By Mike Ostrov

Chapman Report - March 1989

Look at the Lady, obtain a presence for her history. Take many pictures along the way. She can be confusing at times, but treat her with care. She will provide many enjoyable hours of lasting reward. She not only has guts but a good figure too...

Time to take her apart. Completely disassemble your Conventry Climax engine. Remove all studs, including the main caps, oil and water plugs and freeze plugs too. Check for worn threads, repair as required. Chamfer all holes to remove any of the pulled out alloy. Surface all flat areas carefully, then bring to your local machine shop, one that you can trust and is enthusiastic, for a COLD cleaning, DO NOT HOT TANK any alloy parts. Have the machine shop check for block distortion and alignment of the main cap saddles.

I usually cad plate all studs and other metal parts, it makes it easier to assemble and looks good. If your block is true, on the top and at the crankshaft area, and your new liners stand proud 0.0005" to 0.0020", it is time to put the pieces together. I use red (stud/bearing) Loctite on ALL studs and plugs. Hopefully nothing has to be removed for many hours of road/track driving.

Cut a piece of 0.0020" brass shim stock, as a gasket to fit behind the front water casting cover and behind the rear adapter plate. You'll notice corrosion starting in these places. Remove the timing cover and rear adapter plate locating dowels... explanation later.

If you're using replacement Vandervell bearings, and the crank has been checked for cracks and straightness, and hot tanked with the bung plugs removed and replaced and peened in place, check with plasti-gauge and micrometers to determine you clearances. Torque the main caps using large diameter thick washers and NO lock tabs.

For my street and race engines I use replacement Vandervell No. VPM91152, 0.010" undersize from a Ford 105E, 106E, 107E. Place each shell in the main caps, torque properly and measure with an Inside Micrometer and ID dimensions of each main cap in three or four locations. If the average readings are within 0.0005" of being round, I have my crank man, and he hates me for this, grind the crank to the average reading less 0.0010". Yes, that's 0.0010", I run very tight main clearances as oil pressure reduction is directly proportional to increased wear, oil temperature, viscosity and elevated operational temperatures. The co-efficient of expansion of aluminum is significantly greater than that of steel. As an after thought, I'm working on replacing the lower alloy main caps with a set of steel ones, as done on the FPF Grand Prix units. Torque the mains at 10lb increments each, while turning the crank by hand each time. It should turn freely. Prussian Blue can be used to determine any high/low spots and hand scraping is then completed. For street usage and light competition, the standard forged crank, I believe is satisfactory, but for competition I use a steel billet. I have had one original crank fracture just aft of number one rod, just one event after it was X-rayed! I believe we are nearing the useful life-span of these parts and the fatigue cycle is catching up with increased use and the additional stress of competition.

The standard FWB rods are very robust for all applications even though in my race engines I use a replacement rod with higher torque bolts and split horizontally which require installation of the unit from the bottom. After having your machine shop determine they are crack free and straight, have the big end and small end sized to your specifications.

I replace the 9mm rod bolts with 12 point high tensile units and torqued properly. Do not use the compressible lock tabs. Standard climax bearing shells are excellent, although for my street and race engines I use a MGB 0.010" undersize, torqued properly, and measured for ID and then if your crank man is still taking to you, have the crank ground to these dimensions less 0.0020". Don't forget to have the proper fillet radii ground too.

Naturally all items have been properly balanced, both dynamic and statically. Remember when having balance work done for street or track use the front pulley with bolt and washer, crankshaft with timing gear installed, flywheel (aluminum for competition), 6 flywheel bolts, diaphragm pressure plate with bolts and flat washers (no split type lock washers are ever used on my engines, only the solid wave type metric washers if required) are all needed to ensure a proper balance job. The crank is done first, then the front pulley, then the flywheel and finally the pressure plate, all items being clearly marked for reassembly. The pistons with rings, wrist pins and clips, the rods with bolts installed are all statically balanced and matched.

I believe the original Hepolite pistons are most satisfactory for road use and light competition. I do use replacement forged Cosworth pistons and wrist pins in the race engine. I did have a fracture just above the wrist pin and below the oil control groove in one engine, again just after having the pistons dye checked. A variety of rings are available. I have found the standard cast iron type from the MGA 2.9995" bore, 1622 cc unit is fine. End gap is 0.012" and fitted parallel to the wrist pins with the oil control rings either a three or four piece type. Assemble in the normal manner, using hot water over the pistons to insert the wrist pins. Do not force or hammer.

Your short block is now assembled with liners, pistons, rods, crank, etc. It should still turn by hand. Place washers over the corner of each pair of liners and secure with a coarse bolt into the block to hold everything in place. You will be turning the unit upside down many times before the head is place.

The head is a most stout unit. Do check for fractures, especially around the spark plug threads in the combustion chamber. I have my heads bench flowed, new silicone bronze valve guides installed, surfaced to obtain your required compression ration and fitted with new Cosworth or standard Climax valves and ground, then hand lapped and checked with Prussian Blue for seating. New springs and its time to assemble. After all valves are installed, I check for leaks by either blowing into each inlet and exhaust port, air at atmospheric pressure (not more than 15 PSI) and watch for bubbles around the valve edges after filling each chamber with fluid. Or you could use the misses' vacuum cleaner and suck air out of each port, watching for disappearing fluid. I'm a bachelor, so no one to argue with me about the cleaner. Race engines are cc'd down to about 22cc or approximately 0.080" taken off a stock head. This plus a 0.035" compressed CMA3299 silver head gasket and other critical measurements should provide an 11.3 to 1 compression ratio. I use a chemist's burette with colored fluid to cc the combustion chambers and top of each piston. Then measuring the deck height and thickness of a compressed head gasket you will be able to calculate your compression ratio (See Dave Bean's Elan and Ford engine Manuals for a great description on how to calculate displacement). My stock 1500cc Climax engine is a 9.25 to 1 CR, because of the low octane petrol available for street use. The race engine requires high-octane 102 or 110 race fuel, available for $3.60 per gallon at the track. Do make sure your valves are straight across the stems and sit well down in the top spring collar, so that the adjusting shims will not bounce out at elevated revs.

Time for the front timing cover. After installation of the various timing gears, properly aligned at TDC, a new timing chain, yes they do stretch, and timing tensioner and new oil seal, do not forget the oil slinger. This is a good time to make a TDC pointer by installing a threaded long bolt from behind the dimple on the timing cover, make the bolt long enough to reach the outer lip of the front pulley. I drill the stud holes oversize so that the timing cover will slip on without any interference. This procedure, with the dowel pins removed, will allow the cover to self-align onto the crankshaft. Tighten all lock nuts and replace the dowel pins, redrilling if necessary.

The rear adapter plate is installed in the same self-aligning manner. If you have the steel billet crankshaft or have converted to the 1500 displacement you will have the newer type lip seal arrangement and it will self center. If you are using the sealing ring crankshaft, tip the engine on its nose, lubricate the rings, and gently slide the adapter plate on. Don't forget the brass shim gasket for the upper water opening. Use a wire gauge to center the adapter plate around the end of the crankshaft. Tighten all lock nuts to a maximum of 15 ft lbs. for 5/16" nuts and 10 ft lbs. for the 1/4" nuts. Install the dowel pins, redrilling if required and peen over the edge.

Replace the pilot bushing with either bronze oilite or roller bearing type to match the OD of the input shaft on your transmission. There are different sizes for each transmission. If you have converted to the 1500 engine and are using a ZF, the input shaft is about 1/8" to 3/16" too long, it bottoms out in the crankshaft and must be ground back.

Time for the bottom end items. Separate the oil pump, remove all studs, check for wear or scoring as per the engine manual, surface the pump bodies, make sure the pressure relief valve is free and measure the relief spring. New dimensions are 5.90mm or about 5/16" free length. I shim mine with a 0.100" washer to increase the relief pop-off figure to 65-70 lbs. at speed. When putting the pump together, insert the drive shaft and turn while tightening the 4 pump body lock-nuts. Also when installing into the engine, keep the drive shaft in place, turning regularly. I use only aircraft lock-nuts on this installation. Now the sump and its many studs and lock-nuts are ready to complete the short block assembly.

Time to right the engine. I must confess that I do all my engine work on my kitchen table and the parts are laid out in the living room and dining room floor and table. When people visit there is a trail of parts from the front door around the house. (Honest!... Ed.). It's nice at 2:00 am to go do some work when the urge strikes.

Place the crank at TDC, measure carefully to determine this position and strike a mark on the edge of the front pulley. I use two sets of dial micrometers to determine TDC. Also use a depth micrometer to measure the deck height of each piston to the top of the liners. This is necessary to calculate your compression ratio.

I have found it easier to do a preliminary shim adjustment with the head off the block. I start with 0.007" and 0.009" cold as there is some valve face seating and shrinkage after running. The race engine has a 0.360" lift standard cam with two extra bearing blocks fabricated out of aluminum and standard valve springs. No evidence of valve bounce on either the many dyno runs or track usage. I replace the cam bearing cap studs with high quality bolts that go through the bottom threaded portion and secured with wave type lock washers. This practice makes for easier removal of the cam for valve lash adjustments and uses all of the threads in the carrier. Remember to keep the cam buckets in their respective positions in the carrier.

Assemble the head onto the block, use only large diameter, thick high quality flat washers and NON-LOCKING NUTS. Torque carefully per the workshop manual for proper sequence in 5 ft lb. increments. If any doubt about stripping or pulling out a head stud, STOP and inspect. Repair now, not at the track or on some deserted by-way.

I forgot to remind you to measure the piston-to-valve clearance. So back up, and with everything in place on the head, use modeling clay (I use wood putty) and place a small amount in the valve cutout of each piston, lubricate. Install and tighten all the components, turn the engine through all four cycles and back to TDC. If any resistance is felt, stop and examine. Remove the head and slice the modeling clay to measure the clearance. Somewhat messy, I let the putty dry, remove it and using an inside micrometer, measure the clearance. You now have a permanent imprint of your piston cutouts. Use an old compressed head gasket while taking these measurements. A minimum of 0.0750" clearance is suggested. Consult your local race engine builder for assistance.

(Boy, am I getting tired, even though it takes me 40 to 60 hours to assemble and engine, this typing is even worse!) Maybe because it is satisfying to see the engine pieces go together. As a reminder, all these comments are my personal methods and may not be applicable to your requirements. When in doubt consult a reputable source. So far, other than the broken original-style crank and the fractured used Hepolite piston, which resulted in destroying TWO complete engines, no other mechanical engine problems. The racecar is used over a thousand track miles each season and the street 1500cc Climax many more.

Time to torque the final head assembly to the block as described above. Install the cam carrier. Don't forget the 'O'-ring at the rear. Make sure the lock nuts and washers opposite number 4 and 5 cam lobes are parallel so as not to interfere with the toe on the high lift 0.360" cam. With everything installed rotate the engine through its full 4 piston cycles and stop at TDC. Mark the number 3 cam cap and cam flange.

A few miscellaneous thoughts. I have the big-end rod caps surfaced at the rod bolt end to ensure a smooth fit, good torque readings and a surface parallel to the split ends. The same procedure for the main caps too.

All BSP fittings, including the return drain lines are replaced with National tapered pipes and fittings and fitted with steel braided Aeroquip lines. Dash 4 on the oil pressure lines from the bottom of the block head and from the head to the oil pressure gauge.

The gas line receives a dash 5 line from the tank to the engine. The manual pump is most satisfactory for road use, and requires priming after the carbs have sat awhile. The racecar has an in-line electric pump in the boot with a pressure regulator and high density filter before the Webers. The Webers are somewhat sensitive to fuel pressure. 2 to 2 1/2 lbs. is all that is necessary.

Make sure the exhaust header is matched to your exhaust ports. An easy method is to bolt it up to the head, use a torch with a rose-bud tip and heat the headers. Let them cool and they will match perfectly.

New brass freeze plugs are epoxied in place. The water pump is disassembled, surfaced, and repaired if required. Assemble on the engine with the generator and timing pulley to align. Shim the water pump or generator as required to provide perfect alignment. I replace the steel water-tube from the pump to elbow on the block with a high quality Gates Green Stripe hose, retain the "O"-rings.

You may wish to weld all steel lock nuts on the backside of the adapter plate to ease installation and removal of the starter motor when the engine is in your Elite. Or weld the appropriate length bolts in the same manner.

I pressurize the oil passages by inserting the oil drive shaft without the brass gear and turn it counter-clockwise with a variable speed hand drill. Be sure to hook up your oil pressure gauge. Makes quite a mess if not! One could also use the starter motor with plugs removed. Good check for leaks, stuck relief valves, gauge, etc.

Oil used is Valvoline or Kendall 50wt racing and 40wt same for the street cars. An oil cooler and remote filter with a pick up for oil temperature and an oil pressure warning light set at 45lbs, on the dash is a wise idea.

Spark plugs are Champion N-3 for the street and Champion N-3G fine wire plugs for the track. Your distributor should be checked on a bench machine for shaft wear, point bounce and to determine the mechanical advance curve. I have noticed the replacement points at 24oz of tension allow for point bounce at elevated RPMs, an easy cure is to double the attachment spring. The original points had approximately 36oz tension.

The following break in procedures are done on an engine dyno, but might be suitable for in the car use too.

Check sump level, use 50/50 mixture of anti-freeze and water, static time the distributor to 3 to 5 degrees BTDC and fire her up. I place a paper advance scale on the front pulley to read the total crankshaft advance while on the dyno.

After she fires up and examined for leaks, satisfactory oil pressure, etc. we run for 25 to 30 minutes at various loads and RPMs from 2000 to 4000. Stop, eat some lunch for a few hours or over-night to let everything cool down. Remove cam carrier, but first take valve lash clearance readings. Re-torque the head nuts, adjust valve lash and re-assemble. Now it's finally time to do all the tuning adjustments that the dyno provides. I strongly suggest that if you do have access to a dyno, use it. Just think of trying to adjust carbs, timing, valve lash, etc. while bending over a fresh paint job! When done, you now have a turn-key engine to install in your recent Elite restoration.

The Weber and SU carbs are now examined for fuel readings exhaust gas temperature and torque readings. Adjustments are made. Crankshaft advance is adjusted and set. I have fabricated a vernier cam timing sprocket to advance or retard only the cam in increments of 1 1/2 degrees. My experience shows the factory was spot on with zero overlap. Exhaust systems can be fabricated with various lengths and tubing sizes and checked on the dyno for each application. Not much one can do for street application. On my last engine, the 1500cc, we measured surface temperature from the exhaust ports along the entire muffler system to the rear tips. Figures are shown elsewhere. Remember how close this system is to your polyester body. Leave plenty of air space! I paint my systems flat high-temperature black and paint the exhaust channel with a sliver to reflect as much heat as possible. The exhaust header is metal sprayed or aluminized. Looks good, doesn't rust or peel.

I think it's time to stop. I've left out many items. Maybe someone could continue this article with their experiences. I do think engine work is more satisfying than body restoration.

Please, if I can assist, either with words of encouragement or some helpful hints, do call or write. Club Elite USA is going to do a collection of our technical articles from our past 110 newsletters. Any input will be appreciated and I will pass it along to Foster Cooperstein who doing this tremendous task.

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS THAT I USE (all figures in ft-lbs.)

Main Caps 38-40 (grade 8)

9mm Rod Bolts 24-26 (new)

Flywheel (Steel) 35-38 (grade 8)

Head (cold) 20-22 (grade 8)

Cam Sprocket 32-34

Cam Caps 14-16

Cam Cover 10-12

Cam Carrier 13-15

Jack Shaft 32-34

Pressure Plate 23-25

Front Pulley 38-40

1/4" Nuts 12 max

5/16" Nuts 18 max

Spark Plugs 18-20

MY FINAL SETTINGS & DYNOMETER COMPARISONS OF CONVENTRY CLIMAX ENGINES

FWE 1216cc (road use)

1216cc Road Use: Plugs - Champion N-3, Cam Timing - 00 split overlap, Fuel - 92 Octane RON Unleaded, Valve Clearance (in/ex) - 0.010"/0.012" cold settings, Ignition Timing - 30BTDC and 380-400 total advance at crankshaft. Exhaust System - Derrington Header with straight pipe 1 3/4" OD x 40" long, Camshaft - Crane with a 0.360" lift. Fuel Pressure - 2 1/2 to 3 lbs. Dual SU carbs, no air cleaners, 0.090 main jets, GT or QP - 4 needles, no air intake horns. Compression readings; 170 to 174 lbs. all cylinders, hot, with open throttles.

FWE 1216cc (competition use)

1216cc Competition Use: Plugs - Champion N-3G, Cam Timing - 00 split overlap, Fuel - 104-110 Octane RON leaded, Valve Clearance (in/ex) - 0.007"/0.009" cold settings, Ignition Timing - 60BTDC and 400 max total advance at crankshaft. Exhaust System - Derrington Header with straight pipe 1 1/2" OD/26 1/2" long exit before rear wheel, Camshaft - 0.360" lift with 5 bearings. Fuel Pressure - 2 1/2 to 3 lbs. Weber carbs 40DCOE31 series; mains-125, emulsion-F16, air-180, venturies-32mm, air intake horns-1 5/8", air cleaners - none. Compression readings; 240-245 lbs. all cylinders, hot, with open throttles. Compression Ratio: 11.01 to 1.00.

FWE 1460cc (road use)

1460cc Road Use: Plugs - Champion N-3G, Cam Timing - 00 split overlap, Fuel - 92 Octane RON unleaded, Valve Clearance (in/ex) - 0.007"/0.009" cold settings, Ignition Timing - 30BTDC and 300 max total advance at crankshaft. Exhaust System - Derrington Header with full muffler system, See temperature diagram, Camshaft - 0.310". Fuel Pressure - 2 1/2 to 3 lbs. Weber carbs 40DCOE51 series; mains-110, emulsion-F11, air-200, venturies-28mm, air intake horns-1 5/8", air cleaners - none used. Compression readings; 195-200 lbs. all cylinders, hot with open throttles. Compression Ratio: 9.35 to 1.00. Note: SUs run with a 2 BHP loss experienced at all RPMs tested and a slight increase in fuel consumption at approximately 1.75 lbs. per hour.

All Temperatures measured in degrees F at the surface, except for exhaust port internal temperature.

Figures first listed are taken during a loaded power run on the dyno between 4000/5000 RPM. Figures in parenthesis are taken at idle speeds between 800/1000 rpm, after a cool down period.

Description of exhaust system: Aluminized (metal sprayed) Derrington 4 into 1 exhaust header. Tubing is 1 1/2" OD. All joints (2) have the trailing pipe slip fitted over the leading pipe so as to minimize any exhaust gas leakage and center clamped. The center resonator is 4" OD, 22" long with a 1 3/4" ID center core and fiberglass filled. Note: The increased surface temperature after the collector box 820(625) and at the rear bend 450(375).

Please remember that my Climax engines are built to my specifications and requirements. The 1216 FWE is a most satisfactory unit, having stood the test of time and hard usage for both road and competition use. The FWB 1460 is a worthy substitute if one desires additional torque and BHP at lower revolutions to lessen engine wear even with the increased stroke, piston speed and travel. A caution, that in my experience the FWB is not a willing high rev engine as I limited my dynamometer testing to 6000 rpms at which time an increased oil and water temperature were noted and a decline in operating oil pressure. Subsequent power runs while testing the SUs for a comparison and limiting the rpms to 5000 showed no decline form the original oil pressure of 60 to 65 lbs/sq inch. I have not yet installed the engine in No 1523, which is still under going a complete restoration.