bdboyle@fpe.erenj.com (Boyle, Bryan D.) Subject: AC in a 'Ropa Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 08:11:01 -0500
Aaron spake thus: >"squirrel cage" blower that feeds air to the air box in front. My Europa (Special) doesn't have this, if I remember correctly. It had something in the same place that I didn't recognize, with a mini radiator inside the air box (for heat?).

Seem to recall that you mentioned that A/C had been installed in your car at one time; this may be the cooling coil for the installation. Blow air thru it, cooling it down, and open up the dash vents...the front trunk is a fresh air plenum, so this may have been the mod that got your car its ac flow. Have a feeling that the compressor was taken out at some point or another if you can't find it in the engine compartment...

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: Europa Battery Question Date: Sun, 14 Mar 1999 07:29:39 -0800
Jerry Geil wrote: What is a good battery for a Lotus Europa Twin Cam? The previous owner of my car had a battery that was too large for the hold down system. I want to replace it so the battery can be solidly restrained. The workshop manual calls for an "Exide 6VTA 29L" 12-volt battery rated at 39 amp hours. None of the auto parts stores can figure out that rating. Batteries now are all rated in "cold cranking amps". What kind of cold cranking amps do I need for my Twin Cam?

Richard.Longo@usa.xerox.com writes: > Also the battery cable to the starter should be in top shape. And the ground braid from motor back to chassis, as Mark MarKell has reminded me to pay attention to round trip current path from battery through starter. PS: I fussed around with my Europa's starter before LOG-18, thinking the solenoid contacts were marginal. Mark put a meter on the battery and watched it drop to about 2 volts. Bingo! We replaced that guaranteed "Firebrick" battery with el cheapo discount store battery from my 72 Dodge Dart. Cranked like crazy.

BATTERY, Jump starting

Karl-Franz Marquez <karlfranz@bol.net> Subject: Re: Jump Start Question (E) Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 13:34:11 –0400 The donor car gets positive terminal to positive cable and negative teminal to negative cable. It is the car disabled car that has the negative cable connected to the block or some other suitable un-painted metal surface away from the battery. Heres all the steps: In cold weather, a good quality booster cable with four to six gauge wire is necessary to provide enough current to the disabled car to start the engine. (The smaller the wire gauge number, i.e., the larger the wire diameter, the better.) Please check the owner's manual for BOTH vehicles BEFORE attempting to jump start and follow the manufacturer's procedure because some cars should not be running during a jump start. However, starting the disabled car with the good car running can prevent having two disabled. DO NOT allow the booster cable clamps touch each other or the POSITIVE clamp to touch the frame or engine block.

1. If BELOW freezing, determine that the electrolyte is NOT frozen in the dead battery. If frozen, allow to thaw BEFORE proceeding. A discharged battery, i.e., battery voltage or 12.0 volts or less or specific gravity of 1.140 or less, will freeze at approximately 8 degrees F (-15 degrees C).

2. Without the cars touching, turn off all unnecessary accessories and lights on BOTH cars, insure there is plenty of ventilation, and put on some protective eye ware.

3. Start the car with the good battery and let it run for at least two or three minutes at fast idle to recharge it's battery BEFORE proceeding.

4. Connect the POSITIVE booster cable clamp (usually RED) to the POSITIVE terminal on the dead battery. Connect the POSITIVE booster cable clamp on the other end of the booster cable to the POSITIVE terminal on the good battery.

5. Connect the NEGATIVE booster cable clamp (usually BLACK) to the NEGITIVE terminal on the good battery and the NEGATIVE booster cable clamp on the other end to a clean, unpainted area on the engine block or frame on the disabled car AWAY from the battery.

6. Let the good car to continue to run at high idle for five minutes OR MORE to allow the dead battery to receive some recharge and to warm it's electrolyte.

7. Start the disabled car and allow to run at high idle. If the car does not start the first time, recheck the connections, wait a few minutes and try again.

8. Disconnect the booster cables in the REVERSE order, starting with the NEGITIVE clamp on the block or frame of the disabled car to minimize the possibility of an explosion.

9. As soon as possible, fully recharge and test the dead battery for latent or permanent damage as a result of the deep discharge.

SJMARCY@aol.com I came across an easy way to get super strong, precise between-the-sealed-bearing spacers. Drill jig bushings. For $ 3.66 each I obtained a few 1 3/16 ID straight simple bushes made of hard, high grade, well finished, shiny steel. They are a hair too long though and will need a quick lathe job to get them down to the 2 inch stock Special length. Earlier cars use 2 1/8 length spacers with the small inner bearings. The stock 30 mm stub axle diameter is quite a bit smaller than the stock tube-spacers. A loose fit is prone to problems since the spacer won't self center itself. A bad combo given known compressive yield issues. So at one section only about half of the stock tube more or less touches the bearing rings due to the loose fit.. Again, not so hot! By using a 1 3/16 drill jig bush with a precise, accurate ID we wind up about 0.006 inches larger than the stub axle OD. It pilots on the 30 mm portions of the stub axle at either end so it is very stable. The lathe work to cut the length down from 2 1/2 to 2 inches might take me about 15 minutes or so on my small lathe. Shorter lengths might be available - my supplier was out of stock. The Europas with the 31 mm ID inner bearings can't use that size. But it's a good idea to machine such a stub axle down to 30 mm OD anyway so that cheaper, readily available bearings can be used.. If you have it all apart, of course. Else use a larger ID drill jig bush.

magriese@us.ibm.com Subject: Fasteners Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 07:25:46 -0500
If you're looking to replace those rusty old fasteners in your car with nice clean stainless steel, a company called McMaster-Carr is worth a look. You can order single quantity bolts from their website http://www.mcmaster.com at their box rate. So, if you want 5 M8x45 bolts and the box price is $29.00 per 100, you pay 5x29/100 = $1.45. Don't work for them, don't own any part of them, but I did place an order for most of the external bolts, washers and nuts for my engine - total was around $120 including shipping.

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> If you have a used plate, the bent edges go down. One side will have three equally spaced holes, closest to the slight bend in the plate. That is the rear. Three 1/4 UNF screws go up into the frame (I would
recommend you install SS bolts here as they tend to rust in!) which have nuts welded on the inside of the frame to hold them. The front will have, IIRC, 6 holes, three for attachment (use fender washers) to the fiberglass, and one for the ground point (on the passenger side, just to the rear of the attachment bolt). There are two other 1/4 inch holes, for which I have no idea what they are used for.

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: How many holes (U) Date: Sun, 06 Jun 1999 13:30:12 –0700
David B Anderson wrote: How many holes are there in the front luggage area (boot, trunk) of a 1972 Europa Twin Cam? (not the spare wheel/tire area, the luggage area)

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> I too have to add the gas struts. The 74 models had the struts stock. Ken Landaiche has a drawing showing the lower supports needed to install the struts, the upper support, however, hasn't been drawn yet. The
normal Lotus suppliers still stock the struts (same as on an Eclat/Elite front strut). I haven't calculated the strut size yet, but plan to do so in the near future, just to save a few $$. Once two struts are on the hood/bonnett, no extra stiffing should be required as it will be evenly supported.

farberjf@us.ibm.com I brushed regular resin on ...... carefully. It did just what I wanted which was seal the surface and eliminate future problems........ It hardened and I sanded lightly to flatten. I primered and painted as ususal.

Mark Hollingsworth <markh@olympus.net>
> Im finding a lot of small hairline cracks or starbursts.. any easy way to seal them ?

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Don't go thru the primer, stop there. The starbursts/cracking is called "stress cracks" and is due the the brittleness of the gel coat on the fiberglass. R&D enterprizes sells what is called "tissue" which
is very thin fiberglass mat. You sand down thru the gel coat and then use this with resin to bring the surface back up. Works great, but is tedious, and the only way to prevent recurrance of the cracking. Don't try just filling and sealing, doesn't work.

"Peter M. Blackford" <pmbsab@naples.infi.net Subject: "clay" paint cleaner? Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 21:22:22 -0400
I don't know if anyone here is familiar with this product, but it's been getting some good press... this is just one of several notes: Just thought I would mention the use of this clay and my results. I only had the time to do the hood and roof today, but the results are GREAT! Before you could run your hand over the surface after just washing the car. You could feel all the "crap" that had planted itself on the paint. After using the Clay Magic on the surface, it was unbelievable how smooth it became. You could see in the clay all the crap it picked up. I then waxed the surface with carnuba and WOW! What a great shine. Hopefully I'll have the time to finish the rest of the car next weekend. I recommend this highly. My car is a 93 and has
never had anything but wax performed on the paint. This is now a must do. It is quite easy to do. It might add an extra 45min to 1 hr, but your car will love you for it. You can get this stuff from Don Mallinson. Check out his web site http://www.dccarcare.com. It is a small investment to help your paint. (probably available elsewhere, as well... not a commercial message).

"Tim Engel" <tengel@isd.net> Subject: Stripping FRP (was Re: Comments?) Using a chemical stripper to take paint off a fiberglass part can be risky. I've gotten away with it, but I've only tried it on small parts I wouldn't cry over if things went south. I wouldn't want to risk it on a car body. If the stripper gets to the glass fiber, it will wick into the matte or weave. Once in there, it's difficult or impossible to get out. Depending upon the type of chemistry, it may actually attack the FRP, or it may just make painting problematic. A "little" pocket of stripper in the fibers will attack any paint that is applied over it and cause it to lift or blister. Some strippers are stronger that others. The strongest ones will actually attack the resin in a FRP part. I used a water based chemical stripper to take some paint off a fiberglass laminated wood structure (fuselage of an RC sailplane), and ended up taking all the glass off with the first application. Milder strippers may not attack the resin and the gelcoat may protect the fiber matte/ cloth from the nastier effects. May. If the gelcoat is intact and crack free. But any chip that exposes the matte, any stress crack that allows the gel to wick into the fiber, any stress crack repair in progress that exposes fibers... is potentially a problem. The gentleman who purchased my late '71 Europa S2 decided it need to be stripped and resprayed (and it did). He took it to a specialty body shop known for the beautiful work they did on Porsches, BMW's and Mercedes... but no fiberglass cars. They chemically stripped it. There was a small starburst stress crack in the center of the roof. After stripping the car, they repaired the starburst and repainted the car. About a month later the paint blistered where the star had been. They sanded it down and repainted. It blistered. Sanded and painted. It blistered. I saw the car periodically for several years afterwards and it always had the blister. The roof was repainted several times and the blister always returned. I don't know what stripper they used... sorry. But I know I won't use a chemical stripper on a fiberglass car. Sand it or take it in to be media blasted. If you blast it, be aware that blasting has a whole can of worms all it's own. Aggressive, hard media or high pressure can do severe damage to a fiberglass body... light weight Lotus bodies in particular. Go to someone experienced in blast-stripping fiberglass, have a serious heart-to-heart about the delicate nature of Lotus bodywork, use only "soft" media like plastic, ground walnut shells or soda and keep the pressure low. Go slow. Strip the gray primer and sand from there.

I'm not trying to be an alarmist, but there are some risks you should know about. I do suggest you invest in some sand paper. However, if you do continue with the chem-strip, don't try to take it all the way down chemically. It sounds like there's a lot of paint build up on your car, so be happy with just chem-stripping the upper layer, then sand it the rest of the way down to the primer. When you are done, wash the car thoroughly with acetone. Then let it sit and bake in the hot sun for a month or more to drive out any volatiles before attempting to paint it. Regards, Tim Engel

21 Mar 99, Mark MarKell <Type46@micro-engineering.com> wrote: I seem to remember a note from someone about strippers used on glass being not a good idea. Is that so? Something > about absorption or damage at the gel-coat level?

Do not use paint strippers. It will be absorbed into the 'glass, and later it will bleed out and ruin the paint job. The only good way is to sand it down. Good 'ol manual labor... If you are interested in a *good* body shop that specializes in Lotus, Evans Leinbach in Salisbury North Carolina, does *excellent* work. He did my car, and several other have seen it, and taken their car to him also. For what it's worth, my Elan won Best of Show at the LOG 18, mostly due to Evan's paint job (and body work). Several others at the LOG also decided to take their car to him after seeing mine... The pictures aren't very high resolution, but check out my web site <http://www.erols.com/elans4/> Tim Mullen, Chantilly, VA 72 Elan Sprint

Stripping -- how to have more fun. By Joel Farber

I found that I had to push quite vigorously on the tools to get the paint off, and was surprised that the amount of force used didn't hurt the glass at all. The stripper didn't harm metal or ordinary glass, but be careful near rubber or synthetics. Again, PROTECT YOUR EYES.

JerTigger@aol.com Subject: Fwd: Stripping Paint - Europa Special Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 17:58:24 EST
I am currently removing all the paint from my 72 Europa TC. The best product I could find for the price is BIX all finish paint remover. It costs about $10 per gallon at Home Depot. I slop it on thick, reapply several times to keep it wet over the course of 1 1/2 hours then use a plastic putty knife and it comes off like a gob of slime. This car has been repainted twice, very thick coats and most areas I get it down to the first coat of primer if not to the gel coat.

I have read the GGLC article and do not entirely agree with it. I don't understand "sanding leads to waves - unavoidably", unless it is understood that sanding off all the primers (block sanded at the factory) and fillers (applied and sanded in repairs later) reveal all the imperfections in the moulding. Some of these flaws were there from manufacture, some appear over time with aging and expansion/contraction of the resin in the structure. Others from damage. What I'm getting at is that 80% of a repair/repaint is sanding fillers and primers to a perfect, flaw-free shape. And for that to remain fairly stable over the years, you should remove all the old layers of paint, primer etc. Some say to leave at least the factory primer under the original color to save some of this effort, but I have not often found this to be practical. The very best info on stripping, repairing and painting Lotus bodies is Miles Wilkins' two books in the Osprey Restoration series - out of print. Apparently they are still available from www.Lotus-Books.com in Germany. I highly recommend you study these. –Randall

Mark Hollingsworth <markh@olympus.net> Subject: Re: Fwd: Stripping Paint - Europa Special Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 08:59:33 –0800 I personally wouldn't use any paint stripper. I know people that have, but there is too good of a chance of getting it into the gel coat. Even if it doesn't damage it, there is a good posibility of later problems with paint contamination. Sanding. I hate to say it, but thats really the best way. Try not to go through the original primer (if it is still there). If the paint it original, I'd sand with 180grit, nothing heavier. That can take a long time, but you have solves the problem of sand scratches showing through the final paint. Sanding it wet will make the paper work much better and last longer.

farberjf@us.ibm.com I didnt have any residual solvent problems at all. But after stripping I had many different surfaces (repairs / different types of glass.....). I painted on the thinnest possible coat of glass epoxy resin ---then sanded. It gave me one uniform surface to prime. Might have been overkill but I got good results. Keep in mind that Miles Wilkens --- THE Lotus factory reccomended restoration guy strips..... If you look down a bit in the www.gglotus.org site in the forsale Section I have a picture of my +2 painted.

JerTigger@aol.com My Europa had three finish coats plus several coats of primer in between, had alligator cracks,etc. all the way down. I heard many horror stories about paint strippers after I started. Used BIX stripper from Home Depot let it stay on for about 1 1/2 hours with rewetting in between. I did not have any problems with softening the fiberglass, except I left the small cup I used to hold the remover on the car upside down over night, softened the gelcoat and fiber glass base, no problem only one more patch out of many. It has been about three months since I did that so the chemical should be gassed out by now plus much wet sanding. I had many other things to do on the car and sit will be about another month before it sees primer.

"Warren Hartenstine" <whartenstine@earthlink.net> I stripped, using NAPA 6802, a water-soluble, lower strength stripper. When I applied a sufficient amount, the color coat blistered within 10 minutes and the primer stayed in tact. I washed the car twice after each day's work - about two days.

"Phil Ethier" <pethier@isd.net> (by way of Phil Ethier <phil.ethier@ci.stpaul.mn.us>) Subject: Europa Body Removal
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 08:27:50 –0800 From: VACUUMTUBE@aol.com <VACUUMTUBE@aol.com> >Does anyone happen to have a list of steps to follow to remove said body from a 74 TC Special? That is, what must first be released before removing the body.

This is from an exchange with Cory Carpenter, in which I told him about my 1970 Europa S2 chassis' out-of-body experience

Remove manifolds. Probably not necessary with stock manifold, but was with my side-draft. I had to take out one of the coolant hoses, too, but maybe on a stock car you can skip out on it.

Remove seats.

Remove inboard seat belt mounts. They go through the body to the frame. Outboard mounts can stay with the body.

Remove brake and clutch pedal assembly, as it through-bolts to frame. Pull the clutch cable all the way from the clutch. Don't forget to reassemble the cable parts. The little barrel that fits the clutch arm clevis is the only part I lost over the time the car was apart. This could only be due to inattention at the time of disassembly.

Remove throttle pedal. Trust me. It blocks access to the hand-brake. Pull the throttle cable all the way out of the car, after disconnecting at the carb end.

Remove hand-brake arm. The umbrella handle can stay attached to the body. The bolt that holds the arm to the frame is reached by removing the rubber plug in the bottom of the trunk/plenum. This is bitch. I have no idea how I am going to hook it up again, but am looking forward to some contortionism and cursing. (I did manage to get it together when the time came. It was a real challenge. Wish I could tell you how I did it, but it was one of those things that just finally came together, amid general rejoicing.)

Remove both coolant hoses from radiator and frame tubes in the nose section.

Remove steering column.

Remove frame-body closing plate. I put this off until later. I was wrong.

Remove brake master cylinder. Four bolts hold the base to the frame. There is a loose plate inside the frame that is tapped for the bolts. This is going to be really fun to refit (I discovered a trick for reinstallation: Bolt the loose plate inside the frame without the master-cylinder base. Drill a hole through the frame and plate in the middle, between the big holes. Install a
pop-rivet. Remove the bolts and the plate stays put whilst you install the master-cylinder base with the four bolts. The bottom ones are easier to reach with the frame-body closing plate out.)

The link from the (now removed) brake pedal will come with the base. To get the base out after the bolts are out, either raise the steering rack or remove the lower closing plate. I moved the rack. I was wrong. Closing plate is easier. Be very careful around the nose after the closing plate is out, as the nose has no support and you can crack the glass over the wheelwells.

Remove shift knob.

Remove console cover.

At the center base of the dashboard are two angle brackets. Remove the vertical bolts that secure them to threaded bosses in the frame.

Remove hoses that run from frame to heater cores.

Remove three body/frame bolts from each side of the tunnel on the firewall behind the seat area. There are nuts on the other end, on angles welded to the frame.

Remove one body/frame bolt from each side on the rear of frame rails flanking the gearbox.

Remove one body/frame bolt from each side of the trunk/plenum area. There are supposed to be rubber plugs covering these, but of course the plugs were missing on my car. In fact, the BOLTS were missing! I really wonder about some of the previous owners of this car.

If front closing plate is still attached, remove the two bolts that hold it to the nose. If you have been paying attention to my mistakes, you have already removed this part.

If you are going to work on fuel tanks, unfasten them now. Loosen the clamps and release the filler hoses. The tanks are held into the body by several tiny nut-bolt combos. If you still have the factory splash covers in front of the rear wheels, and of course I don't, they will have to come out to reach the nuts. When the tanks are loose, drop them to the floor. You will not be able to remove them yet. (When I put the tanks back in, I used bigger [!] 1/4-inch bolts, nylock nuts and large fender washers.)

Make a flat cart to match the width of the car and the length of the rocker panels. Use four casters, not fixed wheels. Pad the top.

Call the troops. You will need at least six besides yourself.

Be sure everything is ready. Shift the gearbox to neutral. Have the muscular types lift on the wheelwells. Remember to lift only near the back of the front ones. Nobody lifts on the nose.

Yank out the fuel tanks.

Roll the chassis straight back and out of the way. Be sure the tires and gear lever miss the body.

Roll the cart in from the side. Have the muscular types lower the body onto the cart.

Let the muscular types make jokes about putting a motorcycle saddle on the frame and driving it. :-)

Have one of the attending Lotus enthusiasts convince you to remove everything from the frame, strip and repaint it. :-) :-)

(Good thing, too. I found a couple of cracks that had to be repaired.)

(When I put the body back on, I replaced all the water-trapping felt with closed-cell foam.) pethier@isd.net

"Ed & Ruth Young" <lotusracer@home.com> Subject: Europa body removal Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 08:29:04 -0600
Many years ago, I removed the body from my Twin Cam Europa. Some helpful tips follow. Of course, you will want to remove all attaching bolts, gearshift knob, the seats(to lighten the body even more) and the oil pressure line(that's the one I almost forgot). I then started by jacking the body slowly off the frame, a little here, a little there to make sure that I indeed had undone all the important things. After raising it quite a bit, I took some long 4X4's and slid them through the wheel arch openings, one at the front 'T' section and one at the rear. They were long enough for my helpers to grab onto and to lift the body with. No wheel arch grabbing please! We lifted it up, clearing the shifter and walked it out of the garage. Later, we carried it back in, and set it down on the other half of the garage. When I put the body back on, I did it all by myself. I took 2 'come alongs', attaching one to the center of the 4X4 in the rear, which I had bolted to the body to prevent slipping, and the other one I attached to 2 eyebolts that I had attached to the 4X4 in the front through the shock bolt access holes. Winched the body up, rolled the chassis back under it, and slowly lowered it back on. A couple of clicks in front, a couple of clicks in the rear, watching and adjusting position of the chassis as I went. Once the body was resting on the 4X4's that were resting on the chassis, I took the jacks and raised the body back up enough to unbolt the 4X4's and slide them out. Then, all I needed to do was to lower it back off of the jacks. As light as the Europa body is, this was extremely easy on the back.

Steve Shipley <shiples@home.com> Subject: Re: Rubber treatment Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 18:06:37 -0700
I use Meguiar's #40 for appearance. With 1 year's experience I can't vouch for the long term performance claims.

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Warren Hartenstine wrote: It appears to me from the manual and from my memory of removing them that you would install the chrome strip and clips, and put the two sided tape on the car. It appears to me from the manual and from my memory of removing them that you would install the chrome strip and clips, and put the two sided tape on the car just below the chrome clips. Then push the sill straight up, nesting the lead edge under the chrome strip, against the two sided tape, and into the bottom clip at the same time. I do know that my sills were pretty tightly nested up under that chrome strip. Manual says, "To remove the trim sills, drill out pop rivet at both front and rear top edges, ease sills away from body at their upper edges, and remove by pushing down away from the clip. Replace by reversing these instructions." Can scan and send drawing, such as it is, if you want.

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Landaiche Ken (Nokia/PL) wrote: I don't. But I do have one that was painted with some gawdoffal gold metal flake paint. It doesn't match the one on the other side of the car. Does anyone know what the official paint is for that sill? And while we're at it, does anyone know what double sided tape to use for installing it?

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Landaiche Ken (Nokia/PL) wrote: This is getting interesting. What gun are you using for the paint work? And do you have a booth set up, or renting space as needed? And what do you mean about tiger stripes? As I recall, the sparkly paint is gold, right? I find it hard to believe that all Europa Special color scemes would use the same sill color, except that it would be cheaper :)

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Subject: E(U)ropa Update - Brake saga continues Sat, 20 Mar 1999 21:14:04 -0800
Just an update as things progress. The glass guy came to the house again, third time! The front winshield was installed on the second trip, glued in with urethane instead of the old butyl type mastic. He says its the new legal glue and 9 times stronger than the butyl. The chrome plastic trim was really a mess, he stuck it on the window after warming it and brought the window up "encapsulated", but it was still wavey and malformed. He cleaned the grove in the car, put a foam "dam" in (a 1/4 inch square foam strip which keeps the glue from oozing all over), and put a black primer in and then put a 1/4 x 3/4 inch bead of glue in the groove. Then he put the windshield with trim attached in his truck and turned up the heater. It sure was warm when he removed it and the trim really became pliable. We then just stuck in on. It looks pretty good now - not perfect but presentable. The rear window was a different matter though, on the first trip he made a pattern, on the second trip we tried to install it, but he cut it too small. So today he returned with a new window and worked from 9:30 AM straight to 3
PM putting that thing in. Finally, he got the whole thing in, even with all the right tools, that window is a bear!! So I'm $250 poorer but much happier .:-)

"Al Hostettler" <honor@erinet.com> Subject: Europa rear window Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 20:23:59 –0500 I feel as if great progress was made tonight. I started at 6:05 pm to install my rear window. At 7:27 pm I was cleaning things up. While it is not the easiest job and some help would probably be helpful, I did it myself and really did not think it was that bad. I was really afraid this would be a major job, so I had reserved this Saturday to do this. Now what will I do with Saturday? I have to admit it is not a perfect job. Even though I was stretching the molding it came up about 1/8 inch short. Well after looking at it a bit I decided it was OK. Then I installed the plastic retaining trim. I stretched this too but came up about 1/2 inch short. Well this will just have to do, besides maybe that is how it was originally. I have some black silicone that will seal it up water tight and it will be fine. Now if only the heater core is as easy.

thomas.b.smith1@jsc.nasa.gov writes: > What is the earlier windshield surround?
Black rubber channel, narrow silver plastic locking strip. If the strip ages, you just paint it black for a nice look. Or, you black it out from day one to keep it simple. The visual effect of the silver strip in the black rubber is similar to that of any 1991-1998 Lincoln Town Car, around all side windows and rear screen. Since you are in Texas, there should be plenty of those Lincolns around -- nice "land yacht" or "prarie schooner" huh? Mine was my "beltway battlecruiser" in the D.C. area! ken ritchie atlanta

Jay Mitchell <jemitchell@compuserve.com> Jason Rowan wrote: <snip> Basically, after a short drive the brakes won't release all the way, the brake lights stay on, and all the brakes get nice and hot.

Sounds like you've got residual hydraulic pressure that's not being released. That's the only way the brake lights would stay on. Something must be functioning as a "one way valve," allowing the pressure to increase but then retaining it when you release the pedal. Is the pedal being fully returned to its rest position? I'd check the Mc/pedal linkage and make sure that the pedal and MC have positive return action.

Mark Hollingsworth <markh@olympus.net> It sounds to me as if you have a bad flex brake hose. I've had those act
like one way valves before, they pump up, but will not release. Replace your hoses- probably due anyway.

"Mark MarKell" <Type46@micro-engineering.com> It sounds like the MC/pedal is not retracting all the way or is not adjusted to come all the way back when released. You said you replaced the MC and the adjustment would be suspect. Check and adjust the pedal free play at the MC.

"SMITH, THOMAS B. (JSC-DX)" <thomas.b.smith1@jsc.nasa.gov> Since all four brakes are binding and the brake light stays on, I would suspect the master cylinder, or the transfer mechanism on the front frame. Also, the pedal itself could be binding. Does the pedal return completely? Try pulling up on it and have someone see if the lights go out. Try to operate the pedal by hand to check for binding, free return etc. Also check the booster, if equipped. I've had one go bad on my Seven which caused the exact same thing.

"Ed & Ruth Young" <lotusracer@home.com> Subject: (U)Europa booster/brake question Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1999 14:15:51 –0600 I am forwarding this question for a friend who is the original owner of a 1974 Europa Twin Cam. His only e-mail is through work, and he is unable to subscribe to the list there. So, therefore I am posting this question for him :

>Nearly two years ago, I went through the process of rebuilding the brake >boosters of my Europa Special. Heeding the advice of Ray Psulkowski at R.D.Enterprises, I had the bores resleeved, and from Steve Styer's recommendation, by White Post Restorations. This was not cheap ($50 per bore, 5 bores per cylinder body, 2 bodies for the car), nor were the rebuild kits at $120 each. After all of that, imagine my disappointment when upon application, the brake pedal slowy but surely starts to push back at me! No matter how hard I push, the brake pedal continues it's travel back upwards. This really reduces one's confidence level when driving the car, especially in traffic. I have called White Post, and they seem puzzled by this too. Are you aware of anyone who has had this experience?

>Also, one extra favor....I would appreciate if someone could tell me what the "theory of operation" is for these boosters, which are the Girling Powerstop Mk2B remote servos. If nothing else, I could try to figure out the problem if only I knew how the crazy things worked! My e-mail address is sarro_carl@videojet.com, phone number at work is (630)860-7394 x1853, or (847)464-5213 at home.

I am about to remove the last brake booster from my '74 Special and thought I might share what I have learned so far. According to DBE the TC MC is .875. When removing the boosters the logical replacement would be the MC from an S2 Europa, except it was discontinued by Girling years ago. DBE specs it as .700. What I intend to try is to have the current MC sleeved in brass to .700, then have the pistons turned to match and use an S2 rebuild kit. Jerry Rude has drawings with the S2 internal dimensions for getting the pistons setup. I plan on getting the piston work done first, and then sending the whole lot to Whitepost or Apple and having them do the complete rebuild. I'll keep the list updated as this project progresses. Tom Rollins 1974 Lotus Europa Special 4158R tom@ntcs-inc.com

Robert "Fast Bob" Scheib <Robert.Scheib@gte.net> Your attempts to bleed out your Europa's brake system sounds very familiar - my car had sat for about 9 years when I bought it, and the brakes weren't working "very well" when I drove it home!! Oh my, now thats a story!! After many attempts at flushing and bleeding - the flushed out fluid looked the same- nasty, and there just did'nt seem to be much pedal effort, although the m.cyl. held pressure when it's line fittings were plugged. I finally realized that the boosters were leaking internally, and were filling up with fluid! You may be experiencing the same thing. During my cars restoration process I've replumbed the brakes to be "non-boosted", installed a S2
mastercylinder and Aeroquip flex lines. I now have a very firm pedal with just the right effort and "feel". If you want to keep your boosters [a real undertaking to rebuild!!] and existing mastercylinder, I would recommend sending the m.cyl. to "Whitepost Restorations" to be rebored and brass sleeved - I've had super good results from this operation. A "hone" and new seals are a waste of time.

Ken Landaiche <ken.landaiche@dlcc.com> Subject: RE: Europa Pedal Drawing! Wed, 17 Mar 1999 09:41:27 –0800

From: whs018@conrad.appstate.edu [mailto:whs018@conrad.appstate.edu Am I asking for trouble using boosterless brakes on a Europa? Since the Europa uses a single cylinder setup, wouldn't it be too much trouble to convert the car to use double cylinders?

My TC Special came to me without any boosters. I changed toa smaller master cylinder. It works well. It uses a single cylinder, but two brake circuits. So a dual cylinder setup would require some cutting, but the plumbing would be preserved. The stock Europa's brake balance isn't the best. Having dual cylinders, and the associated variable balance bar, would allow precise tuning of fore-aft braking. That was what Mike referred to.

Jerry Rude gdrude@pacbell.net Subject: Re: (U)Europa booster/brake question Wed, 17 Mar 1999 21:13:30 -0800
Join Lotus Ltd for $20 and get the Europa book for $15, it has an article on using the Europa without the brake boosters. It involves utilizing lower quality brake pads/shoes to achieve a high enough coefficient of friction. Or convert to a S2 master cylinder, or have yours sleeved down to the S2 size and have the pistons machined down to match. The S2 and the TC cylinders are the same design, only difference is the piston/bore diameters.

Now on the GGLC site - 3 new tech articles... An excellent one from Jerry Rude detailing the conversion of TC Europa brakes to non-boosted system using S2 dual master cylinder. http://www.gglotus.org

The stock calipers are Spitfire and are still easy and cheap to obtain, so I don't worry much about them. Phil Ethier Saint Paul Minnesota USA Lotus Europa, VW Quantum Syncro, Chev Suburban LOON, TCVWC, MAC pethier@isd.net http://www.visi.com/mac/

Randall Fehr <rsfehr@seanet.com> Subject: RE: Euro-spec Europa (U) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 1999 07:08:47 -0800
"Peter M. Blackford" <pmbsab@naples.infi.net> Anyone on the List know of any replacement calipers in aluminum or SS? At worst, yours may need to be resleeved (White Post Restorations has been hignly recommended by others...)

No need re-sleeve these calipers. The piston seals against an o-ring located in the caliper bore. The actual bore surface in the caliper has no sealing function, and as long as it is clean will not interfere with piston movement. Randall

Keith Gustafson <gusmach@shore.net> Subject: Re headlights & brake fluid Date: Tue, 8 Jun 1999 13:43:19 -0400
This same conversation keeps coming up about silicone brake fluid. I have been running silicone in my +2 for 14 years, covering about 65k miles in that time, with NO problems. It bleeds fine, works fine etc. etc. I have no idea where this info comes from.

Robert Tufts <rbt@frontiernet.net> Subject: Re: Re headlights & brake fluid Date: Tue, 8 Jun 1999 16:18:59 -0400
You have to be very careful installing the stuff. Because of the viscosity it traps micro air bubbles. You wouldn't want to take a can that got shaken real good and try to bleed it and when overheated at the track all these micro air bubbles expand. It is also not compatable with all seals (check on indivual basis). also it's not recommended on some ABS systems because of different viscosity. On a daily driver (brakes not heated like the track) it could be just fine, but it could be expensive and a lot more problems than it's worth for a car used occaisionally at the track (bleeding often anyway). To each their own but I'll choose the cheaper DOT 3 FORD Heavy Duty and bleed as required for the track. (bleeding often removes moisture buildup).

Robert Tufts <rbt@frontiernet.net> Subject: Re: ABS brake fluid Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 14:22:42 –0400

Here's one article: http://www.houston-bmwcca.com/articles/avoiding_brake_problems.html. Another:
http://www.c-edge.com/shotimes/SHO4brakes.html. And another: http://www.cardone.com/news/may5.htm.

From: SJMARCY@aol.com In a message dated 6/16/99 7:55:08 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Briggs1@ix.netcom.com writes: Wondering if you would be good enough to share your knowledge on changing the rear brakes to discs. I have been thinking about it for a while and curious if you've decided on which ones to use. I know Banks sells a conversion kit but I would expect that there is a more economical way to go.

That comes later I am sure that there are a number of good ways to do it. I'd like to eventually do it inboard, so I am allowing for that possibility from the outset. Therefore my discs might be flat racing style designs with a series of bolts which retain the disc to a "hat" sized as required. Or else a cheapey OEM style disc from a small car. To go inboard the inner yoke would need to have disc mounts fitted to it. And a caliper mount would be needed too. I am not positive if the transaxle turns accurately enough for such an approach - to avoid knockback and runout issues. Conventional outboard discs could be mounted over the stock hub with an allowance for the offset change. I want to keep the offset stock so that wheel choices aren't complicated. Minor hub mods can allow such an offset. While I am at it I want to ditch the stock built-in threaded section on the Special (and all europa) stub axle. By cutting it off and retaining the hub via drilling and tapping the stub axle to accept an alloy steel bolt. This gets rid of an area that has been known to fail from metal fatigue - which leads to a wheel
coming off.... For calipers, something small and light such as a wilwood alloy piece, vette rears, or similar may be used. For caliper mounts some of the stock car places sell stamped steel pieces which can be welded onto the steel suspension arms. I really don't like disc front drum rear since the two systems apply and release differently. And I have heard that rear drums
for the Special are hard to find. I have done brake upgrades to a number of different cars so I am not too worried about it.

"Jay Mitchell" <jemitchell@compuserve.com> All the comments re overhaul of Europa MCs, calipers, etc., have
reminded me of some serious caveats. These apply to brake hydraulics in general, and there's nothing about Lotus brakes that makes them immune. Here goes:

1. Honing ANY brake cylinder or caliper is not a good idea. The honing process increases the inside diameter of the cylinder – it must in order to remove pits - the result being that replacement rubber cups are much more likely to turn over when the piston moves (possibly when you first reassemble the part). All cleanup of bores should be done with 600 grit sandpaper, with sanding debris being washed off with brake fluid. If there are pits or scores too deep to completely remove using this method, the cylinder in question should not be considered rebuildable. Wheel cylinders or calipers with rust pitting or deep linear or circumferential scoring should under no circumstances be reused, as early failure of the rebuilt part is virtually assured.

2. Dual circuit MCs should be replaced rather than rebuilt. Even if the bore is in excellent condition, the odds of turning one or more of the cups as you reinsert the pistons is great. In my 20+ year experience with dual circuit MCs, I'd say that successful rebuild odds are 50-70%. And that's just the odds of the cylinder working long enough to bleed the brakes upon reinstallation.

3. S2 MCs have been discontinued by Girling since 1987. I currently have an ATE unit for a 1973 Super Beetle on mine, but that requires a bit of modification to the car. The simplest solution is to fit a single-circuit MC purchased from a racing supply house. Units from Girling, Tilton, Wilwood, and Lockheed all have bolt spacing that matches the holes in the chassis, and the changeover will only require that you remove the brake linkage box from the car and fit the new MC, along with some simple replumbing to combine both brake circuits. The requisite fittings, tubing, flare tools, etc. are all readily available
from aforementioned racing supply houses. These MCs will generally be rebuildable one or two times, and kits are also readily available.

I know there's some interest in maintaining a car's originality here, but, IMHO, it's far more important for my car's brakes to
stop it than to have them in their original configuration. Keep in mind that non-Federal Europas all came with a single circuit
braking system, and that the dual circuit system is not generally more reliable than a single circuit one. My $.02, Jay

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Would you like a copy of the lucas assembly drawing that comes with the rebuild kit? or do you have that? Are you are referring to the "tip valve" it inserts from the outside of the cylinder, with the cone end down, and is held in by the allen set screw "which is hollow". You have to put both pistons in first however as the tip valve holds the pistons in until you get the rod and plate in with the clip. Kind of tricky beings the pistons are spring loaded. So you have to devise a way to hold the pistons in far enough until you put in the "tip valve" and tighten the allen set screw. Then carefully release the pistons and then put on the rod and holding plate. Hope this helps, all going from memory though. If you need any one part, I have a few spares from the kits I've used. make sure you coat things with the red grease and bench bleed the cylinder before installing into the car.

paul a zielinski <paulzielinski@juno.com> Subject: S2 Europa Cross Drilled Brake Rotors Date: Sat, 10 Apr 1999 21:23:54 –0400 Just got a pair of cross-drilled brake rotors from Moss Motors. In conjunction with the May 1 New Jersey Britfest 99, I got the pair from Moss at 15% discount with free Priority mail shipping! All in all, a decent deal I think. And prices for all Moss stuff will go up soon. These are Spitfire discs of course, and are identical to Lotus-Lucas discs. These discs have a beautiful golden, corrosion free surface. And they weigh 4.5 lb each. The Lotus-Lucas disc weighs 5.0 lb each.

paul a zielinski <paulzielinski@juno.com> I forgot to add. With the Britfest 99 discount (intended for those attending Britfest 99 in New Jersey), I paid for $162 US for the pair. This included New Jersey sales tax and free shipping. Normally, Moss sells these for about $90 each. I've seen then offered by other Triumph specialists in the $80s. But wait! The manufacturer/supllier is: Autospecialty of Carson, Ca. Part #s EBR-065L, EBR-065R. Maybe a better price can be found.

The Moss Motors web site has a picture of the rotors http://www.mossmotors.com/britishaccessories/mechanicalsystems/brakes/crossdrilledrotor.html
Could you comment on the quality of the cross drilled holes. Were they nicely chamfered or stress relieved? It would be a shame if they were to develop cracks! Cheers, Ross

davea@quasar.engr.sgi.com (David B Anderson) europa, brake pipe Wed, 17 Mar 1999 11:01:37 -0800 (PST)
>Let me clear up what I ment by copper-nickle brake tubing. I originally saw it in a Moss Motors (nice MG/Triumph/Healy parts) catalog. It may have been imported from Europe, but it isn't copper, its an alloy. Its supposed to be easier to bend and won't rust. That's all I know. Moss (www.mossmotors.com) sells this material as a 'set' for a particular car. Not as plain lengths of pipe. (Could not find on line, called 1-800-235-6954, toll free in USA, to talk to a human being.)

whs018@conrad.appstate.edu Subject: Re: Cu-Ni (Monel) brake tube, Bean Thu, 18 Mar 1999 20:26:56 -0500 (EST)
The copper-nicle tubing that Moss caries is "equivalent to C70600 (90% copper, 10% nickle)." The product they sell is manufactured in the UK and made to fit cetain cars (none of which are Lotus). They claim that this type of brake tubing is "used by Volvo, Rolls Royce, Lotus (!), Aston Martin, Porsche, and Audi" and they add "so you know its good." They also say that the brake lines are for the _high pressure_ part of the brake system. Any listers know where I can get this kind of brake tubing here in the US?

Adrian Rose <Adrian.Rose@triad.plc.uk> Subject: Re: Cu & Cu-Ni brake tubes Fri, 19 Mar 1999 12:34:59 -0000
A UK supplier who might be able to help you US folks: According to their catalogue, Demon Tweeks do both Copper and Copper Nickel brake pipe. They claim the copper tube is slightly more malleable that the copper nickel, and is tested to 10,000 psi – apparently double SAE specs. The Copper Nickel is 60% higher than this and meets German TUV specs.

They list it as
copper, 3/16 * 25ft GBP 11.14
copper, 1/4 * 25ft GBP 16.84
copper nickel, 3/16 * 25ft GBP 13.32
copper nickel, 1/4 * 25ft 28.84
all plus 17.5% VAT for UK and shipping.

Their number is +44 1978 664466, and they are set up for international orders. Web site at:
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/

"Jeff Cocking" <jeff@cocking.com> Subject: RE: Cu & Cu-Ni brake tubes Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 08:35:49 -0600
I was reviewing an article in a 93 issue of Your Classic. It had a big ad for a company called Automec. They specialize in Copper Brake Pipes. They sell premade sets for Loti as per their ad. Their address is as follows:

Automec Equipment & Parts
36 Ballmoor
Buckingham MK 18 1RQ
Tel: 0280 822818

traff@ICON.HMSD.UFL.EDU writes: > Maybe I'm repeating old info, but there are a few interesting tech articles at the Dimebank web site. I found the one on brake tubing of interest. http://www.dimebank.com/tech/

dan.morrison@autodesk.com I bought one from NAPA. Can't vouch for the results yet though. I haven't driven the car yet.

whs018@conrad.appstate.edu Subject: Re: Twink carbs – federal Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 19:32:05 -0500 (EST) I never thought that SU's could go on a Europa, but I don't see why not!:-) Moss Motors sells a lot of SU carbs and they prive SU HS6 carbs (two of them, 1 3/4", says they will fit an MGB) for $700. That's *much* cheaper than Webers, and there's no machine work required. Does that sound like overkill, or does the twink like smaller carbs? Banks (in UK) sell Dellorto carbs for about $400 a pair, the last time I looked. Are the Dellortos (original size for Euro-spec) any better?

ClassMaker@aol.com Subject: Re: Twink carbs – federal Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 06:47:15 EST Because SU's (& Strombergs) are "variable venturi" carbs, they have a more flexible operating range. You can use a big throat carb like that, yet get the advantages of more torque (as from a smaller venturi) while taking off from idle and so on. With Weber or Dellorto, you are stuck with a "fixed choke" (main venturi) and you have to choose... optimize either the low end (torque) or the top end (power) -- you can't have both.. Compared to Webers... Dellortos have more progression holes--passages that drop fuel into the main venturies (also called "chokes"--but not to be confused w/starters). This provides a smoother transition between idle and main fuel circuits. Lotus was part of the Dellorto development process. In fact, the later the model (of either brand) the more progression holes you'll find. The earlier Webers started with 2. Early Dellortos had 3 (I've got those). The last of the Dellortos had 6 (six!). Richie Longo has experience in drilling extra holes in earlier carbs... but you've gotta know it is tricky. The SU's (variable venturi) are your least costly and most flexible option. And, if you ever get bit by the autocrossing bug, you'll be able to run in the SCCA "A Street-Prepared" (ASP) classes, a near-stock category.

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: Europa Update Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 20:17:09 –0700 I removed the butterflys and shafts, made a small plug from aluminum and pressed them in. An easier way would be to remove the butterfly and grind it down such that its equal in width to the shaft except at the ends so the shaft won't slip out of the manifold. The shaft will give minimum resistance yet look functional from the outside. Your choice. As you're pretty clever, other solutions may present themselves. Just keep the holes plugged in some way. If you grind it down and replace the screws, make sure you loctite them in so they don't drift into the cylinders.
>
> 3) To remove the 'evaporative loss' stuff, I just undo all the hoses, right?

Uhh, no. Cap where you remove them from on the air box on the carbs, and the vaccuum lines to the carbs. The ones that lead to the gas tanks should have a long tube each leading down alongside the tanks to a small filter (like on your gas powered RC vehicle's fuel filter) to act as a flame trap (right Ken?). This is what I used on mine, can't see it, and it's light.

CARBERATERS, Manual

Steve Brightman <Steve.Brightman@dalsemi.com> Subject: Fuel Pump OK Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 11:07:42 -0500
Although you'll never find a Haynes manual for a Lotus, they do one on Stromberg carbs. I found it useful during those years I was unfortunate enough to own Strombergs.

JerTigger@aol.com Subject: Stromberg carb jets Date: Fri, 2 Apr 1999 23:23:45 EST I recently replaced the needles and jets in my carbs, couldn't get the tool to remove and replace jets. It was suggested to install the new jets by using a punch. This didn't look like it would work. I found that an 1/8" pipe nipple fit over the bottom of the jet and was able to drive them in perfectly, except one went in to far. OOPS! Now how too drive it back down without distorting the port. I ground down the threads down on the end of the nipple and it fit the circumference of the jet perfectly. Runs pretty good now.

Fjcoop@aol.com Subject: Re: Help - Carb Tuning Woes Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 00:06:58 EDT Another issue is needle wear. Over time the needle may rub and wear down the original profile, thus changing the mixture.

JerTigger@aol.com The jets tap out easily with a drift punch, to go back in an 1/8 inch pipe nipple fits nicely over the bottom of the jet and you end up applying the driving force squarely on the shoulder on the jet so you dot have to worry about distorting the jet.

"Landaiche Ken (Nokia/PL)" <ken.landaiche@dlcc.com> I have always used ATF, with reasonable results. Some Lotus types I respect highly use the recommended 20W50 motor oil.

"Landaiche Ken (Nokia/PL)" <ken.landaiche@dlcc.com> Subject: RE: Help - Carb Tuning Woes Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 12:10:49 –0700 The Stromberg needles are turned to an accuracy of 1/10,000". So it can be pretty hard to see or measure wear that affects emissions. On my last CA smog adventure, I ended up changing the jets and needles. It was the only thing that allowed the mixture to be set correctly. And as Mike described, the idle was sweet. Until the smog tester leaned it down to nothing!

Warren Pearce <pearceww@rmi.net> Subject: Re: Help - Carb Tuning Woes Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 18:36:07 –0600 Along with needle wear that Foster mentioned, is jet wear. As we all know, the Strombergs have a spring loaded needle that rubs the side of the jet. After a few years, the wearing of the circular hole in the jet to an oval was easily seen. I have replaced my jets at least twice. My thoughts would be to replace both. Also, I was able to pass the Colorado Smog testing by just leaning the mixture a bit and making sure the timing was right on. I have gathered that it is a good idea to retard the timing a bit, but I've never done any testing. It should be noted that on my TC, the sole purpose of the vacuum diaphragm on the distributor was to retard the timing by 5 degrees at idle. Once you came off idle, the vacuum advance went away.

Jon Lexau <jon.lexau@eng.sun.com> Subject: Re: Europa TC Carbs Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 09:38:15 -0700
kmccormick@cgsinc.com said: > I have a US spec 72 TC with Strombergs that again need attention. The car is running so rich it is fouling the plugs at idle even with higher heat range plugs. The problem is most likely the needle/jets but have not taken it apart for inspection yet. My questions are:

Jon Lexau <jon.lexau@eng.sun.com> Subject: Re: Help - Carb Tuning Woes ken.landaiche@dlcc.com said: > Did you do the replacing? And if so, what's the way to ge the right > depth?

I had mine replaced by Rich Kamp at Kampena Motors in San Francisco. Before I took the carbs in, I measured the depth of the jets to be 0.0875" from the bottom of the piston chamber to the lower part of the "step" at the top of the jet. Rich Kamp suggested that the new jets would be better if pressed in slightly further - he uses 0.050" to the top of the "step".

Bad ASCII art:
carburetor
now 0.05" ^ -- -----+ +----- ---
V --------- |+-+ +-+| ^ - was 0.0875"
|| | | || V
|| +-------+ || ----------
|| ||
|| jet ||

I found this note that I saved from Jerry Rein a while back about how he was able to change the jets ...JerTigger@aol.com said: > I found that an 1/8" pipe nipple fit over the bottom of the jet and was able to drive them in perfectly, except one went in to far. OOPS! > Now how too drive it back down without distorting the port. I ground down the threads on the end of the nipple and it fit the circumference of the jet perfectly.

Warren Pearce <pearceww@rmi.net> Subject: RE: Help - Carb Tuning Woes Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 17:42:07 -0600
Yep, Volvo jets work for the carbs. I used them some years ago. I used a depth gage to measure the depth of the original jets and then pressed the new ones in to the same depth. I agree that I didn't use a micrometer although that might have been a good idea. Rather, I used a vernier caliper. My feelings were (perhaps wrong - I'm sure I will find out now!!) that considering all the other variables, that I didn't need to seat them to a thousandths. I will save the other message with some precise measurements - glad to get that. Also, the bottom of the carb is set up to you can screw in a standard pipe and use an end cap to slowly move the jet in. As I remember (it was a long time ago) I put a lubricant on the jet to help press it in. I think (vague memories) that I used anti-seize compound.

JerTigger@aol.com Do yourself a favor and put new metering jets and needles in while you have the carbs apart. The needle wears on the side of the jet and wears them both down at the same time too small to see but makes a very big difference in running. Order complete rebuild kits plus needles and jets, the needle has a number on it if you pull out slightly the bottom.

"Phil Ethier" <pethier@isd.net> Subject: Re: Twink carbs Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1999 23:06:42 -0600

>My Federal Europa has Stromberg carbs on it. I've heard that they can be troublesome.

Replace them with new SUs. I'm serious. They are better-designed and more tunable. Should bolt on to the head designed for Strombergs, which is more than the Weber and the Weber-clones will do. Also, this keeps you legal for the A Street Prepared class in most USA autocrossing. The machine work needed to put a Weber on your head or the swap to a proper Weber head is not allowed.

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> As a side note, I found an article on adjusting the Temperature Compensators on the Triumph Maintenance Site. If interested: http://www.vtr.org/maintain/index.html will get you there. there are also articles on other british maintenance which applies ( brakes/touchup/washing/polishing).

From: "Jason Rowan" <jrowan@ix.netcom.com> On my S2, there are only two 1/4 inch (approx.) holes at the front of the
closing plate. So I guess Warren's plate was designed for all versions. And there's no extra hole for grounding on mine.

sean murray <snmurray@iol.ie> Subject: Lotus Archives Date: Mon, 8 Mar 1999 16:19:05 GMT
Everett Stephens wrote: Several people ahve noted that they obtained info on original color, assy date, etc. on their Elan. My PO knows very little about the car except what he did to it, and I happen to be an inquiring mind... How do I go about finding out more?

Write, with chassis number, to the Group Lotus archivist at this address :

Mr. Maurice Storey
Database Controller
Group Lotus Ltd.
Hethel
Norwich NR14 8EZ
England

"Rude, Gerald" <GDR1@pge.com> Subject: RE:Europa JPS Date: Mon, 8 Mar 1999 13:01:44 –0800 I too was mistaken about having a JPS. Mine is even the right color (Black/Gold) but to be a "real" JPS, it has to have a plaque on the dash, giving the number. I believe 100 were made for the US market, 100 domestic. It was another sales gimmick at the time which resulted in the Europa Special as we have. I really don't know any other difference between the JPS and the Special. Anyone else out there that can offer up some advice? Jerry Europa Special VIN 4005R

whs018@conrad.appstate.edu Subject: Re: Europa JPS is Special (U) Date: Wed, 10 Mar 1999 07:55:56 -0500 (EST) That's correct; the car does have the Big Valve engine. I do know some of the car's history. It was bought in May 8, 1974, in San Fransico. It was new. The documentation I have lists the car as VIN 4153 R, the color as Sable, and the interior oatmeal. Besides that, I can only find 3 other owners besides me, the last owner being my cousin. When he bought the car, he had it transported here to North Carolina because he was moving back. The car was dropped off at his mom's house and was simply never picked up!:-( Five years later I aquired the car from him (that was a few weeks ago). :-) Cheers, Aaron '74 Europa Special 4153 R

"Rude, Gerald" <GDR1@pge.com> Subject: (U) Cassette Water Pump Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 12:25:51 -0700
I just got off the phone with Ken at Bean, and the new cassette water pump, complete with new timing cover, new back plate and new cassette (with 907 innards) is to be shipped to me later this week !!

whs018@conrad.appstate.edu Subject: Coolants and Ignition Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 15:38:07 -0500 (EST) Today I saw an interesting product: Called propelene glycol, it is a type of coolant supposedly used in race cars. It has a boiling temp of more than 300 degrees and is said to transfer heat better than water. Another property being it doesn't create steam pockets around cylinders. Does anyone on the List use it? I don't know if it would work well in my Europa, but would keep it cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. Its also non-corrosive and non-toxic.

From: Harald Freise <hfreise@fox.nstn.ca> Don't know about the Twink but for the S2 an excellent substitute for the RHS coolant hose (the one that contains the thermostat) is from a 2 litre Cadillac Cimmeron. Yes, you read right Cadillac Cimmeron. I believe that there were a host of other period GM clone cars that had the same engine & body but I can't remember their names. The hose fits like it was made for the Europa S2 (and Gordini), thermostat and all.

From: "Mark MarKell" <Type46@micro-engineering.com> Subject: RE:Europa TC heater help needed Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 07:41:25 –0700 >Yes, I know I dot need a heater now but it gets cold here in the winter, 40-50.

40-50 cold? Gimme a break! That's shirt sleeve weather, and I don't even live close to Ethier and the Loons... ;<)

I've checked and flushed my system prior to putting in the anti-freeze by removing the two hoses at the engine end and driven water from a garden hose through the heater, valve and hoses staying out of the cockpit area entirely. The flow in a good system is hardly restricted at all and will pass a large volume quickly. These systems are pretty simple and if you have an internal block this is an easy way to find out. I'd check the valve first, simply because it's easiest to get to and check, the internal heat radiator second. BTW, the engine gets most of the water pump output and the heater is already restricted by tubing size, so almost any small internal blockage will severely reduce heat output. Garden hose pressure can either flush out or cram in particles, so you should first run the water into the heater outlet side, the tube that does NOT come from the water pump high pressure side. This will back-flush and tend to drive particles back out the direction they (presumably) entered. The last time I did this the Europa heater was working pretty well and I still got a ton of junk out in the first 15 seconds, and it cleared entirely in under a minute.

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: Europa TC heater help needed Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 19:28:22 -0700 JerTigger@aol.com wrote: My 72 TC has the heater valve missing, there is antifreeze in the heater core. Does anyone have a diagram that shows the connections, flow for the heater I > think something is missing the car heats up but doesn't blow hot air. I think something is missing.

"Mark MarKell" <Type46@micro-engineering.com> While looking at Bob Wells Europa autox car at WCLM it occured to me that his oil-to-water heat exchanger is almost identical in shape and size to the heat exchanger that is standard in Toyota MR2's. The MR2 exchanger is mounted on the rear bulkhead between the cockpit and engine and is a tubular
affair about 18" long with water connections out either end and oil connections at right angles on either end. It would fit easily, and similar to Bob's, alongside the engine, inline with the right hand water tube. The water tube would need to be shortened to bring it up further forward than its present position and a 'sandwich' adapter applied to the oil filter to bring out the oil lines. Very small, light possibility.

Steve Brightman <Steve.Brightman@dalsemi.com> Subject: RE: Otter switch Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 09:43:36 -0500
> How tight should the fit be between the otter switch and the grommet in the radiator? In the course of my rebuild, I was just about to pour coolant into the radiator of my Plus 2, when I noticed that I could remove the otter switch with no more force than using my fingers. <

That sounds about normal - mine has always come out quite easily. Thats why there's a spring clip to hold it in place - which IMO is way too flimsy to rely on and so I always put a safety wire around the switch. In spite of the fit I've never had any leaks there. Dry joint? No idea, unless they think if you add any lubricant it will let it slide back out easier or impede heat transfer to the sensor. In my business a dry joint is a definite no no!

The grommet for the otter switch that turns on the Europa radiator fan on, Lotus p/n A036K6027Z, does not have an interior lip. FYI, the Volvo grommet for the same type of switch, p/n unknown, does have an interior lip and the same ID and OD, thus appears suitable as a substitute. The interior lip should provide more security against having the otter switch "blow out" of the radiator. whartenstine@earthlink.net

Mark Hollingsworth <markh@olympus.net> Thanks to Harald, I now have a engine to transfer tube hose. Dayco # 71159. I think it is the lower radiator hose from a 86 Cadallac Cimmaron- 2 litre. I haven't tired it on yet, but it looks like it will work great.

Alan Watkins <awatkins@cerf.net> Subject: Re: Europa Waterpump Date: Tue, 30 Mar 1999 09:30:00 -0800
At 10:29 PM 3/29/99 -0800, Jerry Rude wrote: As all europa owners know, the dreaded water pump is the most dreaded fear of all. It requires removing the engine/trans and removal of the head and oil pan to access the front timing cover/water pump case.

Not so fast. I've had the timing chest off a Europa (Special 5 speed) without removing the engine block, for exactly this purpose (rebuilding the water pump). It's a little tricky but it's not impossible, and it's CERTAINLY easier than removing the transmission OR the engine (not to mention both), which I've also done several times. My recollection is that the only real clearance problem is with one of the coolant pipes, which simply needs to be temporarily bent out of the way and then bent back (or shortened and replace with a longer rubber coupler hose). Unfortunately (I guess) I sold that car about 6 years ago, so I'm relaying all this from memory. However, I didn't invent that disassembly and reassembly process; my recollection is that it was well known in the Europa community at the time, so I'm sure someone else can back me up.

"Alan Watkins" <awatkins@cerf.net> Subject: RE: Europa Waterpump Date: Tue, 30 Mar 1999 19:44:54 -0800
As I said in my earlier posting, yes I've done it, and I don't think it's any particular secret in the Europa world that it can be done (despite someone's earlier incorrect assertion that the engine must be removed). My recollection is that the only direct interference to the timing chest coming off is from one of the coolant pipes, which you can gently bend out of the way. However, I would advise not attempting this unless you've already done the associated disassembly and assembly on a TC engine where you *could* see what you are doing, since in the Europa you would be doing it with very poor visibility of the many fasteners, etc., that you'll be dealing with. Aside from the clearance and visibility problems provided by the Europa the
procedure is well documented in the various shop manuals and books (e.g. Wilkins) that cover the TC engine.

"Rude, Gerald" <GDR1@pge.com> Subject: Europa Waterpump Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1999 06:15:25 -0800
You are correct that you can change the waterpump without removing the engine, (it was me that said you must remove the engine), however, I would not recommend such a task. IMHO, after rebuilding the entire TC, that to try such a task is a bit sadistic :-). I really don't see why removing the engine is harder. Actually, removing this engine, where everything is accessable, is quite a pleasure in contrast to others I've done.

"Mark MarKell" <Type46@micro-engineering.com> Subject: RE:Europa waterpump Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1999 08:31:36 –0800 Pulling the engine and transaxle as a unit is not tough in a Europa and would allow you to A.) become more familiar with your new vehicle and B.) allow you to better evaluate any drivetrain problems and correct some things that may get much worse if the car is driven. If the car has sat for such a long time you may find the clutch is frozen to the flywheel, which is not uncommon and the Hooke joints at the axles may very well need replacing or at least lubed (a failure there is not fun!). It would allow close inspection of the shift mechanism and the flexible brake lines at the radius arms (excellent time to replace with braided lines). In any case I'd bet you'll feel safer if you've had the whole works out once. OTOH, try not to let such an occasion mushroom as it's very common for new owners to pull the whole works and get so involved in upgrading this and that as to not get it back together for years (yes, I've been there). Driving one of these cars, even not completely restored, is a delight and a great motivator!

My US$.02: I would agree with doable, but I'll never do it that way again. I'll remove the engine from now on. Hours (seems like) under a dripping in-car-engine is just no fun. davea@sgi.com

Randall Fehr <rsfehr@seanet.com> There is potentially less tension on the Europa TC water pump pulley because the tension is factory-designed if you use the correct pulleys and belt. There is potentially more tension on an Elan TC because owners and mechanics can over-tension the belt by swinging the generator out.

Mike Causer <mikec@dial.drakken.com> Subject: Re: Twink rebuild—update Date: Sun, 27 Jun 1999 22:54:47 +0100
Aaron Hines wrote: Has anyone used the toothed drive belt (sold by ???) that lowers the tension needed to drive the water pump, hopefully prolonging its life?

Yes, but only on race engines. Works fine, but make VERY sure that nothing comes into contact with it, particularly oil pipes! Neglect of this caused me once to go backwards down Silverstone's GP circuit instead of forwards round the Club circuit -- and an overnight repair session to get the car cleaned & fixed for the next day's race :-( For your Europa, I don't think it's worth it. Because the alternator is driven off the back of one of the camshafts you just don't have to put the tension into the water pump drive, and an ordinary V-belt should give sufficient drive with low enough tension to drive the water pump without loading it up. On a Europa TC I'd expect the pump to last at least 60k miles, not the < 30k that an Elan can do.

g ford <gmfmo@mweb.co.za> I was surprised that the instrument panel forms a structural member and if indeed this is correct will alter my thinking on how to replace the rotten plywood.
The dash facia is indeed a structural member, though maybe not much more than a stiffener for that part of the body. I think it provides a tie between the windshield and the frame and doors to stiffen things and prevent scuttle shake and the like. Note that there is a steel band which bolts to the bottom of the dash and goes all the way across the car, and the bolting to the frame behind the ashtray. Marine plywood should be strong enough, if you can find it in the right thickness, but then you have to veneer it also. I think mine is a maple hardwood beneath the mahogony veneer, having about 5 or 6 plys. You can buy the whole dash panel, complete and finished. It would save you alot of work. In looking at the panel with the gages and everything out, it is very flimsy. I think the steel band and the center section the only real structural parts. Jerry Rude

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: [lotuseuropa] Europa TC charging circuit help needed Date: Mon, 07 Jun 1999 21:27:35 –0700 JerTigger@aol.com wrote: I recently put the instruments back in the car. When I start the car and run it about 1000 rpm the charge indicator lite is on and the ammeter doesn't budge. Rev the car up to about 2000rpm then charge lite goes out and ammeter shows charge. Let car back down to 1000 rpm and lower it still charges. Shut car off restart and it doesn't charge again until it revs up again. I don't know how it worked before as the old ammeter was bad and I had to have the alternator repaired I don't think the charging lite worked before either.

"SMITH, THOMAS B. (JSC-DX)" <thomas.b.smith1@jsc.nasa.gov> If you are not familiar with the voltage regulator, I would take the whole alternator to your local auto parts store, as most will check it out for free (in US, anyway). I don't know if they will give you a diagnosis, but it may tell you something. You can try to bypass the VR, to see if it will charge below 2000 RPM, but I am not familiar with the Lucas design (some switch the ground and others switch the positive supply to the rotor).

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> The TC Delco one has a solid state one. But different from the typical Chevy/GM alternator one. I understand you can swap them though, I think there is a Lotus Ltd article in their Europa manual. The fact that he can charge at the lower rpm following a high rpm burst may suggest loose/broken connection somewhere also. They come apart rather easily, and have internal connections which could be suspect.

"SMITH, THOMAS B. (JSC-SP)" <thomas.b.smith1@jsc.nasa.gov> I agree that the external connections could be loose, but if it is like the typical GM alternator, the internal connections are bolted, which IMHO would be less prone to vibration/loose connections.

EUROPA7T@aol.com Subject: B-B-b-bad Horn (U) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 1999 03:20:27 EST
>Steve Shipley wrote: Everything works. I'd never have figured out the bad ground that kept the horn from working. And now I've got a tach, speedo, and hand brake.

Tom Rollins <tom@ntcs-inc.com> I don't know about all of these Items, but there is one thing I ran into when working on my front suspension that might help. The front wiring harness grounds into the front skid plate that covers the gap between the nose underside, and the "T" section of the frame. Since the ground wire connects to the plate, and the plate to the chassis, you have to make sure you have a good connection. After I repainted my front suspension parts, including the front skid plate, my lights, front fan, turn signals and dash indicators didn't work properly. I ended up sanding the paint off of the ground connection and one of the bolt holes and then assembled with dielectric grease. I also ran into similar grounding problems after reinstalling my engine and gearbox. I think that many of your problems might be traced to bad connections/grounds. Tom Rollins 1974 Lotus Europa Special 4158R

"Mark MarKell" <Type46@micro-engineering.com> MANY, if not most, of the electrical problems in these cars are caused by bad grounds due to the annoying notion of the time that the chassis was a fine grounding point. I had similar problems as you've described and spent a half day with a Dremel and rotary brush just cleaning connections, including the inside surfaces of each and every light socket and push on connector. The rear lights in the S1 had been factory wired with the ground going to the light mounting bolt and ignored the grounding tab directly beside it. None of those lights worked, but all worked after fixing the ground. The flashers may start to work fine once the lights themselves work, as they depend on the proper number and size bulbs being attached in each circuit. Too few and no flashing occurs, too many and the flash rate is very high. Don't even worry about either the flashers or hazard lights till after all lamps work. Remove the flasher (make a drawing if it's not in a socket!) until all the lamps are working. Then if it doesn't work replace the flasher last. Dashboard problems are also often grounding problems as the instrument grounds are often attached to the instrument mounting screws instead of grounding ears. The tach, at least, has a separate grounding ear that may need cleaning. The car originally had a small horn forward. The air horns were probably an aftermarket addition and may or may not have eliminated the original. It's a good idea to run air horns through a relay to save the horn button contacts, so look for one and see what was done. A quick and dirty method of looking for grounding problems is to get about 10 feet of heavy (18 ga) stranded wire and attach one end SOLIDLY to the negative terminal at the battery. Then go around testing things and manually ground metallic parts of things that don't work such as the window motor, the rim of instruments or the case of taillight pods. Any change of operation implies a bad ground somewhere. It's really important to realize that bad connections often only appear bad when significant current is being passed through them. Either a power or a ground connection may look fine with a meter until the circuit is energized, so test with the appliance in question turned on and a voltmeter rather than using the ohmmeter on a dead circuit. Those points that are on the ground side of any appliance will read a higher voltage under load if the ground is bad as the ground point is 'floating'. BTW, someone mentioned dielectric grease. If your local parts dealer doesn't have any (or know what it is) just try a local electrical contractor or electrical supply store (non-automotive) as it's commonly used in house wiring (by code requirement) on high current aluminum wiring at residence entry.

"SMITH, THOMAS B. (JSC-SP)" <thomas.b.smith1@jsc.nasa.gov> Head lights and front markers use a common ground (on my S2 anyway), which is usually attached to the steering column bracket, so first thing would be to check for corrosion, etc. Also check the little bullet connectors up underneath the front section (removing the bonnet makes this easier, but is a two person job, unless you are very careful, or rig a rope up to your garage ceiling). You can also run a wire directly from the negative battery terminal to the ground wires (black) to test if the problem lies with the positive or negative side. The bulkhead light (interior) uses pin switches on the doors which supply ground. First check the bulb, then the pin switches. They get corroded and do not make good contact...you can sometimes get them to work with a wire brush. Does yours have a manual on/off switch? If so, and if it still doesn't work, supect the bulb, or positive supply. Also, the PO may have disconnected them, in a poor attempt to disable the chime/buzzer.

Aaron Hines <whs018@conrad.appstate.edu> Anyway, my Europa had EXACTLY the same problem. It came from a bad ground and/or connections in the front. The main ground was attached to the temp sensor/plug in the radiator. I haven't permenately fixed mine yet, but I have found the problem. Try hooking a suitable wire (14 Gauge, at least!) to the neg. terminal of the battery and putting an aligator clip on the other end. Make your lead long enough to reach to the front of the car. Look for black wires that aren't connected and try hooking the test wire to them...but one at a time. Also, try unhooking the bullet connectors and removing oxidation from them. Put dielectric grease on them before you reconnect them! Hope this helps!

ClassMaker@aol.com In a message dated 4/19/99 11:35:07 AM Eastern Daylight Time, thomas.b.smith1@jsc.nasa.gov writes: > What might cause this? Ive cleaned the relay contacts in the regulator, and > checked the main wires and terminals for corrosion, etc. Thanks,

I used to have the same problem, in my 1970 Europa S2, then in my 1976 Elite 503. (I think it is rough modulation in the regulator.) I simply *replaced* the regulator. It was generic, cheap, under $10. On the Europa, I'm actually on my third regulator, counting the original, factory unit. Those contacts don't hold up forever. My Elite uses the Chrysler alternator & regulator (also 3 terminals, but solid state, no relay points). A *good* solid-state regulator (Borg Warner) cost
me more... over $20, IIRC -- but it works well. hope this helps, ken ritchie atlanta

Harald Freise <hfreise@fox.nstn.ca> I had a regulator failure and ended up going to the local auto parts
jobber. I wanted a direct replacement for the unit that failed in the car. I ended up with a Wilson #62-03-2600 which certainly looks the part. Additional markings on the body are M107 71941A C524. Black body about 2.5" x 1.5" x 1 3/4", one terminal for FLD, the other for IGN with a base ground. I thought it was NOS mechanical unit with a coil and contacts but, curious me, peeked inside and found the guts to be simple electronics. I remember that they were very inexpensive @ CDN$10.40 each last year. The cross reference is early '60's Chrysler products and was intended to be installed on the firewall. The fluorescent orange warning label has all sorts of Warnings about proper grounding of the base but including:
"DO NOT ATTEMPT TO POLARIZE a charging system that uses an alternator." This HAS to be old technology! :0 Harald

ELECTIRCAL, Window motors

From: g ford <gmfmo@mweb.co.za> This explanation of my problem which was self inflicted may stop others repeating my stupidity. The Motor has 2 spade lugs on it. It is a split series motor. Each lug is connected to either end of the field coil. The switching is arranged to put power on to one coil end for up and the other end for down. return current path is via the armature and the earth of the motor case. Powering up both ends of the coil is virtually a dead short. This results in
burnt finger and flash marks on my everyday car battery terminals. When all else fails read the book !

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: Electrical Problems Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 20:49:17 -0700
Aaron Hines wrote: 1) When the key is turned to the 'I' position, the small indicators between the tach and speedo come on like the lights are on. But the lights aren't on. The front and side indicators light up (outside), but nothing else.

ClassMaker@aol.com Subject: Tech article - Lucas colours IN COLOR Date: Wed, 7 Apr 1999 13:56:58 EDT
I found a way-cool *colorized* colour code chart, a derivative of the Dimebank info, from an MG nut... http://www.mgb.bc.ca/service/lucas-colours.html "Lucas Wiring Guide" -- that chart, printed in color, is the best version I've seen yet. They also list the address for British Wiring Inc (in Illinois, USA) and a couple other vendors for appropriate wires.

Randall Fehr <rsfehr@seanet.com> Subject: RE: Electrical Problems Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 21:52:42 -0700
I have replaced several Lotus harnesses with new reproductions when the existing harness was baked/burned/hacked sufficiently to warrant new, but the majority of the time spent was actually in repairs to "appliances": corroded contacts in lamps and connectors, diagnosis of faults extraneous to the harness itself, innumerable PO "fixes", etc etc. In other words,
electrical malfunctions are rarely attributable to the harness itself unless it had experienced a meltdown (caused by an extraneous short) and/or bad previous repair attempts. So a new harness, whether original spec or home-made, is probably not necessary and certainly not the efficient approach in Aaron's case. Note that Lucas color-coded wire and bullet connectors, lamp plugs, grommets, harness tape, clips & sundries are all available for authentic repairs. My favorite supplier (in North America) is British Wiring near Chicago, phone 708-481-9050. They also stock harnesses for Elans, Europas
and some other Lotuses.

JerTigger@aol.com When I got my car I had the same problems with the electrical system. The first thing I did was stand on my head and try to figure out the electrtical system Ha Ha what a joke!! A suggestion is first to get the repair manual theere are wiring diagrams in it that are very close. Gave me a good start. Then I removed the dash so I could see what I had. Lots of extra wires. Hooked up everything without the dash got out my test light and VOM It is amazing how much easier to trouble shoot if you can see. Get Numbered wire markers before you start, also ran a new 6 gauge ground
wire up from the battery and r grounded everything in front.

daren stone <dastone@cisco.com> Subject: Great US source for wiring, was: Europa wiring Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 10:50:25 –0700 For those of you who've seen John Zender's Europa in its latest incarnation you may have noticed that the wiring harness has the application embossed every 4 inches on each wire (ex:headlights, brake lights, etc.). Thus, in addition to being color-coded, you don't need a schematic to know what wire goes where. John got this wire from a place I found at one of the local Hot Rod shows, which in addition to selling the wire in bulk, they will happily make up a kit for you to re-wire the entire car. Having installed one of these kits on an heavily modified old truck I have, I have to say their quality is top-notch.

Enos Custom Components
840A Capitolio Way
San Luis Obispo, Calif. 93401 USA
805-544-8503

Note: although they do have standard colors for each of the applications, they will make up custom color/application wires upon request.

"Mark MarKell" <Type46@micro-engineering.com> 'Don't get in too big a hurry now. It will save you lots of time and money later. On the fuel pump blanking plate, you can leave the old pump in to fill the hole till you do have time to build one or buy one. Just disconnect your plumbing and stick vacuum caps over the ports. If it's entirely shot it won't try to pump air anywhere, and it will rob a miniscule amount of power from the cam. I'd recommend the Facet pump as well. Have never heard anything bad about it. Whatever electric pump you get, be careful where you wire it in. The wrong place will kill the tach operation. If it fits... an easy replacement: a nice quality *brass* tee, some rubber fuel hose, some "Ideal" brand hose clamps (you can find those at some of the auto-parts stores) -- I like the quality and finish (and slotted hex head screw) of the Ideal brand clamps -- better than the look-alikes. Renew rubber fuel hoses every two or three years for safety. Cheers, ken

Fjcoop@aol.com Subject: Re: (U)Europa Twin cam engine rebuilding Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 15:59:38 EDT
One absoluete no-no concerning the head (actually 2): Do not bead blast!! Do not hot dip - cold dip only to clean it up!

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Just don't forget the oil return tube? What type of gasket sealer? I used Kopper Koat spray on this time. The well seal was OK I guess, but the copper flecks seem alittle better, especially if you have any small scratches or flaws. Important thing is not to turn the cams independently of eachother without watching for interference (bent two the last time) and make sure the pistons won't be hitting the valves when dropping the head on. And use the guide rods, it makes things so much better.

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Warren Hartenstine wrote:
> By the way, Jerry, I used wooden dowel rods for the guide rods. Seemed to work fine! Price was right! Was it you who cut off some bolts and cut a screw slot into the bolt shank?

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: [lotuseuropa] Europa Update Date: Mon, 07 Jun 1999 21:38:51 -0700
I would not recommend you send the head to anyone except a shop that does these things on a regular basis. Ask me, I just had mine done by what I thought was a "qualified" man. It took 6 months, and I had to redo the cam buckets after. Send it out.. Ask Ray at R&D or Don Tingle at Tingle Lotus..... you will be money ahead in the end.... The block, however, and pistons, etc. can be done locally. It should be done, however, by a british mechanic as the tolerences are tighter than on some american iron. The headlight problem can be traced to a bad ground, very common in all brands of cars. The "MOST" you can bore a TC block is .040 inch. Do not try to go further, overheating and distortion will result!!! You can sleeve the
cylinders, however, but make sure you purchase the right sleeves and have them installed by a competent shop. Don't get the "cheap" sleeves most shops offer. Get them from a reputable Lotus dealer and have the machine shop install them per the instructions with the sleeves. That way, when it comes time to replace the sleeves, you can pop the old out and in with the new. Also, when doing sleeves, skim alittle from the head surface to make sure things are flat. Check the rod bores. Mine were out on one rod. It really makes a difference in oil pressure!!

Fjcoop@aol.com Subject: Re: Europa Engine Removal Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1999 12:27:55 EST In a message dated 99-03-31 09:55:05 EST, whs018@conrad.appstate.edu writes: > What's the best/easiest way to remove the engine?

Depending upon your facilities and equipment, you may want to strip the engine down to the block before removing it (as well as when you out it back together). This means removing the head as well. To install it, it helps to make up a couple of guides (weld some thin rod to the threads from a bolt of hte proper size to screw into the block in place of the head bolts.
Much easier this way if you are doing it by yourself.

"Mark MarKell" <Type46@micro-engineering.com> Here's the photo referred to below. http://www.micro-engineering.com/S1enginepull.jpg Sorry if the one is hard to see. Too much low contrast.

"Matthew Bowden" <matthew_bowden@msn.com.au> Aaron wrote: +>From what I saw in your pictures, you just unbolt the bell housing and engine mounts and go up, correct? Seems as easy as dropping out the bottom except you have to unbolt the transaxle/clutch housing or either take out the brace. BTW, you don't have to remove the brace holding the shocks to get it out the top do you?

Well, you'll need to move the transmission back to clear the input shaft - so you'll have drop the rear suspension, drive out the roll pins on the driveshafts and pull them clear, disconnect the gearlinkage/speedo cable/reversing light leads, release the rear gearbox mount (5 speed may be different, I'm talking 4 speed transaxle) at least. I don't know about others on the list, but I'd be tempted to pull the gearbox/engine as a complete unit, as I would say it would be just about as easy! You could then inspect the gearbox/clutch/thrust bearing/gearbox input shaft oil seal for wear and tear. Remember, always replace the gearbox input shaft oil seal when you split the engine/gearbox! It doesn't cost much, and can save a lot of heartache (and a slipping clutch) Probably the twin-cam crank oil seal would be good to check as well. I'd pull the bellhousing off the transaxle and inspect the box for visible wear/tear/water intrustion. Check the dif for missing teeth, I've seen a few
go that way with exuberant driving!

"Michael R. Downs" <mrdowns@worldnet.att.net> Hi, I've been following this thread for awhile and just have to put my 2 cents in. I bought my first Europa (a 72 Twin Cam) as a basket case with the engine disassembled, all of the brakes stuck, and many electrical problems. I was able to get the car on the road fairly quickly (about 6 months) but still had a list of problems to sort out as I drove it around. It took about 4 years and more money than I want to know about to get the car completely sorted. A Lotus project car is not for the faint of heart. That said, a Lotus project such as a Europa is a fairly simple car to work on. Everything is fairly straight forward (except for the twink water pump) and easy to get to and understand how it all works and goes together. I would highly recommend the Twin Cam book by Miles Wilkins if you plan to go through the TC. I recently went through a TC for my Elan and believe that I spent somewhere around $3k for all of the head work, machine work on the block, and new parts. I had a local machine shop do the head work the first time on my Europa and was never satisfied with the performance. Since then, I have sent the Europa head and the Elan head out to JAE and let them get the head work done with very good results. On my Europa, I took the engine and transaxle out the top of the car the first time and then out the bottom 2 other times. Taking the engine and transaxle out the bottom is much easier!! I have a small roll around moving cart that I put under the engine and then lower the car down onto the cart. I disconnect the motor mounts, rear suspension, and transaxle mounts and then raise the rear of the car up with a chain hoist and roll out the engine and transaxle. I have done this by myself in my garage with no problems. A well sorted Europa is a very fun car to drive. You will enjoy the car once that you have it completed but it will take a large commitment from you to get there. Good Luck!!

"Mark MarKell" <Type46@micro-engineering.com> Subject: Dad Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 11:04:12 -0700
Yes, the cross brace needs to be removed, but that's really pretty simple. There's a number of wires, linkage and other bits to release first and once supported it is easiest if at least one motor mount is entirely removed from both the support and the motor. Some folks have removed transaxles separately, but my experience says to take both at once. In my shop I built a 2' x 4' table about 18 inches high (completely free standing so I can drag it around) and use it for all my motor work (up to the point I need to rotate to the oil pan at which time I use an engine stand). This table allows me full access around the entire engine and transaxle as a unit. Makes things much easier at assembly time. If you're going to pull the engine and transaxle borrow a clutch alignment tool (request it on the mailing list) as it will really make re-assembly much easier. I have a tool
I'd gladly send, but it's for the Renault engine. Check with Jerry Rude. The tool is inexpensive, usually plastic, and the usual problem is just finding the correct part number for your local part supplier. Someone on the list may be able to supply that number.

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Subject: Twink E(U)ropa removal Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 22:47:42 -0700
The engine is really fairly easy once you get the knack. I just pulled mine Saturday in about 4 hours, and that was taking my time. This is the sequence IIRC:

Remove the hood by using a small drift on the pins, make sure you drive them out the right direction.

Remove the luggage compt.

Disconnect the ground side of the battery.

Disconnect the wiring to the distributor, starter, transaxle,alternator, water temp sending unit.

Warren Pearce <pearceww@rmi.net> Subject: Re: Twink Rebuild--Help Needed Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 20:09:54 –0600 On several occasions (including now for a new water pump/block rebuild that should be completed in a week or 2) you can drop the engine - gearbox out the bottom of the car. As I remember, there are the basic steps:

1. Pull the starter motor, head, and exhaust system.

2. Set the car up on 4 good chassis stands.

3. Disconnect all the things that attach to the engine - gearbox except for the motor mounts, water hoses, axles, gear box attachment bolts to the frame.

4. Put a good chassis jack under the center of the gear box and support it.

5. Pull all but 2 of the bolts attaching the bell housing to the block.

6. Loosen the remaining bell housing - block bolts.

7. Loosen but do not remove the 2 bolts attaching the motor mounts to the frame.

8. Remove the nuts on the bolts between the rear of the gearbox and the frame.

9. Support the gear box with the chassis jack.

10. Remove all the remaining bolts between the gear box and the chassis/engine block.

11. Carefully, tilt the engine/gear box assembly down so the rear of the gear box is below the frame. You will need to really loosen the nuts on the motor mount bolts so they can tilt enough.

12. Carefully, slide the gear box away from the block and lower it to the ground. The axles will slip off the gear box. Don't drop the gear box! If you do, you may cry a lot.

13. Place the jack under the block and support the engine.

It's been a long time since I put my TC together, but I don't think the jack shaft plays any part in the timing sequence of the engine, so I don't think it matters what the orientation is. In the cross-flow/non cross-flow, it did matter. As long as you reinstalling the head, you may also want to consider degreeing the cams since they are probably off from the factory. From what I hear, this can net you some increased power. The usual sources sell offset cam dowels specifically for this reason. There is an article on the GGLC web site (http://www.best.com/~gglotus/ggtech/index.htm#Twincam called "Dialing in Cams" that runs through this procedure. The dowel pin kits also come with instructions.

ClassMaker@aol.com, Subject: Re: Europa Exhaust Tuning notes (U), Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 10:02:18 EST
Andy wrote about Colin Campbell's data, > What wonderful information (from Campbell's book)! Just to be sure, the lengths that you give for exhaust end at the muffler, right?

If there's a muffler, it should be included, as it does participate, albeit with damping. Example: Jay Mitchell added a "stinger" tail pipe to his S2 (after the muffler) and reported dramatic improvements. BTW, I noticed Campell's book was revised in 1969 and reprinted in 1970 -- exactly the same vintage as my Europa (built in 1969, sold in 1970 model year).

[page 59] The silencer --
"For maximum power, we require a straight-through system. The use of an absorption type silencer (glass-pack or hollywood) provides the system with the lowest pressure drop, but the effectiveness as a silencer is often in doubt, especially in the low-frequency end of the audible note range."

[page 59] Ramming exhaust pipes --
"With a straight-through silencer only a small fraction of the amplitude of the original pulse is damped by the absorption material of the silencer, although the amplitude of the pulse does become of negligible size after three or four reflections."

That's what I'm running. A generic, welded "bullet" Walker brand. At first, I used "Thrush" (hey, they were *cheap* and *light*) but they were made like a tin can -- squared ends are less efficient, and the thin sheet metal rusts out as quickly as the rolled seams. Cheers, ken

Mark Hollingsworth <markh@olympus.net>, Re: Europa Exhaust Tuning notes (U), Tue, 2 Mar 1999 08:21:05 –0800

ClassMaker@aol.com >BTW, I noticed Campell's book was revised in 1969 >and reprinted in 1970 -- exactly the same vintage as >my Europa (built in 1969, sold in 1970 model year).

From: Kiyoshi Hamai <khamai@tsoft.com> Subject: Re: HELP - Need twink advice Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 20:39:43 -0700
In-Reply-To: <0FDF002KDV8QVU@mail.hac.com> As Dr. Rod has diagnosed the valve clearanced on a fresh twink do settle in after 300-500 miles. It's common to see 1-2 thou reduction. When check valve clearances do:
1) rotate the engine by hand in the correct direction
2) measure the clearance with the cam lobe pointing away from the bucket tappet
3) clean the feeler gauge before inserting, wiping off excess oil

dan.morrison@autodesk.com Chris Munson and Mark Markell found some at the Detroit Diesel dealer. Emails below.
It never fails to amaze me that access to the people on this list have such a diverse knowledge that someone can almost always come up with simple solutions to finding parts for 30 year old designs. Who would've thought of going to Detroit Diesel for Europa parts??! Went in to the Pacific Detroit Diesel office in Portland and picked up all the shims I needed. My
Lotus sources were quoting $1.25/shim, these were $.24/shim, in stock. They are indistinguishable from the shims that came out of the car, except they're a lot shinier! 8<)))One correction however, the original list had the same number twice. See the correction below.

Chris Munson wrote: The shims used for adjusting the blowers for Detroit Diesels ( inline 71 ) are of the required dimensions, come in .002" to .010" packs and work fine. They are readily available from Detroit Diesel parts counters. Try these part numbers with them. They should be current, but if not they should be able to reference them from these ones.

3.4090 - shim, blower rotor gear
5150372 - shim .002"
5153938 - shim .003"
5150856 - shim .005" incorrect. Should be: 5150855 - shim .005"
5150856 - shim.010"

ClassMaker@aol.com, Subject: Re: Europa Exhaust Tuning notes (U), Date: Sun, 28 Feb 1999 01:24:37 EST
Paul wrote: I will use a custom header and straight pipe exhaust in place of the cast iron manifold/muffler.

Excellent. Putting in a 4-2-1 or 4-into-1 header will give you much better extraction. Let me recommend, even with straight pipe, that you make it a little longer than just going straight out the back. Do a lazy "S" curve across the transaxle (above it, below the trunk basket) and exit next to the opposite tail lens. You may notice a significant improvement if you do some experiments!

PS: This works for Twin Cams, too. Check those lengths! Here are some notes I've shared with Jay Mitchell (S2). Well, I found my notebook. So, now I can relate actual measurements and reference. Actually measured in 1974...

Intake run about 16-1/4" from valve to trumpet. Exhaust run approximately 80" (depends on tip). Both of these tend to maximize ram at 5700 RPM.

Here's the book reference...

Colin Campbell, THE SPORTS CAR - ITS DESIGN AND PERFORMANCE, 3rd Edition (revised) 1969, Reprint 1970
Hardcover, 305 pages, Chapman and Hall, Ltd (London)

Chapter 3 "The Engine: Induction and Exhaust" Page 56 shows a graph for intake ram, Figure 3.15
5000 RPM maps to 19"
5500 RPM maps to 17"
6000 RPM maps to 15+"

So that's where I interpolated my 5700.

He notes that the DBR1 Aston Martin has an induction pipe length of 17" - giving 5500 as a maximum ram point, and finding (dyno) peak of power curve about 1000 RPM higher. The rule of thumb is to maximize ram just BEFORE reaching the PEAK POWER, etc. etc.

Page 64 shows a table for resonant exhaust pipe length. He notes that 4 into 1 and 4-2-1 collectors are treated equally, provided cylinders are paired so 2 & 3 combine, as do 1 & 4.

At t=270 degrees, here are the translations:
4000 RPM at 115"
5000 RPM at 92"
5200 ~ 88." (guessing curve)
5400 ~ 84.5"
5600 ~ 81.5"
5800 ~ 79."
6000 RPM at 77" (actually 76.5" in the text)
7000 RPM at 66"

My 80" measurement interpolates to about 5700. To hit 5500, it looks like something close to 83". Campbell's data is empirical, and does not account for valve timing, valve and runner diameters, and so on. Still, it seems to "validate" the general dimensions. Close enough to have fun on a budget. Someday, I'll get to fool with a dyno. Cheers, ken ritchie, atlanta

Steve Shipley <shiples@home.com> Subject: Re: Europa Engine Removal Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1999 07:01:03 -0800
There's a procedure in the shop manual. Tell me you have a shop manual! You do have the shop manual, right? Have you considered a SuperTrap for a muffler? They're tunable I understand. While tuning for performance, you might find an exhaust note you enjoy.

ClassMaker@aol.com whs018@conrad.appstate.edu writes: BTW, what kind of flow rate do I need for an electrical pump?

Check the Bean (DBE) catalog -- get one if you don't have one. SU "AUX" series (prefer lifetime electronic over mech. points) is rated sufficient to 150 HP. That's plenty for a street twink. Fuel pressure delivery at 3 pounds +/- 1/2 pound should do it. I've got the SU electronic in my 1976 Elite, 2-liter "907" motor. I've got a Bendix/Facet upright shuttle pump in my 70 Europa. Both have been super reliable.

Harry <traff@ICON.HMSD.UFL.EDU> Subject: RE: Europa Update Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 17:02:14 -0400
1) There is a rubber piece that splits the fuel flow into the carbs. It was cracked, so we tried to find a replacement. No one has anything that will come close to working. Where can I get one of these at?

At the auto parts store, you can get brass fuel line fittings and a 'T' block. Screw it all together and you'll probably have what you need. Don't trust the plastic fittings. Many a Lotus has been lost to fire because of these. If the fuel lines are stiff and dried out, you may want to replace these, also.

3) To remove the 'evaporative loss' stuff, I just undo all the hoses. right?

A short speech about removing emissions equipment. In states with emissions testing, cars will fail the visual test, if things have been removed. Before Florida had this testing, people would remove this equipment. Now these cars won't pass the tests, and if you want to keep the car, this stuff needs to reinstalled. Also, any cars with missing parts are not easy to sell. As much as I'd like to buy a modern classic, if the PO has removed the emissions parts, I could not buy the car. Also, consider the legal ramifications; It is a Federal offense to remove emissions equipment. I'm not preaching, but just stating the obvious. For my Eclat to be legal in Florida, I will now need to reinstall the evaporative charcoal cannister and hoses, the fuel filler restrictor plate, and have a working catalytic converter.

I also need to comment on your desire to restore and resurrect this Lotus classic. I applaud your resolve, especially considering that most people your age would want to have some "hot wheels" Honda or something just as horrible. It will be a labor of love, something you'll be able to brag on for many years to come. Your friends will not understand "The Lotus
Position, "Lotus tool #1", nor why you just want to go out and sit in the car and caress the steering wheel that will somehow transfer Lotus history into your bones, so you will be forced to come to us to tell of your triumphs. We understand. We know the joys and frustrations. We are here for you. Good luck. Harry '78 Eclat

Ken Landaiche <ken.landaiche@dlcc.com> RE: Europa JPS is Special (U) Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 13:32:37 -0800
How did Lotus make the compression ratio change? Was the federal head thicker than the ROW head? (What an interesting question.) And would it be worth increasing the compression on my stock 1974 Europa Twin Cam?

BTW, I read an interesting article in one of the car mags. It argued that the USA 93 octane wasn't much different from the European 98 octane because each region uses different methods for measuring octane, R+M/2 in the USA and M in Europe, if I remember correctly. The difference in octane between the two regions, if using the same scale, is around one point, 93 to 94 octane. IF that is true, then would increasing the TC compression run into any problems?

Lorne Mason <l.mason@dial.pipex.com> Subject: Re: Leaded petrol & Water injection Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 11:31:47 Additives to replace the lead will be available soon: Zero Lead 2000, Red Line, Millers VSP Plus and Valvemaster.
All 900 series engines will run on Super unleaded. Twincams and Renaults won't. (Source - Club Lotus' Technical Adviser).

ClassMaker@aol.com OTOH, I believe the R16's do run OK on Super. They have aluminum heads. The seats are steel. I buy BP "Super Unleaded" here in the US. (93 pump octane, average of RON & MON) I've used other 93's, Texaco, QT, Chevron. I run a Federal 907 (but Dellortos) and a high compression (11:1) R16 Europa motor which also has a 3/4 cam (288 degrees) and a Weber 45DCOE. Perhaps overlap is helping, but I've never had any knock. The timing is *not* retarded on either car. They run at least 45 degrees full advance. Idle "CO" readings are 3.5 to 4.5 % and I set them up around 1100 rpm. ...and I drive the snot out of both of them!!!

"Jay Mitchell" <jemitchell@compuserve.com> The superstition wrt unleaded gas and valve seat wear never ceases to amaze me. ANY engine that is equipped with hardened steel insert valve seats - i.e., almost every engine with an aluminum alloy cylinder head - can run unleaded fuel with no ill effect. The effects of running unleaded fuel are actually very positive:
since the engine oil is not being contaminated with combustion byproducts specifically caused by lead, the oil won't degrade
nearly as much or as rapidly. Additionally, all major brands of modern unleaded gasoline have very effective additives for preventing carbon buildup. Your engine will stay much cleaner and wear less as a result of use of modern fuel.

ClassMaker@aol.com Plus -- the plug cones don't glaze over like they used to with lead!

Marvin Wong <marvinw@proaxis.com> Subject: Re: Leaded petrol & Water injection Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 21:02:51 –0700 The US changed to strictly unleaded a long time ago and besides the octane of the available fuel getting less, there was an issue for older engines without hardened valves & seats. The lead provides some lubrication for these. Unleaded will decrease their life, at least that's what we were told on this side of the pond in the '70s.

Mark Reichert <markr@lightlink.com> > Can anyone reccommend a gas tank cleaner/etcher/sealer that > works good?

My experience is that the stuff by Kreem is not so good. The POR-15 brand seems to be working well. (www.por15.com).
You might also be able to find something good from Eastwood. Good luck, --Mark

My tank sat for a few months after applying the Kreem coating - while I hunted down a replacement fuel level sender (Big thank you to Don Tingle). When I was finally ready to put it all together, I observed that the Kreem coating had detached from the tank and cracked in several places. Removing it, most of it came out in sheets. It might just be that the Kreem stuff wants to see fuel sooner in its lifetime, but I'll never trust it again. --Mark

>Mark Reichert <markr@lightlink.com> >> Can anyone reccommend a gas tank cleaner/etcher/sealer that works good? My experience is that the stuff by Kreem is not so good.

Why? It is working OK for me. Or so I think.

>The POR-15 brand seems to be working well. (www.por15.com)

I'd expect that. The paint is great.
>
>You might also be able to find something good from Eastwood.

Hmm. I thought they sold Kreem. Phil Ethier pethier@isd.net http://www.visi.com/mac/

Scott Mitchell <scott@fortner.com> >Try Aircraft Spruce and Specialties. I think they have a web site, but I don't have the url handy. Not surprisingly it is: http://www.aircraft-spruce.com

zigglu@us.ibm.com Subject: RE: Gas tank cleaning Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 16:17:22 -0400
You can use heavy duty paint stripper to loosen up the gunk from the bottom and wash it off with water. Any loose rust can be knocked by putting a few bolts inside and shaking the tank vigorusly... You can order the Gas Tank Liner Coating from JC Whitney... see http://www.jcwhitneyusa.com/ for contact info. JC Whitney carries couple different kits: 1. Liquid Liner Kit with tank prep kit - part# 97-5714NF price: $26.95 (I never used this kit, the advertising does not state that it is alcohol resistive... you are on your own...) 2. Gas Tank Sealer (alcohol resistive) - part# 12-8316Y price: $22.92 (I always use this one and I am happy with the results. One container is large enough to coat both tanks with at least two coats....)

Also check out http://www.por15.com They have products for gas tank sealing (and rust preventive coatings for outside the tank). I have heard good things about on the coating (por15) but have no real info on the gas tank sealing stuff other than the catalog (which is online). davea@sgi.com

Jon Lexau <Jon.Lexau@Eng.Sun.COM> Subject: Re: Lumention installed & distributor problem Date: Thu, 01 Apr 1999 20:19:11 –0800 gdrude@pacbell.net said: > It sounds like a vaccum line leak, how did you cap the hose inlet, with a plastic/rubber cap? You might also screw down the distributor plate solid, so it won't rotate. This will prevent any bounce or such due to play in the plates pivot bushing.

I just used a little rubber vacuum cap on both the carb and the distributor vacuum capsule. I thought about making sure that the vacuum plate can't rotate relative to the base plate. I doesn't seem like anything would prevent that from happening. I will have to try that next.

gdrude@pacbell.net said: > PS. thank you for the update on the system. sounds like it wasn't too bad to install. Also, let us know of the tach solution. Mine has no visible loop to increase, must be inside the tach, but mine seems to work fine so yours will no doubt also.

Yes, the loop is inside the tach. There is a small donut with many turns of hair-thin wire around it. The pickup for the tach is a large wire which is threaded through (around?) this donut. Mine already had two turns when I took it apart, so I just added one more turn and put it back in the car. It seems to be much improved, but still a little jumpy at idle. Unfortunately, even to get three turns, I had to remove the little plastic retainer for the donut. The pickup wire is too short to do any more. Has anyone gone to more than three turns (I thought I saw someone had done 5 once) and if so, how? Did you splice a bit of wire into the existing pickup wire to make it longer. I don't really want to mess with this too much. I already broke on of the tiny wires and had to splice it.

Jerry Geil <jlgeil@qnet.com> Subject: Lotus Electronic Ignition Date: Fri, 02 Apr 1999 20:10:50 -0800
I have been reading with interest the letters about the Lumention ignition system and how listers have dealt with the installation. When I planned to install an electronic ignition in my Europa, I asked the List for advice. Another Lister recommended the Pertronix "Ignitor". I checked out their website and called Pertronix. It turns out that they supply the device to JAE and JAE retails it for $99. Many thanks to the Lister who recommended it. I put it in last Sunday. The car started quicker, idled smoother and accelerated quicker. Installation was a breeze once I got the distributor off. The could have been better, but JAE was very helpful. The "Ignitor" mounts right on the base for the points. Two leads come out and hook to the coil. No other module to mount. You have to look twice to determine it is not stock. Just start it and time it like usual.
If any other listers are thinking about an electronic ignition, you should check this one out.

"Michael Lye" <mlye@risd.edu> Subject: Re: Lotus Electronic Ignition Date: Sat, 03 Apr 1999 07:52:37 -0500
I have the Ignitor on my Europa too. I like it a lot but be aware that there have been problems with the ring (fits on the end of the distributor shaft) that holds the magnets that trigger it. This came apart while I was drivng leaving me stranded one of the few times ever! It wasn't actually very hard to fix but of course it happened late at night so it was hard to figure out what happened. The first two replacements I got had the magnets installed incorrectly, but once I figured that out I reglued them in correctly and have been fine ever since. This was a couple of years ago now and the problems may well have been solved by Pertronix. I still carry a spare with me, though, just in case my glue job fails.

ElanS4 <elans4@erols.com> Subject: Re: Lotus Electronic Ignition Date: Sat, 03 Apr 1999 09:46:59 –0500

Jay Mitchell <jemitchell@compuserve.com> Subject: Pertronix Ignitor "magnet tricks?" Date: Sun, 04 Apr 1999 11:02:00 –0700 Ken inquires: >I've bought the ignitor for my Europa S2 (Ducellier distributor). Presuming the same problem may appear in the magnet dohickey, what should I inspect for?

Here's my story: I bought mine in 96 and followed the instructions putting it in. It warned very specifically against removing the green tape around the periphery of the magnet ring, so I didn't. Car ran great the first event. Revved cleanly all the way to valve float, which it had never done before. However, at the second event, it quit in the middle of my first run. That was and is the only mechanical DNF the car has ever had. I pushed the car back to the pits and checked it out. As it turned out, the magnets had all come adrift. I collected the parts and reinstalled the points (yep, had the foresight to keep 'em in my toolbox) for the remainder of the event. Once back home, I figured out why they didn't want you to remove that tape: it was the only thing holding the magnets in. I reassembled the ring using tape as a temporary magnet retainer, reinstalled the system on the car, and cranked it. I thought I had gotten all the magnets the same, but one was out. I pulled plug wires one by one to determine which one was out. Then I took the magnet ring off, corrected the erroneous one, and firmly epoxied the whole mess back together. No problems since.

>What is the right way to glue them?
Just take 'em out one at a time and epoxy them back in, making sure to preserve their polarity.

"Mark MarKell" <Type46@micro-engineering.com> Subject: Luminition and Tachometers Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 12:08:32 –0700 For those of you who have been having Tachometer problems with an aftermarket ignition system, the following is text from Denaploy, the manufacturer of Luminition. I was directed there by a Luminition person after enquiring about a Tachometer problem observed in Jon Lexaus S2 Europa and observing the tach line with an oscilloscope. Further details and a drawing not include here are on their website under 'Faqs' at http://www.denaploy.co.uk/autocar
***************************************************************************************************
Smiths Tachometers and Lumenition

Most British vehicles that were fitted with a tachometer as standard were fitted with a Smiths Instruments device. These units come in three general types depending upon their triggering method. The first is mechanical and usually driven from the distributor shaft and has no electrical interface. Common in sports cars of the 50’s and 60’s.

Before 1974 (approx.) the electronic tachometer were current impulse triggered. This means that the tachometer sense wire is connected in series with the ignition coil, usually between the ignition switch and coil/ballast positive as in Fig 1. Sometimes the power for the tachometer was shared internally with the ignition switch end of the sense wire giving only three terminals. Smiths unit of this type can be identified by the letters RVI on the face of the tachometer. Designed in the days of contact breakers, they give inconsistent results when used with electronic ignitions. Many installations will work but some will produce erratic or no movement of the indicating needle. Some suggestions for rewiring the ignition circuit to eliminate the problem have been tried with limited success.

Later electronic tachometers are voltage pulse trigged and the single sense wire is connected directly to coil negative as in Fig 2. Smith unit have the designation RVC printed on the face. As far as we are aware there are no problems using this type of tachometer with our Optronic ignition.

It is important that owners can tell the difference between the two types of tachometer as incorrect wiring of the unit can cause damage to the electronic ignition module. If used the tachometer sensing wire(s) must be connected as appropriate for that particular design of tachometer.

As mentioned above some owners have tried alternative wiring for the sense wires with RVI tachometers with limited success. Out recommended solution if you wish to retain the benefits of electronic ignition is to: replace the RVI tachometer with a later RVC model if available or aftermarket equivalent or have the existing RVI tachometer converted to the later internal electronic. In both cases a minor wiring change must be made to the vehicles normal ignition circuit. The company in England that we usually recommend to carry out conversion is:

SPEEDY Cables, The Mews, St Paul Street
Islington, London, N1 7BU UNITED KINGDOM
Phone 0171 226 9228
Fax 0171 704 9542
NOTE: All of the above refers to negative earth vehicles.

Jon Lexau <Jon.Lexau@Eng.Sun.COM> Subject: Re: Ignitor? Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 10:46:58 -0700
ken.landaiche@dlcc.com said: Isn't the Ignitor the one with which several people have had tachometer problems? And has anyone definitively solved the twitchy tach problem? It's the last issue keeping me from getting one. Well, that and the time to install it!

Actually, I think that the Ignitor works OK with the tach (although I could be wrong). I know for sure that the Lumenition ignition does not work well with a current-sensing style tachometer. I am going to try replacing the sensing coil and front end of my tach with an LM2917 frequency to voltage converter and see if I can make that work.

ElanS4 <elans4@erols.com> Subject: Re: Ignitor? Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 18:20:52 –0400 I recently had a discussion with Jeff at JAE about tachs. I was actually calling him to find out if he had any spare tachs for sale so that I could send it out to be converted for electronic ignition. Jeff talked me out of it. It's been his experience that if you already have a bad or marginal tach, it will bounce around with the Ignitor. If you have a good or recently rebuilt tach, it should work just fine.

"Mark MarKell" <Type46@micro-engineering.com> Posting to the Europa list. Probably of general interest. If you have electronic ignition and a current operated tach you've got serious problems with accuracy. Jon Lexau and I are looking at that problem now and looking for a reasonable solution. There will not be any way to fix this with more or less loops, so don't go there yet. The best present solution as recommended by the makers of the Lumenition is to exchange the current operated tach for the later model voltage sensing style. That is also my recommendation for now. The distributors, both Bean and JAE seem to be glossing over this problem, but trust me, there isn't any other good solution presently that will work over anything but a short range. The problem stems from the fact that the current operated tach (standard Europa tach) was designed to operate on clean pulses with rapid rising and falling edges. The tach reading is basically an integral over time of the energy under this pulse and is relatively linear with respect to pulses per second as RPM rises. The electronic ignitions however do not generate a 'square' pulse, but rather a pulse with a rapid leading edge and a trailing edge that tapers off with a much longer slope. The area under the curve is no longer the same. To make matters worse, the trailing edge extends almost to the next pulse at idle, and at higher RPM is truncated by the following pulse in a non-linear relationship, so a simple change of the loop will not compensate over the entire operating range correctly. I'd recommend you spend your time elsewhere for awhile and see if we can come up with a reasonable cure. Presently you can either find and buy a later version $$$ or have it 'converted' which is even more $$$$$$. Putting some type of filter or wave-shaping circuit in the main line will adversely affect the ignition system and shouldn't be done.

>The tach will only get up to about 4k revs. Kind of floats around that number.

By 4k the pulses have run together so badly it doesn't ever see an off condition. It's what is called 'Saturated'.

> So you would think that a weak signal (have the electronic ignition as you saw at GGLC) would be the culprit.

This isn't a weak signal problem, despite what the parts vendors think, but a pulse distortion problem.

>The puzzling part is that at idle, about 1k rev, the tach will only get down to 1.5k,

zigglu@us.ibm.com Subject: Europa Plugwires Date: Sun, 4 Apr 1999 23:24:55 -0400
>Now for a question: are there any plug wires that are better than the >originals? I am thinking about silicone wires from Crane, but I don't know what wires are best.

Try MAGNECOR wires. They are one of the best, better than Crane and Jacobs. Check more details on:
http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/overview.htm and http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/frequent.htm

Mike Causer <mikec@dial.drakken.com> Subject: Re: Talking about speedos... Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 15:11:43 +0100
References: <199906231233.FAA09736@lists1.best.com> David Salvador Flores wrote: Anyone know how difficult it is to calibrate these things? Like many on this list my '86 Esprit's spedo. reads about 10mph faster than I'm really going at 60mph (says I'm doing 70).

If it's also ten mph fast at 70, and 80, and 90, then it's the needle position on the shaft that causes the error and you can take the speedo apart and re-set it. If it's 12mph faster at 70 and 14 mph faster at 80, etc, then it's a gearing problem and there's not a lot you can do without a suitable supplier of nylon gears or a machine shop with gear cutting equipment.

"Mark MarKell" <Type46@micro-engineering.com> Subject: Re: Talking about speedos... Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 09:12:38 –0700 Before you take the needle off the shaft be aware that there is usually an adjustment point available on the small helical spring to that returns the needle to zero. Removing the needle or faceplate is generally not required for service and can be difficult to get back where it's supposed to be later.

"Mark MarKell" <Type46@micro-engineering.com> What would cause the tach on my Seven to read 20 percent high (as compared to a dwell meter)? It is a Smith's tach of the current type and I do not have electronic ignition.

Have you added any electrical appliance such as an electric fuel pump, amplifier, stereo or other item to the Ignition wiring such that the appliance only comes on when the ignition is switched on? The tach is current-operated, so adding loads will increase the average current the tach sees if these loads are added 'downstream' of the tach which will make it read high. A previous lister had added a fuel pump and as engine revs went up and corresponding fuel demand went up the tach would get erratic. The solution is simply to change where the new appliance is hooked onto the same circuit.

Everett Stephens <everettstephens@pol.net> Subject: RE: wood glue Date: Sun, 14 Mar 1999 03:27:44 -0500

Mark Hollingsworth <markh@olympus.net> Subject: wood glue Someone was talking about a good waterproof glue they liked. I need to glue the veneer on my Euorpa dashboard (finally). New wood.

I tend toward Titebond II, a big competitor to Elmer's. Elmer's has recently introduced a glue called ProBond, which I have not used but have hard good things about. Everett S. 70 Elan S4 SE (as if an Elan wasn't enough to keep me busy, I play at cabinetbuilding also.)

"Briggs Pletcher" <Briggs1@ix.netcom.com> Subject: RE:Wood Glue Date: Sun, 14 Mar 1999 06:27:54 -0500
To do the job right I would suggest a two part epoxy. I used marine grade stuff. It was a two part with one part being a powder. When mixed it turned into a paste and was very easy to work with. Just make sure that you have more clamps than you need and press it against another flat board to spread the pressure and get a smooth finish. Mine turned out great. Will absolutely last a life time. Briggs, 72 Europa

Mike Carrick <mcarrick@ford.com> Subject: Wood Glue Date: 15 Mar 1999 06:23:20 –0500 A thought or two. Marine grade glue (resorcinol) such as Cascophen is excellent stuff; the major repair work I did on my boat over 20 yrs ago is still OK. However, it's expensive; for other than the most extreme marine use, it's overkill and fibreglass resin is quite adequate. Also, it's brown in colour and will spoil a decorative finish. Potentially it could soak far enough into a thin veneer to be noticed. If fitting a dash panel (eg veneered plywood) I'd suggest fibreglass resin; but whatever you use, ensure the wood is finished first ie varnished or polished or whatever. Any glue getting onto raw wood is going to ruin the appearance. If putting on a veneer, I'd suggest hot melt sheet glue. I've used it with great success on loudspeakers; I bought it from the veneer supplier, it just irons on. The point is, as mentioned above, you don't want a liquid glue getting on the face of the veneer or soaking through any porous bits, as it'll ruin the raw wood. Just my 2p's worth.

rodbean@ix.netcom.com Subject: Re: Elan S4 - Dash pad removal and replacement Thu, 18 Mar 1999 17:55:30 -0800
References: <004e01be719c$35467780$95140518@c58868-a.plano1.tx.home.com> Jeff Cocking wrote: From what I can tell the dash pad is glued down. Has anyone removed it? Any suggestions. Would like to keep it, as it is in great shape, and re-install later. Thanks in advance

The early Elans (S1 and S2) dash pads are definitely glued down. The foam is glued to the fiberglass (bodywork). I'd suspect this is also true of later Elans (S3 through Sprint).

Ken Landaiche <ken.landaiche@dlcc.com> Subject: RE: Window finishers (and other adhesive applications) Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 09:32:48 –0800 I considered this tape for the fiberglass door sill trim panels on my Europa Special. But those have to come off once in a while. What sort of two sided tape would be best for that application?

Tim Engel [mailto:tengel@isd.net] Transfer tape is all adhesive with no thin plastic film carrier. It comes with a peel strip on both sides. Pull off one peel strip and press the tape onto the part. Then peel off the second strip and press the part into position. VHB stands for Very High Bond and is a structural adhesive. After a 24 hour set-up, you will have to destroy the plastic strip to get it off again.

dan.morrison@autodesk.com The only "grease" fitting I am aware of is for the trunnions. It is located on the inside of the upright. And at the risk of starting a big debate, you should only use 90 wt gear oil for lubricating these. If the fitting is
missing look for a plug in its place. This needed to be removed and a suitable dispenser used to inject the oil. I used a plastic syringe and bent the tip under a little heat to make it easier to access.

"Phil Ethier" <pethier@isd.net> It's a heck of a lot easier to buy a cheap grease gun and fill it with oil.

"Phil Ethier" <pethier@isd.net> There should be a zerk in the lower trunion. You can use gear oil or high-quality modern grease. Any grease that may harden over time could be dangerous here. The upper ball joint is a permanently-sealed Spitfire unit. The inboard stuff is all rubber-and-steel bushings.

paul a zielinski <paulzielinski@juno.com> I've used nothing but grease in my trunions since I collected my Europa from US Customs......in Baltimore.........in 1971.

"Tim Engel" <tengel@isd.net> Subject: Re: Europa front suspension question Date:7 May 1999 22:26:00 –0500 You didn't miss anything. The only "grease" fittings in the front suspension are on the vertical axis of the trunions, and they are
plugged with little bolts. Replace the bolts with grease zerks and pump them full of EP 90-140 gear oil.

Subject: "mirror, mirror on the car..." (Vitalonis) Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 08:50:35 EST From: ClassMaker@aol.com
>> Yes. The North American distributor for Vitaloni is Torino Industries in Bedford Park, Illinois (I believe it's just outside of Chicago). Their phone number is 708-496-0805. Very friendly people. >> Brian Elkins >> '72 Europa S2

"Paul V. Gregory" wrote: > > Do you know of a vendor or catalogue featuring the Vitaloni line of door-mounted rearviews mirrors? One of my two on the Europa is unserviceable. Model type is called "California" I think.

...and Torino's fax is 708-496-0816.

Indeed, they have a "Californian" -- AND a "Sebring" style. FYI: Their "Sebring" is TM'd. No flames from Talbot folks.

"Sebring Mach/1" (matte black)
STYLE: Racing Mirror, Reversible, flush surface mount
Silver Plate Lens (4 1/2" x 3") -- not Vitaloni's blue filter
# 473 - Flat lens [$21.50 list/$16.25 dealer]
# 474* (* Wide Angle Lens) [$22.50/$17.00]

"Californian" (matte black)
STYLE: this has a hinged stem, leans out away from surface
"Visual Filter" [blue non-glare] Lense, 5x3" oval
# 5784 L side [$26.65/$20.12]
# 5789 R side (flat lens) [$26.65/$20.12]
# 5783* R side (* Wide Angle Lens) [$27.65/$20.87]

Suggested list and dealer prices subject to change. They also have a confidential Jobber price sheet, if you know some one who wants to stock hundreds.

FITMENT NOTES:
The "Sebring" mirrors would be the "correct" style. In fact, the S2's had them on the driver's side only. On my Europa S2, I have the "Talbot" style mirrors mounted over the wheel arches. Something I did in 1972, instinctively, not to be particularly "correct." ((Remember that I drive mine, it is not "concours.")) However, I was fascinated to discover old pictures of 47's in action, [Robinshaw & Francis' Europa book] with the very same mirror style and placement. Even more so, since I have taken a fancy to the 47 GT look.

Check out the competitive wear test charts, http://www.amsoil.com/products/tro.html. shorter scar length = better protection:

davea@quasar.engr.sgi.com (David B Anderson) Subject: Oil Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 09:35:10 -0700 (PDT) On oil, specific engine: I have heard from more than one source that synthetics are not so good for Early Esprit. (mine is 79 S2).
Rumors of oil leaking out(inadequate sealing)... Don't know if the rumors or the sources are correct. With 72 Europa TwinCam, on the other hand, RedLine synthetic leaked *less* (significantly less, leaks basically stopped) than Valvoline non-synthetic for me!

Warren Pearce pearceww@rmi.net Subject: Re: Oil Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 20:17:02 –0600 I've got over 130,000 miles on Castrol GTX with no real wear on the crank. I have replaced the bottom end bearings 2 or 3 times.

(carsecrets@igs.net).
OIL CHANGES FOR LONGER ENGINE LIFE and THE TRUTH ABOUT MIRACLE OIL ADDITIVES By: Corey Rudl

Beware of low-priced oil change bargains. You will notice that the price will drastically go up with the addition of useless additives and extra services not included in the package. Simple things like a $5.00 hidden oil disposal charge, or an extra $3.00 for the 23 point chassis lubrication, etc.

Also, most shops have a tendency to include the chassis lubrication that they advertised but forget to check all fluid levels. Make sure to remind the shop manager or mechanic.

As a few side notes on making your car last longer, most manufacturers recommend the engine oil be changed approximately every 5,000 - 7,000 miles (7,000 - 10,000 kilometres).

CHANGING THE OIL EVERY 3,000 MILES (5,000 KILOMETRES) OR EVERY THREE MONTHS HAS A DIRECT EFFECT ON YOUR ENGINE'S LIFE!

Even the AAA agrees with this. Also, ask any taxi cab driver; they put hundreds of thousands of miles on their cars and they swear by this.

It is now more important than ever. Today's engines are much smaller, work much harder, and have less oil capacity.

Synthetic oil is also a very good idea for engine longevity. It is much more expensive and harder to find but doesn't break down like regular mineral oils; therefore it offers much better protection and you don't have to change it as often (usually double the length of regular oil changes). Users have reported as much as 50,000 miles between oil changes (not recommended) and there was little evidence of wear on engines that have logged 250,000 miles.

Synthetic oil has been used in the aircraft industry for over 20 years -- they were the only oils that could take the heat and high rpm of the jet engines without breaking down. I have raced professionally for four years and have seen how synthetic oils have gotten me through a race where mineral-based oils have broken down under severe loads and caused engine or clutch failures. This is not to say that mineral oils are not good for everyday use; they are great. It is just that synthetic oils are so much better. Your engine will be better protected against wear, especially if you are hard on it (performance driving, towing a trailer, etc.) For example, any new Corvette or Porsche comes right from the factory with Mobil 1 synthetic oil.

People are becoming more aware and synthetic oils are becoming popular. Today, most places stock them. I personally use Mobil 1 or Castrol Syntec, but any fully synthetic oil is acceptable as long as it is the class and weight for your engine (stated in your owner's manual).

Whether you choose to use synthetic oil or not is your choice, but whatever you do...

DON'T USE LOW QUALITY OIL!

Your car is probably the second biggest purchase you will make in your life. Some of the cheap oils still state "meets or exceeds all new car standards." Sure it meets all new car standards when you pour it in, but for how long? These oils do not have the additives the higher quality brands do and break down very quickly. That is why your oil gets so black only a short while after your oil change. You have a lot of money tied up in your car, don't put this "crap" in it.

Also, as another pointer, only use pre-oiled air filters for your car. This reduces the dirt that gets into your engine which destroys cylinder walls (and eventually your engine).

Make sure you determine the brand, weight, and quality of oil you are using. Not all oils are alike. Some can increase fuel economy, some are of better quality, and some are designed for hotter or colder weather conditions.

Do not let anyone overfill your engine oil. It is common practice for mechanics wanting to sell you another quart. Extensive damage to your engine can result. The crankshaft can strike the oil and whip it into a foam (air bubbles) and that deprives parts of adequate lubrication.

As a side not, used oil from a single oil change dumped on the ground can ruin one million gallons of fresh water -- a years supply for 50 people. Americans that change their own oil throw away 180 million gallons of oil every year. This would provide 113 million gallons of renewable oil if it was recycled!

What about miracle oil additives advertised on T.V.?

Most of these product have solid lubricant called PTFE (short for polytetrafluoroethylene). Consumers know this better as Teflon, Dupont's brand name for it. PTFE particles evidently adhere to the metal inside the engine and provide a super-slippery coating to prevent wear. There is some controversy as to if the PTFE particles can adhere to metal with the extremely high temperatures most engines are running.

PTFE provides better "slipperiness"; but lower fiction and superior anti-wear properties of a motor oil can be different. Let me illustrate in an everyday sense. Just because one vitamin pill a day is good for you, it doesn't mean that five vitamin pills per day is five times better.

There are so many different engine and oil treatments advertised nowadays. Many of them do not live up to their claims. However, there are a couple of good ones out their like Slick 50 and Duralube. But most companies make their products look amazing through a bunch of circus tricks. Many do not even have evidence from an independent lab that proves their treatment makes the engine last longer (or whatever it is suppose to do). But the people that make and sell them sure do their best at implying that. (I might point out that Dupont does not endorse the use of Teflon in motor oils.)

Here are some of the tricks.

One of these company's implied proofs is that as a result these additives, your car produces better fuel mileage. That circus trick is as easy as changing your regular engine oil to a EC or EC II rating (EC stands for energy conserving) and you too will get up to 2.7% better fuel economy without any miracle additives.

Another implied proof is how the computer in the car has to adjust to the new "engine environment". This is absolutely true. But what they don't tell you is that adjustment may be due to the contamination of the car's oxygen sensor from the new additive. That's right, what was presented to your as a wonderful benefit actually may be doing harm to your emissions control system and...

MAY EVEN VOID YOUR EMISSIONS WARRANTY!

But you say, "Corey, what about those infomercials showing this miracle lubricant allowing an engine to run an amazing 30 minutes without any oil." It does not require a miracle to make an engine run 30 minutes without oil. Actually, if the engine is prepared properly before starting and is run in a `no-load' situation, it is easy. This is even easier if the engine has been fitted with oil-impregnated bearings. Again, no miracle here.

Just keep one thing in mind. Some of these treatments are $20-$40 and usually have to be added to every oil change. If you are changing your oil every three months, that is $100-$160 per year added to your car expense. Is this expense worth the benefits you are getting from the product?

There are so many products out there that it is difficult to class them all as ineffective without trying all of them. It is a jungle out there. There are so many gimmicks to make the test look misleading, it is very, very difficult to tell the good from the bad.

I recommend you stay with a proven product like Slick 50 or Duralube. Although they can make the product sound like an absolute miracle, it is not. However, they do live up to most of their claims and you will be very happy with the results if you use them. They have been tested and proven by independent labs and some of the big oil companies.

One question that probably comes to your mind is "If there is an oil additive that gives you longer engine life, better fuel economy, reduces emissions, and your car will run smoother; why wouldn't every major oil company start producing a similar product and sell it worldwide? Also, why wouldn't the car manufacturers start adding this additive to the oil in every new car to increase its engine life? They could offer a longer warranty at very little cost to them.

The scary answer is: If the oil companies introduced a product that would allow you to increase your intervals between oil changes and make your car last longer,...

OIL SALES WORLDWIDE WOULD PROBABLY DROP 15% -- A COMPLETE DEVASTATION TO THE INDUSTRY!

By introduction a better oil product, the oil companies would actually be cutting their own throats. As far as the car manufacturers, why would they want your car to last longer? They need your car to break down so they can supply parts and servicing... that's where they make their money!

OIL, Viscosity

"Paul Lushey" <plushey@worldnet.fr> Subject: Re: oily rags Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 00:16:52 +0200 Always go for the synthetic oils. Mobil 1, BP Visco 5000, Esso Ultron, Shell something?, Castrol something?, Duckhams something? As for the xWy factor, try to ensure x is <= 10 and y >= 40, these numbers indicate how the oil performs at low and high temperatures. A 15w50 oil is mainly intended for summer use but a 5w50 oil is for all year round use.

David.H.Putscher@USA.dupont.com

admin@davebean.com

http://www.davebean.com

http://www.wenet.net/~kampena

lotuspbc@pacbell.net

http://comm.gwp.com/lotus/

rdent@rdent.com

scw@centex.net

http://www.centex.net/~scwlotus/

tingletlc@aol.com

hharris07@aol.com

ClassMaker@aol.com I tend to use NGK BP6ES plugs. They have worked fine so far. Ken Landaiche NGK "bible" for Elan 72 - 65 (years) and Europa Twin Cam 74 – 67 lists BP7ES and a 0.025" gap. However, I've gone to Champion Gold instead... results even better! For the BP6ES, try the Champion Gold 2415 (or 2405, slightly warmer). There is another CG plug between the 2415 and 2405, and there is another one a half step warmer than 2405. The NGK catalog crosses the 2415 & 2405 both to a GR4. The point is that while the NGK may have a wider heat range than a "plain ol' Champion" (N9Y...) the Champion Gold has the NGK beat for anti fouling. Try them under $10 for a set of four Golds, even at NAPA.

I use NGK's with very good success. Also, if you have high comp pistons, try the non-extended reach BPxS series.. I've used BP6S to BP8S depending on conditions.....try http://www.ngksparkplugs.com

Fri, 26 Feb 1999 21:06:42 –0600. On a Europa TC, are the steering rack tie-rod ends the same as a Spitfire? Pretty much everything else on the front end is Spitfire, but my cross reference list doesn't have a listing for the tie rod ends. Yes, tie rod ends are Spitfire. Just about everything outboard of (and including) the ball joints is from the Spitfire, but take care with things like uprights (knuckle) and steering arms, as they did change over the years, with different generations of Spitfire.
Don't forget that there are extender pieces in the rod ends. The Europa has a wider track than the Spit. Spit rack and ends are used, so an extender piece is put between the tie rod and the tie rod end on each side. Also, there is a spacer block in the rack to prevent the wheels from turning as sharply. A Spit can nearly turn in its own length, but the bodywork on a Europa will not allow that. Phil Ethier Saint Paul Minnesota USA, Lotus Europa, pethier@isd.net http://www.visi.com/mac/

Jay Mitchell <jemitchell@compuserve.com> Stan wrote: Okay I have finished getting the Special hub carrier onto my S2 arm. I measured the Special bearing spacer tube and see that it came out to 2 inches. But this is visibly longer than the distance between the hub carrier bearing stops, perhaps a mm.. Could this be deliberate?

I believe it is. The hub carrier inner bearing's outer race (is that clear?) is intended to float. On the S2 carriers, the inner "shoulder" is just the point where they stopped machining the bearing bore and is interrupted by the opening that goes into the "foot" of the carrier. The dimensional matchup is exactly as you describe. The outer bearing is rigidly captured between the radius arm flange and the retaining shoulder in the carrier, whereas the inner bearing's inner race is located by the spacer. The outer race is constrained radially, but not laterally.

Randall Fehr <rsfehr@seanet.com> The spacer should be longer than the distance between the bearing bore bottoms in the carrier so that the bearing outer races are not held apart by the carrier when you tighten the stub axle nut and pull the inner races together against the spacer, which would preload the bearings and cause them to fail quickly. By design, the inner bearing 'floats' in the carrier to preclude this. Use green Loctite sleeve retainer on assembly, tighten the nut to spec (150 ft/lb ?) and let the Loctite cure with the bearing set just where it wants to be.

Robert "Fast Bob" Scheib <Robert.Scheib@gte.net> When rebuilding the rear hub brg. carriers for my '72 TC [updated to "Spl." carriers/brakes] I was unable to locate the #635 "green" stuff at my local suppliers, and used "red" #271[?] instead at their recommendation. Their comment was that the "red" had superior bearing race retaining qualities, and is more easily broken loose with heat for disassembly - I recieved the same comments from the bearing supplier. I was able to test this as I made a mistake during assembly and had to redo one bearing installation! I used acetone as a preliminary surface cleaner followed by Loctite cleaner/prep solution. You have to work fast as preheating the hub brg. carriers accelerates the cure time for the Loctite. I used the same #271 "red" on the stub axle / yoke splines - again at the recommendation of the Loctite dealer. I bought a set of the "centering washers" [?] but ended up not installing them, also had one last set of "tab-washers that I did use.

"John D. Abbott" <jdaarch@arn.net> I went a little different route on my rear hubs. I used Saf-T-Loc R01 on them. It maybe the same thing as Loctite packaged differently. It's green and expensive! I used new tabs because I didn't know any
different. I'm afraid to remove them now and use red Loctite, because it may disturb the Saf-T-Loc. I now have the car about 99% sorted, and I'm very pleased with the result. I redid B*W 2002's for years, saw a Europa at the SCCA nationals in Salina and fell in love. The 2002's are now just too blah for me. I really expected an extremely loud car full of vibration and rattles, but with great performance. Not true! The car rides great with no shake, is reasonably quiet ( a relative term ) and rattle free. The performance is more than adequate, with the illusion of speed being great. I went to my first autocross last Sunday and had a good time. The ashtray flew up and hit me in the face on my first run. I also turned the engine 6000
for the first time. An interesting point ... I put 20# of air in the fronts, 24# in the rears. Way too much, the tires didn't roll under at all even though I let out 1# after each run. I guess I'm not used to such a light car.

danmo@geocities.com I just looked in the Loctite catalog for their product descriptions. The 2xx series products are threadlockers. The 6xx series are for retaining and slip fit of bearings, etc.

270 – For fasteners up to ¾", intended for parts that do not require disassembly
271 – For fasteners up to 1"
272 – For fasteners up to 1 ½", for as received fasteners, heat and hand tools required for disassembly
277 – For fasteners up to 1 ½", Will not loosen due to heat shock or vibration, heat and hand tools required for disassembly

Loctite #635 is High strength for slip fits for gap fill (diametral) up to 0.010", shear strength of 4000 psi. I ended up buying #609 because that’s what they had; gaps to 0.005" and 3000 psi shear. #620 is for gaps to 0.015" and shear of 3800 psi. There is also a #603 for lightly contaminated parts, gaps to 0.005" and shear of 3770 psi. They also list other retaining compounds (638, 640, 641, 648, 660, 675, 680) in another chart that may well suffice. They vary from 0.005" – 0.020" gaps and shears varying from 1700 psi – 4500 psi (and not necessarily in order). They are probably fairly interchangeable and I think a lot depends on what the dealer may carry. Some viscosities were listed as "thixotropic". Any idea what that means? Really, really thick?

Randall Fehr <rsfehr@seanet.com> From memory, #635 sounds right. Green liquid, bearing and sleeve retainer

danmo@geocities.com I talked to the local Loctite rep this morning inquiring which product was the best to use. When I mentioned Loctite #35 he laughed.He said that was a very old number. He also said that the #635 is the equivalent and would work, but recommended #680 because it has a quicker setting time (about 20 minutes to aluminum vs. over an hour with the #635). Setting times can be shortened with the use of a primer, although it is not necessary. Both products fully cure in 24 hours. He definitely recommended using a cleaner though. The #680 also has a larger gap filling capability (0.015" vs. 0.015") for those worn hub bores.

Robert "Fast Bob" Scheib <Robert.Scheib@gte.net> The Loctite cleaner / prep is part # "765 - 1154" - "Klean 'N Prime". I bought it at NAPA auto parts ; the can has NAPA, Loctite, and Permatex emblems on the label. The product comes in a spray can and is evil smelling stuff that deep cleans the surfaces to be joined and acts as a "activator" for the Loctite.
I should amend my earlier statement to say that the hub bearing carriers I used were in excellent condition, and the bearing fit was very tight -I had to use heat on the carrier castings and press action to fit the bearings. For this reason the red #271 was deemed a better choice, had the fit been "loose" I would have had to use one of the "green" products - ditto for the stub shaft/hub splines. This advice / info was given to me by a Loctite customer info rep. that is a car racer too! [My son, who is an experienced Formula Atl. mechanic gave me the same recommendation - "red for tight, green for loose"]

dan.morrison@autodesk.com The wishbone bushings were not rusted to the pins, but I wanted to remove the pins from the chassis, and I think they were rusted to the chassis "bushing". On the front side of the pin, with the lower front wishbone removed, I used a series of spacers, washers, etc., to build out to the threaded portion of the pin, capping it off with a full size non-nylock nut. Then, I applied heat evenly to the length of the sleeve. After heating for a while, I started to tighten the nut and pulled the pin through to the front, adding washers and spacers as needed to take up the unthreaded part of the pin. It was a slow process, but it worked. This may be more difficult in your situation because you will not be able to apply heat to the bushed area, but maybe after soaking for a while in WD40 (etc.) it may break loose.

Scott Mitchell <scott@fortner.com>
>Can someone please explain what the different possible problems are and what parts need to be checked/replaced? Is this covered in the manual somewhere?

Been there done that. There are a series of shims that go between the yoke and the transmission. That way the forces are transmitted into the transmission by contact not through the spiral/roll pin(s). If memory serves you can get the shims in 5 & 15/1000s. Someone (tingle?, RD?, I can't remember) has 30/1000s too. You've got to shim that til it is tight. You should also check the pins, they may have cracked. Mine had.

ClassMaker@aol.com said: Check for wheel bearing failure/wear in the hub carrier. Jack to full droop. Grab the tire, up/down, side-to-side, etc. Kick it too. Then, only with a hydraulic floor jack "cup" under the cross member or tranny: push and pull the top of the tire. Yank it hard (not on jackstands, please!). Shove it harder. A good push inward at the top will usually show u-joint slop or a spun/loose wheel bearing.

From: "H. Schrader" <geo@olg.com> Subject: To all YAWROPAS Date: Tue, 29 Jun 1999 09:04:01 –0400 I would like to
thank the guys that sent me suggestions on how to correct the twitchiness on my Europa. The problem was the transmission mounts. I had not noticed before but, the PO had generously covered the entire mount with undercoat. As I took the old mounts off, they fell apart in my hands! With new mounts the sensitivity in the "yaw axis" is all gone; as an additional bonus, the transmission shifts perfectly!

SJMARCY@aol.com Does anyone know the thickness of the under hub spacer rings on an S2 AND a Special Europa? I have the "special" hub carriers mounted onto the S2 boxed arms. I've modified the special stub axles by cutting off the integral studs, replacing them wih aircraft hardware threaded into a drilled and tapped axial hole. I will be using double row angular contact inner bearings (30 mm x 62 mm x 15/16 inch ) and thinner seals along with the stock 30 x 62 x 16 mm outer
bearings. My selected inner bearings are the style of bearing used on modern FWD cars (just one per axle!) and they have high radial and axial capacity. The next size up is used (solo) on modern small formula cars so with the stock outer I should be in very good shape. So I should wind up with a cheap totally bulletproof rig. The double row innners ran 30 something
apiece from a local bearing supplier. The hub carrier has enough space for a larger inner, but the stub axle needs to be turned or ground down a bit.towards the u-joint in order to gain some offset. I may be able to lay it out such that the underhub spacer is unused. Or perhaps I'll set it up such that the stock hub position is retained. Which is why I need the spacer thicknesses. I'd like to wind up with as few parts as possible, only hard, strong stuff so that compresssive yield is avoided. So I may be able to leave off the under-nut bend-the-flange washer and the underhub spacer. I have a bit of extra freedom here since I don't have to worry about the rear drums as discs will be used. BTW the Special parts seem to have more generous radii here and there (compared to the S2) which is good practice for strength and fatigue resistance. BTW2, it is easy to drill out the stock
stub axles (to accept a stud or bolt) using a drill press by using the hub with reversed studs as a drill fixture. It took me about 45-60 minutes (each) with a 1/3 hp drill press.

ClassMaker@aol.com SJMARCY@AOL.com writes: Does anyone know the thickness of the under hub spacer rings on an S2 AND a Special Europa? About 0.385" according to the S2 spacers I got from Banks (Europa Engineering) recently. Hadn't installed them yet, so I checked them with my el-cheapo plastic dial calipers. I also bought the conical hub-centering washers ...in case.

"Jay Mitchell" <jemitchell@compuserve.com> According to Scott's suspension program, my car's front roll center is almost exactly 3" off the ground, and the rear is around 4 3/16". My suspension is a little bit lower than stock, and the low profile tires drop everything even more, so a stock car's roll centers will be maybe 3/4 - 1" higher. I took pains to get information into the program that is as accurate as possible, so I'm reasonably confident of the above.

JerTigger@aol.com The Golden Gate Club lists two makes of shocks Spax 195 620 AM and Koni 80-2273. DBE also references Armstrong in their parts book.

ClassMaker@aol.com Carrera shocks -- here in Atlanta! http://www.carrerashocks.com/ order line: 1-800-RACE-4-IT tech line: 1-770-451-8811 fax line: 1-770-451-8086

Randall Fehr <rsfehr@seanet.com> I believe one has to unscrew the top eye from the rod and remove the rubber
bump stop in order for the rod to be descended far enough the engage the adjustment slot.

Jay Mitchell <jemitchell@compuserve.com> Ken wrote: curious -- the damping rates are...?
Front - 175 lb-sec/in (wheel damping rate of 65 lb-sec/in). Rear - 135 lb-sec/in (wheel damping rate of 132 lb-sec/in). If I use the rear as a reference (i.e., assume it is a good match of damping rate to ride frequency), then I come up with a required front damping rate of 278 lb-sec/in to match it. This results in a wheel damping rate of 103 lb-sec/in.

> Carrera shock models?
Front – 6243. Rear – 6362.
>
> IIRC, you went from 140/115# to something like 175/140 ???
That's it exactly.

> also, would the damping rates be appropriate with Carrera's original spring rates (140/115)?
They'd be even more out of balance, as the front bar will contribute a larger percentage of the wheel rates with softer springs.
Front shocks that are softer than the rears help turn-in, but that's not really an area in which a Europa needs help.

"Jay Mitchell" <jemitchell@compuserve.com> Is there a formula or a rule of thumb for the relationship between the spring rates and shock rates?

Yes. I should have thought about this before I bought the shocks, although revalving isn't expensive compared to new shocks. Based on a second-order linear differential equation that is used to model all sorts of physical systems (spring/mass/damping in mechanics, RLC circuits in electrical engineering, etc., etc.), there are three regimes of damping: overdamping, underdamping, and critical damping. The relationship that determines the damping regime is:

D ~ sqrt(M*K),

where D = damping rate, M = mass, and K = spring constant. The tilde denotes "goes as." Since we're only concerned with
proportionality here, there are constants we can leave out and simplify the arithmetic. Notice that increasing either mass OR
spring rate will call for increased damping. Also notice that the required damping is proportional to the square root of either
value, ergo noticeable changes in spring rates cause a much smaller proportional change in the required damping rates. Using known corner weights (and averaging L/R for each end of the car, since I wasn't interested in different rates left-right ;<), I generated a F/R ratio that would be required for the damping regimes to match exactly. This is the ratio of the WHEEL damping rates. Then, using a rate conversion that is the square of the motion ratio (I know you're listening, Stan ;<) and starting with the rear damping rate as a reference, I arrived at the "match" for that damping rate that should be required at the
front. The sequence:

1. Determine corner weights, take a L/R average.
2. Determine (or estimate) unsprung weights, subtract from respective corner weights.
3. Determine wheel rates by multiplying the actual spring rate by the square of the motion ratio. My numbers for MRs are: F - .609,
R - .988 (i.e., the spring's displacement is equal to the wheel displacement times the MR). Arguments in favor of different
numbers are welcome. DON'T FORGET to account for the effect of any swaybar(s). I arrived at a wheel rate contribution of 33 lb/in. for the OEM front bar.
4. Pick one end or the other as your reference. I started with the rear because a) my experience indicated the front was too
soft and b) I wanted any net change to stiffen, rather than soften, overall damping.
5. Multiply the sprung corner weight by the wheel rate, take the square root of the product. Do the same for the other end. Divide one by the other to get a ratio. The end you chose as your reference should be the divisor. Or is it the dividend? You know, the denom... the one on the bottom.
6. Multiply the WHEEL damping rate (remember, it's the actual rate times the square of the MR) at the reference end by the
ratio you got in 5. above. That's the WHEEL damping rate that will match the reference. Then, convert that to the actual shock rate by dividing by the square of the motion ratio for that end of the car.

JerTigger@aol.com In a message dated 5/26/99 3:34:35 PM Eastern Daylight Time, gdrude@pacbell.net writes:
> Have you found out which way to turn the Koni's? I have a couple that may need tightening up some. How do you coordinate the two?

Harald Freise <hfreise@fox.nstn.ca> I purchased my first set of adjustable AVO shocks, for my Europa S2, just after Mike Causer reported they existed by virtue of seeing their booth at the Birmingham Motor Show (1/7/95) I think. In his post he listed the extensive available part numbers that they had for just about every Lotus model from Sevens to Esprits. They had models for the Europa S2 in both adjustable and fixed spring perch variants. I sought their fully adjustable models for my car. I tried to contact their Canadian and American representatives and it was a waste of time. I did make a purchase of front shocks (AVO part#PG556) from AVO UK / Chassis Dynamics and received good service. I did not know that the stock Europa springs would not fit the new AVO shocks. JAE sent me some 2.5" x 10" 140# springs which some said would be too firm but was the recommended for fast street use. They have proven to be very compliant and just about right as far as I am concerned. The rear shocks (AVO part #PE554) came from JAE who said that delivery in the US was very spotty and they supplied me with 1.9" x 14" 115# springs for these shocks. Both my front and rear shocks have adjustable spring perches and I bought a shock spanner from RD Enterprises. It is the same spanner that fits the Spax brand shocks. I have both ends set on soft rebound settings and with minimal spring preloads. Works for me. If I had to do it again I wouldn't hesitate in doing the same thing. Pictures are available under Tech bulletins at: http://fox.nstn.ca/~hfreise/vehicles/TLA.htm

Scott Mitchell <scott@fortner.com> I did some digging and found the AVO webpage. It is at: http://www.avouk.com/. The list of Lotus shocks is at: http://www.avouk.com/avoadjustable3.htm. Standard disclaimers apply.... I don't even have AVOs on my Europa.

Mark Hollingsworth <markh@olympus.net> Subject: Re: Europa Spring Compression Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 09:28:31 –0800 I built a spring compressor, it was pretty cheap. I used 1/2" threaded stock (two pieces) and two pipe flanges. Turned one flange so the inner hole was just large enough to go over the top spring retainer- I also left a bit of a lip there, to help keep the spring centered. Put the lower flange over the bottom of the damper, run the two threaded rods up through, with nuts on the bottom. Next place the top flange onto the retainer, nuts on top. Crank down on the top nuts until you can pull the retainer out. I use a large hose clamp on the outside, to the spring can't go anywhere, but it really can't do much anyway. This setup cost me nothing, I had the stuff around, but it would only be about $10 for the stuff at a hardware store.

Scott Mitchell <smitch@erols.com> Subject: Europa Spring Compression (U) Date: Sat, 20 Mar 99 17:49:24 -0500
I'm in the midst of upgrading the springs on my S2 to the autocross spec. And I've run into a problem. I can't find a spring compressor that will fit inside the tight wind of the current (stock, I believe) springs. This is on the front. The rear I know is another problem, but I've got a hack similar to what's in the Lotus Ltd stuff. Unfortunately it doesn't help for my current problem with the front. I've tried. I've tried the local parts store, theirs is too bulky to fit between the coils. My local British car shop suggested a nearby bike shop. But they didn't think theirs would work - "Try back monday when the head mechanic is here". Any ideas? FWIW, the bushings all look great and the top pin came out beautifully. I feel no need to replace anything while I'm in there. Scott "The Internet is the worlds largest library, but the books are scattered all over the floor." - John Alan Paulos

Ross Sorci <rsorci@ix.netcom.com> Subject: Re: Europa Spring Compression (U) Sat, 20 Mar 1999 20:34:50 -0500
Try another bike shop. No sense risking potential mayhem by rigging something up. BTW, I also have the front suspension on my Europa apart right now. The bushings were all pretty well shot. While I'm at it I gonna put on new ball joints and tie rod ends, and rebuild the trunnions. Spent this afternoon painting the a-arms with POR-15 paint. Interesting stuff, looking at the ingredients its sort of like a combination of super glue and paint. They warn to get it off anything that you don't want it on immediately, or else its on there for good, including your skin... they're right!

And here I thought I had sent you the entire "Britcar's Progress" series! Here is a quote from 1993:
==================
The spring is held down at the top by an alloy collar built to fit inside the spring with an external shoulder and outside a disk on the top shock absorber fitting with an internal shoulder. This collar has a slot to allow the shock rod to pass through during (dis)assembly. The idea is to compress the spring past the collar, slip the collar out, decompress the spring past the top eye of the shock and lift the spring off the top of the shock. My regular spring compressors are useless on these tiny springs, as the clearance between the coils and the shock body are so close. I had heard that radiator hose clamps could be used to compress them. The rate is only about 100 pounds per inch. I used lots of the little beggars to share the load and had no trouble removing the springs. HUGE DISCLAIMER: DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK! I DIDN'T TELL YOU TO DO IT, AND I WILL NOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR INJURIES!
====================

Worked fine. The autocross springs are even easier than the stockers, as they are much shorter. Installing the rears required no tools at all: Compression by hand was enough to pop them in. One of the neat things about the autocross springs is that they are not floppy and do not rub on the shocks. Phil Ethier pethier@isd.net http://www.visi.com/mac/

JerTigger@aol.com Subject: One More question on shocks Date: Sun, 23 May 1999 16:02:34 EDT I got one of the old shocks off the car and removed the spring, found out it is a Koni. Reason it appeared to be stuck is it was set tight and loaded up with rubber snubbers on the the shaft. If it did want to move it couldn't very much. What is the trick to setting for softer ride? I turned it opposite direction as the arrow on the side and no results.

BTW spring removal was a piece of cake, I had a steel plate 5" square cut a hole in center so shock would set in it, drilled two holes 180 degrees from each other. Cut two pieces of 3/8 threaded rod longer than spring. Heat bent small hooks on one end of each rod hooked the ends of rod onto coils of spring tightened nuts onto the threaded rod to compress spring.

ClassMaker@aol.com JerTigger@AOL.com writes: (about Koni D-types) What is the trick to setting for softer ride? I turned it opposite direction as the arrow on the side and no results.

Take the spring off, push the shock rod all the way into the tube until the inside end of the rod engages the "foot valve" at the bottom of the shock. Then twist the rod either way. Just like setting a screwdriver into the slot on a screw, about 80% of the time you'll have to twist the rod a bit before the foot valve gets engaged.

Mark Hollingsworth <markh@olympus.net> Date: Monday, May 24, 1999 1:08 AM Subject: Re: [lotuseuropa] Europa 1970 S2 UK model . Front spring for new AVOshocks The original Girlings for 2.inch springs are: Fully depressed 7 inches; Fully extended 9.5 inches, i.e. 2.5 inches travel. The new AVO for inch springs are: Fully depressed 6 Inches; Fully extended 8 Inches, i.e. only 2 inches travel.

g ford <gmfmo@mweb.co.za> >From: dan.morrison@autodesk.com The AVO shocks are for 1.875 ID springs. One of the problems is that wire is only available in 8, 8.5, 9mm sizes. The AVO fully depressed length is 6inches. If I go for the original spec free length of 12.75 inches and rate of 100lb / inches and using 9mm wire then the required number of coils is 17.3 and it will be coil bound at 6.12 inches. ie before the bump stop at 6 inches. Using 8.5 mm wire sorts out the coil bound length which is 4.75, gives 100 lb/inch but at 14.2 turns over stresses the wire. To maintain the spec free length using 9 mm wire I have to go up to 126 lb/inch and 15 coils which is mildly overstressed but could be used.

ClassMaker@aol.com Factory S1 and early S2 (1.9" ID) rates were 100# front, 72# rear (per inch). A better balance with F:R at 100:80, such as 140#F, 115#R (available). This is where Carrera has set them. Jay Mitchell has confirmed handling, although he has now upped the rates strictly for auto-x, not for the street.

Lawrence King <lawrence@promobility.net> Subject: Re:Front spring for new AVO Shocks Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 21:52:26 –0400 I haven't had experience with the AVO shocks or Europa springs, but I rave used the following the general procedure for ordering springs. Specify the following:

"Phil Ethier" <pethier@isd.net> I run mine with Eibach springs at 150 pounds/inch on the front and 120 pounds-inch in the rear. Stock front sway bar, no rear sway bar, Koni shocks set full soft. Ride height set so the drive shafts run horizontal.
Ride and handling were fine with Yokohama A008RS tires. I could not find the Yokohama A008RS2 tires I wanted, so I had to buy BFG R1 tires. They are too darn stiff.

Mike Causer mikec@dial.drakken.com Subject: Re: Spring rates (long, but non-technical) Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 10:31:13 +0100 Andrew Denton wrote:

> I went to a spring maker a couple of weeks ago to get him to check the spring rate of a couple of coil springs I had been given. I expected him to put them in a machine, load them up and take a reading on a gauge. No he never left the office. He measured the diameter. the number of coils and the diameter of the wire and used a basic calculator. Does anyone know the calculation and the spring rate for wire diameter please/

p = ( G * d**4 ) / ( 8 * N * D**3 )
p = lbs per inch of deflection
G = Modulus of Elasticity = 11,200,000 for spring steel
d = diameter of wire in inches
N = number of active coils [1]
D = mean diameter = outside diameter minus wire diameter
* = multiplied by
** = raised to the power
/ = divided by

Most calculators and programming languages should get this right without the parentheses, but why take risks?

[1] counting the "active" coils is that hardest part, they are the coils that are free to move and do not touch either the spring platforms or other coils. There are several different ways to finish the ends of the spring, so you have to look carefully. You can easily get 10% variation in two measured identical springs, there are an awful lot of things that make a big difference to the actual rate of spring. That's why the catalogues of stuff for racers all have a spring testing machine on offer, Demon Tweaks has two models for valve springs and two models for suspension springs. At 6-700 Pounds Stg each.

g ford <gmfmo@mweb.co.za>

"SMITH, THOMAS B. (JSC-DX)" <thomas.b.smith1@jsc.nasa.gov> Here is the info on shortening springs. This is for stock Federal S2 front springs (13.1/2" free length)...differences in wire thickness will likely require adjusting the time/temperatures. Also, I used a homemade spring compressor which compresses the entire spring (two plates with 4 threaded rods); I wouldn't try this with the grabber models, which don't compress all the coils. Also, you are dealing with a lot of potential energy, so the adequate precautions are left to the reader. Not the least of which is to send the wife out and open some windows, as you will get a fair amount of smoke! My first try was to compress the spring 2" and put it in a 450 degree oven for 15 minutes. There was NO noticeable change in free length. Then I compressed the spring to 7" (coils almost binding) and baked at 550 deg for 20 minutes. This resulted in a net reduction of 1.1/4" to 12.1/4" FL. I don't recall the original height of the car, but because of the front suspension design, you will end up lowering the car greater than the amount the spring is shortened. The 1.1/4" worked great for me, as the car is now visually level. This not exact science and there was a slight variation (about 3/16" if memory serves) in the second spring, so I put the longer one on the drivers
side. And as I said before, for better or worse, the camber will change to a certain degree.

"Phil Ethier" <pethier@isd.net> Remember that you need to have the car sitting on its front wheels to take off the sway bar. Either that, or put a couple of vise-grips on the ends of the bar so you can take a come-along and string it like an archery bow.

"Briggs Pletcher" <Briggs1@ix.netcom.com> I'd take it all off and push like hell. Been there done that. Any dissenting opinions out there? They are tough to get in. Briggs Pletcher 72 S2

dan.morrison@autodesk.com I guess this would make sense, since the trailing arms are different for the Special. I think it means changing trailing arms as well as a few other bits. I don't think I need any measurements, I was just thinking out loud.

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> dan.morrison@autodesk.com wrote: Does anyone know if the Europa rear hubs from the Twin Cam and the Special differ by more than the bearing sizes? Any other changes that might not make them interchangeable with the Twin Cam ones?

"Mark MarKell" <Type46@micro-engineering.com> Subject: Trammel pins and lower links Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 09:34:19 -0700 Found a nice substitute for trammel pins. Trammel pins are pins or bolts with a point on the threaded end and are used to accurately measure the adjusted distance of such things as control rods, carburetor linkages or Europa lower links. Carpenters use 'dowel centers' to locate the starting position of dowel holes in joinery operations. Dowel centers are available as 'General' Part number 888 in the hardware store as a package of 4 sets of varying diameters.

You da man. Its out there. First topical FAQ type info. (I converted it to html --- send me a refresh anytime). www.gglotus.org===>tech sect. ===>Europa===>ALPHABETICAL EUROPA INFORMATION from "mailing list"- compiled by Warren Hartenstine.

"Mark MarKell" <Type46@micro-engineering.com> The complete address for Warrens compilation of Europa based list info is http://www.gglotus.org/ggtech/index.htm#EUROPA

Jon Lexau <Jon.Lexau@Eng.Sun.COM> jrowan@ix.netcom.com said: > So can someone please give some instructions on doing this for someone who's never replaced a U-joint in any type of car before?

Until about a week ago, I was in the same situation as you. I have now removed all of mine and started putting in the new ones. Unfortunately, it looks like I may need some new driveline components so I am a bit stalled. Anyway, here is how I did it (if you have a press, you may wish to substitute it for large vise below).

1. Remove all of the circlips holding the U-joint cups in place.

2. Pick a place to start and using a socket (or something similar) just smaller than the U-joint cup, use the vise to press the whole U-joint one way. You will need a larger socket on the other side of the assembly so that the opposite side cup can push outwards.

3. Now remove the cup that is protruding from the outside. I used either a pair of channel lock pliers or just held the cup in the vise and wiggled the rest of it to get it to come loose.

4. Now CAREFULLY push the U-joint the other way. You now have to push on the spider (I used a pretty small socket) so you want to be gentle here. You want to push until the remaining cup comes out the far side. At this point, the spider should come free. I removed the second cup by pushing it back into its holder until it fell out on the inside.

5. Now do the other pair of cups and you have one joint disassembled.

Assembly is the reverse of disassembly.

Well yes, but... My method was to insert the spider (without the cups) where it belongs, and then start both cups from the outside. I put this whole sandwich in the vise and pushed both cups towards the center together. It is important to be sure
that the spider stays centered as you do this, though. I managed to snap one of the needle bearings on my first try because I wasn't paying enough attention to what was happening. This should get both cups flush with the yoke or whatever. Now put your socket from step 2 on one side an push until you can reinstall that circlip. Then reverse the whole thing and do the second circlip. You may want to back up the other side with another socket so you are not pushing against just the
circlip.

"Phil Ethier" <pethier@isd.net> I have been told by folks who really abused their Europa drivelines that the strong setup is a Dana-Spicer brand U-joint with no grease fittings. The non-greasers are not drilled inside and are stronger.

Randall Fehr <rsfehr@seanet.com> Jason wrote: Any advice on good cheap replacement U-joints and where to get them would be useful too.

Good or cheap, which do you want? I use the UK-made Hardy Spicer joints sold by JAE, and prefer greaseable. Jeff at JAE did the research and found these were the best quality. Keep in mind that this is going to be a difficult job for you the first time - might as well use parts that will last. I use the hammer/intertia method Ken described, and have a copper-faced mallet that delivers a solid strike without marring or peening the yoke. Don't hammer too far so that the spider starts to nick the inside edge of the yoke bore. You should consider removing the rear suspension assemblies from the car for much greater access to the joints.

"Phil Ethier" <pethier@isd.net> Subject: Re: Europa Progress (U) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 1999 21:27:13 -0500
Have I sent you this one before?
===========
Here is a bunch of info on Europa gearshifts. The biggest problem, even on the five-speeds, is the meeting of the shift lever an the first tube. Wade through this stuff, and you will see the solution:
======
\\\\\\\\\\gearchange To K.C.Babb Jun 19 '92 at 1:01 pm cdt Subject: Help with Lotus gearchange

I made more progress on the Europa frame last night. Removed the entire gearchange, speedometer cable, swaybar and lower front closing plate.

I think I have figured out the main problem with the gearchange. I will be putting in a heim joint to fix the problems with the departed rubber bushing on the top of the gearbox, thanks to Steve Valin's fine advice. But that is not the real problem.

95% of the guess-a-gear characteristic of this system is at the junction of the bottom end of the gear lever and the first horizontal tube that goes back. Without going into the rest of the linkage (trust me, Rube Goldberg would be proud), here is what this part does. The bottom of the lever is a simple tang with a hole in it. The tube has a clevis on the end. The lever tang fits in the clevis and a bolt (horizontal and across the car) goes through them both. The tube moves back and forth (end movement) to move from neutral into the gears. This works just fine.

As the lever is moved side-to-side, the front of the tube moves side-to-side. This motion is (and is supposed to be) irrelevant to the gearbox. The relevant motion is the ROTATION of the tube, which is supposed to move the selector from one gate to another. This tang-and-clevis is not up to it.

The problem: The clevis is supposed to have some spacer washers in it. They are not there. The whole assembly is worn, and the tang is bent. The result is that considerable sideways motion of the lever results in no rotation at all. Since there is a good locating spring in the gearbox, you always wind up in 3rd or 4th instead of 1st or 2nd. The locating spring for the reverse gate (reverse is next to 4th) is even stronger, so if you want to back up you get out and push. This actually makes sense, as at least you can SEE that way.

I believe that this is weak design point. Even if it is bought up to as-new spec, it will be inadequate. The present design relies on the fit of the tang in the clevis, and the whole contact area is only about 3/4" high. I think that this allows too much leverage advantage. I believe what is needed is a wider base.

The proposed solution: The lever could have the tang removed. A wide clevis, maybe 2.5" on the inside, can be welded in. Check the clearance to the coolant tubes on the right of the tunnel. For ease of assembly, a 5/16" Nylock nut could be spot-welded to the right side. There is room to weld in triangle gussets. The tube gets a 2.5" long tube welded across the end, with a 5/16" ID. This is also gusseted. After the tube is wrestled into the tunnel, the lever with suitable mounting flange, is put in through the oval access hole and mounted. The tube is introduced to the clevis and a 5/16" bolt secures them. I have to be able to do this part with only my left hand. The 5/16" bolt should be a regular Grade 2, so it will be a wear part. I think that can be replaced from the passenger seat with the body on. Side-to-side play in the clevis should be irrelevant. Wear in the tube should not be a big factor. I would like to put a Zerk in it, but it is so hard to reach, I would find it hard to grease it anyway. OK, all you Britcar engineers, shoot holes in my theory for me. I really don't want to be taking this whole car apart again!

I put an aluminum block about 1.5" wide on the bottom of the shift lever. It has holes drilled and tapped for 1/4-20. I procured some ball bearing assemblies from the local surplus store.

The shift tube has the clevis. After carefully measuring the location of the holes, I trimmed off the clevis ears, exposing a rectangualr flat area on the end of the rod. I made up a U-shape of steel and drilled its ears to match the OD of the bearing assemblies. I pop-riveted the new clevis to the tube, then brought it and a 12-pack of pop to a professional welder. He welded it (which I may have been able to do) without wrecking it (which I am not so sure I could do) and welded on some reinforcement triangulation.

I placed my new clevis over my new aluminum tang and bolted in the bearings. Now I have a frictionless clevis with a MUCH wider base than the stock setup.

Tommy Schramm: Turns out Tommy actually did something I figured out independently. Toss out all the rubber mount stuff and the rubber ball on the shift stick. Just take a heim joint, cut off the threads and weld the ring to the bottom of the top shift-mount plate. Pass the stick through the heim joint.

Phil Ethier, THE RIGHT LINE, 672 Orleans Street, Saint Paul, MN 55107-2676 h (612) 224-3105 lotus@pnet51.orb.mn.org
w (612) 298-5324 phile@pwcs.stpaul.gov (list goes here) The workingman's GT-40 - Anthony Colin Bruce Chapman

davevh@microsoft.com Jun 25 '92 at 4:49 pm pdt | The problem: The clevis is supposed to have some spacer washers in it. They are not there.

They aren't supposed to be. It's not spacer washers that are missing, it's a pair of half bushings. They look like this (exploded view):

gear lever
vv
vv
||
||_ || _||
nut -> [] | _ || _ | =========] <- bolt
|| || ||
||
^ ^
half bushings

These half-bushings were originally rubber and over time they wear out, fall apart and disappear in the tunnel. The key to good shifting is to replace them. Unfortunately, they're NLA either from Lotus or from Ford (they were a Cortina part). However, I know someone who makes them up out of plastic (Nylon, I think; he tried Teflon but it was too soft). Replacing
them with washers doesn't work very well; if you have enough to get good rotation, you get binding fore-and-aft as well.

| The whole assembly is worn, and the tang is bent. The result is that considerable sideways motion of the lever results in no rotation at all. Since there is a good locating spring in the gearbox, you always wind up in 3rd or 4th instead of 1st or 2nd.

This locating spring came in various strengths from the factory, who-knows-why. It appears to be based on what they had in the parts bin that day. If the tang is bent it appears you got one of the stronger ones, which put considerable strain on the linkage, notably the spot you were discussing. Fortunately the spring is easy to get to (it's on the gearbox) so you might consider cutting a loop or two off, or replacing it with a weaker one.

I waved your solution by my favorite Europa mechanic. He's the guy who makes up the plastic bushings. I can't remember all he said without having it here in front of me, but I suggest you call him - (503) 625-5443, ask for Jim. He runs a shop called Europa West and he's spent a ton of time tinkering with that linkage.

Dave Van Horn davevh@microsoft.com I got the gearchange spherical bush for only a few dollars from Tri-State Bearing, 612-721-2463, 3418 E 25th Street, Minneapolis, MN 55406. Open Sat, 8-12

Subject: Europa gearchange To: JPENGEL@tiny.computing.csbsju.edu (My inner child is a sick little bastard) Date: Wed, 8 Feb 1995 13:48:53 -0600 (CST) Cc: Lotus-Cars@netcom.com

Tim Engel writes >>Rod Bean, "rebean@CCGATE.HAC.COM" writes > > > >I vintage race a S1 Europa... the car has had a shifting problem... I now suspect old, worn parts in the internal gear selector apparatus... Is there anyone in SoCal who knows these transmissions VERY WELL ..> .

>You have a rear shift trans (352?) in an S1 'ropa?

|||||| |||||||
|||||| |||||||
|||||| |||||||
||||||||||||||
||||||||||||||
|||||/ \||||||
||||| |||||| < top view of aluminum block
|||||\_/|||||| vertical through hole is tapped for 1/2-NC
|||||||||||||| New 1/2" shift lever is threaded to match.
||||||||||||||
|||||| |||||||
|||||| |||||||
|||||| |||||||

^ hole in each side tapped for 1/4-20-NC bolt

top view of the block and clevis as assembled

______|________
| \
|||||||||||||| |
|||||||||||||| |\
|||||||||||||| | \
|||||||||||||| | \
|||||||||||||| | \______________________
|||||/ \|||||| |---- / to rear of car ->
||||| |||||| | /
|||||\_/|||||| |----____________________\
|||||||||||||| | /
|||||||||||||| | /
|||||||||||||| | /
|||||||||||||| |/
|||||||||||||| |
______|________/
|
^ 1/4-20 bolt through bearing, see detail below

enlarged top view of bearing area:
[2 new messages! Most recent from Bob Stewart]

enlarged top view of bearing area:

||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
||||||||||||||||||||||||BBB|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
||||||||||||||||||||||||BBB|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
||||||||||||||||||||||||BBB|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||< aluminum block
||||||||||||||||||||||||BBB|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
||||||||||||||||||||||||BBB|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
__________________ XXXXXBBBXXXXX ______________________
__________________|XXXXXBBBXXXXX|______________________ < clevis
XXXXXBBBXXXXX < ball-bearing assembly
BBBBBBB
BBBBBBB < 1/4-20 bolt, unthreaded portion inside
bearing and tightened into tapped hole
aluminum block. Use LocTite.

The inside race of the bearing is longer than the outside race, so the bearing does not bind on the block or the bolt head. Don't space the bearing any further from the block, as you don't want the clevis to slip inside it. The clevis will not fall off the outside of the bearing because the clevis will hit the block on the other side first. Phil Ethier
==========

>Phil,>Thanks for your archive of shift linkage stuff. I've got a question, can you remove the front-most shift tube without
>removing the motor?

On an S2, sure. Could be a problem on a Twink.

Remove the grille from the mouth at the front of the car. Remove the paper-board at the back of the nose cavity. There is a big rubber plug on the front of the chassis frame. Yank it out.

Go under the car, in front of the engine, and disassemble the rear of the front-most shift tube. If the bellows still exists, shove it into the chassis frame "box".

Go inside the cockpit. Remove the armrest on the top of the chassis frame "box". Stick your arm in the oval hole and remove the bolt that connects the shift lever to the front-most shift tube. Now remove the shift lever from the car by taking apart the four bolts which sandwich the shift-lever ball joint into the frame.

Pick up the now-loose front-most shift tube and move it forward until it fits through the holes in the front of the frame. Be careful not to catch the tee on the hole at the back of the frame. Get out of the car go to the nose cavity. grab the front-most shift tube and guide it out of the chassis frame and on forward through the mouth. Phil pethier@isd.net http://www.visi.com/mac/

Kiyoshi Hamai <khamai@tsoft.com> Subject: Re: Europa Progress (U) Date: Sun, 04 Apr 1999 22:25:44 -0700
Phil Either gear shift article also appears on the GGLC web site under Tech>Europa with redrawn illustrations. Warning, it was just posted and we still seem to be having a couple of bugs in getting the drawings to download (should have it fixed shortly). http://www.gglotus.org

sometimes a thin kitchen knife thru the timing mark opening (have someone depress the clutch while you try to get the
knive between flywheel and clutch disk) works. If you get the clutch moved to where you can get thru. davea@sgi.com

JerTigger@aol.com Subject: Re: It runs, It moves, It shifts Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 15:57:14 EDT The shift linkage feels good. At the front I drilled out the lever and fork to 1/2 inch and installed a 3/8 by 1/2 bronze bushing in place of the plastic ones, use a 3/8 bolt with lock nut to snug it down and eliminate any side play. Mid point the balljoint was sliding on the shaft next to the universal joint, punch the shaft and set the balljoint with lock tight, where it attaches to side of gear box in put in new sleve and bushings. At rear removed the roll pin, drilled shifter shaft and universal joint holes
out to 5/16 made a saw cut to split the universal joint where it slides onto shifter shaft grade 8 bolt and lock nut through hole. ground off two turns off the reverse indent spring,

"Mark MarKell" <Type46@micro-engineering.com> Subject: Used spellchequer for sale(Europa) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 1999 09:40:18 –0700 The gearbox cannot come off the clutch housing without removing the whole works from the engine. The bolts that hold the bell housing onto the gearbox cannot all be seen from the outside, there being at least six that can only be reached from the inside of the bell housing. Please take a look at http://www.micro-engineering.com/clutch2.jpg
for a photo of the inside. (This photo also shows the sequence for removing/replacing the throwout bearing. Some have tried to remove the operating fork for this operation which is not to be done!) The other items I can't comment on as I'm not that familiar with the TC linkages.

jon rosner <jon@lotustrek.com> Subject: 3M trim adhesives Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 11:41:52 –0700 Someone posted a notice a while back asking about adhesives used by manufacturers to adhere trim pieces to the exterior and interior of new cars. Since my brother runs a polymer research lab for 3M in Austin I was able to ask him for the information.

3M Molding Tape
roll 7/8in by 5 ft
For: int trim panels, bdy side moldings, rockr panels, emblem cladding
part # 03615

3M Automotive Attachment Tape
roll 1/2in by 60 in
For: veh body side moldings, trim and emblems
part # 03609NA

3M Plastic Emblem and Trim Adhesive
tube 1 fl oz
For: bonding mirror, repair vinyl molding, int trim, plastic and metal
ornaments
part # 03601

"Rude, Gerald" <GDR1@pge.com> Subject: Re: (U) Burned Trim? Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 17:06:16 –0700 The cover apparently trapped moisture under it, and the trim soaked it up. The change in color is the trim rusting!! Options: 1) put in new trim... get a glass man to do it, trim is expensive. I just had mine done, Bean has the trim, and probably R&D. The window has to come out as the window locks into the trim. Be careful removing the corner pieces they are really thin aluminum. 2) Paint the darn stuff. I haven't tried that, but perhaps scuffing it up and painting with a silver paint and then with a clear would work?? Or paint it a semi flat black would be better, make it look like rubber?

> Anyone have an easy replacement solution for the ventilation fan motor on a 1970 Europa S2 (with the squirrel cage)?
You can buy replacements fans from Aardvark. They're not exact, but they're close, and are probably better quality than original. Go to http://www.talbotco.com/cat.htm, click on the 'Body' link, and look for "Fresh air fan". Good luck, Mark

"Mark MarKell" <Type46@micro-engineering.com> There's nothing THAT unusual about that motor to account for that price. Sounds like they just don't want to deal with it. Barring that, there are a number of similar squirrel-cage alternatives from VW's etc. I can probably help you with. I don't think the original Smith's is that hard to purchase used, but
I'm not sure on that one. Let me know.

3642R Warren R. Hartenstine whartenstine@earthlink.net

6/17/99 4045R Al Hostetter honor@erinet.com

"Richard Clifton" <Richard.Clifton@fel0152.x400.icl.co.uk> Subject: Useful Web Site Date: Tue, 20 Apr 99 16:20:00 +0100 I have stumbled upon what appears to be quite a useful web site. It has a list of the majority of the British Lotus specialists (not dealers) along with entries from Belgium and USA plus quite a lot of other interesting Classic Car stuff:
http://www.ccdata.com/TKRZ-3WKLCL.htm

http://www.banks-europa.co.uk/

xtec@primenet.com> MAILING LIST ARCHIVES -- Now on the web Thu, 18 Mar 1999 16:18:51 -0700 (MST)
I've started a simple Mailing List Archive on the web. First and foremost, I am missing a lot of the digests. The ones that I am missing are as follows:

volume 1 - all
volume 2 - 001-322, 417
volume 3 - 371, 650-714

If you have any of these digests, please email them to lance.johnson@asu.edu. All the files, except for the list of missing digests, are ZIP files. You will need PKZIP or WinZIP to decompress them. The URL: www.public.asu.edu/~lancej/lotus/archive. If you have any comments or suggestions, please email me at lance.johnson@asu.edu. Let me know if there is any problems!

While doing a search on automotive art, I uncovered a print of a JPS Europa Print. It can be found at the bottom of the webpage at http://justbmws.com/bmw_art/. I do not know this person, company, yada, yada, yada... jeff

*****Lotus Classified Ads***** http://idt.net/~lotusf1/classified.htm

"Phil Ethier" <pethier@isd.net> Subject: Europa mailing list Date: Wed, 7 Apr 1999 19:40:58 –0500 To subscribe to the Lotus Europa list, go to the ONElist web site, at http://www.onelist.com/subscribe/lotuseuropa

http://www.gglotus.org/ggpart/europacr.html

http://www.fastcorner.com/lotus/

Bill Bird <BirdB@war.wyeth.com> Subject: Screensaver ready for download Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 04:48:24 -0400
The screensaver is 3MB in size which considering the number of images I was sent that were over 1MB in size for each image is a miracle of compression technology. It can be downloaded as an executable file. It has been virus checked before loading onto the web so is safe for you to download from http://www.photoalbum.co.uk/ssaver.htm. As this is a friends commercial site (who let me use the software) can I ask you not to put the screen saver onto the web on other web sites, but please feel free to provide a link to this site if you wish.

Mike Causer <mikec@dial.drakken.com> Subject: Lotus bibliography updated Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 14:54:50 +0100 My bibliography of Lotus cars has just been updated. It now lists 261 books about the history of the company, the personalities involved, and technical details, including workshop manuals; plus 86 official workshop manuals, parts books and handbooks from Lotus and 22 videos. http://www.clients.drakken.com/mcauser/lotus_biblio/index.html

http://www.angelfire.com/al/europa

Mike Causer <mikec@dial.drakken.com> Subject: Web site with part cross reference databse (maybe) Date: Tue, 08 Jun 1999 17:20:35 +0100 It is quite possible that this web site has a parts cross reference for Elan and Europa. All I've managed to get out of it is a lot of OTT graphics, but it may be worth a try.....http://www.weservedata.ch/lotuseuropa/

McMaster-Carr is worth a look. You can order single quantity bolts from their website http://www.mcmaster.com

"Mark MarKell" <Type46@micro-engineering.com> We've just re-furbished the Club Lotus Northwest website and changed it's location to http://www.micro-engineering.com/CLNW . There are some recent photos from the WCLM at Thunderhill. I'd like some folks with browsers other than Microsoft or Netscape to check it out and let me know if there
are problems with it.

dan.morrison@autodesk.com Here is a link that has hub-centric rings for sale. It may be helpful if you can find the correct sizes listed in their chart. Let us know if anything looks like it will work. http://www.mackinindustries.com/WheelMate/hub_centric/

You da man. Its out there. First topical FAQ type info. (I converted it to html --- send me a refresh anytime). www.gglotus.org===>tech sect. ===>Europa===>ALPHABETICAL EUROPA INFORMATION from "mailing list"- compiled by Warren Hartenstine.

Karl-Franz Marquez <karlfranz@bol.net> Subject: Official Lotus Web Site has been updated. Date: Sun, 13 Jun 1999 08:02:54 –0400 Check it out at: http://www.lotuscars.co.uk/

"Ron Arnold" <arnoldr@magicnet.net> Subject: My Europa & Elan M100 site Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 18:38:21 -0400
Please take a quick look at my modest web site. I have a few small pictures of both of my Lotuses, along with some quick text. I did the text in between meetings, so please be kind. I'll get it right someday. Especially the Europa text - it needs work.
It's at: http://www.magicnet.net/~arnoldr. Don't expect much, as this is the first attempt. At least no external plug-ins are required, and there are absolutely none of the fine gif animations that are so very popular ;-)

"Mark MarKell" <Type46@micro-engineering.com> Subject: Some new websites Date: Tue, 29 Jun 1999 13:42:39 -0700 I've just finished modifying the Club Lotus North West website and adding one of my own (only partially complete). Tried to eliminate the slow download stuff as much as practical per previous comments from the list. Please send comments off-list to
mailto:Mark@micro-engineering.com. CLNW is at http://www.micro-engineering.com/CLNW. Mine is at http://www.micro-engineering.com/Type46.

farberjf@us.ibm.com OK --- I run these option factory alloy wheels also. This is a test. Here is where you find out
if you are mentally well balanced or will go this distance to make a Europa right. There is a fair ammount of effort involved so I hope these are new tires and wheel bearings..............

1) The center wheel hole is not true and is useless in balacing on modern machies. To balance accurately you need to use a jig with fingers that hold the wheel via the lug holes. Unless damaged the lug nuts themselves are not ususally the problem.
(as a complete topical digression wheel studs for some Fords - scorpios......etc will press in and give you twice the meat as those woosy stock 3/8" studs....wont strip.........)

dan.morrison@autodesk.com Here is a link that has hub-centric rings for sale. It may be helpful if you can find the correct sizes listed in their chart. Let us know if anything looks like it will work.
http://www.mackinindustries.com/WheelMate/hub_centric/

WHEELS, Centering

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> The wheels you describe, the 5.5 inch wide Lotus "Mags" (I couldn't
access the web page you noted) are "stud centric" that is they centerh on the studs. If there is too much play in the stud fit, they will be off center. The way to fix this is to make the wheels/hubs "hubcentric" which involves having a ring made for each wheel which will fit over the hub centering surface and fit inside the wheel tapered surface. I think
Ken Landaiche had some made (If my memory serves me right --- but its a 50-50 gamble any more). I made some for the rear of my special, but haven't yet for the front (which vibrate somewhat).

"Phil Ethier" <pethier@isd.net> The problem is the nuts themselves. I have a full set of them. (In a box, not on my car, as I use 1/2" studs and tapered nuts on BWA Sportstar wheels.) They are unbelievably eccentric. Try turning one onto a stud sans wheel. You can SEE the runout.

dan.morrison@autodesk.com I wonder if it would be possible to press in a tapered sleeve where the shouldered lug nut fits and use tapered lugnuts. You might be able to purchase them from one of the smaller wheel manufacturers such as Keizer or Monocoque. I suppose you could have some made, but it might be costly. This way the wheels could be made stud-centric. Of course this assumes that the wheels are true in relation to the lugnut holes!

whs018@conrad.appstate.edu Subject: Re: OOOOPS Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 17:46:58 -0500 (EST) Paint? I would think that you scraped the clear coat or an anodized finish off. If it is the clear coat, there are many wheel shops that will re-coat the wheel. If it is anodizing that scraped off, there are also companies around that will acid-etch the old anodizing and redo the entire wheel. If your wheels are painted (maybe powder coated?) then the paint would all have to come off and be re-applied to get a nice finish. If you don't want to redo the entire wheel, buy a bottle of model car enamel that matches the color the closest and do a touch up.

"David H Putscher" <David.H.Putscher@USA.dupont.com> Been following the hub centric wheels thread. Before anyone goes too far the Lotus wheels are not a machined taper in the back of the wheel. For the centering rings to work, you would have to machine a stepped ring in the back of the wheel to mate with the centering rin. This would still not relieve you from the problem of balancing the wheel in the first place. Basically, you need to find someone equipped to balance either on the car or using fingers in the lug holes, using the Lotus style sleeve nuts. To problem comes back every time you take the wheel off. Without a machined taper in the wheel the alignment of the wheel on the cone of the spin balancer changes every time you put it on the machine. I'm trying to evaluate if machining a taper and then the stepped centering ring will solve the problem. Problem is finding a lathe big enough to chuck up a wheel by its outer rim. Anyone know a good!!! cheap !!!!!! machinist with big tools?

From: "Mark MarKell" <Type46@micro-engineering.com> With respect to balancing, why not take an old Europa hub (there are a few that have worn out!) and have the center cut out concentric to the bolts for a centering adaptor? Then the remaining problem of centering the wheel on the car should be solved by chucking up a set of lug nuts and truing up the conical sections? Not as nice as true hub centering, but practical.

From: farberjf@us.ibm.com I have considered taking old hubs and doing this but to fit the balancing machines you need
"the stub axle" part which mounts in the hub bearings and you really need to be sure that they are near zero runnout. I have considered fabricating a circle from aluminum -- welded to a pipe as an alternative.....drill and insert studs......again needs to be accurate. SO far only thinking........somebody wants to set up a batch order count me in.

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: Europa Wheelwell Query Date: Mon, 07 Jun 1999 21:22:58 -0700
Paul Gregory wrote: On my Federal TC (lhd) I just noticed the absence of a protective guard inside the passenger-side wheel well. There's one on the driver's side, but nada on the passenger side. It mounts inside the well (opposite the radiator) where four empty bolt/rivet holes now do nothing but permit water and road schmutz shed directly from the tyre to enter into the passenger footwell/doghouse. Does such a part exist, or shall I 1) fabricate one or 2) cease being fussy? If it does exist, what is it called?

Paul, are you referring to the "cardboard" pieces just aft of the wheels in the front, and in front of the rear wheels? Its a
"waterproof" cardboard material which is available at upholstery shops, used for door panels. It is simply cut out to the pattern of the "hole" and pop riveted to the fiberglass then coated with undercoating. No big deal, did all of mine in 4 hours. Nice to use large pop rivet heads, and get the backing washers on the rivets when possible. Mine took 3/16 rivets, 1/2 inch long.

"Richard Clifton" <Richard.Clifton@fel0152.x400.icl.co.uk> Subject: FWD:Re: Europa Wheelwell Query Date: Tue, 08 Jun 99 09:15:00 +0100 I ordered mine from a Lotus specialist who I'm pretty sure got them direct from Lotus. These weren't waterproofed cardboard but seemed more like bituminised roofing felt. Whatever they are made of it is essential to block off the gap between the side bodywork and the wheel arch in order to prevent the seat belt anchorages from being given a permanent rust inducing bath. I think, once attached using pop rivets, they should be coated in underseal and edges sealed
with your choice of mastic.

If you want them to be really waterproof, cut up a Miniboggan. pethier@isd.net http://www.visi.com/mac/

"Tony Clark" <lotus.tony@airmail.net> Re: motor mount bolts/Whitworth Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 23:51:33 -0500
Mike Causer wrote of Whitworth fastener terminology: Excuse me! Whitworth _bolts_ are designated by the thread diameter just like all others, it's only the spanners (wrenches if you must) that are classified by the A/F head size -- just like UNC, UNF & all others.

MY Whitworth "spanners" aren't "head sized --just like UNC & UNF":

From: "Jason Rowan" <jrowan@ix.netcom.com> Subject: manual windshield washer pump repair (europa and others?) Date: Tue, 15 Jun 1999 10:47:30 –0700 Don't know if this will be of any use to anyone, but this weekend I fixed the manual washer pump on my Europa S2, and I thought I'd relay what I learned. The problem was that no matter how much I pumped it, no washer fluid would come out. The system is quite simple. Within the pump housing, there's a heavy rubber diaphragm which is actuated by pushing the washer knob. The diaphragm is shaped in a way that causes it to pop back when the knob is released, thereby sucking water into the pump. To keep the water from just moving back and forth within the system, there are two check valves. One check valve is pressed right into the outlet fitting of the pump, and the other is at the washer reservoir bag. The check valve in the pump outlet lets the water flow from the pump towards the nozzles when the knob is pressed, while keeping water from being sucked back in when the knob is released. The check valve on the reservoir bag lets the water flow from the bag into the pump when the knob is released, while keeping water from being pushed back into the bag when the knob is pressed. Both check valves are just small rubber diaphragms over an orifice which are held in place with a small spring. On my car, the outlet check valve was sticking open, which prevented water from being sucked from the reservoir bag to the pump. I diagnosed this by unplugging the pump outlet hose and using my finger as a check valve - if I plugged the outlet while releasing the knob the pump worked fine. I took apart the pump to have a closer look. This required hacking away about half of the plastic on the housing which retained the hose fitting piece to the pump housing. Once that was done, the whole pump could be taken apart. My first attempt at a fix was to just use a small screwdriver to gently poke
the outlet check valve, hoping that this would reseat it. I put the pump back together and all worked well for a few days, when the same problem reappeared. This time, I took apart the pump and used a small punch to drive out the check valve from the outlet fitting, and threw it away. I put the pump back together without the check valve and reinstalled it in the car. I then added a small brass Parker check valve with 1/4" compression fittings (=Swagelok fittings) and 1 psi cracking pressure into the outlet line. The compression fittings work by inserting the line, then tightening the nut. I spliced the check valve into the existing outlet line with the arrow pointing towards the nozzles. This type of check valve (or equivalent from lots of other mfgs.) should be available at any industrial welding or gas equipment shop for about $20. Or you can probably find a plastic one even cheaper.