seven which caused the exact same thing.

"Ed & Ruth Young" <lotusracer@home.com> Subject: (U)Europa booster/brake question Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1999 14:15:51 –0600 I am forwarding this question for a friend who is the original owner of a 1974 Europa Twin Cam. His only e-mail is through work, and he is unable to subscribe to the list there. So, therefore I am posting this question for him :

>Also, one extra favor....I would appreciate if someone could tell me what the "theory of operation" is for these boosters, which are the Girling Powerstop Mk2B remote servos. If nothing else, I could try to figure out the problem if only I knew how the crazy things worked! My e-mail address is sarro_carl@videojet.com, phone number at work is (630)860-7394 x1853, or (847)464-5213 at home.

I am about to remove the last brake booster from my '74 Special and thought I might share what I have learned so far. According to DBE the TC MC is .875. When removing the boosters the logical replacement would be the MC from an S2 Europa, except it was discontinued by Girling years ago. DBE specs it as .700. What I intend to try is to have the current MC sleeved in brass to .700, then have the pistons turned to match and use an S2 rebuild kit. Jerry Rude has drawings with the S2 internal dimensions for getting the pistons setup. I plan on getting the piston work done first, and then sending the whole lot to Whitepost or Apple and having them do the complete rebuild. I'll keep the list updated as this project progresses. Tom Rollins 1974 Lotus Europa Special 4158R tom@ntcs-inc.com

Robert "Fast Bob" Scheib <Robert.Scheib@gte.net> Your attempts to bleed out your Europa's brake system sounds very familiar - my car had sat for about 9 years when I bought it, and the brakes weren't working "very well" when I drove it home!! Oh my, now thats a story!! After many attempts at flushing and bleeding - the flushed out fluid looked the same- nasty, and there just did'nt seem to be much pedal effort, although the m.cyl. held pressure when it's line fittings were plugged. I finally realized that the boosters were leaking internally, and were filling up with fluid! You may be experiencing the same thing. During my cars restoration process I've replumbed the brakes to be "non-boosted", installed a S2 mastercylinder and Aeroquip flex lines. I now have a very firm pedal with just the right effort and "feel". If you want to keep your boosters [a real undertaking to rebuild!!] and existing mastercylinder, I would recommend sending the m.cyl. to "Whitepost Restorations" to be rebored and brass sleeved - I've had super good results from this operation. A "hone" and new seals are a waste of time.

Ken Landaiche <ken.landaiche@dlcc.com> Subject: RE: Europa Pedal Drawing! Wed, 17 Mar 1999 09:41:27 –0800 From: whs018@conrad.appstate.edu [mailto:whs018@conrad.appstate.edu Am I asking for trouble using boosterless brakes on a Europa? Since the Europa uses a single cylinder setup, wouldn't it be too much trouble to convert the car to use double cylinders?

Jerry Rude gdrude@pacbell.net Subject: Re: (U)Europa booster/brake question Wed, 17 Mar 1999 21:13:30 –0800 Join Lotus Ltd for $20 and get the Europa book for $15, it has an article on using the Europa without the brake boosters. It involves utilizing lower quality brake pads/shoes to achieve a high enough coefficient of friction. Or convert to a S2 master cylinder, or have yours sleeved down to the S2 size and have the pistons machined down to match. The S2 and the TC cylinders are the same design, only difference is the piston/bore diameters.

Now on the GGLC site - 3 new tech articles... An excellent one from Jerry Rude detailing the conversion of TC Europa brakes to non-boosted system using S2 dual master cylinder. http://www.gglotus.org

richard.clifton@bigfoot.com I have restored three Lotus cars and each time used a copper nickle alloy brake pipe called Kunifer 10 (I think it is spelt that way). It has been excellent in service and on the Elan I restored 16 years ago the pipes show no sign of deterioration in any way. I get all my brake parts supplied by Classicar Automotive in Cheshire (+44 (0) 625 860910) and have always had good service from them. However...After reading the previous posts I rang them to ask if they still supplied Kunifer 10 and they say they now only supply copper pipes! They say that in the restoration business copper is now used 100 times more frequently than the Kunifer. They admit it is softer (thereby easier to work with) and that it is a perfectly good material for the job. Maybe one shouldn't use it for out & out race cars but in general use it would seem OK. Richard A Clifton, Wakefield, 1967 Elan S3 S/E DHC 1967 +2 1973 Europa TC 1990 Elan SE (150,000 miles) 1988 Sealine 305 Statesman

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Jason, sounds somewhat like the problems I was having on bleeding my brakes. I too was using the ezibleed system. I found that for some reason the ezibleed would not push the bubble past the 3 way junction where the brake light switch is, on top of the left side of the frame, just behind the frame "Y". What I did was remove the bolt securing the junction, and put a rag under it. Then using the ezibleed, crack one of the line fittings. Then return to the rear wheels and bleed both of them. That firmed my pedal up substantually.

The stock calipers are Spitfire and are still easy and cheap to obtain, so I don't worry much about them. Phil Ethier Saint Paul Minnesota USA Lotus Europa, VW Quantum Syncro, Chev Suburban LOON, TCVWC, MAC pethier@isd.net http://www.visi.com/mac/

Randall Fehr <rsfehr@seanet.com> Subject: RE: Euro-spec Europa (U) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 1999 07:08:47 -0800
"Peter M. Blackford" <pmbsab@naples.infi.net> Anyone on the List know of any replacement calipers in aluminum or SS? At worst, yours may need to be resleeved (White Post Restorations has been hignly recommended by others...)

Mark Hollingsworth <markh@olympus.net> Aaron: > I'm considering converting my dual-line non-servo Europa to earlier single-line so that I can get a new MC with a smaller bore (0.62").

Like others probably will tell you, I recommend staying with a dual circuit system. It is worth having the safety of brakes if one part fail. I like SAABs system they have used since the 60's- diagonal circuits.

Keith Gustafson <gusmach@shore.net> Subject: Re headlights & brake fluid Date: Tue, 8 Jun 1999 13:43:19 –0400 This same conversation keeps coming up about silicone brake fluid. I have been running silicone in my +2 for 14 years, covering about 65k miles in that time, with NO problems. It bleeds fine, works fine etc. etc. I have no idea where this info comes from.

Robert Tufts <rbt@frontiernet.net> Subject: Re: Re headlights & brake fluid Date: Tue, 8 Jun 1999 16:18:59 –0400 You have to be very careful installing the stuff. Because of the viscosity it traps micro air bubbles. You wouldn't want to take a can that got shaken real good and try to bleed it and when overheated at the track all these micro air bubbles expand. It is also not compatable with all seals (check on indivual basis). also it's not recommended on some ABS systems because of different viscosity. On a daily driver (brakes not heated like the track) it could be just fine, but it could be expensive and a lot more problems than it's worth for a car used occaisionally at the track (bleeding often anyway). To each their own but I'll choose the cheaper DOT 3 FORD Heavy Duty and bleed as required for the track. (bleeding often removes moisture buildup).

Robert Tufts <rbt@frontiernet.net> Subject: Re: ABS brake fluid Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 14:22:42 –0400

Here's one article: http://www.houston-bmwcca.com/articles/avoiding_brake_problems.html. Another:
http://www.c-edge.com/shotimes/SHO4brakes.html. And another: http://www.cardone.com/news/may5.htm.

From: Mark Hollingsworth <markh@olympus.net> I would stick with Castrol brake fluid. It works very well, is pretty cheap and will not cause problems with any seals. I think it is a good idea to flush your brakes once a year anyway – silicone or no.

From: Jay Mitchell <jemitchell@compuserve.com> It is a good idea not to use silicone brake fluid nonetheless. The standard seals ARE natural rubber. Currently available aftermarket replacements probably are, too. Use Castrol LMA. It won't hurt your seals, it absorbs very little moisture, and its dry boiling point is high enough for anything short of repeated banzai racetrack runs.

From: SJMARCY@aol.com In a message dated 6/16/99 7:55:08 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Briggs1@ix.netcom.com writes: Wondering if you would be good enough to share your knowledge on changing the rear brakes to discs. I have been thinking about it for a while and curious if you've decided on which ones to use. I know Banks sells a conversion kit but I would expect that there is a more economical way to go.

"Jay Mitchell" <jemitchell@compuserve.com> All the comments re overhaul of Europa MCs, calipers, etc., have
reminded me of some serious caveats. These apply to brake hydraulics in general, and there's nothing about Lotus brakes that makes them immune. Here goes:

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Would you like a copy of the lucas assembly drawing that comes with the rebuild kit? or do you have that? Are you are referring to the "tip valve" it inserts from the outside of the cylinder, with the cone end down, and is held in by the allen set screw "which is hollow". You have to put both pistons in first however as the tip valve holds the pistons in until you get the rod and plate in with the clip. Kind of tricky beings the pistons are spring loaded. So you have to devise a way to hold the pistons in far enough until you put in the "tip valve" and tighten the allen set screw. Then carefully release the pistons and then put on the rod and holding plate. Hope this helps, all going from memory though. If you need any one part, I have a few spares from the kits I've used. make sure you coat things with the red grease and bench bleed the cylinder before installing into the car.

Jay Mitchell <jemitchell@compuserve.com> Björn-Anders Haverstad wrote: For the master brake cylinder; do I have to split the clevis from the piston locknut?

Mark Hollingsworth <markh@olympus.net> For the master cylinder, you either remove the whole linkage stuff- or remove the circlip holding the pushrod into the master cylinder and take it out. You need to remove the whole works to pull the body anyway, and it would be a good idea to take the linkage all apart and lube it too. Remove the pin from the clevis on the brake pedal, all four bolts on the linkage- I believe the 'closing plate' - and it should all come out. Make sure not to put pressure on the nose when the closing plate it off.

Aaron Hines <whs018@conrad.appstate.edu> > On Sun, 30 Jan 2000 LotusDriver@att.net wrote: Is the removal of the master cylinder from a 1974 Europa T/C a body-off task? It appears the steering rack must be removed or at least displaced a bit to access the upper bolt for the master cylinter. However, removing the bolts appears to require access inside the front chassis bulkhead. Is there an easier way than removing the body to accomplish removal of the master cylinder?

From: Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Have you removed the closing plate (six 1/4 inch bolts)?? It is a pretty easy operation if you remove that and the left front tire. After the two nuts are removed, you might have the large upper nut, which requires a ground down box end wrench IIRC, you disconnect the clevis at the brake pedal, and unscrew it from the shaft, then everything comes out the front after you undo the two brake pipes that is. Careful when trying to remove the reservoir if you are rebuilding it, it is no longer available and is very hard to remove, don't if you can avoid it.

From: "Phil Ethier" <pethier@isd.net> I do not know about Twinks, but the Lotus 65 Series 2 has a dual-circuit
master cylinder. The base therefor is held to the frame with four bolts. Of course, in the S2 you can work from above. In any case, the bolts can be removed with a socket on a long extension. Yes, removing the bottom closing plate is good. Disconnect the brake rod from the brake pedal. Remove the four bolts which hold the master-cylinder base to the frame. Remove the entire assembly forward, withdrawing the brake rod from the clearance hole. On the S2, the four bolts go not into welded nuts, but into a "tapping plate". This is a thick steel plate with two large clearance holes and four holes tapped to accept the master-cylinder-base bolts. The frame is sandwiched between the master-cylinder base and the tapping plate. When you go to reassemble, put the plat in and insert all four bolts. Then drill a small hole through the frame and through the center of the tapping plate, between the clearance holes. Fasten the tapping plate to the frame with a pop-rivet in the newly-drilled hole. Then remove all four bolts, feed the brake rod thought to the foot-box, and fasten the master-cylinder base with
the four bolts. The master-cylinder base hides the pop-rivet. I expect the Twink is prett much the same except that you can't work from above.

"TOM BERKELEY" <TBCEI@AOL.COM> John Abram asked for details on my tandem brake cylinder and pedal
assembly. I sent John some details - is anyone else interested? If so, let me know. Tom Berkeley Type 74 - 4605R

"Bloom, Mike" <MBloom@roseville.ca.us> Subject: Europa MC Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 09:56:33 –0800 I just rebuilt the brakes on my 73 TC last month. The MC was badly pitted and needed to be bored and sleeved. I read the excellent article on changing the MC bore by Gerald Rude on the Golden Gate Club site and used it as a guide although, since my boosters work fine, I didn't have the bore reduced. I called the brake shop in San Jose that Gerald mentioned in the article and was told that they do not do the actual boring and sleeving themselves but send it out to Sierra Specialty Automotive in Quincy, CA. I called Sierra Specialty and spoke with Joe the owner. For $95 including return postage he bored and sleeved the MC. One big caution. Be very careful with the reservoir. The retaining clip on the rear is almost impossible to remove without destroying the reservoir nipple that fits into the seal. The reservoir is almost impossible to replace. The article by Gerald Rude describes a process to remove the reservoir by drilling and grinding the ring. I had to drill three holes into mine as the ring had rusted itself solid to the MC. If you gently turn the reservoir after removing the screws holding the front of it you will be able to remove the allen head screw which retains the valve assembly and disassemble the MC. The piston can be removed by gently tapping the MC on a piece of wood. If the MC is pitted and needs boring/sleeving the shop you use should be able to remove the reservoir without damage. Joe at Sierra has a tool that he uses to reach in and open the retaining clip. I wish I knew that before I drilled mine. The full particulars on Sierra:

"Tim Engel" <tengel@isd.net> Subject: Re: MC removal tips? Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 21:58:28 –0600 It's not difficult, just ackward.

Peter Blackford <pmbsab@naples.infi.net> ken.landaiche@nokia.com wrote: Last night I finished one of my Europa's front calipers. I have now rebuilt both at least twice over the last few years. So what is the procedure for reassembly?

I highly recommend that your "procedure for reassembly" include new SS pistons. Only did this procedure once, over 8 years ago... and counting. I got my pistons from friend & fellow lister Keith Gustafson (mailto:gusmach@shore.net ) who I regard as a machinist extrordinaire - his as-machined pistons have a better finish than plating! He may make 'em commercially now & sell through http://www.rdent.com and/or others, though. Get his, from whatever source, if you can. At the time, they cost very little more than the much-shorter-lived chrome plated iron ones.

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> The PDWV's only function is to warn you of a circuit's low pressure. It is simply a small piston with a groove where a micro switch ball bearing sits so if the piston moves so far, it pushes up on the micro switch making the circuit. I plumbed mine without this switch and without the boosters such that there is only one line going rearward, but I still have the two circuit system. I figure I can tell when I loose half the braking capability of the car!! Another alternative can be to move the switch forward, next to the master cylinder, that way minimum plumbing and still an indicator. The only reason the switch was in the rear was the boosters were back there too.

>phil72@snet.net wrote: Now that I know that the chassis fits the body shell I'm ready to run the brake lines. But before I start I was wondering what purpose the PDWV serves other than to turn on the dash light when one circut has lower pressure than the other. Does this valve actually seal the lower pressure circut due to caliper/cylinder failure? ..providing the failure is downstream of the valve.

From: "Betsy" <betsy@malpas12.freeserve.co.uk> There has been some discussion over a rear disc conversion for the Europa. I've been chatting to one of the specialists who uses Ford Sierra hubs & the smaller (but just bolt on) Ford Escort discs. The Sierra hubs are rears and were fitted to anything above a 20i and can be commonly found in breakers. (this says something about Ford product). This combination fixes the wheel offset and rim size problems.

paul a zielinski <paulzielinski@juno.com> Subject: S2 Europa Cross Drilled Brake Rotors Date: Sat, 10 Apr 1999 21:23:54 –0400 Just got a pair of cross-drilled brake rotors from Moss Motors. In conjunction with the May 1 New Jersey Britfest 99, I got the pair from Moss at 15% discount with free Priority mail shipping! All in all, a decent deal I think. And prices for all Moss stuff will go up soon. These are Spitfire discs of course, and are identical to Lotus-Lucas discs. These discs have a beautiful golden, corrosion free surface. And they weigh 4.5 lb each. The Lotus-Lucas disc weighs 5.0 lb each.

paul a zielinski <paulzielinski@juno.com> I forgot to add. With the Britfest 99 discount (intended for those attending Britfest 99 in New Jersey), I paid for $162 US for the pair. This included New Jersey sales tax and free shipping. Normally, Moss sells these for about $90 each. I've seen then offered by other Triumph specialists in the $80s. But wait! The manufacturer/supllier is: Autospecialty of Carson, Ca. Part #s EBR-065L, EBR-065R. Maybe a better price can be found.

http://www.mossmotors.com/britishaccessories/mechanicalsystems/brakes/crossdrilledrotor.html. Could you comment on the quality of the cross drilled holes. Were they nicely chamfered or stress relieved? It would be a shame if they were to develop cracks! Cheers, Ross

"Bob Weber" <gcthree@optonline.net> Regarding rear discs: Banks in the UK offers a complete rear disc set-up for the ungodly sum of $850. Not sure of the source of the rotors or calipers. You can find it at: www.banks-europa.co.uk/

Peter Blackford <pmbsab@naples.infi.net> The hotter version of the Ford Sierra is what came to the states as the Merkur XR4Ti - remember that? nice car... hope this helps

>From: "jeff hovis" <jhovis@mindspring.com> I still can't find the info that I printed. However, Ford Sierra comes to mind. I don't know what that is or if it is even a Ford product. It could be a Euro name for a non domestic Ford. There is probably a way to cross-reference that and find out for sure.

> > -----Original Message-----
> >From: Brian Martley <brian.martley@tesco.net> Date: Saturday, February 26, 2000 1:25 AM Subject: Re: [lotuseuropa] Re: Rear Brake conversion. In a recent post you mentioned that the Banks conversion uses Ford parts. Do you happen to know which model and if it's a complete "kit."

"David H Putscher" <David.H.Putscher@usa.dupont.com> The Merkur Scorpio has the rear disc brakes the XR4Ti has drums. The Scorpio has 5 lug hubs and the European Sierra versions had 4 lug. Spyder bases their rear disc conversion on the Sierra/Scorpio and I assume the Banks setup is similar.

pboedker@image.dk> In Europe from 86 to somewhere mid 90'es, Ford Germany sold a Scorpio, which was the European top model (a bit like Sierra, only bigger). The car had discs all way round, and was named Granada in UK, Scorpio elsewhere.

"John Abram" <john.abram@jci.com> I looked at the photos Banks has posted for their rear brake conversion. It appears that the calipers used are a single piston design with providions for a mechanical parking brake. If this is true the caliper may be similar to the ones fitted to the Ford Contour SE and SVT models sold in the US. The bracket for fitting the calipers appears pretty straight fowarded. It looks like a steel plate (quarter inch?) designed to bolt on to the outside of the hub carrier. The disks used are four bolt redrilled to redue the bolt circle. I would assume Banks used something that came off a car fitted with 13" wheels. I wonder if a Triumph Spitfire front disk would work on the back. I don't have a spare front disc at the moment but the next time I work on the brakes I'm going to take one of the front discs and try it on the back. If it fits Moss Motors has new drilled disks available for about $90 with the right bolt circle.

"Phil Ethier" <pethier@isd.net> From: "John Abram" <john.abram@jci.com> The disks used are four bolt redrilled to redue the bolt circle. I would assume Banks used something that came off a car fitted with 13" wheels. I wonder if a Triumph Spitfire front disk would work on the back.

I believe this has been done many times and there are kits to do it.

davea@quasar.engr.sgi.com (David B Anderson) europa, brake pipe Wed, 17 Mar 1999 11:01:37 -0800 (PST)
>Let me clear up what I ment by copper-nickle brake tubing. I originally saw it in a Moss Motors (nice MG/Triumph/Healy parts) catalog. It may have been imported from Europe, but it isn't copper, its an alloy. Its supposed to be easier to bend and won't rust. That's all I know. Moss (www.mossmotors.com) sells this material as a 'set' for a particular car. Not as plain lengths of pipe. (Could not find on line, called 1-800-235-6954, toll free in USA, to talk to a human being.)

whs018@conrad.appstate.edu Subject: Re: Cu-Ni (Monel) brake tube, Bean Thu, 18 Mar 1999 20:26:56 -0500 (EST) The copper-nicle tubing that Moss caries is "equivalent to C70600 (90% copper, 10% nickle)." The product they sell is manufactured in the UK and made to fit cetain cars (none of which are Lotus). They claim that this type of brake tubing is "used by Volvo, Rolls Royce, Lotus (!), Aston Martin, Porsche, and Audi" and they add "so you know its good." They also say that the brake lines are for the _high pressure_ part of the brake system. Any listers know where I can get this kind of brake tubing here in the US?

Adrian Rose <Adrian.Rose@triad.plc.uk> Subject: Re: Cu & Cu-Ni brake tubes Fri, 19 Mar 1999 12:34:59 -0000
A UK supplier who might be able to help you US folks: According to their catalogue, Demon Tweeks do both Copper and Copper Nickel brake pipe. They claim the copper tube is slightly more malleable that the copper nickel, and is tested to 10,000 psi – apparently double SAE specs. The Copper Nickel is 60% higher than this and meets German TUV specs.

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/

"Jeff Cocking" <jeff@cocking.com> Subject: RE: Cu & Cu-Ni brake tubes Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 08:35:49 -0600
I was reviewing an article in a 93 issue of Your Classic. It had a big ad for a company called Automec. They specialize in Copper Brake Pipes. They sell premade sets for Loti as per their ad. Their address is as follows:

Automec Equipment & Parts

traff@ICON.HMSD.UFL.EDU writes: > Maybe I'm repeating old info, but there are a few interesting tech articles at the Dimebank web site. I found the one on brake tubing of interest. http://www.dimebank.com/tech/

dan.morrison@autodesk.com I bought one from NAPA. Can't vouch for the results yet though. I haven't driven the car yet.

whs018@conrad.appstate.edu Subject: Re: Twink carbs – federal Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 19:32:05 -0500 (EST) I never thought that SU's could go on a Europa, but I don't see why not!:-) Moss Motors sells a lot of SU carbs and they prive SU HS6 carbs (two of them, 1 3/4", says they will fit an MGB) for $700. That's *much* cheaper than Webers, and there's no machine work required. Does that sound like overkill, or does the twink like smaller carbs? Banks (in UK) sell Dellorto carbs for about $400 a pair, the last time I looked. Are the Dellortos (original size for Euro-spec) any better?

ClassMaker@aol.com Subject: Re: Twink carbs – federal Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 06:47:15 EST Because SU's (& Strombergs) are "variable venturi" carbs, they have a more flexible operating range. You can use a big throat carb like that, yet get the advantages of more torque (as from a smaller venturi) while taking off from idle and so on. With Weber or Dellorto, you are stuck with a "fixed choke" (main venturi) and you have to choose... optimize either the low end (torque) or the top end (power) -- you can't have both.. Compared to Webers... Dellortos have more progression holes--passages that drop fuel into the main venturies (also called "chokes"--but not to be confused w/starters). This provides a smoother transition between idle and main fuel circuits. Lotus was part of the Dellorto development process. In fact, the later the model (of either brand) the more progression holes you'll find. The earlier Webers started with 2. Early Dellortos had 3 (I've got those). The last of the Dellortos had 6 (six!). Richie Longo has experience in drilling extra holes in earlier carbs... but you've gotta know it is tricky. The SU's (variable venturi) are your least costly and most flexible option. And, if you ever get bit by the autocrossing bug, you'll be able to run in the SCCA "A Street-Prepared" (ASP) classes, a near-stock category.

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: Europa Update Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 20:17:09 –0700 I removed the butterflys and shafts, made a small plug from aluminum and pressed them in. An easier way would be to remove the butterfly and grind it down such that its equal in width to the shaft except at the ends so the shaft won't slip out of the manifold. The shaft will give minimum resistance yet look functional from the outside. Your choice. As you're pretty clever, other solutions may present themselves. Just keep the holes plugged in some way. If you grind it down and replace the screws, make sure you loctite them in so they don't drift into the cylinders.

Steve Brightman <Steve.Brightman@dalsemi.com> Subject: Fuel Pump OK Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 11:07:42 –0500 Although you'll never find a Haynes manual for a Lotus, they do one on Stromberg carbs. I found it useful during those years I was unfortunate enough to own Strombergs.

JerTigger@aol.com Subject: Stromberg carb jets Date: Fri, 2 Apr 1999 23:23:45 EST I recently replaced the needles and jets in my carbs, couldn't get the tool to remove and replace jets. It was suggested to install the new jets by using a punch. This didn't look like it would work. I found that an 1/8" pipe nipple fit over the bottom of the jet and was able to drive them in perfectly, except one went in to far. OOPS! Now how too drive it back down without distorting the port. I ground down the threads down on the end of the nipple and it fit the circumference of the jet perfectly. Runs pretty good now.

Fjcoop@aol.com Subject: Re: Help - Carb Tuning Woes Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 00:06:58 EDT Another issue is needle wear. Over time the needle may rub and wear down the original profile, thus changing the mixture.

JerTigger@aol.com The jets tap out easily with a drift punch, to go back in an 1/8 inch pipe nipple fits nicely over the bottom of the jet and you end up applying the driving force squarely on the shoulder on the jet so you dot have to worry about distorting the jet.

"Landaiche Ken (Nokia/PL)" <ken.landaiche@dlcc.com> Subject: RE: Help - Carb Tuning Woes Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 12:10:49 –0700 The Stromberg needles are turned to an accuracy of 1/10,000". So it can be pretty hard to see or measure wear that affects emissions. On my last CA smog adventure, I ended up changing the jets and needles. It was the only thing that allowed the mixture to be set correctly. And as Mike described, the idle was sweet. Until the smog tester leaned it down to nothing!

Warren Pearce <pearceww@rmi.net> Subject: Re: Help - Carb Tuning Woes Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 18:36:07 –0600 Along with needle wear that Foster mentioned, is jet wear. As we all know, the Strombergs have a spring loaded needle that rubs the side of the jet. After a few years, the wearing of the circular hole in the jet to an oval was easily seen. I have replaced my jets at least twice. My thoughts would be to replace both. Also, I was able to pass the Colorado Smog testing by just leaning the mixture a bit and making sure the timing was right on. I have gathered that it is a good idea to retard the timing a bit, but I've never done any testing. It should be noted that on my TC, the sole purpose of the vacuum diaphragm on the distributor was to retard the timing by 5 degrees at idle. Once you came off idle, the vacuum advance went away.

Jon Lexau <jon.lexau@eng.sun.com> Subject: Re: Europa TC Carbs Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 09:38:15 -0700
kmccormick@cgsinc.com said: > I have a US spec 72 TC with Strombergs that again need attention. The car is running so rich it is fouling the plugs at idle even with higher heat range plugs. The problem is most likely the needle/jets but have not taken it apart for inspection yet. My questions are:

Jon Lexau <jon.lexau@eng.sun.com> Subject: Re: Help - Carb Tuning Woes ken.landaiche@dlcc.com said: > Did you do the replacing? And if so, what's the way to ge the right > depth?

I found this note that I saved from Jerry Rein a while back about how he was able to change the jets ...JerTigger@aol.com said: > I found that an 1/8" pipe nipple fit over the bottom of the jet and was able to drive them in perfectly, except one went in to far. OOPS! > Now how too drive it back down without distorting the port. I ground down the threads on the end of the nipple and it fit the circumference of the jet perfectly.

Warren Pearce <pearceww@rmi.net> Subject: RE: Help - Carb Tuning Woes Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 17:42:07 –0600 Yep, Volvo jets work for the carbs. I used them some years ago. I used a depth gage to measure the depth of the original jets and then pressed the new ones in to the same depth. I agree that I didn't use a micrometer although that might have been a good idea. Rather, I used a vernier caliper. My feelings were (perhaps wrong - I'm sure I will find out now!!) that considering all the other variables, that I didn't need to seat them to a thousandths. I will save the other message with some precise measurements - glad to get that. Also, the bottom of the carb is set up to you can screw in a standard pipe and use an end cap to slowly move the jet in. As I remember (it was a long time ago) I put a lubricant on the jet to help press it in. I think (vague memories) that I used anti-seize compound.

Jon Lexau <Jon.Lexau@Eng.sun.com> jertigger2@cs.com said: I know how to adjust the needles but how can I tell between to rich and to lean especially since both banks of cylinders dump into a common exhaust pipe?

I have had good luck using a ColorTune sparkplug which has a quartz "window" so that you can see into the combustion chamber. The color of the spark changes with the mixture. rd-ent and others sell them for about $30.00 IIRC, or you are welcome to borrow mine for a bit. The other alternative seems to be lift the piston slightly with a screwdriver and listen for the idle to change up or down - I forget which is lean/rich. There are several web pages on the subject - I have used: http://www.team.net/sol/tech/su-tune.html in the past, which is for SU carbs,
but the basic principle is identical.

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> I just got mine semi adjusted. Which color springs and which needles have you installed? This helps. I went through a number of changes with mine, and I don't think they'll be exactly right until I get ahold of a Air/Fuel meter. But to get close:

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> I mixed up the B1Y and B1G needle reference:

"Dan Morrison" <lotusman@wa.freei.net> Here is a URL that has popped up in the past. Maybe it will offer some tips. http://www.vtr.org/maintain/carbs.html

"Landaiche Ken (Nokia/PL)" <ken.landaiche@dlcc.com> I have always used ATF, with reasonable results. Some Lotus types I respect highly use the recommended 20W50 motor oil.

JerTigger@aol.com Do yourself a favor and put new metering jets and needles in while you have the carbs apart. The needle wears on the side of the jet and wears them both down at the same time too small to see but makes a very big difference in running. Order complete rebuild kits plus needles and jets, the needle has a number on it if you pull out slightly the bottom.

"Phil Ethier" <pethier@isd.net> Subject: Re: Twink carbs Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1999 23:06:42 –0600 >My Federal Europa has Stromberg carbs on it. I've heard that they can be troublesome.

Rude, Gerald" <GDR1@pge.com> Subject: Strombergs Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 08:31:27 -0700
When driving back from Morro Bay on hwy 101, 46 and eventually 41 through the heat of the valley (100+ temps) everything went well, the car actually behaved itself, but when I stopped at home and let it set idling for a few minutes, the throttle cable froze. The teflon lining actually melted. I had the cable routed next to the frame opposite the SS headers, about 4 inches away. So a word of warning to all you Europa owners, route that cable away from the headers! I also removed the Strombergs to replace the jets in the body of the carb because of it not fully adjusting down in CO% when at the shop last. The jet height measured .057 in both carbs. Measured with a caliper, not a depth gage. I pressed out the old jets using a small press, I don't recommend using a hammer, as damage definately could result, they were quite frozen in place. The new jets, marked 100 as the old, were .002 inch larger than the new. This is interesting as simply pressing them in as is could result in cracking the carb body! So using my small lathe, a small file and emery paper (400 grit) I lightly removed the excess, put some light oil on the jets and pressed them in. I was able to get them to .056 depth, both identical. Using a dial indicator with the press helps. I then inspected the pistons, mine are from a 73 europa special which have two screws holding the needle bodys, and found the forward carb piston to be still flush with the needle body (the other needle was 1.5 turns down and the car was running 4.5%CO, somewhat rich). Apparently the screws were mixed, the allen and the spring loaded slotted screws holding the needle body in the piston. The allen was loose so as to permit the adjustment of the needle, and the slotted one tightened down. But the adjustment screw was just moving the star washer up and down in the piston, not moving the needle at all! In inspecting the holes for these screws, the hole for the allen screw is simply a threaded hole. But the other, for the spring loaded screw, doesn't thread all the way down, but the screw actually bottoms out and the spring loaded plunger which guides the needle body, protrudes thru to the needle body. Apparently if you swap the screws in their respective holes, the slotted screw will now prevent the needle from moving. So be careful with these two screws when assembling the carbs! Just for safetys sake, I left the allen screws out, as earllier versions of the carbs didn't use them, and they must have been there to prevent "users" from adjusting their federal emmission carburators. I then removed the temperature compensators, found the paper from the web telling how to syncronize them (on the triumph's web page), and did the hot water thing. It actually worked quite well, and now they are both full open at about 140F. All things are back together but I didn't have time to start the car and adjust the carbs, but things are progressing well!

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> As a side note, I found an article on adjusting the Temperature Compensators on the Triumph Maintenance Site. If interested: http://www.vtr.org/maintain/index.html will get you there. there are also articles on other british maintenance which applies ( brakes/touchup/washing/polishing).

Scott Mitchell <scott@fortner.com> I found the notes I took when I cleaned out my S2's weber. These are the bits that came with the car when I bought it from the PO. So I don't know how close it is. It seems to run alright, if a bit rich. I'll likely start tuning it when I add a header. It is a 32/36 DFAV.

paul a zielinski <paulzielinski@juno.com> The cheapest new Weber stuff I've found is from the Performance Parts Warehouse. Surf around for Weber carburators. Or email the boss, Buddy Crowley <perfparts@worldnet.att.net. They have legit Weber stuff, but rather than K&N, they'll have a cheaper, repro filter unit (almost as good, depending on your point of view).

ClassMaker@aol.com Phil, pethier@isd.net writes: Some fine day when I have devised a throttle setup at which the proprietor will not laugh, I will bring it the dyno shop to have the Weber side-draft carb set up properly.

I had a home-brew linkage. Now, I highly recommend (as a new user) the *beautiful* Weber-brand, anodized, bolts-right-onto-a-DCOE-carb linkage kit. Takes single or dual throttle cables. Has two return springs. Comes with your choice of topside or bottom mounting bracket. Nifty! A nice tangent-cable crank mechanism gives very linear movement. Includes appropriate throttle shaft fittings for twin-carb setups also. I have a 1 x 45DCOE based Hermes kit, and the linkage fit under it, between the carb and the headers. I have a sheet-metal aluminum shroud arching over the headers, to act as a make-shift heat shield. Over USD$100 but well worth it. Got mine from Ray Psulkowski, RDE. http://www.rdent.com/ -- site has web pages for specials, books, etc.

CHASSIS, Closing plate

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> If you have a used plate, the bent edges go down. One side will have three equally spaced holes, closest to the slight bend in the plate. That is the rear. Three 1/4 UNF screws go up into the frame (I would recommend you install SS bolts here as they tend to rust in!) which have nuts welded on the inside of the frame to hold them. The front will have, IIRC, 6 holes, three for attachment (use fender washers) to the fiberglass, and one for the ground point (on the passenger side, just to the rear of the attachment bolt). There are two other 1/4 inch holes, for which I have no idea what they are used for.

"Jason Rowan" <jrowan@ix.netcom.com> On my S2, there are only two 1/4 inch (approx.) holes at the front of the closing plate. So I guess Warren's plate was designed for all versions. And there's no extra hole for grounding on mine.

Warren R. Hartenstine whartenstine@earthlink.net The closing plate is cut 14" x 20 1/2" of 16 ga. steel (or galvaneel because it is paintable and rust resistant). Three holes are drilled along the 20-1/2" length, centered 7/16" from the edge and at left-to-right intervals of 1 1/4", 9 3/16" and 17". Three holes are drilled along the opposite 20 1/4" length, centered 1" from the edge and at left-to-right intervals of 1 1/2", 10 1/2" and 19 3/8". One hole is drilled along the edge with the holes at 1 1/2" from the edge, 3 1/2" in from the 20 1/2" length and 18 1/2" to the right of the left edge. The 14" sides of the sheet are then bend 90 degrees up (considering this hole pattern) 3/8" in from the edge of the 14" length. The pattern piece is rusted and deformed but appears to have holes 1/4" in diameter. I drilled the holes at 5/16" to allow fitting room, as tolerances for this piece, a bolt-on plate, are not very critical.

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> > From: phil72@snet.net Today I set the Tc body shell on the Spyder chassis and noticed that I have some gaps between the chassis and a few of the body mounting points....About 1/8"-3/16 at the front under the boot and the same for the two points under the dash, the rear is ok. I have to tighten the 2 Bolts under the dash about 1 1/2 turns beyond finger tight to get the seatbelt bolts to thread in easily which still leaves about a 1/8" gap. My question is should I just put a few washers in these gaps or is there enough flexibility in the fiberglass to pull the bobbins down to the chassis and not worry about it pulling out the bobbins or fracturing later due to road vibration etc.?

"SMITH, THOMAS B. (JSC-DX)" <thomas.b.smith1@jsc.nasa.gov> Shim it. My S-2 had many shims, which were plain fender washers. The shim pack was thicker on one side than the other (I don't remember which). I don't know why either...could have been to account for an uneven mold, or to level the body. And don't forget to use a closed cell foam or similar insulator on the backbone. I would not recommend using the felt that the factory installed, since it holds water very well.

sean murray <snmurray@iol.ie> Subject: Lotus Archives Date: Mon, 8 Mar 1999 16:19:05 GMT
Everett Stephens wrote: Several people have noted that they obtained info on original color, assy date, etc. on their Elan. My PO knows very little about the car except what he did to it, and I happen to be an inquiring mind... How do I go about finding out more? Write, with chassis number, to the Group Lotus archivist at this address :

Mr. Maurice Storey

"Rude, Gerald" <GDR1@pge.com> Subject: RE:Europa JPS Date: Mon, 8 Mar 1999 13:01:44 –0800 I too was mistaken about having a JPS. Mine is even the right color (Black/Gold) but to be a "real" JPS, it has to have a plaque on the dash, giving the number. I believe 100 were made for the US market, 100 domestic. It was another sales gimmick at the time which resulted in the Europa Special as we have. I really don't know any other difference between the JPS and the Special. Anyone else out there that can offer up some advice? Jerry Europa Special VIN 4005R

whs018@conrad.appstate.edu Subject: Re: Europa JPS is Special (U) Date: Wed, 10 Mar 1999 07:55:56 -0500 (EST) That's correct; the car does have the Big Valve engine. I do know some of the car's history. It was bought in May 8, 1974, in San Fransico. It was new. The documentation I have lists the car as VIN 4153 R, the color as Sable, and the interior oatmeal. Besides that, I can only find 3 other owners besides me, the last owner being my cousin. When he bought the car, he had it transported here to North Carolina because he was moving back. The car was dropped off at his mom's house and was simply never picked up!:-( Five years later I aquired the car from him (that was a few weeks ago). :-) Cheers, Aaron '74 Europa Special 4153 R

"Jay Mitchell" <jemitchell@compuserve.com> JOHN ZENDER wrote: I don't think Lotus put chassis numbers on the Europa Frames.

My S2 has the chassis number stamped on the outside surface of the right rear fork, forward of the detachable crossmember. I was unaware of this until Phil Ethier provided this information.

From: Jeff Mills & Tammy Gee <jeffandtam@inficad.com> Subject: Europa Aux Radiator and Engine Bay Airflow Date: Wed, 03 May 2000 03:24:25 –0700 Thanks for the replies, I did get a few degrees improvement but the final results aren't in yet on the aux radiator that I put inside my type 65's rear grille (on the heater core's circuit.) I forgot to add a bleeder valve to the radiator, and will need to do that this weekend. Plus I've got only 30% antifreeze in the mixture. I believe that's enough, but does anyone disagree? It never really freezes in Phoenix. It was 105 degrees F over the asphalt on my 22 mile highway commute. My swirl pot got up to 95 celsius. Not bad. As to bleeding the system, all I did was idle it at a ~15% incline and open the front radiator's bleeder while topping off the swirl pot. Does anyone see a problem with that? I think I have read conflicting reports on the actual flow directions in the engine bay. Anyone know the definitive answer? The truth is out there.

"Rude, Gerald" <GDR1@pge.com> Subject: (U) Cassette Water Pump Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 12:25:51 -0700
I just got off the phone with Ken at Bean, and the new cassette water pump, complete with new timing cover, new back plate and new cassette (with 907 innards) is to be shipped to me later this week !!

whs018@conrad.appstate.edu Subject: Coolants and Ignition Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 15:38:07 -0500 (EST) Today I saw an interesting product: Called propelene glycol, it is a type of coolant supposedly used in race cars. It has a boiling temp of more than 300 degrees and is said to transfer heat better than water. Another property being it doesn't create steam pockets around cylinders. Does anyone on the List use it? I don't know if it would work well in my Europa, but would keep it cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. Its also non-corrosive and non-toxic.

zigglu@us.ibm.com Subject: RE: Europa blower fan('72) Date: Tue, 6 Jul 1999 12:21:45 -0400
The fan I used is from late 1960s - early 1970s Mercedes 220 with Air Condition. They were equipped with a wonderful BOSH pusher fan which has cast aluminum shroud and very powerful plastic bladed fan. The fan is the same size as OEM fan. With Europa marginal cooling capability, this fan creates enormous flow through the radiator. I used also a dual position thermal radiator switch from Audi. There are very reasonable. I used a resistor in series for the first (low) speed and no resistor for the second (high) speed. I also used heavier gauge wires to make sure that there are no problems Lucas OEM wiring (just wanted to make sure that fans would work as designed). Because of the current requirement of the fan I used Bosch 30 Amp relays (donations from junked BMWs or Saab relay boxes) to switch the fan. Fan, relays and relay sockets did cost me $ 25.00 total. The fan operates mostly on Low, but knowing that it has capability to run on higher speed provides an extra measure of security. I also did run a switch to his dashboard which is configured to run the fan on full power as an added pre-caution.

Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 04:38:48 –0000 From: "Bob Weber" <gcthree@optonline.net> Subject: Big Surprise- electrical problem I've just switched from the original radiator fan to a later design, flat motor fan (bought it from Banks). I've wired-in a relay to preserve the motor over time, as well as a thermostat. My problem is
that the fan turns at, perhaps, 1/3 speed. I've bypassed the relay, and yet, I still have the same, slow results. The fan is OK, as I've tried it on a spare car battery, and boy, does it blow up a storm. I'm confused. Any help? Bob Weber ‘72 Twin Cam #2467R>>

Sounds like a wire size issue to me. The stock fan couldn't pull near the current as your replacement so the designers put in a small wire to supply it. Your new fan draws MegaAmps by comparison so you're getting a Mega
voltage drop as if youn added a resistor inline. Try it with a big wire and feel the flow. Steve gt6steve@aol.com

david.mirylees@freeuk.com I had doubts about the temperature in my type 74 and around 1980 asked the factory (Lotus) for info. on the running temp for my car. They informed me that the markings on the (Smiths)gauge were thus: between 50 and 90 indicated 75 and the mark between 90 and 140 indicated 105. They advised that normal running was halfway between the marks either side of the 90. They also informed me that the gauges are ±7½°. The pressure cap is 7lb. (AC Delco RC1 K7) and I use an 82° thermostat. I was worried whenever the gauge showed more than 90 - I shouldn't have been!

Mark Hollingsworth <markh@olympus.net> Subject: Europa S2 hoses Date: Sat, 10 Jul 1999 17:53:43 -0700
I have a couple of numbers that work for S2 Europa coolant hoses:

From: Harald Freise <hfreise@fox.nstn.ca> Don't know about the Twink but for the S2 an excellent substitute for the RHS coolant hose (the one that contains the thermostat) is from a 2 litre Cadillac Cimmeron. Yes, you read right Cadillac Cimmeron. I believe that there were a host of other period GM clone cars that had the same engine & body but I can't remember their names. The hose fits like it was made for the Europa S2 (and Gordini), thermostat and all.

From: "Mark MarKell" <Type46@micro-engineering.com> Subject: RE:Europa TC heater help needed Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 07:41:25 –0700 >Yes, I know I dot need a heater now but it gets cold here in the winter, 40-50.

"Mark MarKell" <Type46@micro-engineering.com> While looking at Bob Wells Europa autox car at WCLM it occured to me that his oil-to-water heat exchanger is almost identical in shape and size to the heat exchanger that is standard in Toyota MR2's. The MR2 exchanger is mounted on the rear bulkhead between the cockpit and engine and is a tubular affair about 18" long with water connections out either end and oil connections at right angles on either end. It would fit easily, and similar to Bob's, alongside the engine, inline with the right hand water tube. The water tube would need to be shortened to bring it up further forward than its present position and a 'sandwich' adapter applied to the oil filter to bring out the oil lines. Very small, light possibility.

Steve Brightman <Steve.Brightman@dalsemi.com> Subject: RE: Otter switch Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 09:43:36 –0500 > How tight should the fit be between the otter switch and the grommet in the radiator? In the course of my rebuild, I was just about to pour coolant into the radiator of my Plus 2, when I noticed that I could remove the otter switch with no more force than using my fingers. <

The grommet for the otter switch that turns on the Europa radiator fan on, Lotus p/n A036K6027Z, does not have an interior lip. FYI, the Volvo grommet for the same type of switch, p/n unknown, does have an interior lip and the same ID and OD, thus appears suitable as a substitute. The interior lip should provide more security against having the otter switch "blow out" of the radiator. whartenstine@earthlink.net

From: "Mark MarKell, Sr." <Type46@micro-engineering.com> I've built a replacement for the Otter switch in common use on our cars. I had a machinist make a brass plug that is a snug sliding fit into a copper plumbing 'tee' (1 inch I think) with a NPT internal thread. We silver soldered the brass plug in the tee, cut the original tubing and inserted the tee with tubing and clamps and did away with the original Otter switch port entirely. The thermostats (done two of these) were chosen from a Carquest catalog based on the same opening/closing temperatures and have bayonet connectors. These were inserted where the otter switch was in both an S1 Esprit and a 504 Elite. I plan on putting another in the Europa in the forward radiator hose path.

From: "Mark MarKell, Sr." <Type46@micro-engineering.com> I've built a replacement for the Otter switch in common use on our cars. I had a machinist make a brass plug that is a snug sliding fit into a copper plumbing 'tee' (1 inch I think) with a NPT internal thread. We silver soldered the brass plug in the tee, cut the original tubing and inserted the tee with tubing and clamps and did away with the original Otter switch port entirely. The thermostats (done two of these) were chosen from a Carquest catalog based on the same opening/closing temperatures and have bayonet connectors. These were inserted where the otter switch was in both an S1 Esprit and a 504 Elite. I plan on putting another in the Europa in the forward radiator hose path.

"Jay Mitchell" <jemitchell@compuserve.com> Scott wrote: >Now, I'm not so certain that the radiator is good. The radiator should be heating up fairly evenly, right? The inlet/outlet side is much hotter.

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> An old trick to see if the radiator is cooling evenly is to spray it with a light mist of water and watch if it evaporates evenly. The areas which won't evaporate the water are the plugged tube areas. If the radiator is too hot at the inlet/outlet piping, then it does indeed sound like the seperator plate is missing.

"Mark MarKell" <Type46@micro-engineering.com> Try using a bottle brush intended for cleaning baby bottles. Cheap and works better than a coathanger. Available in most supermarkets.

Jay Mitchell <jemitchell@compuserve.com> Björn-Anders Haverstad wrote: No big success... How do I remove the radiator without cutting in the body?

Mark Hollingsworth <markh@olympus.net> To remove the radiator you also have to remove the bonnet and the right headlamp pod. I can't remember if the fan needs to come off too or not. Isn't there two bolts in the wheel well?

Aaron Hines <whs018@conrad.appstate.edu> I _finally_ finished my radiator today! :-) I ended up attaching the frame with a silicone gasket goop called "the right stuff." I bought a large quantity of it (half of a caulk tube, fits in a caulk gun) after reccomendation by the clerk at the auto supply shop. It stuck to both surfaces well, and cures to a nice rubber substance.

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: Europa TC heater help needed Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 19:28:22 -0700 JerTigger@aol.com wrote: My 72 TC has the heater valve missing, there is antifreeze in the heater core. Does anyone have a diagram that shows the connections, flow for the heater I > think something is missing the car heats up but doesn't blow hot air. I think something is missing.

ClassMaker@aol.com JerTigger@AOL.COM writes: Forgive my ignorance but what is a swirl pot?
A cleverly designed coolant header tank. Coolant enters at the top, offset from center, so the stuff tends to swirl -- the pot is never actually full, maybe 2/3 so. This action is supposed to help bring bubbles to the center (centrifugal force throws heavier liquid outward) so what gets sucked out by the water pump is less aerated than it might have been otherwise. Pretty cool design, huh? Simple and efficient.

kmccormick@cgsinc.com My 72 runs between 95-105c. The radiator fan kicks in at 100. Standing traffic sends it a little higher. I use Red-Line "water wetter" coolant also, which trends to keep it a little cooler on hot days.

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Toddbrace@aol.com wrote: As a first time TC owner (Special), what should I deem a reasonable running temp. on a 90 degree day at highway speeds (55-65)?

I added a bottle of RedLine Water Wetter to my S2 last year and it also helped a little. However, I think Scott Mitchell tried it without seeing any difference. Jeff Hovis JeffH@biowhittaker.com

Mark Hollingsworth <markh@olympus.net> Thanks to Harald, I now have a engine to transfer tube hose. Dayco # 71159. I think it is the lower radiator hose from a 86 Cadallac Cimmaron- 2 litre. I haven't tired it on yet, but it looks like it will work great.

Alan Watkins <awatkins@cerf.net> Subject: Re: Europa Waterpump Date: Tue, 30 Mar 1999 09:30:00 -0800
At 10:29 PM 3/29/99 -0800, Jerry Rude wrote: As all europa owners know, the dreaded water pump is the most dreaded fear of all. It requires removing the engine/trans and removal of the head and oil pan to access the front timing cover/water pump case.

"Alan Watkins" <awatkins@cerf.net> Subject: RE: Europa Waterpump Date: Tue, 30 Mar 1999 19:44:54 -0800
As I said in my earlier posting, yes I've done it, and I don't think it's any particular secret in the Europa world that it can be done (despite someone's earlier incorrect assertion that the engine must be removed). My recollection is that the only direct interference to the timing chest coming off is from one of the coolant pipes, which you can gently bend out of the way. However, I would advise not attempting this unless you've already done the associated disassembly and assembly on a TC engine where you *could* see what you are doing, since in the Europa you would be doing it with very poor visibility of the many fasteners, etc., that you'll be dealing with. Aside from the clearance and visibility problems provided by the Europa the procedure is well documented in the various shop manuals and books (e.g. Wilkins) that cover the TC engine.

"Rude, Gerald" <GDR1@pge.com> Subject: Europa Waterpump Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1999 06:15:25 -0800
You are correct that you can change the waterpump without removing the engine, (it was me that said you must remove the engine), however, I would not recommend such a task. IMHO, after rebuilding the entire TC, that to try such a task is a bit sadistic :-). I really don't see why removing the engine is harder. Actually, removing this engine, where everything is accessable, is quite a pleasure in contrast to others I've done.

"Mark MarKell" <Type46@micro-engineering.com> Subject: RE:Europa waterpump Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1999 08:31:36 –0800 Pulling the engine and transaxle as a unit is not tough in a Europa and would allow you to A.) become more familiar with your new vehicle and B.) allow you to better evaluate any drivetrain problems and correct some things that may get much worse if the car is driven. If the car has sat for such a long time you may find the clutch is frozen to the flywheel, which is not uncommon and the Hooke joints at the axles may very well need replacing or at least lubed (a failure there is not fun!). It would allow close inspection of the shift mechanism and the flexible brake lines at the radius arms (excellent time to replace with braided lines). In any case I'd bet you'll feel safer if you've had the whole works out once. OTOH, try not to let such an occasion mushroom as it's very common for new owners to pull the whole works and get so involved in upgrading this and that as to not get it back together for years (yes, I've been there). Driving one of these cars, even not completely restored, is a delight and a great motivator!

My US$.02: I would agree with doable, but I'll never do it that way again. I'll remove the engine from now on. Hours (seems like) under a dripping in-car-engine is just no fun. davea@sgi.com

Randall Fehr <rsfehr@seanet.com> There is potentially less tension on the Europa TC water pump pulley because the tension is factory-designed if you use the correct pulleys and belt. There is potentially more tension on an Elan TC because owners and mechanics can over-tension the belt by swinging the generator out.

brian.scally@philips.com Subject: Twink water pumps Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999 10:48:11 +0200
I have engaged Burton Power of the UK in a conversation regarding the replacement of the twin cam water pump (on an Elan) to help improve it life and serviceability. Here is there response...<Water pump failures are a common problem on the twin cam engine and there is no easy solution to the problem. However, we have remanufactured the complete water pump/front cover assembly so that the water pump itself is a removable module unit that can be easily remove to change the seals. Cost of this is 397.33 inc vat.> The price is in UKP and their email address is mailto:burton.power@dial.pipex.com. The specialise in tuning and performance mods to European Ford engines.

robinso2@world.std.com (wallace robinson) Subject: RE: Twink water pumps Date: Fri, 9 Jul 1999 15:37:58 –0400 The previous owner of my twin cam bored the water pump housing out to take a larger water pump bearing from a Pinto. I bought a new Pinto water pump (very cheap) and pressed out the bearing, then pressed the bearing into the twin cam housing, when I wanted to replace it. Perhaps this bearing is more durable, certainly it is cheaper.

Keith Gustafson <gusmach@shore.net> Twink front timing cover/water pump removal Tue, 3 Aug 1999 09:36:48 –0400 Whatever you do, Do NOT put a screwdriver in to pry between the timing chest and the timing chest rear. Lots of people do this and destroy the sealing surface THere are O rings around the water pump, and the area around them is all corroded and stuck together. Try some penetrating oil right in the area around where the water pump sticks through. Be patient! I think the reason they tell you to pull the engine is so that you can really get a grip on the pump and yank the sucker out. Stay away from the damn hacksaw! Remember that you want that cover to seal up well when you are done, so much caution is called for. I think the first time I did this, I used a large screwdriver, carefully cushioned, and applied pressure from inside the timing chest, first one side, then the other, penetrating oil, a little heat, pressure, repeat. It takes a while, but you won't ruin the case. Again DO NOT try to drive a screw driver between the cases, you will destroy the seal and earn yourself a good TIG welding bill. A few hours of patient work, a little care in reassembly, and you won't have this nightmare again.

Mike Causer <mikec@mikecauser.org> Subject: Re: Twink rebuild—update Date: Sun, 27 Jun 1999 22:54:47 +0100 Aaron Hines wrote: Has anyone used the toothed drive belt (sold by ???) that lowers the tension needed to drive the water pump, hopefully prolonging its life?

rod farnsworth <farnsworthr@nucleus.com> IKneer@aol.com wrote: Unfortunately my car came with the facia and dash out, and not having seen a Europa in one piece since '73 I'm struggling a bit.

> From: Daren Stone [mailto:dastone@cisco.com] Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 6:17 AM Europa dash lettering? am having a second dash re-veneered for my Europa (1970 S2), and was wondering about the lettering that identifies the various rocker switches. Whether or not lettering was used on the S2, (neither of my old dashes had any lettering) I would like to know what type of letters people have used (decals, rub-on, adhesive-backed), what font size, type & color, and where one may source suitable letters.

g ford <gmfmo@mweb.co.za> I was surprised that the instrument panel forms a structural member and if indeed this is correct will alter my thinking on how to replace the rotten plywood. The dash facia is indeed a structural member, though maybe not much more than a stiffener for that part of the body. I think it provides a tie between the windshield and the frame and doors to stiffen things and prevent scuttle shake and the like. Note that there is a steel band which bolts to the bottom of the dash and goes all the way across the car, and the bolting to the frame behind the ashtray. Marine plywood should be strong enough, if you can find it in the right thickness, but then you have to veneer it also. I think mine is a maple hardwood beneath the mahogony veneer, having about 5 or 6 plys. You can buy the whole dash panel, complete and finished. It would save you alot of work. In looking at the panel with the gages and everything out, it is very flimsy. I think the steel band and the center section the only real structural parts. Jerry Rude

You can fabricate a wrench from PVC pipe. You need the patience to cut the castlelated grooves. Do you have a Dremel drill? A machine shop (high school shop?) can easily do this from any handy stock, including metal.
Paul http://home.sprintmail.com/~paulzielinski

I made a diff tool by taking a 1" washer ( 1" id , 21/2" od ) cutting 18 radial slots to match the fins on the trans nuts
and welding that to a 1/4" drive 11/4" used socket that I picked up at a salvage store. Works great, I'll send a pic if you like. Don't use force on the fins, they are alloy and will break easily. John Abbott Amarillo, Texas ‘71 Europa S-2 Hermes http://users.arn.net/~jdaarch/

With PVC, I actually filed it freehand. I made the template I mentioned before, glued it to the end of the pipe, used a triangle file to mark each cut (before the template disintegrated) then cut each slot deep enough with a 1/8" round file. The depth was only about the diameter of the file. It was all pretty easy. Good luck with it. ken.landaiche@nokia.com

"Phil Ethier" <pethier@isd.net> >From: Jon Lexau <Jon.Lexau@Eng.Sun.COM> OK, I give up, how does one re-install the drive shafts in a Europa??

Cory Carpenter May 11 '92 at 11:18 am –420 RE: Help w/'71 Europa S2 (message addressed to hinckleys@h8700a.a1.ca.boeing.com) Scott Hinckley > I helped a friend work on a '71 Lotus Europa S2 today and we could use some help. It goes like this... We were planning on replacing the rear wheel bearings (parts came with the car when he bought it some time ago.). We removed the wheel (badly corroded lug nuts), removed the hub (brake housing), unfastened the tie rod and shock from the suspension arm, unbolted the suspension arm, used a puller to pull the spindle out of the arm, and discovered that several bearings were missing from one of the runs! (no wonder it pulled so badly). Since the old spindle was kind of chewed up we went ahead and took apart the lower U-joint, it shows some wear. Here are the things we haven't been able to do:

mikej@wv.mentorg.com I'd call that inexcusable! (OK, OK, so it was F.O.S. -- nothing's too outrageous. Reminds me of the TTL-level electrikludge system in Phil's Europa.) Granted the specified puller is probably only available as a "special tool" from the factory, but it wasn't too difficult to kludge up an alternative using part of my big three-jaw wheel puller and some heavy welded-link chain. In fact, I'm surprised that the hub carrier wasn't cracked if the guy was pounding on it: I was pretty amazed at how thin those castings are.

lotus-cars%netcom.com@medtronic.com Europa rear hub and bearings, help lotus-cars@netcom.com

JerTigger@aol.com In a message dated 7/7/99 11:49:33 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Jon.Lexau@Eng.Sun.COM writes: I pulled the assembly through the hub mostly by hand, except for maybe the last quarter inch. I figured, just put the hub back on and when I crank down the big nut it will pull everything tight. Well, silly me, 450 lbs of impact wrench won't budge a thing. Is there some trick to this?

Jon Lexau <Jon.Lexau@Eng.Sun.COM> Thanks for all of the suggestions - yesterday I was able to get both shafts installed to my satisfaction. It turned out to be a combination of several problems, I think. First, I did not realize that there is supposed to be a small gap between the outer face of the yoke on the outboard shaft and the inner face of the trailing arm. I was expecting the outboard shaft to end up further outwards than it really is supposed to - I guess that's why I need a digital camera to take pictures with when I take things apart! Also, I suspect that there may have been some bit of extra metal or rust that I was hanging up on. I cleaned up everything with a ScotchBrite pad and things went together more smoothly. Finally, I think it is important to pull the stub axle tight before putting the hub back on, and not try to assemble it all at once. At least I had much better luck this way. I used a short section of plumbing pipe and a couple of large "mechanical bearings" from Ace Hardware. I have not Loctite'd yet, but will after I have let it settle in a bit (as dave bean's catalog suggests). I have not decided whether or not to use the tab washer; for now it is in there. The sadder new is that now that the axles are back in I could shim the output yokes and try it out. Unfortunately, no amount of shimming is going to fix up my transaxle, so Mark MarKell and I pulled it yesterday (not a bad job with two people). I am taking it to a local Renault specialist next week to see what they can do.

ClassMaker@aol.com dinardo@en.com writes: > Removed inboard u-joint & used a gear puller & the yoke still wouldn't budge.. I'm hessitant to apply heat to the yoke because of the diff. seal. Anyone have a suggestions ?

Buy new seals. Set up the gear puller and add some heat. It is not uncommon to find a yoke with red or green LocTite on it... to make up for some slop or wear. New seals are in order anyway... you wouldn't want to do it again sometime soon, just because the seals decided to leak next month! Don't overcook it. Just warm it enough to release it. Check the yoke to make sure you didn't stretch the cup holes for the u-joints. But, if the yoke splines are worn badly... better find a new yoke instead. Finally, use top quality u-joints. Hardy Spicer, or NEAPCO. With or without grease nipples. Just don't forget to pack the new cups with good grease (I suggest AMSOIL synthetic). As shipped, they only have a light assembly grease.

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: [lotuseuropa] Europa TC charging circuit help needed Date: Mon, 07 Jun 1999 21:27:35 –0700 JerTigger@aol.com wrote: I recently put the instruments back in the car. When I start the car and run it about 1000 rpm the charge indicator lite is on and the ammeter doesn't budge. Rev the car up to about 2000rpm then charge lite goes out and ammeter shows charge. Let car back down to 1000 rpm and lower it still charges. Shut car off restart and it doesn't charge again until it revs up again. I don't know how it worked before as the old ammeter was bad and I had to have the alternator repaired I don't think the charging lite worked before either.

"SMITH, THOMAS B. (JSC-DX)" <thomas.b.smith1@jsc.nasa.gov> If you are not familiar with the voltage regulator, I would take the whole alternator to your local auto parts store, as most will check it out for free (in US, anyway). I don't know if they will give you a diagnosis, but it may tell you something. You can try to bypass the VR, to see if it will charge below 2000 RPM, but I am not familiar with the Lucas design (some switch the ground and others switch the positive supply to the rotor).

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> The TC Delco one has a solid state one. But different from the typical Chevy/GM alternator one. I understand you can swap them though, I think there is a Lotus Ltd article in their Europa manual. The fact that he can charge at the lower rpm following a high rpm burst may suggest loose/broken connection somewhere also. They come apart rather easily, and have internal connections which could be suspect.

"SMITH, THOMAS B. (JSC-SP)" <thomas.b.smith1@jsc.nasa.gov> I agree that the external connections could be loose, but if it is like the typical GM alternator, the internal connections are bolted, which IMHO would be less prone to vibration/loose connections.

EUROPA7T@aol.com Subject: B-B-b-bad Horn (U) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 1999 03:20:27 EST
>Steve Shipley wrote: Everything works. I'd never have figured out the bad ground that kept the horn from working. And now I've got a tach, speedo, and hand brake.

Tom Rollins <tom@ntcs-inc.com> I don't know about all of these Items, but there is one thing I ran into when working on my front suspension that might help. The front wiring harness grounds into the front skid plate that covers the gap between the nose underside, and the "T" section of the frame. Since the ground wire connects to the plate, and the plate to the chassis, you have to make sure you have a good connection. After I repainted my front suspension parts, including the front skid plate, my lights, front fan, turn signals and dash indicators didn't work properly. I ended up sanding the paint off of the ground connection and one of the bolt holes and then assembled with dielectric grease. I also ran into similar grounding problems after reinstalling my engine and gearbox. I think that many of your problems might be traced to bad connections/grounds. Tom Rollins 1974 Lotus Europa Special 4158R

"Mark MarKell" <Type46@micro-engineering.com> MANY, if not most, of the electrical problems in these cars are caused by bad grounds due to the annoying notion of the time that the chassis was a fine grounding point. I had similar problems as you've described and spent a half day with a Dremel and rotary brush just cleaning connections, including the inside surfaces of each and every light socket and push on connector. The rear lights in the S1 had been factory wired with the ground going to the light mounting bolt and ignored the grounding tab directly beside it. None of those lights worked, but all worked after fixing the ground. The flashers may start to work fine once the lights themselves work, as they depend on the proper number and size bulbs being attached in each circuit. Too few and no flashing occurs, too many and the flash rate is very high. Don't even worry about either the flashers or hazard lights till after all lamps work. Remove the flasher (make a drawing if it's not in a socket!) until all the lamps are working. Then if it doesn't work replace the flasher last. Dashboard problems are also often grounding problems as the instrument grounds are often attached to the instrument mounting screws instead of grounding ears. The tach, at least, has a separate grounding ear that may need cleaning. The car originally had a small horn forward. The air horns were probably an aftermarket addition and may or may not have eliminated the original. It's a good idea to run air horns through a relay to save the horn button contacts, so look for one and see what was done. A quick and dirty method of looking for grounding problems is to get about 10 feet of heavy (18 ga) stranded wire and attach one end SOLIDLY to the negative terminal at the battery. Then go around testing things and manually ground metallic parts of things that don't work such as the window motor, the rim of instruments or the case of taillight pods. Any change of operation implies a bad ground somewhere. It's really important to realize that bad connections often only appear bad when significant current is being passed through them. Either a power or a ground connection may look fine with a meter until the circuit is energized, so test with the appliance in question turned on and a voltmeter rather than using the ohmmeter on a dead circuit. Those points that are on the ground side of any appliance will read a higher voltage under load if the ground is bad as the ground point is 'floating'. BTW, someone mentioned dielectric grease. If your local parts dealer doesn't have any (or know what it is) just try a local electrical contractor or electrical supply store (non-automotive) as it's commonly used in house wiring (by code requirement) on high current aluminum wiring at residence entry.

"SMITH, THOMAS B. (JSC-SP)" <thomas.b.smith1@jsc.nasa.gov> Head lights and front markers use a common ground (on my S2 anyway), which is usually attached to the steering column bracket, so first thing would be to check for corrosion, etc. Also check the little bullet connectors up underneath the front section (removing the bonnet makes this easier, but is a two person job, unless you are very careful, or rig a rope up to your garage ceiling). You can also run a wire directly from the negative battery terminal to the ground wires (black) to test if the problem lies with the positive or negative side. The bulkhead light (interior) uses pin switches on the doors which supply ground. First check the bulb, then the pin switches. They get corroded and do not make good contact...you can sometimes get them to work with a wire brush. Does yours have a manual on/off switch? If so, and if it still doesn't work, supect the bulb, or positive supply. Also, the PO may have disconnected them, in a poor attempt to disable the chime/buzzer.

Aaron Hines <whs018@conrad.appstate.edu> Anyway, my Europa had EXACTLY the same problem. It came from a bad ground and/or connections in the front. The main ground was attached to the temp sensor/plug in the radiator. I haven't permenately fixed mine yet, but I have found the problem. Try hooking a suitable wire (14 Gauge, at least!) to the neg. terminal of the battery and putting an aligator clip on the other end. Make your lead long enough to reach to the front of the car. Look for black wires that aren't connected and try hooking the test wire to them...but one at a time. Also, try unhooking the bullet connectors and removing oxidation from them. Put dielectric grease on them before you reconnect them! Hope this helps!

From: Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> The front electrical ground(s) does indeed clamp to the closing plate,
however, you might want to run a #10 black ground wire from the closing plate ground to the instrument ground to the rear frame ground at the diagnal braces. This functionally bypasses the frame ground and will help keep things running better, longer. Also, when attaching the ground in the front, you will need to grind down to bare metal around the hole, then use anti corrosion paste and clamp things together. The paste will keep things from corroding and rusting. Then if you like, you can spray paint over it if you wish. I used SS 1/4 inch bolts and nuts to minimize corrosive action up there, as it does really get wet if you get caught in a rain storm.

ClassMaker@aol.com In a message dated 4/19/99 11:35:07 AM Eastern Daylight Time, thomas.b.smith1@jsc.nasa.gov writes: > What might cause this? Ive cleaned the relay contacts in the regulator, and > checked the main wires and terminals for corrosion, etc

Harald Freise <hfreise@fox.nstn.ca> I had a regulator failure and ended up going to the local auto parts
jobber. I wanted a direct replacement for the unit that failed in the car. I ended up with a Wilson #62-03-2600 which certainly looks the part. Additional markings on the body are M107 71941A C524. Black body about 2.5" x 1.5" x 1 3/4", one terminal for FLD, the other for IGN with a base ground. I thought it was NOS mechanical unit with a coil and contacts but, curious me, peeked inside and found the guts to be simple electronics. I remember that they were very inexpensive @ CDN$10.40 each last year. The cross reference is early '60's Chrysler products and was intended to be installed on the firewall. The fluorescent orange warning label has all sorts of Warnings about proper grounding of the base but including: "DO NOT ATTEMPT TO POLARIZE a charging system that uses an alternator." This HAS to be old technology! :0 Harald

From: g ford <gmfmo@mweb.co.za> This explanation of my problem which was self inflicted may stop others repeating my stupidity. The Motor has 2 spade lugs on it. It is a split series motor. Each lug is connected to either end of the field coil. The switching is arranged to put power on to one coil end for up and the other end for down. return current path is via the armature and the earth of the motor case. Powering up both ends of the coil is virtually a dead short. This results in burnt finger and flash marks on my everyday car battery terminals. When all else fails read the book !

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: Electrical Problems Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 20:49:17 -0700
Aaron Hines wrote: 1) When the key is turned to the 'I' position, the small indicators between the tach and speedo come on like the lights are on. But the lights aren't on. The front and side indicators light up (outside), but nothing else.

ClassMaker@aol.com Subject: Tech article - Lucas colours IN COLOR Date: Wed, 7 Apr 1999 13:56:58 EDT
I found a way-cool *colorized* colour code chart, a derivative of the Dimebank info, from an MG nut... http://www.mgb.bc.ca/service/lucas-colours.html "Lucas Wiring Guide" -- that chart, printed in color, is the best version I've seen yet. They also list the address for British Wiring Inc (in Illinois, USA) and a couple other vendors for appropriate wires.

Randall Fehr <rsfehr@seanet.com> Subject: RE: Electrical Problems Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 21:52:42 -0700
I have replaced several Lotus harnesses with new reproductions when the existing harness was baked/burned/hacked sufficiently to warrant new, but the majority of the time spent was actually in repairs to "appliances": corroded contacts in lamps and connectors, diagnosis of faults extraneous to the harness itself, innumerable PO "fixes", etc etc. In other words, electrical malfunctions are rarely attributable to the harness itself unless it had experienced a meltdown (caused by an extraneous short) and/or bad previous repair attempts. So a new harness, whether original spec or home-made, is probably not necessary and certainly not the efficient approach in Aaron's case. Note that Lucas color-coded wire and bullet connectors, lamp plugs, grommets, harness tape, clips & sundries are all available for authentic repairs. My favorite supplier (in North America) is British Wiring near Chicago, phone 708-481-9050. They also stock harnesses for Elans, Europas
and some other Lotuses.

JerTigger@aol.com When I got my car I had the same problems with the electrical system. The first thing I did was stand on my head and try to figure out the electrtical system Ha Ha what a joke!! A suggestion is first to get the repair manual theere are wiring diagrams in it that are very close. Gave me a good start. Then I removed the dash so I could see what I had. Lots of extra wires. Hooked up everything without the dash got out my test light and VOM It is amazing how much easier to trouble shoot if you can see. Get Numbered wire markers before you start, also ran a new 6 gauge ground wire up from the battery and r grounded everything in front.

daren stone <dastone@cisco.com> Subject: Great US source for wiring, was: Europa wiring Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 10:50:25 –0700 For those of you who've seen John Zender's Europa in its latest incarnation you may have noticed that the wiring harness has the application embossed every 4 inches on each wire (ex:headlights, brake lights, etc.). Thus, in addition to being color-coded, you don't need a schematic to know what wire goes where. John got this wire from a place I found at one of the local Hot Rod shows, which in addition to selling the wire in bulk, they will happily make up a kit for you to re-wire the entire car. Having installed one of these kits on an heavily modified old truck I have, I have to say their quality is top-notch.

"jeff hovis" <jhovis@mindspring.com> I have a type 65 with an 807-13 Gordini. I will tell you that it is not a one-for-one switch. There are a few minor differences. The Gordini engines are from front engine cars. The R16 was also for a front engine car but all the modifications were done by Renault and Lotus. The Gordini still has some pulleys that need to be removed and sealed. The battery will need to be moved because the carbs or fuel injection will interfere. I did find that the header I installed has more room and has much more clearance from the starter than in the R16. I advise anyone who wants to install a header on an R16 motor to either buy a starter shield or some header wrap. When a header is installed on an R16 engine, it almost touches the starter and is
very hot. It will actually cause the starter to overheat and it will not work until it cools. The Gordini will bolt right to the 336 transmission without any modifications. Also, I think that it is possible to bolt a Gordini head to an R16 but I think some modifications may be necessary. I think that the crossflow head will also help the engine run a little cooler. Finally, the stock 807-13 engine puts out 120hp. I changed pistons, valves, cam and added a header and should be able to show at least 130hp which is the main reason I and others have made the switch. I must also say that I don't have the skills to perform an engine rebuild myself and have paid a professional racecar fabricator to do the work. He doesn't take any shortcuts and everything that can be replaced with new parts has been done. The result is an engine that looks new and is very well built but very expensive.

I have seen and taken pictures of John's "Ultimate Europa" and among other mods he does indeed have a BDA installed. The alternator powered by a pulley connected to the intake cam. Here is the link to the article about
his car: http://www.gglotus.org/ggtech/ultieuropa.htm John Hammond Houston

Here is a link I found with some info on the 4A-GE and its relatives. http://home.clear.net.nz/pages/phil.bradshaw/4AGE%20into%20RWD.htm Although it mentions the BDA, it lacks usefull comparison information. Interesting in its own right however. Perhaps Jay has more/better information. Tom Rollins

Try this: http://www.onthenet.com.au/~billzila/4agstock.htm and this: http://www.club4ag.com/ Jay Mithell

Good news! The R16 cam has been reground to Isky Gordini Cam specs and ships out tomorrow 2nd day UPS. To recap...the original Gordini cam broke a tooth when we turned the engine. So we sent the original R16 cam to Isky and they were able to regrind it to Gordini specs. Maybe I'll make to to British Motorcar Day afterall. Jeff Hovis JeffH@biowhittaker.com

ClassMaker@aol.com paulzielinski@juno.com writes: > So I ran the motor three minutes today at 1500-2000 RPM. This is good. LUNATI's Tech Note # 4 (on Camshaft and Lifter Wear) has big red letters warning: Do NOT let the engine go below 1500 RPM during the break-in period! (They also describe break-in procedures, a 30 to 45 minute series of running cycles, varying speeds.) http://www.dragnbreath.com/LunatiRacing/Lindex.html (frames) Then go to "technical info" and pick "How to Prevent Camshaft and Lifter Wear" --or-- go straight to unframed page... http://www.dragnbreath.com/LunatiRacing/TechNotes/TN4CamLiftWear.html I didn't have this info when I rebuilt mine, and it has survived many years and many miles. They explain why reusing the old lifters (with a new cam) is also a "no-no" (I may have done that, too).

"Michael Johannes Ditz" <mditz@bndlg.de> Stromberg people, I think that they did a lot of trial eand error at Hethel in those days, and I would not suggest everybody to repeat the procedure. Note that a TC with Strombergs with or without crossover pipes does not run properly with the original distributor, which was only used to satisfy the federal requirements. According to M.Wilkins a Stromderg TC does need much more advance. I would say that the crosspipes work as a big air leak at idling. It is not the length of the duct that is wrong, for it was retained in the domestic setting. By the way the setting is the one of the Stromberg Elan S3, which, with steeper cam and higher compression, proved almost as fast as the later domestic Sprints on Webers. With no air leaks the car runs fantasticly until the damper oil is approx half way gone, and can be adjusted down to 1.5 CO, best at 2.5 CO.

"Robert D. LaMoreaux" <Rob_LaMoreaux@compuserve.com> Subject: RE:Cross over pipe removal Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 13:24:10 –0500 >As a test I disconnected the linkeage for the crossover butterflies and wired them
>fully open. By doing that I had a hard time keeping it running. What am I missing? What other adjustments need to be made to the carbs etc?

My engine did not come with the stock manifold so the crossover pipes are useless. The butterflies had also been removed. If it is idle that is the problem you might block off the vaccum going to the vaccum retard on the distributor. I replaced the needles and springs with the european spec ones, and I am making a closing plate to block off the pipes going over to the exhaust side. I've talked to a number of people who said the easiest thing is to go to european spec with the crossover adapter kept in.

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: [lotuseuropa] Cross over pipe removal Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 12:11:39 –0800 References: <e4.e431a1.25c398ec@cs.com> 001801bf6a3e$a9d9c0c0$f7cf5fc2@bologna I'm trying to tune my stromber CDs also. I've installed new seats (fixed) and new needles (adj) and am using the color tune method, however, am still unsure of the outcome. I have the weaker springs (natural color) which are new, installed grose jets, and a pressure regulator. I think it is running a little lean, as the plugs show a light tan on the electrode, but the tip of the electrode shows like a blistering. The insulator is clean, white almost a rose color. The plugs are NGKs. The car runs fine, seems to pull fine, no missing, recent rebuild. I can't do the lift the piston test, as it continually reacts like it is too lean. If I install stiffer springs (reds) I can balance the lifting the piston routine, and the plugs will go to a tan color, but it seems to run rich on the top end, when crusing. I am thinking of buying a CO tester, but can't correlate the CO mix to A/F ratio.

Michael Johannes Ditz <mditz@bndlg.de> Re: [lotuseuropa] Cross over pipe removal Sunday, January 30, 2000 12:21 PM As I did the mods some years ago, I can give only vage descriptions. I went to England and bought the parts for little money, because the British detest the Stromberg cars. You can get a head for as little as 100 Pounds. So I got the duct with the upper ballance pipe and the 40953 distributor for 90 Pounds. Plus a red camcover with the holes to fix the trottle cable for 80 Pounds. So get them before they are all thrown away. I kept the original Strombergs with the fixed needle and also retained the jets. My car had run 65k miles without wear at that point. I changed the needles to 2 BAR floating (readily available) and kept the natural springs. As it is in the original drawings, I added a second starting device to the posterior carb, which helps starting considerably, but makes the choke very stiff to operate. Then I went through a nightmare with air leaks, because I am a non-professional and wanted to retain the original screws and the flexible mounting. The engine used to suck the O-rings after ca 100 miles, once it did so at idling. Experts have told me later that everybody up to the early Esprits screw their carbs down as tight as the spanner would allow. After a carefull syncronisation I adjusted them by ear and ended up with a far too rich mixture. Unter CO testing the car ran properly down to 1.5, with the federal (little effect) adjustment screws "allowing" 1.0 to 6.0 CO figures. Needles and jets are flush with the Stromberg body as described in the OM. The whole thing starts at the first crank and pulls immediately. As I said, it does so untill half of the damper oil is gone. I use 20-50 engine oil as recomended. Richard (Banks) said to me once, if you have problems at tickover, try different damping liquids. But IMO there is no such influence as the smallest air leak. No chance to get the engine running.

From: ken.landaiche@nokia.com My Stromberged TC cam to me without the crossover pipes. It is otherwise
stock and can be made to run quite well. I have had the most success in tuning it by using a quad mercury vacuum gauge. Well since it has four tubes, I measured vacuum before and after the butterflies and was able to
balance the carbs very nicely. As one lister recently noted, any air leaks will kill the tune. But you can
keep the vibration isolation effect of the 0-rings without having leaks. I tightened the thackery-washered nuts to give about 2/3 the gap recommended in the manual.

"SMITH, THOMAS B. (JSC-DX)" <thomas.b.smith1@jsc.nasa.gov> Friday I took my all-stock Federal R-16 in for emissions-- it's due this month-- and it was twice the limit for hydrocarbons at idle. Last year it passed very well. So I drove it around and got back in line for a second test, tweaking the air and petrol screws, and still no luck.>

When I had to take my Europa into NJ inspections every year, it always failed emissions the first time around (until I figured out the trick). It didn't matter if I just put in new points, plugs, and overall tune-up. Since they only test at idle, I would lean out the idle mixture till the car barely ran. It would pass emissions no problem, and at which point, I may have opened it back up (I really won't admit to doing this, but somehow, it must have worked it's way loose:-)). Anyway, this was true for both the Solex carb AND the Weber downdraft replacement.

Aaron Hines <whs018@conrad.appstate.edu> I used some insulation called "The Insulator" from Aircraft Spruce & Specialty. The stuff is used in aircraft and is FAA approved, and said to provide "optimium" protection from heat, sound, and moisture. Good stuff... See http://www.geocities.com/aaronhines

Fjcoop@aol.com Subject: Re: (U)Europa Twin cam engine rebuilding Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 15:59:38 EDT
One absoluete no-no concerning the head (actually 2): Do not bead blast!! Do not hot dip - cold dip only to clean it up!

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Just don't forget the oil return tube? What type of gasket sealer? I used Kopper Koat spray on this time. The well seal was OK I guess, but the copper flecks seem alittle better, especially if you have any small scratches or flaws. Important thing is not to turn the cams independently of eachother without watching for interference (bent two the last time) and make sure the pistons won't be hitting the valves when dropping the head on. And use the guide rods, it makes things so much better.

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Warren Hartenstine wrote: > By the way, Jerry, I used wooden dowel rods for the guide rods. Seemed to work fine! Price was right! Was it you who cut off some bolts and cut a screw slot into the bolt shank?

Peter Blackford <pmbsab@naples.infi.net> My trusted Renault expert recalls that the heads & head gaskets are the same, just different liners & pistons.

> From: Jean Giroux <jean.giroux@videotron.ca> In the process of assembling parts to cure an oil leak at the cylinder head of my non-federal europa (renault 697 engine, 1470cc), I'm being told that the head gasket is interchangeable with the larger bore federal europa.

"Type46" <Type46@micro-engineering.com> Took the Esprit header down for ceramic coating this week and in the ensuing conversation it became clear there are two general forms in use. The more common is the 'popular' coating that is cosmetically pleasing and has about 50% reflectivity, but the more functional and less pretty form has about 80% reflectivity. I opted for the latter as the main idea was to remove the heat from the left motor mount on the S1, not look showy. BTW, the coating works by reflecting the heat inward from the surface of the pipe. It doesn't reduce the heat or conduct it into the block, just delays the point at which it heats the pipe. The Catalytic converter following the header can be expected to run hotter, which actually helps its process, and the surrounding area needs to be able to accomadate that extra heat.

Brian.Martley@tesco.net writes: If you're going to do any work on the engine - sounds like you're heading that way - have you read/got the book by Miles Wilkins called the "Lotus Twin-Cam Engine" ? It's better than the factory manual, with lots of "how-to" bits in there and practical advice from someone who's built lots of engines.

Randall Fehr <rsfehr@seanet.com>

Mark Hollingsworth <markh@olympus.net>

ClassMaker@aol.com Jason Rowan asked... > Jeff, Have you had any replies about your mild misfire yet? I'm interested because my car seems to have a similar problem. Mine goes away after 15 minutes of driving (long after the water temp has reached normal), and is associated with a "pinging" sound - no, the pinging isn't preignition. Pulling the choke out a bit makes it more drivable during this period, but the "pinging" doesn't go away for the same 15 minutes. After 15 minutes, the engine runs perfectly. I'm leaning towards a vacuum leak on my car. My theory is that the "pinging" noise is the sound from one combustion chamber, and the leak cures itself as things expand into place.

Hi, Jason -- vacuum leak is one possibility, but where...? Heat-sensitive, could be one runner on the intake manifold, which could affect two cylinders. Which motor, what carb(s)? Have you checked the manifold-to-head joint for good seal? If you have soft-mounts (large o-rings) under the carb(s), that is a source of a one-side leak when the o-rings are old or the Thackery washers aren't set to a good working tension. One other possibility... the intake manifold (or air filter box) usually scavenges the crankcase blow-by gasses... and as the motor reaches operating temp and the oil thins out more it can generate more blow-by... just enough to tweak the mix. Whether blow-by is oil and/or water vapor, both can have enough effect to soften a slightly-too-lean burn. Mileage? Here's most of the note I sent to Jeff, with some additions:

In a message dated 1/10/00 2:06:10 AM Eastern Standard Time, jeffandtam@inficad.com writes: > Right now it misses mildly when it's not accelerating and running between 3,000 and 5,000 rpms. I've not found the problem yet.

Peter Blackford <pmbsab@naples.infi.net> Always check the obvious first - run it in the dark, & visually check to see if those new parts (wires...) are really better than the old ones... look for the telltale glow, etc. of electrons on the loose!

SJMARCY@aol.com Have you confirmed in-spec valve clearances? This can lead to all sorts of weird, variable symptoms.

"Tim Engel" <tengel@isd.net> When looking for potential air leaks, include the butterfly shaft journals. They tend to wear, get sloppy and leak air into the throat.

Tammy and Jeff <jeffandtam@inficad.com> My mild missing seems to have gone away. A day after returning to 92 octane gas. That's an obvious one if it's the real one, but I'm just glad it stopped. But also at the same time I had changed octane, I tightened an emissions hose and tweaked the idle mixture up.

From: rgvivace@aol.com In a message dated 02/29/2000 10:33:20 PM Eastern Standard Time, lotuseuropa@onelist.com writes: > Just for information sake.... What years was the R-16 imported and what
did it look like?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
The Renault 16 was a ground-breaking design, and European Car-of-the-Year at its introduction, principally for its unique packaging: a front drive hatchback with fold-down rear seating in a very upright and angular body. This was at a time when many small cars (apart from the Mini and Saab) still featured a rear-engine/rear-drive layout. The original years featured column stick shifting. What made its engine/transmission suitable for use in a mid-engine car was that, in front drive form, its transmission was in front of the engine, with the ancillaries above the transmission. One of the R16's least-mentioned features was its torsion bar front springing. Unlike a VW, Porsche or Saab 92, which had "over/under" bars, the R16 had longitudinally staggered bars. This resulted in one side's wheelbase being a couple of inches longer than the other! In the French manner, the R16 offered a very compliant ride, with armchair-soft seats. I test drove one when they first came to the US and remembered its steering as being very heavy and low-geared. It also had a vinyl-ly new-car smell unique to French imports like the Renault and Simca.

pboedker@image.dk> Thought I had A pic of a R16 lying around, but found instead this link:
http://www.users.wineasy.se/katriina/ Look in the Gallery in the range 1947-1997 and find the requested Renault cars there.

"Matthew Bowden" <matthew_bowden@msn.com.au> Also, if you are interested in Renault 15/17's, check out:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9730/Reg/main.html

John Pels <pelsfam@ev1.net> The R16TS, not available in the States was only a mild upgrade from the standard R16 (available 1965-1972). It sported a compression ratio of 8.6 to1 and 87.5 HP, torque of 90ft.lbs. of course with the cross-flow head. The R17 imported to the States from 1972-1979 I believe is the only interesting 807 series engine of interest. The injected version with 10.25 to 1 compression made I believe 115 HP. Following that model at least in the States was the Fuego which in its final iteration I believe had grown to 2.2liters and as the Turbo-Fuego I believe had about 140 HP. This is an interesting prospect as it does away with carbueration and points and uses Bosch L-Jetronic Injection, a system popular in the mid 80's, widely copied (licensed) by the Japanese. These cars sometimes still show-up in junkyards, but be advised that you should hear it run before buying. The weak link in 807, 821 and 843 engines is cam oiling. Under most circumstances the system is bulletproof. However if oil and filter are not changed regularly and trash gets onto the cam journals which are integral with the aluminum block you've bought 150 lbs of junk. At least pull the head and inspect this area before buying. Other than that the engine is infinitely rebuildable. As some of you know, my solution for a better powerplant for the S2 Europa is a conversion I am working on using the Toyota 4AGE 16v injected motor. Many aftermarket parts are available, HP to 250 in Formula Atlantic trim, and they last virtually forever. If its not going to be original it may as well be fast and reliable with a decent engine management system.

Jeff Hovis <jeffh@biowhittaker.com> r_goodburn@yahoo.com wrote: Subject: [lotuseuropa] Renault 16TX
> I neeed some advice. I have just heard of a Renault 16TX for sale, 1978, 58000 miles. Is it worth buying for the engine/transaxle? Is there any difference in the fitting of the 16TX unit? If not, it looks like a cool deal. Just lift out the old, drop in the new. If there is/are differences, its not worth all the hassle?

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: [lotuseuropa] Europa Update Date: Mon, 07 Jun 1999 21:38:51 -0700
I would not recommend you send the head to anyone except a shop that does these things on a regular basis. Ask me, I just had mine done by what I thought was a "qualified" man. It took 6 months, and I had to redo the cam buckets after. Send it out.. Ask Ray at R&D or Don Tingle at Tingle Lotus..... you will be money ahead in the end.... The block, however, and pistons, etc. can be done locally. It should be done, however, by a british mechanic as the tolerences are tighter than on some american iron. The headlight problem can be traced to a bad ground, very common in all brands of cars. The "MOST" you can bore a TC block is .040 inch. Do not try to go further, overheating and distortion will result!!! You can sleeve the cylinders, however, but make sure you purchase the right sleeves and have them installed by a competent shop. Don't get the "cheap" sleeves most shops offer. Get them from a reputable Lotus dealer and have the machine shop install them per the instructions with the sleeves. That way, when it comes time to replace the sleeves, you can pop the old out and in with the new. Also, when doing sleeves, skim alittle from the head surface to make sure things are flat. Check the rod bores. Mine were out on one rod. It really makes a difference in oil pressure!!

Fjcoop@aol.com Subject: Re: Europa Engine Removal Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1999 12:27:55 EST In a message dated 99-03-31 09:55:05 EST, whs018@conrad.appstate.edu writes: > What's the best/easiest way to remove the engine?

"Mark MarKell" <Type46@micro-engineering.com> Here's the photo referred to below. http://www.micro-engineering.com/S1enginepull.jpg Sorry if the one is hard to see. Too much low contrast.

"Matthew Bowden" <matthew_bowden@msn.com.au> Aaron wrote: +>From what I saw in your pictures, you just unbolt the bell housing and engine mounts and go up, correct? Seems as easy as dropping out the bottom except you have to unbolt the transaxle/clutch housing or either take out the brace. BTW, you don't have to remove the brace holding the shocks to get it out the top do you?

"Michael R. Downs" <mrdowns@worldnet.att.net> Hi, I've been following this thread for awhile and just have to put my 2 cents in. I bought my first Europa (a 72 Twin Cam) as a basket case with the engine disassembled, all of the brakes stuck, and many electrical problems. I was able to get the car on the road fairly quickly (about 6 months) but still had a list of problems to sort out as I drove it around. It took about 4 years and more money than I want to know about to get the car completely sorted. A Lotus project car is not for the faint of heart. That said, a Lotus project such as a Europa is a fairly simple car to work on. Everything is fairly straight forward (except for the twink water pump) and easy to get to and understand how it all works and goes together. I would highly recommend the Twin Cam book by Miles Wilkins if you plan to go through the TC. I recently went through a TC for my Elan and believe that I spent somewhere around $3k for all of the head work, machine work on the block, and new parts. I had a local machine shop do the head work the first time on my Europa and was never satisfied with the performance. Since then, I have sent the Europa head and the Elan head out to JAE and let them get the head work done with very good results. On my Europa, I took the engine and transaxle out the top of the car the first time and then out the bottom 2 other times. Taking the engine and transaxle out the bottom is much easier!! I have a small roll around moving cart that I put under the engine and then lower the car down onto the cart. I disconnect the motor mounts, rear suspension, and transaxle mounts and then raise the rear of the car up with a chain hoist and roll out the engine and transaxle. I have done this by myself in my garage with no problems. A well sorted Europa is a very fun car to drive. You will enjoy the car once that you have it completed but it will take a large commitment from you to get there. Good Luck!!

"Mark MarKell" <Type46@micro-engineering.com> Subject: Dad Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 11:04:12 -0700
Yes, the cross brace needs to be removed, but that's really pretty simple. There's a number of wires, linkage and other bits to release first and once supported it is easiest if at least one motor mount is entirely removed from both the support and the motor. Some folks have removed transaxles separately, but my experience says to take both at once. In my shop I built a 2' x 4' table about 18 inches high (completely free standing so I can drag it around) and use it for all my motor work (up to the point I need to rotate to the oil pan at which time I use an engine stand). This table allows me full access around the entire engine and transaxle as a unit. Makes things much easier at assembly time. If you're going to pull the engine and transaxle borrow a clutch alignment tool (request it on the mailing list) as it will really make re-assembly much easier. I have a tool
I'd gladly send, but it's for the Renault engine. Check with Jerry Rude. The tool is inexpensive, usually plastic, and the usual problem is just finding the correct part number for your local part supplier. Someone on the list may be able to supply that number.

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Subject: Twink E(U)ropa removal Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 22:47:42 -0700
The engine is really fairly easy once you get the knack. I just pulled mine Saturday in about 4 hours, and that was taking my time. This is the sequence IIRC:

Warren Pearce <pearceww@rmi.net> Subject: Re: Twink Rebuild--Help Needed Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 20:09:54 –0600 On several occasions (including now for a new water pump/block rebuild that should be completed in a week or 2) you can drop the engine - gearbox out the bottom of the car. As I remember, there are the basic steps:

It's been a long time since I put my TC together, but I don't think the jack shaft plays any part in the timing sequence of the engine, so I don't think it matters what the orientation is. In the cross-flow/non cross-flow, it did matter. As long as you reinstalling the head, you may also want to consider degreeing the cams since they are probably off from the factory. From what I hear, this can net you some increased power. The usual sources sell offset cam dowels specifically for this reason. There is an article on the GGLC web site (http://www.best.com/~gglotus/ggtech/index.htm#Twincam called "Dialing in Cams" that runs through this procedure. The dowel pin kits also come with instructions.

ClassMaker@aol.com, Subject: Re: Europa Exhaust Tuning notes (U), Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 10:02:18 EST
Andy wrote about Colin Campbell's data, > What wonderful information (from Campbell's book)! Just to be sure, the lengths that you give for exhaust end at the muffler, right?

Mark Hollingsworth <markh@olympus.net>, Re: Europa Exhaust Tuning notes (U), Tue, 2 Mar 1999 08:21:05 –0800 ClassMaker@aol.com >BTW, I noticed Campell's book was revised in 1969 >and reprinted in 1970 -- exactly the same vintage as >my Europa (built in 1969, sold in 1970 model year).

Tammy and Jeff <jeffandtam@inficad.com> Subject: Jerry Rein, I have your Europa timing info Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2000 11:39:49 –0700 No one I've seen has publicly answered your timing questions from last Monday, so, armed with the wisdom of the ages passed to me from our gracious lister benefactors, here's my 2 bits: (Static timing does mean with engine off.)

I did it myself. http://www.goodnet.com/~jrmsn/lotuspics/advance.jpg My friends told me if screwed up, they'd re- weld material back on it. Basically, this is the part that advances due to the weights flying out within increasing rpm. The hook looking part that is pointing back at us in this view of it, needs to ground off. On mine the stock 14 degree of advance meant this hook cleared the stop post by .150 inch. Do the math: that's about .0107 inch per degree. 11 more degrees would be 11 times .0107; .118 inch to be ground off. I hope this answers your question. Marc rc car person http://www.goodnet.com/~jrmsn 74 TC Spl

From: Kiyoshi Hamai <khamai@tsoft.com> Subject: Re: HELP - Need twink advice Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 20:39:43 –0700 In-Reply-To: <0FDF002KDV8QVU@mail.hac.com> As Dr. Rod has diagnosed the valve clearanced on a fresh twink do settle in after 300-500 miles. It's common to see 1-2 thou reduction. When check valve clearances do:

dan.morrison@autodesk.com Chris Munson and Mark Markell found some at the Detroit Diesel dealer. Emails below. It never fails to amaze me that access to the people on this list have such a diverse knowledge that someone can almost always come up with simple solutions to finding parts for 30 year old designs. Who would've thought of going to Detroit Diesel for Europa parts??! Went in to the Pacific Detroit Diesel office in Portland and picked up all the shims I needed. My Lotus sources were quoting $1.25/shim, these were $.24/shim, in stock. They are indistinguishable from the shims that came out of the car, except they're a lot shinier! 8<)))One correction however, the original list had the same number twice. See the correction below.

Chris Munson wrote: The shims used for adjusting the blowers for Detroit Diesels ( inline 71 ) are of the required dimensions, come in .002" to .010" packs and work fine. They are readily available from Detroit Diesel parts counters. Try these part numbers with them. They should be current, but if not they should be able to reference them from these ones.

ClassMaker@aol.com, Subject: Re: Europa Exhaust Tuning notes (U), Date: Sun, 28 Feb 1999 01:24:37 EST
Paul wrote: I will use a custom header and straight pipe exhaust in place of the cast iron manifold/muffler.

Steve Shipley <shiples@home.com> Subject: Re: Europa Engine Removal Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1999 07:01:03 –0800 There's a procedure in the shop manual. Tell me you have a shop manual! You do have the shop manual, right? Have you considered a SuperTrap for a muffler? They're tunable I understand. While tuning for performance, you might find an exhaust note you enjoy.

Mark Hollingsworth <markh@olympus.net> I have a carbon fibre muffler on my Europa. I haven't driven it enough to say it if will be too loud, but it sure sounds nice and weighs very little. It is from a Ducati.

sjmarcy@aol.com In a message dated 3/2/00 2:57:10 PM Eastern Standard Time, jeffh@biowhittaker.com writes: If anyone else on the list has a comment about Supertrapp, please speak. However, I must preface this by saying that the Gordini header is longer than the R16 header was and my Turbo muffler doesn't fit. Also, I tried a Walker Muffler that was a little too long to work with as well. >>

Some years back Hot Rod magazine did a muffler group test. They plotted torqe and Horsepower along with some dB readings for 10-15 different mufflers. Supertrapp was the least efficient, although it is adjustable. You can't get quiet without lots of restriction. The best ouput (but loud) was a Borla XR-1 I think. The most efficient muffling came from large format reverse flow designs. Having read the above at the time I went out and bought a Supertrapp. A 3 inch in / out 5 inch body stainless unit. I set it up as the tail pipe on a dual-purpose car. That way, at the track or at some but not all autocrosses I could remove ALL of the end plates so as to have effectively zero muffling and restriction from the S-T. A muffler and cat further upstream of the S-T provided enough mufling to meet local regs. Then for the street it could be made quiet albeit with some output loss but still just fine. One time at Lime Rock I was black flagged for noise at a club event. It was nice to slap on about 15-20 plates and yet lose only about 5 minutes of practice time. For a 'ropa I wouldn't suggest using one as the only muffler if you want the
car to be quiet and fast at the same time. A light stainless reverse flow deal might work well. Or for cheap a generic reverse flow of mild steel. If you really want to max things out you need to tune the carb or injection to suit the exhaust if you change things around muffler wise. Usually with lower restriction you tend to lean things out if you don't retune.. Backpressure follows the torqe curve since this follows the air flow curve. That is restriction is not necessarily highest at peak HP. You can test back pressure fairly well with a fuel pressure gage.

Kevin Swart <kgs113@mail.a-znet.com> I installed a flowmaster on my 843 with just a stock manifold. Had to cut one corner of the muffler to fit around the chassis. LOUD. No back pressure and you could feel the exhaust pulses from 10 feet behind the car. Only drove the car 6 miles before parking for the winter then the garage fell on it so I haven't had it near a Db meter yet.
FASTNERS, Nuts & bolts

ClassMaker@aol.com scott@fortner.com writes: Also, where can one find brass metric nuts? I'd like to use them on the mainifold. The local auto shops have brass only in std. And the hardware stores are useless for metric stuff. The local marine supply doesn't have much of anything unless it is coarse thread std. I hate to mail order for 8 !@#%^ nuts.

www.mdmetric.com

Lee Sacks is there (ex Motorsport East). Lee kept his Weber license, and supplies all things Weber. They also have drawings and a license to manufacture new jets, etc. They have all kinds of metric hardware. ...plus: Whitworth fasteners and tools.

I have a carbon fibre Ducati muffler on my Europa. It is incredibly light but noisy. While I'm using it daily now, it is not very fun for longer trips. I got it used with a bit of damage on one section- but it doesn't affect how it works. If you like, I can ask around on the motorcycles lists I"m on. Markh@olympus.net

farberjf@us.ibm.com I started the thread. I am keeping a list. I have been in conversation w/ Bean about aluminum flywheels for Renault powered Europas. This will fit a stock street clutch. If we can get 10 guys (approx) he will produce them inhouse. The cost will be $498 US. Saying yes means you want to put down a $250 deposit now. Flywheels to be delivered in approx 30 days.

ClassMaker@aol.com whs018@conrad.appstate.edu writes: BTW, what kind of flow rate do I need for an electrical pump?

Harry <traff@ICON.HMSD.UFL.EDU> Subject: RE: Europa Update Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 17:02:14 -0400
1) There is a rubber piece that splits the fuel flow into the carbs. It was cracked, so we tried to find a replacement. No one has anything that will come close to working. Where can I get one of these at?

Ken Landaiche <ken.landaiche@dlcc.com> RE: Europa JPS is Special (U) Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 13:32:37 –0800 How did Lotus make the compression ratio change? Was the federal head thicker than the ROW head? (What an interesting question.) And would it be worth increasing the compression on my stock 1974 Europa Twin Cam?

BTW, I read an interesting article in one of the car mags. It argued that the USA 93 octane wasn't much different from the European 98 octane because each region uses different methods for measuring octane, R+M/2 in the USA and M in Europe, if I remember correctly. The difference in octane between the two regions, if using the same scale, is around one point, 93 to 94 octane. IF that is true, then would increasing the TC compression run into any problems?

Ron Dawson <dawsonr@oasys.dt.navy.mil> Subject: Europa TC Fuel Injection Date: Fri, 30 Jul 99 07:17:07 EDT
A fuel injection kit for the Stromberg Twin Cam is being sold by QUORN ENGINE DEVELOPMENTS, http://www.qednet.demon.co.uk/.

Jeff wrote: >So now I've got to find new injectors for a Bosch L-jet system from a Fuego or throw that stuff away and buy a manifold and carbs. Go to: http://www.carparts.com/index.asp Select a 1981 Renault 18i, then fuel systems, then fuel injection parts. They show two different injectors - Carter and Delco - available for L-Jetronic injection. Jay "hope this helps" Mitchell

Here's another link: http://www.cskauto.com/ They show both new and remanufactured injectors. Jay

Lorne Mason <l.mason@dial.pipex.com> Subject: Re: Leaded petrol & Water injection Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 11:31:47 Additives to replace the lead will be available soon: Zero Lead 2000, Red Line, Millers VSP Plus and Valvemaster. All 900 series engines will run on Super unleaded. Twincams and Renaults won't. (Source - Club Lotus' Technical Adviser).

ClassMaker@aol.com OTOH, I believe the R16's do run OK on Super. They have aluminum heads. The seats are steel. I buy BP "Super Unleaded" here in the US. (93 pump octane, average of RON & MON) I've used other 93's, Texaco, QT, Chevron. I run a Federal 907 (but Dellortos) and a high compression (11:1) R16 Europa motor which also has a 3/4 cam (288 degrees) and a Weber 45DCOE. Perhaps overlap is helping, but I've never had any knock. The timing is *not* retarded on either car. They run at least 45 degrees full advance. Idle "CO" readings are 3.5 to 4.5 % and I set them up around 1100 rpm. ...and I drive the snot out of both of them!!!

"Jay Mitchell" <jemitchell@compuserve.com> The superstition wrt unleaded gas and valve seat wear never ceases to amaze me. ANY engine that is equipped with hardened steel insert valve seats - i.e., almost every engine with an aluminum alloy cylinder head - can run unleaded fuel with no ill effect. The effects of running unleaded fuel are actually very positive: Since the engine oil is not being contaminated with combustion byproducts specifically caused by lead, the oil won't degrade nearly as much or as rapidly. Additionally, all major brands of modern unleaded gasoline have very effective additives for preventing carbon buildup. Your engine will stay much cleaner and wear less as a result of use of modern fuel.

ClassMaker@aol.com Plus -- the plug cones don't glaze over like they used to with lead!

Marvin Wong <marvinw@proaxis.com> Subject: Re: Leaded petrol & Water injection Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 21:02:51 –0700 The US changed to strictly unleaded a long time ago and besides the octane of the available fuel getting less, there was an issue for older engines without hardened valves & seats. The lead provides some lubrication for these. Unleaded will decrease their life, at least that's what we were told on this side of the pond in the '70s.

bobm@ttseagle.com Subject: Re: Unleaded juice in a twink Date: Mon, 2 Aug 1999 13:25:49 -0600
I've had two good old TC engines (one Europa, one early Elan), and both ran for years in my typical use: aggressive driving when permissible, city driving when it couldn't be avoided, and screaming around the traffic cones at race events and solo contests. Both were run on unleaded premium with absolutely no additives whatever -- no octane improver, no lead "substitute", no lead -- and have experienced no valve seat problems at all. Latter-60s metallurgy pretty much obviated the problem that earlier cars had with unleaded fuels. However, pre-regulation, Amoco sold unleaded gasoline in the US and there was no swell of engine problems back then. In the TC engine, there is more problem with valve guide wear and valve tip seal leakage from normal aging than there is with valve seat problems from unleaded fuel, at least in my two-time experience.

From: farberjf@us.ibm.com I have run on 92 octane unleaded for years. One of my cars has a 10.75 / 1 CR. We did a bunch of tests on a rolling road dyno. The conclusion was that if you want to avoid detonation limit advance to 31 degrees max. I dont run octane boosters.

"Mark MarKell" <Type46@micro-engineering.com> 'Don't get in too big a hurry now. It will save you lots of time and money later. On the fuel pump blanking plate, you can leave the old pump in to fill the hole till you do have time to build one or buy one. Just disconnect your plumbing and stick vacuum caps over the ports. If it's entirely shot it won't try to pump air anywhere, and it will rob a miniscule amount of power from the cam. I'd recommend the Facet pump as well. Have never heard anything bad about it. Whatever electric pump you get, be careful where you wire it in. The wrong place will kill the tach operation. If it fits... an easy replacement: a nice quality *brass* tee, some rubber fuel hose, some "Ideal" brand hose clamps (you can find those at some of the auto-parts stores) -- I like the quality and finish (and slotted hex head screw) of the Ideal brand clamps -- better than the look-alikes. Renew rubber fuel hoses every two or three years for safety.

ClassMaker@aol.com gmfmo@mweb.co.za writes: I have also found an original petrol pump which has 3 connections as shown in the w/s manual. One goes back to the tank sender unit. What is it for?

From: Mark Reichert <markr@lightlink.com> >There's nothing magic about those pumps unless they're the type that sit in the tank. I don't think yours does. Find a Rabbit or similar production car of roughly the same year and displacement and you'll probably find a good pump. When my 914 pump died, also an L-Jetronic, I replaced it with one from a VW. Has to be from another FI car however, as the fuel pressures are considerably higher...
Weren't the old VW systems K-Jet based? I seem to recall that these ran even higher pressures than L-Jet. I would probably avoid trying to run a K-Jet pump in an L-Jet system. I don't know what the L-Jet regulator would do if it were presented with fuel pressure that far out of spec. Any L-Jet pump should be fine.
>... and there is a path for re-circulating unused fuel to kill vapor lock and to cool the pump.
Definitely. The unused fuel must go back to the tank.

From: Jay Mitchell <jemitchell@compuserve.com> jeffh@biowhittaker.com wrote: Today, I went to the shop and
> looked at the Bosch manual. The pump pressure is 36psi +/- 3.
You need to make sure you use a D-jet or K-jet pump. The K-jet (CIS) pumps put out closer to 60 psi.
> Will any in-line Bosch fuel pump work?
See above. Cars that came with D-jet or K-jet from that era include VW Variants (Squareback/Fastback), VW Beetles 75-79, Porsche 914 (VW 911/912 engine), Volvo 140 series (optional in '72, standard 73 on), and some BMWs (3.0si, 3.0CSi). The Parts Place for VWs (248-373-2300) shows a recycled fuel pump, 75-79 Beetle, for $100.00, rebuilt for $150.00, and a new one for $199.95. I'll bet you won't find one for much less.
> and does anyone have any suggestions for returning the fuel to the tank?
Run a rubber fuel line from the bleed output of the fuel pressure regulator to the return line that's part of your fuel sender assembly.

From: Mark Reichert <markr@lightlink.com> He's putting in an L-Jet system from another Renault. He should use an L-Jet pump. L-Jet runs at 2.5 bar. The D or K Jet systems will be far enough out of spec that his L-Jet regulator probably won't be able to compensate. The K-Jet systems run at a high enough pressure that it might cause a spectacular failure in an L-Jet system. That is, if his tank has a fitting for a return line - mine didn't
(dpo?), and if the fitting is large enough to handle the flow without causing a restriction which could increase the pressure back at the injectors. Of course, he should make sure to use a fuel line that is rated for fuel injection pressures.

From: Jay Mitchell <jemitchell@compuserve.com> To sum up: a K-jetronic fuel pump - more commonly referred to as CIS –is NOT suitable. The fuel pump from any fully electronic Bosch EFI system - D or L - WILL provide the correct pressure range, with the final system pressure determined by the regulator.

In a message dated 00-05-10 18:08:34 EDT, jrowan@ix.netcom.com writes: > My fuel pump is mounted at about midway up the height of the tank, on the rear wheel arch, just by the swirl pot. It works fine, and has never
needed priming.

If you look at my website, you can see where I mounted the low pressure Facet type pump (just next to the fuel tank, on the left). A dial type fuel pressure regulator is just out of sight below the Webers. I wired it using a relay. It does not interfere with the tach. If you're interested, I can go to the garage and check exactly how I did it. These Facet type pumps are now marketed by Purolator, or some biggie like that. You can buy them at Advance Auto Parts, maybe other auto supermarkets. Summit Auto sells a nice fuel pressure gauge. I may get one of those. I also plan to do an inertia cutoff switch sometime. Just in case you get into an accident. So that the pump does not continue to pump gas while your car is about to burst into flames. This has been a mandated safety feature on new cars for at least 15 years. You can also wire in a low oil pressure switch that will kill the juice to the pump. This is mostly for racing applications, or when you BLOW your motor. OR if you loose the line to your oil cooler. So that your engine does not continue to run on low oil pressure. This switch takes a little more thought and planning to wire in, because you will need to make the pump hot when you crank the motor (zero oil ressure). But easily doable. At least one lister thought that the Facet type pump "sucked". But hey, they are like MacDonald's hamburgers. A trillion-billion sold, but only a few heart attacks. But really, I wish I could have just kept the MECHANICAL fuel pump. VERY EARLY Gordini engines used a cam with a drive for the mechanical pump, just like the R16. JEFF HOVIS: Since you are now using the R16 cam reground for your Gordini, you now have the opportunity to use a mechanical pump. Or at least, bolt on the mechanical pump. So that it is there if needed as a backup. Paul http://home.sprintmail.com/~paulzielinski S2 Europa-Gordini

Some of you asked how I wired my electric fuel pump. I took the white lead off the alternator relay. The tach will not be affected by doing this. By the way, last summer I learned that the black ground of this alternator relay must be good. A poor ground here was the cause of my 28 year annoying ammeter bounce when no load was on the system. After looking at my website and the picture of the Gordini engine, some guys asked what were the unidentifiable bits. The rectangular box to the left, close to the tank, was part of the stock emission system. It functioned as the fuel tank overflow reservoir. And it still does. And I think it looks good to safety inspectors (although my guys don't care). But I may remove it someday and replace it with something smaller. I have removed the cylindrical carbon vapor canistor. If you look carefully, below the Weber air cleaners, you will see the battery. I moved the battery to the bottom of the car, just in front of the wheel. The stock setup had the battery on the upper ledge, just below where the Weber cleaners are now. But the battery would not fit with the Webers in place. Thanks to other Lotus Europa listers who suggested that I move it to its present location. And I really DO believe that I sense improved handing. I mean, I moved a 30 lb object 12 inches closer to the road. And I have a small battery. Your battery may weigh 43 lbs. And these boards adds regidity and strength to the suggested, factory jacking position. First, I glassed in a 1 inch pine board (weather treated). Then, I screwed another board (or two, don't remember, weather treated) on top of the glassed in board. Then, I screwed a plastic marine battery holder in place. So everything can be removed, except the first glassed in board. And the battery lives there. COVERING the battery, is the bottom of a rubber office waste bucket. This protects the battery, so that if you drop metal tools on top of the battery, the anode and cathode cannot become continous. A hole in cut in covering is for proper ventilation. Paul http://home.sprintmail.com/~paulzielinski S2 Europa-Gordini FAX 718-887-1398

Jon Lexau <Jon.Lexau@Eng.Sun.COM> Don't know if this has been mentioned before, but I found another Whitworth bolt on my Europa last night. The drain plug for the gas tanks is a perfect 5/16 BS or 1/4 W, according to my socket set.

Mark Reichert <markr@lightlink.com> > Can anyone reccommend a gas tank cleaner/etcher/sealer that > works good?

My experience is that the stuff by Kreem is not so good. The POR-15 brand seems to be working well. (www.por15.com). You might also be able to find something good from Eastwood. Good luck, --Mark

>Mark Reichert <markr@lightlink.com> >> Can anyone reccommend a gas tank cleaner/etcher/sealer that works good? My experience is that the stuff by Kreem is not so good. Why? It is working OK for me. Or so I think. The POR-15 brand seems to be working well. (www.por15.com) I'd expect that. The paint is great. You might also be able to find something good from Eastwood.

Hmm. I thought they sold Kreem. Phil Ethier pethier@isd.net http://www.visi.com/mac/

Scott Mitchell <scott@fortner.com> >Try Aircraft Spruce and Specialties. I think they have a web site, but I don't have the url handy. Not surprisingly it is: http://www.aircraft-spruce.com

zigglu@us.ibm.com Subject: RE: Gas tank cleaning Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 16:17:22 -0400
You can use heavy duty paint stripper to loosen up the gunk from the bottom and wash it off with water. Any loose rust can be knocked by putting a few bolts inside and shaking the tank vigorusly... You can order the Gas Tank Liner Coating from JC Whitney... see http://www.jcwhitneyusa.com/ for contact info. JC Whitney carries couple different kits: 1. Liquid Liner Kit with tank prep kit - part# 97-5714NF price: $26.95 (I never used this kit, the advertising does not state that it is alcohol resistive... you are on your own...) 2. Gas Tank Sealer (alcohol resistive) - part# 12-8316Y price: $22.92 (I always use this one and I am happy with the results. One container is large enough to coat both tanks with at least two coats....)

Also check out http://www.por15.com They have products for gas tank sealing (and rust preventive coatings for outside the tank). I have heard good things about on the coating (por15) but have no real info on the gas tank sealing stuff other than the catalog (which is online). davea@sgi.com

"Phil Ethier" <pethier@isd.net> A guy on the autox list just ran a lot of tests with some data-acquisition gear. He proved what I have suspected for a long time. SIFO (slow-in fast-out) works so much better than most people believe that over-braking into a corner and entering at too slow a speed costs you virtually nothing in lap times. Entering too fast, and thus botching the exit, always cost you big time. Lesson: Don't enter a corner too hot. Err on the side of caution on the entry. It won't hurt you nearly as badly as the alternative.

>My natural reaction is to add power to pull the tail around, but the more power I add, the worse the push.

Welcome to the Europa. If you want the tail to come around, lift the throttle.

>The end result is that I have to back off the power to stay on the course, and the transition between understeer and oversteer is quicker than the steering and my reflexes can manage!

Stay with it. Gentle inputs. Let the car dance. Don't force it.

>I am hoping that adding more toe end on the rear will help the transition be more manageable.

I'd recommend you stay real close to zero on the rear toe.

>I'm not sure what to do about the front push other than to be a little less aggressive.

The quick way to dive a Europa is to make VERY small movements with the wheel. Here's how: Brake straight and hard. Do this by squeezing on the brake, adding pressure as the front end loads and can take the braking. Do not slam on the brakes; the fronts will lock because you have not transferred any weight onto them. Release the brakes quickly. At that precise instant, turn in. The idea is that you turn the front wheels in the magic moment when the brakes are released and there is still weight on the front wheels. They are being pushed into the pavement by the front springs. Note: if your dampers are set too hard on rebound, this will not work, as the front tires will unweight instantly. Once you try this, you will realize that the Europa will turn in very quickly. This allows you to do most of the turning in a sharp radius in the first part of the corner. Now get on some power. This will catch the rear. Keep adding power as you unwind the steering. (With practice, you will see that the steering-wheel movements to do this are less than required to go around the same corner tracking). The car will move from oversteer to understeer. When the understeer get to be too much, stop adding power (don't lift, just stop adding) and continue to slowly unwind the steering. By the time you are out on the straight, you will be at full power and the wheel will be straight. It will become obvious to you that the only line that works with this is a late-apex. Compared to a central-apex line you:
Turn in later.
Turn sharper in the first part of the corner.
Add power before the apex.
Turn the car less as it goes faster.
When you get this right with a Europa, it is an exhilarating dance through the cones and provides you with a real jump on the straight.

>It is interesting to note that when I skidpad tested the car a while back, the limiting factor on my cornering speed was the above mentioned power on understeer. Does this sound right?

Yes. Off-throttle = oversteer. On-throttle = understeer. You can control which you get.

marc j <jrmsn@goodnet.com> I remember having cars that lift-throttle oversteered. I usaully found the differial was not working. If that is the problem, it would do it more on TC since weight distribution is more to back. The serinaro is: the front is light and the inside rear wheel can push the front; as the throttle lifted the understeer effect goes away, and turns into oversteer because you cannot keep up with the change and the front tires gain a lot of weight. And of course when you come back onto the throttle it saves the car for the very same reason it pushed in the first place. This is how a go-kart is driven, normal handling, also Sprint cars. Also, keep in mind that how much a differial slips is different under power than on the jack!

"Guthrie, Conrad" <cguthrie@velaw.com> Trailing throttle oversteer is a problem common to many vehicles, front, mid, or rear engined. The first time I lifted in the middle of a turn in a '66 Elan, I was 18 and stupid, and thought there was something wrong with the car because it came around at only 65 mph. When you lift, weight is transferred to the front, just like when you brake, the rear-end becomes very light and will come around in a heartbeat. The effect is even more pronounced in rear engined cars and is legendary in Porsches. Mark is very correct in that it is a very useful tool in performance driving. I've used it to defeat understeering in tight corners in an ITB VW Golf; just a quick lift to tweak out the rear and get the front pointed, then back on the power hard to pull out.

Jay Mitchell <jemitchell@compuserve.com> I've seen Minis do snap spins, as well as 911s. I've also seen a very poorly set-up road racing Civic that couldn't turn in without spinning. The problem isn't generally incurable, though. The physics are basic and well-understood here. Maybe I should have made a more of distinction between simple lift-throttle oversteer and a snap spin. In the former, the rear tires develop a greater slip angle than the front. This does not imply that the car slides, however. In a snap spin, all control is lost. Some cars will not snap spin when you lift the throttle. My E Stock 85 GTI was a perfect example. You could always tighten your line by lifting off the throttle in a turn. Making a well-setup A2 Golf spin when you lift requires a major mistake. M Making a Twink Europa spin, OTOH, is much easier. I can lift (more accurately, feather the throttle) in my S2 while cornering at the limit, and the car won't spin. It WILL turn in more tightly. I'm afraid that Tom can't presently do the same thing in his Twink without leaving the course arse-end first. You can improve some vehicular vices through judicious suspension setup. Ask Porsche.

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> > In a message dated 7/30/99 2:30:26 PM Eastern Daylight Time, ken.landaiche@nokia.com writes: So how does one remove a helicoil, grab the last coil and unwind it from the hole? >>

From: "Brian Martley" <Brian.Martley@tesco.net> I had to replace both hinges on my car - one was seized solid. I left both hinges soaking in Plus-Gas release fluid, and could undo the door collars in order to adjust the door, but couldn't get the hinge pin out through the sill. I had molegrips and even a stilson wrench trying to get some movement, and after a week I ended up cutting the pin above/below the door with a hacksaw blade. The other door - I tried once and when it wouldn't move went straight to cut it off. No body/door damage and off in a couple of hours. In view of these experiences I would recommend you replace using a stainless steel pin - it's standard bar stock. I recall someone also made a replacement pin kit which could be greased as well. I also modified the top section of the pin to accept a small plate to ensure that the pin cannot turn in the body bushes - when the body bushes wear although you can adjust the door it will rattle over bumpy roads.

From: Mark Hollingsworth <markh@olympus.net> The door pins on my Europa were seriously rusted. One I cut apart with a cutoff wheel on a die grinder. But the other one I did a different method that worked a lot better. First, I soaked them in Kroil well. Great stuff. Next I screwed in the proper bolt to the bottom of the hinge pin (5/16 ?) -- I used a nut on the end of a bolt, so that it would only go in an inch or so. The car jacked well up of course. Then I put an impact wrench onto the end of the bolt. This spun the hinge pin. (you may have to work it a bit with vise-grips or the like to break it loose). After spinning it for a bit, I could then hold a small wrench on the top side of the bolt head, and put downward pressure on the pin. It took a few times of going down, then up, but this pulled the pin out with minimal effort. The one I cut off was definately more work, but I really can't imagine doing it with a hacksaw, like many people have done. Nothing like a small cutoff wheel and a die grinder...

dsrgr@aol.com Just sharing a little info. Got the door into position and the rod installed. Had to tap it in. Looks like such a tight fit that I don't need a cotter key but have put one in anyway. With the door closed, I put a level on the door against the glass and jacked the car up. Front on jackstands and jack under the trans mount. I jacked
until the level was level. Then I opened the door, both adjusters were still loose. I propped the door on an ice chest and pieces of wood. I made it level again. Then I tightened the adjusters. The door fits when I close it.

From: Peter Blackford <pmbsab@naples.infi.net> Subject: Re: [lotuseuropa] AJC Article Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 07:30:52 –0500 Heck, I don't think the author will mind a "reprint", especially with credit & his book promo attached...
"Old Wheels: Lotus Europa not a hit despite original design"

From: ClassMaker@aol.com JERTIGGER2@cs.com writes: I am trying to track down the history of my 72 Europa TC 2224R. The only thing Lotus has in its archives is the car was sold to Lotus East. Is Lotus East still in existence, was it taken over by someone else?
Gone, but not forgotten. I've been there. Dutchess Auto, a/k/a Lotus East, Millerton, New York, just across
the western border of Connecticut. You might get some help from Frank at Sports Car World, Evant, Texas. He does have some *original* factory or distributor logbooks for "classic" Lotii. However, don't expect much else
from the records, other than build (completion) date, despatch (shipping) date, VIN, engine number, original color,
and options.

Jon Lexau <Jon.Lexau@Eng.Sun.COM> Subject: Re: Lumention installed & distributor problem Date: Thu, 01 Apr 1999 20:19:11 –0800 gdrude@pacbell.net said: > It sounds like a vaccum line leak, how did you cap the hose inlet, with a plastic/rubber cap? You might also screw down the distributor plate solid, so it won't rotate. This will prevent any bounce or such due to play in the plates pivot bushing.

gdrude@pacbell.net said: > PS. thank you for the update on the system. sounds like it wasn't too bad to install. Also, let us know of the tach solution. Mine has no visible loop to increase, must be inside the tach, but mine seems to work fine so yours will no doubt also.

Jerry Geil <jlgeil@qnet.com> Subject: Lotus Electronic Ignition Date: Fri, 02 Apr 1999 20:10:50 -0800
I have been reading with interest the letters about the Lumention ignition system and how listers have dealt with the installation. When I planned to install an electronic ignition in my Europa, I asked the List for advice. Another Lister recommended the Pertronix "Ignitor". I checked out their website and called Pertronix. It turns out that they supply the device to JAE and JAE retails it for $99. Many thanks to the Lister who recommended it. I put it in last Sunday. The car started quicker, idled smoother and accelerated quicker. Installation was a breeze once I got the distributor off. The could have been better, but JAE was very helpful. The "Ignitor" mounts right on the base for the points. Two leads come out and hook to the coil. No other module to mount. You have to look twice to determine it is not stock. Just start it and time it like usual. If any other listers are thinking about an electronic ignition, you should check this one out.

"Michael Lye" <mlye@risd.edu> Subject: Re: Lotus Electronic Ignition Date: Sat, 03 Apr 1999 07:52:37 -0500
I have the Ignitor on my Europa too. I like it a lot but be aware that there have been problems with the ring (fits on the end of the distributor shaft) that holds the magnets that trigger it. This came apart while I was drivng leaving me stranded one of the few times ever! It wasn't actually very hard to fix but of course it happened late at night so it was hard to figure out what happened. The first two replacements I got had the magnets installed incorrectly, but once I figured that out I reglued them in correctly and have been fine ever since. This was a couple of years ago now and the problems may well have been solved by Pertronix. I still carry a spare with me, though, just in case my glue job fails.

ElanS4 <elans4@erols.com> Subject: Re: Lotus Electronic Ignition Date: Sat, 03 Apr 1999 09:46:59 –0500

Jay Mitchell <jemitchell@compuserve.com> Subject: Pertronix Ignitor "magnet tricks?" Date: Sun, 04 Apr 1999 11:02:00 –0700 Ken inquires: >I've bought the ignitor for my Europa S2 (Ducellier distributor). Presuming the same problem may appear in the magnet dohickey, what should I inspect for?

"Mark MarKell" <Type46@micro-engineering.com> Subject: Luminition and Tachometers Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 12:08:32 –0700 For those of you who have been having Tachometer problems with an aftermarket ignition system, the following is text from Denaploy, the manufacturer of Luminition. I was directed there by a Luminition person after enquiring about a Tachometer problem observed in Jon Lexaus S2 Europa and observing the tach line with an oscilloscope. Further details and a drawing not include here are on their website under 'Faqs' at http://www.denaploy.co.uk/autocar

Jon Lexau <Jon.Lexau@Eng.Sun.COM> Subject: Re: Ignitor? Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 10:46:58 -0700
ken.landaiche@dlcc.com said: Isn't the Ignitor the one with which several people have had tachometer problems? And has anyone definitively solved the twitchy tach problem? It's the last issue keeping me from getting one. Well, that and the time to install it!

ElanS4 <elans4@erols.com> Subject: Re: Ignitor? Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 18:20:52 –0400 I recently had a discussion with Jeff at JAE about tachs. I was actually calling him to find out if he had any spare tachs for sale so that I could send it out to be converted for electronic ignition. Jeff talked me out of it. It's been his experience that if you already have a bad or marginal tach, it will bounce around with the Ignitor. If you have a good or recently rebuilt tach, it should work just fine.

"Mark MarKell" <Type46@micro-engineering.com> Posting to the Europa list. Probably of general interest. If you have electronic ignition and a current operated tach you've got serious problems with accuracy. Jon Lexau and I are looking at that problem now and looking for a reasonable solution. There will not be any way to fix this with more or less loops, so don't go there yet. The best present solution as recommended by the makers of the Lumenition is to exchange the current operated tach for the later model voltage sensing style. That is also my recommendation for now. The distributors, both Bean and JAE seem to be glossing over this problem, but trust me, there isn't any other good solution presently that will work over anything but a short range. The problem stems from the fact that the current operated tach (standard Europa tach) was designed to operate on clean pulses with rapid rising and falling edges. The tach reading is basically an integral over time of the energy under this pulse and is relatively linear with respect to pulses per second as RPM rises. The electronic ignitions however do not generate a 'square' pulse, but rather a pulse with a rapid leading edge and a trailing edge that tapers off with a much longer slope. The area under the curve is no longer the same. To make matters worse, the trailing edge extends almost to the next pulse at idle, and at higher RPM is truncated by the following pulse in a non-linear relationship, so a simple change of the loop will not compensate over the entire operating range correctly. I'd recommend you spend your time elsewhere for awhile and see if we can come up with a reasonable cure. Presently you can either find and buy a later version $$$ or have it 'converted' which is even more $$$$$$. Putting some type of filter or wave-shaping circuit in the main line will adversely affect the ignition system and shouldn't be done.

zigglu@us.ibm.com Subject: Europa Plugwires Date: Sun, 4 Apr 1999 23:24:55 –0400 >Now for a question: are there any plug wires that are better than the >originals? I am thinking about silicone wires from Crane, but I don't know what wires are best.

Try MAGNECOR wires. They are one of the best, better than Crane and Jacobs. Check more details on:
http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/overview.htm and http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/frequent.htm

"Jay Mitchell" <jemitchell@compuserve.com> Scott wrote:
So check me here... OK.
The static advance for a Renault Europa is 4 degrees on the crank. Keerect.
The centrifugal advance kicks in around 900 rpm and peaks at 3000. Yep, but those are DISTRIBUTOR rpm. Double those figures for crankshaft rpm. I seem to remember the upper distributor rpm figure specified by Lotus as something less than 3000, but I don't have the shop manual with me here at work.
It goes from 7.8 to 18 degrees of distributor advance across that range. 1 degree of distributor advance is 2 degrees on the crank... right? So, in stock configuration, my tests should show 20 degrees advance at 1000
rpm and 40 degrees at 3000+ rpm? No. You should see only static at 1000 rpm (500 distributor rpm), i.e. 4 degrees; static + (7.8*2)=~ 20 degrees at 1800 rpm; and static + (18*2)= 40 degrees at 6000 rpm. That's with the vacuum advance disconnected.
Also a friend gave me an old Sears 'Ignition Analizer' that measures rpm, dwell, etc. Unfortunatly he didn't have a manual for it. And I can't get one from Sears. Anyway I hooked it across the two coil connections... it seemed to work if inaccurately (the tach read under 1000 and it read >around 1500... yes it was set for a 4 cyl). The dwell was reading under 50 degrees, but the manual says it should be 61 +/-3 degrees. If the dwell reading is correct, your point gap is too wide. It's easy to do that. When I set points, I won't get the correct dwell unless I set them so that I feel a slight resistance when I move the feeler gauge between the point surfaces.

"Tim Engel" <tengel@isd.net> 08 Jan 00, John D. Abbott <jdaarch@arn.net> wrote: >Hello Everybody, Does anyone have the address / telephone >for Nissonger (sp?) Instruments?

I haven't tried these addresses in a long time, but they used to be:

Nisonger Corp.
35 Bartels Place
New Rochelle, NY 10801

and

5220 W Jefferson Blvd
Los Angeles, Ca 90016

Mike Causer <mikec@mikecauser.org> Subject: Re: Talking about speedos... Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 15:11:43 +0100
References: <199906231233.FAA09736@lists1.best.com> David Salvador Flores wrote: Anyone know how difficult it is to calibrate these things? Like many on this list my '86 Esprit's spedo. reads about 10mph faster than I'm really going at 60mph (says I'm doing 70).

"Mark MarKell" <Type46@micro-engineering.com> Subject: Re: Talking about speedos... Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 09:12:38 –0700 Before you take the needle off the shaft be aware that there is usually an adjustment point available on the small helical spring to that returns the needle to zero. Removing the needle or faceplate is generally not required for service and can be difficult to get back where it's supposed to be later.

"Mark MarKell" <Type46@micro-engineering.com> What would cause the tach on my Seven to read 20 percent high (as compared to a dwell meter)? It is a Smith's tach of the current type and I do not have electronic ignition.

Have you added any electrical appliance such as an electric fuel pump, amplifier, stereo or other item to the Ignition wiring such that the appliance only comes on when the ignition is switched on? The tach is current-operated, so adding loads will increase the average current the tach sees if these loads are added 'downstream' of the tach which will make it read high. A previous lister had added a fuel pump and as engine revs went up and corresponding fuel demand went up the tach would get erratic. The solution is simply to change where the new appliance is hooked onto the same circuit.

"Phil Ethier" <pethier@isd.net> From: John D. Abbott <jdaarch@arn.net> My tach, although accurate up to 3500 rpm, is not after that. >

Here is something I wrote in 1993 which may help:
==================
...took the tach (you recall it reads 8000 RPM all the time) out to the instrument place.

APT Speedometer Specialists
9632 Humboldt Avenue So
Bloomington, MN 55431
(612) 881-7095

This place is amazing. A house and garage in an area that is generally generic industrial park. The garage is really a shop. There are disassembled instruments everywhere. The owner is a young guy who (all my friends will find this hard to believe) can out-talk me by a ratio of about five to one. I have a habit, when showing the Lotus project to anyone, of giving them the five dollar tour. This guy surpassed my finest efforts. He showed me dozens of projects. The two most unusual: A 191? Studebaker speedometer that works on air pressure from a tiny fan run by the speedometer cable. It was completely unlike anything I had ever seen in a car. Looked like old submarine instruments. It appeared brand new. The other was a faceplate for a Harley upon which he had reproduced the biker's scorpion tattoo in full color. The shop was full of fifties speedometers that had been recalibrated for higher speeds, but in the original typefaces, and instruments from antique cars that had been totally restored right down to repainting the numbers on the odo dials. He opened up the Smiths tach. He found a coil that had expired from heat. It had jammed the movement so it could not move. How it got to 8000 is a matter for conjecture. He told me that he could fix it, but it would cost a large amount of money. I should either try to find another one, or let him put in different guts. He told me that there were several disadvantages to the original induction tach: They are often inaccurate (the one in my Midget was wildly optimistic). Since they depend on the ignition components of the car, they can change. There is no way to calibrate them in the shop, it has to be done in the car. If the coil opens up in the tach, your car stops running. He said he could modernize the tach and it would look exactly the same as original and be accurate. The new method uses electronic circuitry to count the ignition pulses. He would: Clean everything. Repaint the inside of the can white and the outside of the can gray. Refinish trim parts as needed. Build a new movement using S-W or other parts. Install the electronics. Calibrate with a square-wave generator. Guarantee the lot for one year. Cost: $135. The cheapest I have seen a new one is $200. I could probably find a cheaper modern one to fit, but then it would not look right. Have to have that Smiths orange and red pie look. So I told him to go ahead. Trouble is, if he gets it that beautiful, the speedo will look dingy.
=====================

The result is amazing. The tach works great and looks brand-new. It does, in fact, make the speedo look a bit old. I suggest that if you have a few bucks to spend and want your Europa to look perfect, you send all your instruments to this guy.

Peter Blackford <pmbsab@naples.infi.net> For reference, 'cause we talk about insurance rates here on occasion, I just checked what i'm paying here in Florida, for full coverage, unlimited "pleasure" mileage, and $500 deductible collision: $561 / year ('70 Europa S2). This makes looking into a specialty company less of a priority... and without going into "stated value" land, they peg it at just over $5k which I feel is fair.

jertigger2@cs.com I went with Parish for starters, they quoted me $275 2500 miles per year and $12500 value.

paul a zielinski <paulzielinski@juno.com> There has been some recent threads about insuring Europas in the USA. I got antique car insurance from Condon & Skelly via St. Paul Mercury Insurance Co. Actually, I just picked them out via their ad in Hemings. My local insurance agent that handles our daily drivers/home insurance takes care of all the paper work. So my Lotus Europa insurance in New York State is $104 per year. And that has been the rate for the past ten years. I am limited to 2,500 miles per year, for club related events, or TESTING. So when I have breakfast with my car buddies, that is a club event, or TESTING. When I go for a drive on the weekend, I am TESTING. I have the car insured at $8000 (cost is $56). You pick the value. You pay $7 per $1000 valuation. I also have $500K bodily injury/property damage for $14. Medical payments for $5K each person for $2. Uninsured motorist $500K for $29. NYS surchage $1!! If my 1565 lb. Europa destroys a bus full of tourists, my regular car insurance will kick in. I am told that some people experience broken odometers during the driving season. But really, I don't do more than 2500 miles a driving season in my Europa. Antique car insurance companies actually do quite well with these policies. They have very few claims, since we are so careful, paranoid
drivers when we are near SUVs. Antique car drivers are the most insurable drivers in the USA.

Jeff Hovis <jeffh@biowhittaker.com> I've got to agree with Paul, I've got my 1970 S2 insured with State Farm for $10k and I've spent almost twice that much since August, 1997, including the purchase price. I have antique car insurance and my total premium is $85.60 and Atlanta, GA is rated an expensive auto insurance area. I don't know why, we're all excellent drivers. As far as annual mileage, I've driven my car less than 3,000 miles since August, 1997.

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Use the 3M spray designed for carpet. Don't use the extra heavy stuff for vinyl tops, but the lighter duty stuff for carpets. Its easy to use, and if you overspray I have a full can of the stuff to remove it and can send you a small sample, which will be more than enough to fix any mistakes, its kinda expensive ($30). I think I used 3 cans of the spray stuff, large cans. I haven't found anything better as yet, and 3M puts out quality stuff. The cheaper brand, I think it was Mar-lyn?? isn't as good.

> From: "jeff hovis" <jhovis@mindspring.com> In my previous message, I said that I a got a new carpet set but forgot to ask if anyone had any suggestions on installing it. Should I use velcro or some sort of glue?

From: Randall Fehr <rsfehr@seanet.com> The carpet must be glued in. Use spray contact adhesive. A good-looking and long-lasting carpet job requires that the pieces be installed carefully and glued down completely with the exception of the footwell floor pieces, which are held down with "invisible" carpet snaps. These snaps are available from suppliers like Bean but probably also from auto upholstery shops and perhaps even large hardware stores. A pronged ring pushes through the carpet and hides in the pile. It is bent over a snap socket on the back side, which snaps onto to a snap stud screwed through the floor. This is the way they were done by Lotus, and allows one to un-snap, remove and shake out the floor pieces. Another hint: remove the door seals, install the carpet and cut flush with the door opening, then carefully reinstall the seal pushing it over the body flange and carpet.

Harald Freise <hfreise@fox.nstn.ca> Cement anything vertical or near vertical. I used 3M Super 77 spray adhesive on both sides (leave until tacky) then another coat, on one surface only, before fitting press in place. Foot mats, with the foam underneath, are good enough for friction fit. I used double sided carpet tape to keep the console carpet in place and the tunnel accessible. No problems for over 5 years.

Scott Mitchell <smitch@erols.com> Today the local Lotus Ltd chapter had a Tech Day at Kevin McGovern's. I took the opportunity to do a custom seat for autocrossing the Europa. With a helmet on I need a bit of extra headroom, and a bit more legroom couldn't hurt. The trick part of the seat is the two part Polyurethane Foam that I got from Pegasus. Though I don't think there's anything special about it, I'm sure you could get the stuff cheaper from some Industrial supply. From Pegasus, a quart of each part costs $41. I ended up using about half of that for this seat. So I pulled into Kevin's Garage, and removed the drivers seat. Everything went pretty much according to plan. Measure part A and part B, mix them, and when it starts to heat & expand pour it into a large trashbag, put the bag into the chassis, and sit on it. It took three small batches, but what I've got is pretty good. I had expected to make two parts, but a single lawn & leaf bag (39 gal) made a seat from mid-thigh to armpit. Most importantly I gain about 2" above the helmet.. and my C.G is definately lower in the car. The seat has good support, nice bolstering up to the arm pits, and amazing detail... nice detents for my wallet, belt, belt loop, and you could even make out my Jeans pocket and stitching. There are a couple minor quibbles...It isn't quite semetrical, and it may be laid back too far, so a 2.0 version may be necessary down the line. I still need to fiberglass the mold for durability and to meet ASP rules I need to make it 'fully padded and upholstered'. But that shouldn't be hard. Then the beta testing begins. ;-)

"jeff hovis" <jhovis@mindspring.com> Today, I took out the passenger seat and took it down to Automod to compare it to the Corbeau seats. The only seat that is close in size and seat back rake angle is the Clubman which is also the least expensive at $220. I have already placed it in the car to see how it fit. Height wise, it is about two inches taller which is no problem. I will have to make some adjustment to the seat back rake. It is still a little too straight and I'm going to try adding some spacers to the front mounting bolts to tilt it back a little more. We compared the S2 sliders to the seats while in the store and they look like they'll work fine. Finally, if anyone else is looking for competition seats, these are very nice but if you're over 6ft, I don't think you'll be able to get in and out over the side bolsters. I'm 5'10" and it was quite a chore to get in and out with this seat. I'll have to put my helmet on inside the car. A clarification about the seat height. When I said the seat is about 2 in. taller, I was referring to the seat back. I think that the actual seat is a tad lower if anything.

Everett Stephens <everettstephens@pol.net> Subject: RE: wood glue Date: Sun, 14 Mar 1999 03:27:44 -0500

Mark Hollingsworth <markh@olympus.net> Subject: wood glue Someone was talking about a good waterproof glue they liked. I need to glue the veneer on my Euorpa dashboard (finally). New wood. I tend toward Titebond II, a big competitor to Elmer's. Elmer's has recently introduced a glue called ProBond, which I have not used but have hard good things about. Everett S. 70 Elan S4 SE (as if an Elan wasn't enough to keep me busy, I play at cabinetbuilding also.)

"Briggs Pletcher" <Briggs1@ix.netcom.com> Subject: RE:Wood Glue Date: Sun, 14 Mar 1999 06:27:54 -0500
To do the job right I would suggest a two part epoxy. I used marine grade stuff. It was a two part with one part being a powder. When mixed it turned into a paste and was very easy to work with. Just make sure that you have more clamps than you need and press it against another flat board to spread the pressure and get a smooth finish. Mine turned out great. Will absolutely last a life time. Briggs, 72 Europa

Mike Carrick <mcarrick@ford.com> Subject: Wood Glue Date: 15 Mar 1999 06:23:20 –0500 A thought or two. Marine grade glue (resorcinol) such as Cascophen is excellent stuff; the major repair work I did on my boat over 20 yrs ago is still OK. However, it's expensive; for other than the most extreme marine use, it's overkill and fibreglass resin is quite adequate. Also, it's brown in colour and will spoil a decorative finish. Potentially it could soak far enough into a thin veneer to be noticed. If fitting a dash panel (eg veneered plywood) I'd suggest fibreglass resin; but whatever you use, ensure the wood is finished first ie varnished or polished or whatever. Any glue getting onto raw wood is going to ruin the appearance. If putting on a veneer, I'd suggest hot melt sheet glue. I've used it with great success on loudspeakers; I bought it from the veneer supplier, it just irons on. The point is, as mentioned above, you don't want a liquid glue getting on the face of the veneer or soaking through any porous bits, as it'll ruin the raw wood. Just my 2p's worth.

rodbean@ix.netcom.com Subject: Re: Elan S4 - Dash pad removal and replacement Thu, 18 Mar 1999 17:55:30 –0800 References: <004e01be719c$35467780$95140518@c58868-a.plano1.tx.home.com> Jeff Cocking wrote: From what I can tell the dash pad is glued down. Has anyone removed it? Any suggestions. Would like to keep it, as it is in great shape, and re-install later.

Ken Landaiche <ken.landaiche@dlcc.com> Subject: RE: Window finishers (and other adhesive applications) Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 09:32:48 –0800 I considered this tape for the fiberglass door sill trim panels on my Europa Special. But those have to come off once in a while. What sort of two sided tape would be best for that application?

Tim Engel [mailto:tengel@isd.net] Transfer tape is all adhesive with no thin plastic film carrier. It comes with a peel strip on both sides. Pull off one peel strip and press the tape onto the part. Then peel off the second strip and press the part into position. VHB stands for Very High Bond and is a structural adhesive. After a 24 hour set-up, you will have to destroy the plastic strip to get it off again.

"Brian Martley" <brian.martley@tesco.net> There's a metal bracket bolted to the back of the dashboard and the column bolts to this. If you have the parts manual, it's shown on section HA – if you haven't email off list & I'll scan it for you.

rod farnsworth <farnsworthr@nucleus.com> Hi, Do you want a heater blower? Try what I did. Use a 6 inch 12 volt computer fan, two in series if more air volume is needed, and attach them which long screws to the heater intake hole in the front luggage compartment. Arrange a switch and presto!. Heat. They do protrude into the compartment but it works ok.

rod farnsworth <farnsworthr@nucleus.com> ken.landaiche@nokia.com wrote: If you want to engineer that a bit more (we do own Lotuses, right?) consider this. I saw one of our network servers open at work. The processor had a 3"x5" heat sink on it and two fans in series as Rod suggested. The tech told me that the first fan runs at 9000 RPM while the second runs at 14000 RPM to accelerate the already moving air. Rod, did you attach them where the plenum fan usually goes or right at the bulkhead opening?

I attached mine at the bulkhead, but what's wrong with the same arrangement on the plenum. Then you'd have hot and cold running air! Cold at the Dash vents and hot on the feet.

Type902@aol.com Try Les Twigg at www.cars.u-net.com for a roll bar and solve the harness problem.

From: IKneer@aol.com Success!! Drivers seat removed! I removed the access plug for the upper A-arm bolt, inserted a chain around the A-arm back through the seat cushion, inserted screwdriver in chain and twisted, pulling the seat forward as the chain shortened.

Rich Sheya <canyon@wolsi.com> Subject: re:racing harness in a Europa Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 10:26:16 –0700 Several years ago I installed a 6-point racing harness in my S-2 Europa. I attached the left shoulder belt to the stock location and the
right to a "sandwich" made from 2 pieces of 1/8" steel about 3" square. I ran a bolt through the belt attachment bracket, the inside piece of steel, the firewall and the outside piece of steel. The lap belts mounted to the stock seatbelt location, the anti-submarine strap I bolted through the floor using the same technique as the shoulder belts. I always belted up before driving, which some people thought absurd. One day I was making a left turn with a left turn arrow and a guy driving a Taurus ran the red light coming the other way. He impacted the right side of my car just behind the right front tire. The cops figured he was doing about 55mph. Anyway the racing harness did it's job although I did have some bruises on my shoulders and hips from
the belts and a few cuts from flying glass. Other than that I walked away. Of course the Europa was a total loss, there wasn't one undamaged part on the whole car. But the belts held and did their job.

INTERIOR, Steering wheel

Rob LaMoreaux <RLaMoreaux@BTE-US.com> Subject: RE: Europa steering wheel Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 10:22:33 –0500 Here is a link to a place that sells leather steering wheel covers for $28.00 + $4.00 S&H, and they will provide cusotm sizes at no charge. http://www.dccarcare.com/wsorig.html This is where I intend to get a new cover for my Elan since the original vinyl is split, and the cheap vinyl cover over it was ugly.

Randall Fehr <rsfehr@seanet.com> The basketweave pattern vinyl used in Europas and later Elans has long since gone unavailable. There is a VW/Porsche/Audi vinyl with a somewhat similar pattern that is available from any auto upholstery supplier.

kmccormick@cgsinc.com Subject: Jacking Points on TC Europa? Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 15:28:11 -0400
I have used the following jacking points on my 72 TC. To lower and raise the car with hydraulic jacks use a small piece of wood (3x5x1/2) to cover the metal jack end first. Placement is under the rear of the front wheel well being sure to place the wood so that it straddles the vertical fiberglass, the floor portion and the turned in inner section (the inner section where all three meet is the strongest point - picture a cube, where the jack is placed under the bottom corner ). The rear I lift the same way using the FRONT of the rear wheel well (same placement strategy as with the front). I was originally using the factory recommended placement behind the rear wheel well, until the body started to crack at that position. Once the front is lifted, 2 jack stands can be placed under the front end. There is a metal frame brace directly between the wheels (I believe it is behind the removable panel - don't remember ?). It is only about 3 inches wide so be careful when placing the jack stands. I use the rear frame (bent bar) transmission mount for jack stand placement in the rear. I have not had the car up on all 4 jack stands at once. I have used 4 hydraulic jacks at one time which worked just fine. When I did my suspension, I did one end at a time. I found that I needed to use a hydraulic jack under the suspension components when reassembled, to place enough load on them to reattach the sway bar under the shocks.

ken.landaiche@nokia.com Subject: RE: Jacking Points on TC Europa? Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 00:22:11 +0300
For my TC Special, I jack in the back at the transmission/engine joint then put jack stands under the wishbone legs. In front I ... don't really remember, it's been so long. I have used the factory recommended points just behind the wheel wells.

Randall Fehr <rsfehr@seanet.com> Subject: RE: Jacking Points on TC Europa? Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 18:10:56 –0700 Whenever possible jack the car from the frame, not the body. If your jack will not reach under the nose all the way to the front crossmember, drive or push the car onto pieces of wood or other 'shims', a couple of inches thick should do. The jack should then reach. Raise the front and place jack stands under the crossmember at each extremity next to the lower wishbones. Go to the rear and jack from the rear transaxle support tube (if accessible, depends on transaxle) or under the lower links inner pivot bracket. Place stands under the frame legs just aft of the driveshafts. This position requires tall stands - get taller stands rather than try to support the car somewhere else. Don't place stands under the box-section trailing arms or under the lower links - they bend easily and the car will not be stable. Make certain that the car is very stable on the stands - not rocking, tilting, or leaning.

Warren Pearce <pearceww@rmi.net> Subject: Re: Jacking Points on TC Europa? Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 21:07:50 –0600 If you look at the bottom of the body just to the rear of the front wheel wells and just to the front of the rear wheel wells you will see an area that is flat and parallel to the ground. That's the normal place to put a jack stand for holding the entire car without having a jack stand on the frame/engine/gearbox. I always put a small piece of 2X4 between the stand and the bottom of the body to spread out the load. As often as not, I will place the stands under the frame at the front. Putting the stands at the rear locations keeps them as far as possible from engine/gearbox parts if I am working there.

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: Jacking Points on TC Europa? Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 21:10:10 –0700 During my restoration I used the following guidelines: The use of the body for jacking is not the best idea, and should be used with caution, and only in emergencies (flat on the road using stock jack, etc.). To jack the rear, I use a floor jack on the rear frame hoop where the transaxle rear mounts bolt to. Then I insert jackstands under both frame sides using 2 x 4s between the frame and jackstand. They are about 6 inches long, and I trimmed them down to about 2 x 3 size to fit. Put them as far forward as possible, just behind the axles. In front of the axles is better, but much harder to negotiate. Don't sit in the car with the rear jacked by the floor jack only, as this places alot of stress on that sheet metal frame. In the front, I use a floor jack, jacking in the center of the box section between the wishbones, or a little farther back. Use a full size 2 x 4 again, about 8 to 12 inches long as this is jacking up against sheet metal again. Leave enough room for the jackstands to be placed just inside of the wishbone (A-arm) attachment bolts, again using 2 x 4s between the jackstand and the frame. This gives a very stable car when working on all 4 wheels at one time. If removing the shocks, you can then slip the floor jack under the lower part of the rear hubs or trunions in the front to move the shocks up just enough to remove the bolts.

Jay Mitchell <jemitchell@compuserve.com> Björn-Anders Haverstad wrote: I am also a bit worried about the jacking points and chassis stands; I feel the body crack when I jack the car on the referred places.

"Phil Ethier" <pethier@isd.net> Invented, or more likely reinvented, a neat trick today. As some of you may know, I am slowly getting around to removing the myriad layers of paint from my Europa. Today, I wanted to jack up the front of the car to better reach some areas around the nose. I have a 2x4 padded with closed-cell foam on the top and with a round knob on the bottom designed to replace the saddle on my floor jack. Assembly enters from the front, and centers under the frame cross-piece. The front gets raised by the jack, then two jackstands take over and the jack is removed. Problem: When the car is on the floor, I don't have room under the car for the jack to fit. When the car is ambulatory, or I have a few folks around to help push, this is not a big deal. Rolling the front end up on 4x4 ramps is enough. I could not meet those requirements today. Jacking on the body is not an option. I have seen what's down there, and I don't trust it. That's when the inspiration hit me. I got down my "belts and straps" box. Got out a pair of Omni shoulder straps I pulled out of the car before we torched it (repeatedly) for a corner-worker fire school. Sometimes it pays to save stuff. Each of these straps can be oriented to have a metal eye on one end and an adjustable buckle on the other. This particular belt is luckily arranged so the adjustable buckle terminates in a tab with a square hole in it. First I arranged each belt in front of the front tires, the fixed eye rear-facing. Then I rolled the car onto the belts. Behind one front tire, I placed a welded jackstand with the upper part removed. I held the eye over the top of the jackstand and dropped a bolt through the eye and into the throat of the jackstand. I rolled the car back until the strap was tightly pulling down on the jackstand, then put the car in gear and chocked the opposite rear tire. I have a small trolley jack I picked up at Pep Boys (yes, they have made it to Minnesota now), I removed the rotating saddle and thus revealed a vertical hole intended for the retention of said saddle. Placing the business end of the jack in front of the tire, I held the seat-belt tab over the hole in the jack and dropped in another bolt. Then I tightened the belt adjuster as much as possible and carefully started jacking. As the jack pulled up on the strap, the tire rotated slightly on the wheel bearing. The car could not move back so the strap started raising the car at half the rate that the jack rose. When the jack threatened the car body, I put a board under the tire and fully lowered the jack. Then I tightened up the adjuster as much as possible and lifted again. Soon I had 5 inches of wood under the tire. I put a second jackstand to work on the other side of the car and applied the trolley jack to that belt. Of course, this side responded more easily since the other side was taking some weight. Soon there was 5 inches of wood under this tire also. With even more clearance than I was used to, it was a simple matter for me to install my big floor jack and raise the car to accept jackstands in my usual manner.

A good jack to get under and lift the front of a Europa has always been a bit of a problem to find. As the list proves, many of us have different ways to do it, some are cheaper than others. :-) I have a Lincoln jack that I bought at a tool shop in my area. If you have a K-119 Tools, or a Tool-Land in your area you can get one from
them. THey aren't cheap (I think I paid about $265 for mine) but they are the lowest hydraulic jack I've come across (from pad to floor) and in addition to the front, they will fit under the inner suspension pick-up points under the gearbox on the rear of a Europa, even with saggy springs. The front is a little trickier but I've found that it has always done the job. Most of the time I'll slide the jack under so that the pad clears the sway bar and reaches the "T" section of the frame, and then I'll slide a 2X4 onto the pad and raise it from there. Or, I sometimes push one front tire up onto a 2X4 and that gives it enough tilt for the jack to slide under far enough. I can give you the product number and the min and max height as well if anyone is interested. Like I said, it's as low as I've seen a hydraulic floor jack get, and it'll get your Europa up pretty high as well. Scott@mini.chicago.com

Go down to your local junk yard and get a siccor jack for $5 out of any car. Use it from behind the back of front wheel on the A-arms. Let's not give our money away. Marc rc car person http://www.goodnet.com/~jrmsn 74 TC Spl

SJMARCY@aol.com This stuff is awesome: Loctite's PST: pipe sealer with teflon. Unlike plumbers pipe dope, this materail really seals. It completely fills the gaps between the male and female thread like regualr loctite and yet doesn't lock it solid. It seals better than teflon tape too , with no worries about loose bits clogging up something. i haven't tried it on the threaded

Randall Fehr <rsfehr@seanet.com> A TC owner recently gave up attempting to remove the carrier nuts after breaking several teeth off them, even with the special Renault tool I loaned him. I had to heat the nuts to 200F to get them to move – the threads had been smeared with what looked like Permatex #2 gasket sealer. This was a big headache and I would stay away from anything but a teflon thread sealer such as Stan recommends.

"SMITH, THOMAS B. (JSC-DX)" <thomas.b.smith1@jsc.nasa.gov> As mentioned on this list earlier, I had to replace one of my headlights on my Lotus. Instead of getting an el cheapo sealed beam, I ended up replacing both units with Bosch H4's. For me, it was a choice between the Hella's and the Bosch. The Cibie's had good recommendations from other listers, but they were more than I wanted to spend. Not being able to determine any performance differences between the other two, I chose the Bosch, simply because they are not as flat-faced and I thought they would look more appropriate on my car. Performance: They are a BIG improvement over the sealed beams. I am using the standard bulbs 60/55W, and the light output is excellent (even though I should add a relay because I'm getting a 2 volt drop, but it's still impressive). I was afraid the sharp cutoff would be bothersome (less diffused light to see road signs on low beams), but these have a sharp rise which does a good job of illuminating the shoulder. The light pattern of each lamp shining on a wall looks something like
-------/
------------/
The only drawback I noticed with this pattern is on turns, the shoulder light is high enough that it might bother the car you are following until the turn is complete. Overall though, I would recommend them (technically they are not street legal, but no one seems to care anymore). More people sell the Hella's than Bosch; I found the Bosch units at http://www.starprises.com/BOSCH7H4.htm and would recommend them.

Phil Ethier and Mark MarKell have both posted pictures of one of the headlight covers taped in place on their cars. Phil's S2 has the high fender line typical of late S2's and Twin Cams. Mark's S1 has the low fender line typical of S1's and early S2's. Between the two of them, they "cover" the field. In both cases, the quickie installation (taped on) illustrates how they would look if trimmed over-size to overlap the headlight bucket. That's the easiest method. They can also be trimmed to set into the headlight bucket flush with the surrounding fender surface. That's more difficult to get right... a uniform, minimum gap. It also requires some ingenuity to come up with a mounting bracket. Small angle brackets are usually used. Hobby shops sell small nylon brackets and small screws for use on models. DuBro is one brand. Metal brackets would lend themselves to bending for a better fit. The covers are molded out of thin (1/16 inch, 1.5 mm) and cuts relatively easily with sharp, quality scissors or aircraft sheet metal shears. A faint reference line is molded into the part. The edge can be sanded smooth and flame polished (practice on cut scraps!). Work slowly. You can't cut it larger again. Soft vinyl edging can also be used to trim the
edge. Please visit the following sites to checkout the looks BEFORE ordering. Be sure you want them before you commit. I'm just passing on costs and won't have a profit margin to support a "returns" program. All sales will be
final. Mark MarKell's lo-fendered S1 <http://www.micro-engineering.com/Type46> and use the 'Covers' button.
Phil Ethier's hi-fendered S2 (also typical of Twin Cams) <http://www.ememories.com/pf/default.asp?PF=94989184AEC2A393&PFR=650086> Tim Engel

13 Nov 00, Tom Berkeley wrote: Date: Monday, November 13, 2000 9:56 PM Subject: Re: Europa Headlight Cover Installation Discussion Group? >Got my headlight covers today. What type of plastic was used??
> (Snip)...

"Mark MarKell" <Type46@micro-engineering.com> Subject: Lotus Cars Mailing list Mon, 12 Jul 1999 07:38:29 –0700 Typical problems in subscribing to this list have to do with the fact that the posting address and the subscribing address are not the same. Send a note to the following address (try just double-clicking on the link rather than re-typing it) with 'subscribe' in both the subject and body (I don't think both are necessary, but won't hurt). Note this address has 'request' in it whereas the posting address you probably have does not. Once successfully subscribed you must post (E-mail) to the posting address shown below the subscribing address.

Subscribing address: Subscribe/unsubscribe to lotus-cars-request@lists1.best.com

Posting address: Send submissions to lotus-cars@lists1.best.com.earing adjuster (yet) but it should fill the bill.

Scott Mitchell <scott@fortner.com> I've always been a bit fearful of using loctite in a Helicoiled thread. I'm always afraid the Helicoil will come out with the bolt. But I suppose this is less of an issue with a stud. If you're gonna do it I'd suggest using the blue and certainly not either red. And yes that 'right angle bit' isn't a reliable retention device. That 'tang' is ment to be knocked out after installation and it is notched for just that reason. I wouldn't put any faith in it.

SJMARCY@aol.com Absolutely, but use Threadlocker (blue), not any of the more aggressive stuff. Blue Loctite leaves the part removable without heating, so you won't be causing a possible future owner any unnecessary grief. One tidbit about loctite. The strength seems to be much higher if there is a steel/steel interface, although I don't have a lot of data on this factor. Steel/aluminum can be much weaker. I have seen figures for steel / alum of about 1/5 to 1/3 the strength of steel / steel. One example for loctite bearing retainer showed 3-4000 psi steel/steel and about 600 psi for alum./steel. Even so if you consider the surface area of the threaded diff bearing adjusters, this is still pretty strong.

"Tim Engel" <tengel@isd.net> The hub is normally installed with an anaerobic adhesive like Locktite Retaining Compound. Shear strength on the good stuff (RC 635 or RC 680) is about 4000 PSI. Look at the surface area in the hub's splines and do the math. You could lift the world with that stuff. Properly installed, it's necessary to heat the hub up to over 300 degrees F before the adhesive will let go. If someone attempted to pull the hub without heating it... really tried... with gusto... the ear(s) on the hub will pull outward. Been there, done that. Felt dumb.

dan.morrison@autodesk.com The only "grease" fitting I am aware of is for the trunnions. It is located on the inside of the upright. And at the risk of starting a big debate, you should only use 90 wt gear oil for lubricating these. If the fitting is missing look for a plug in its place. This needed to be removed and a suitable dispenser used to inject the oil. I used a plastic syringe and bent the tip under a little heat to make it easier to access.

"Phil Ethier" <pethier@isd.net> It's a heck of a lot easier to buy a cheap grease gun and fill it with oil.

"Phil Ethier" <pethier@isd.net> There should be a zerk in the lower trunion. You can use gear oil or high-quality modern grease. Any grease that may harden over time could be dangerous here. The upper ball joint is a permanently-sealed Spitfire unit. The inboard stuff is all rubber-and-steel bushings.

paul a zielinski <paulzielinski@juno.com> I've used nothing but grease in my trunions since I collected my Europa from US Customs......in Baltimore.........in 1971.

"Tim Engel" <tengel@isd.net> Subject: Re: Europa front suspension question Date:7 May 1999 22:26:00 –0500 You didn't miss anything. The only "grease" fittings in the front suspension are on the vertical axis of the trunions, and they are plugged with little bolts. Replace the bolts with grease zerks and pump them full of EP 90-140 gear oil.

Subject: "mirror, mirror on the car..." (Vitalonis) Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 08:50:35 EST From: ClassMaker@aol.com
>> Yes. The North American distributor for Vitaloni is Torino Industries in Bedford Park, Illinois (I believe it's just outside of Chicago). Their phone number is 708-496-0805. Very friendly people. >> Brian Elkins >> '72 Europa S2

"Paul V. Gregory" wrote: > > Do you know of a vendor or catalogue featuring the Vitaloni line of door-mounted rearviews mirrors? One of my two on the Europa is unserviceable. Model type is called "California" I think.

...and Torino's fax is 708-496-0816.

Harald Freise <hfreise@fox.nstn.ca> Metric 8.8 same as SAE Grade 5.

Check out the competitive wear test charts, http://www.amsoil.com/products/tro.html. shorter scar length = better protection:

davea@quasar.engr.sgi.com (David B Anderson) Subject: Oil Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 09:35:10 -0700 (PDT) On oil, specific engine: I have heard from more than one source that synthetics are not so good for Early Esprit. (mine is 79 S2). Rumors of oil leaking out(inadequate sealing)... Don't know if the rumors or the sources are correct. With 72 Europa TwinCam, on the other hand, RedLine synthetic leaked *less* (significantly less, leaks basically stopped) than Valvoline non-synthetic for me!

Warren Pearce pearceww@rmi.net Subject: Re: Oil Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 20:17:02 –0600 I've got over 130,000 miles on Castrol GTX with no real wear on the crank. I have replaced the bottom end bearings 2 or 3 times.

(carsecrets@igs.net).
OIL CHANGES FOR LONGER ENGINE LIFE and THE TRUTH ABOUT MIRACLE OIL ADDITIVES By: Corey Rudl

Beware of low-priced oil change bargains. You will notice that the price will drastically go up with the addition of useless additives and extra services not included in the package. Simple things like a $5.00 hidden oil disposal charge, or an extra $3.00 for the 23 point chassis lubrication, etc.