bdboyle@fpe.erenj.com (Boyle, Bryan D.) Subject: AC in a 'Ropa Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 08:11:01 -0500
Aaron spake thus: >"squirrel cage" blower that feeds air to the air box in front. My Europa (Special) doesn't have this, if I remember correctly. It had something in the same place that I didn't recognize, with a mini radiator inside the air box (for heat?).

Seem to recall that you mentioned that A/C had been installed in your car at one time; this may be the cooling coil for the installation. Blow air thru it, cooling it down, and open up the dash vents...the front trunk is a fresh air plenum, so this may have been the mod that got your car its ac flow. Have a feeling that the compressor was taken out at some point or another if you can't find it in the engine compartment...

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: Europa Battery Question Date: Sun, 14 Mar 1999 07:29:39 -0800
Jerry Geil wrote: What is a good battery for a Lotus Europa Twin Cam? The previous owner of my car had a battery that was too large for the hold down system. I want to replace it so the battery can be solidly restrained. The workshop manual calls for an "Exide 6VTA 29L" 12-volt battery rated at 39 amp hours. None of the auto parts stores can figure out that rating. Batteries now are all rated in "cold cranking amps". What kind of cold cranking amps do I need for my Twin Cam?

Richard.Longo@usa.xerox.com writes: > Also the battery cable to the starter should be in top shape. And the ground braid from motor back to chassis, as Mark MarKell has reminded me to pay attention to round trip current path from battery through starter. PS: I fussed around with my Europa's starter before LOG-18, thinking the solenoid contacts were marginal. Mark put a meter on the battery and watched it drop to about 2 volts. Bingo! We replaced that guaranteed "Firebrick" battery with el cheapo discount store battery from my 72 Dodge Dart. Cranked like crazy.

BATTERY, Jump starting

Karl-Franz Marquez <karlfranz@bol.net> Subject: Re: Jump Start Question (E) Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 13:34:11 –0400 The donor car gets positive terminal to positive cable and negative teminal to negative cable. It is the car disabled car that has the negative cable connected to the block or some other suitable un-painted metal surface away from the battery. Heres all the steps: In cold weather, a good quality booster cable with four to six gauge wire is necessary to provide enough current to the disabled car to start the engine. (The smaller the wire gauge number, i.e., the larger the wire diameter, the better.) Please check the owner's manual for BOTH vehicles BEFORE attempting to jump start and follow the manufacturer's procedure because some cars should not be running during a jump start. However, starting the disabled car with the good car running can prevent having two disabled. DO NOT allow the booster cable clamps touch each other or the POSITIVE clamp to touch the frame or engine block.

1. If BELOW freezing, determine that the electrolyte is NOT frozen in the dead battery. If frozen, allow to thaw BEFORE proceeding. A discharged battery, i.e., battery voltage or 12.0 volts or less or specific gravity of 1.140 or less, will freeze at approximately 8 degrees F (-15 degrees C).

2. Without the cars touching, turn off all unnecessary accessories and lights on BOTH cars, insure there is plenty of ventilation, and put on some protective eye ware.

3. Start the car with the good battery and let it run for at least two or three minutes at fast idle to recharge it's battery BEFORE proceeding.

4. Connect the POSITIVE booster cable clamp (usually RED) to the POSITIVE terminal on the dead battery. Connect the POSITIVE booster cable clamp on the other end of the booster cable to the POSITIVE terminal on the good battery.

5. Connect the NEGATIVE booster cable clamp (usually BLACK) to the NEGITIVE terminal on the good battery and the NEGATIVE booster cable clamp on the other end to a clean, unpainted area on the engine block or frame on the disabled car AWAY from the battery.

6. Let the good car to continue to run at high idle for five minutes OR MORE to allow the dead battery to receive some recharge and to warm it's electrolyte.

7. Start the disabled car and allow to run at high idle. If the car does not start the first time, recheck the connections, wait a few minutes and try again.

8. Disconnect the booster cables in the REVERSE order, starting with the NEGITIVE clamp on the block or frame of the disabled car to minimize the possibility of an explosion.

9. As soon as possible, fully recharge and test the dead battery for latent or permanent damage as a result of the deep discharge.

SJMARCY@aol.com I came across an easy way to get super strong, precise between-the-sealed-bearing spacers. Drill jig bushings. For $ 3.66 each I obtained a few 1 3/16 ID straight simple bushes made of hard, high grade, well finished, shiny steel. They are a hair too long though and will need a quick lathe job to get them down to the 2 inch stock Special length. Earlier cars use 2 1/8 length spacers with the small inner bearings. The stock 30 mm stub axle diameter is quite a bit smaller than the stock tube-spacers. A loose fit is prone to problems since the spacer won't self center itself. A bad combo given known compressive yield issues. So at one section only about half of the stock tube more or less touches the bearing rings due to the loose fit.. Again, not so hot! By using a 1 3/16 drill jig bush with a precise, accurate ID we wind up about 0.006 inches larger than the stub axle OD. It pilots on the 30 mm portions of the stub axle at either end so it is very stable. The lathe work to cut the length down from 2 1/2 to 2 inches might take me about 15 minutes or so on my small lathe. Shorter lengths might be available - my supplier was out of stock. The Europas with the 31 mm ID inner bearings can't use that size. But it's a good idea to machine such a stub axle down to 30 mm OD anyway so that cheaper, readily available bearings can be used.. If you have it all apart, of course. Else use a larger ID drill jig bush.

magriese@us.ibm.com Subject: Fasteners Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 07:25:46 -0500
If you're looking to replace those rusty old fasteners in your car with nice clean stainless steel, a company called McMaster-Carr is worth a look. You can order single quantity bolts from their website http://www.mcmaster.com at their box rate. So, if you want 5 M8x45 bolts and the box price is $29.00 per 100, you pay 5x29/100 = $1.45. Don't work for them, don't own any part of them, but I did place an order for most of the external bolts, washers and nuts for my engine - total was around $120 including shipping.

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> If you have a used plate, the bent edges go down. One side will have three equally spaced holes, closest to the slight bend in the plate. That is the rear. Three 1/4 UNF screws go up into the frame (I would
recommend you install SS bolts here as they tend to rust in!) which have nuts welded on the inside of the frame to hold them. The front will have, IIRC, 6 holes, three for attachment (use fender washers) to the fiberglass, and one for the ground point (on the passenger side, just to the rear of the attachment bolt). There are two other 1/4 inch holes, for which I have no idea what they are used for.

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: How many holes (U) Date: Sun, 06 Jun 1999 13:30:12 –0700
David B Anderson wrote: How many holes are there in the front luggage area (boot, trunk) of a 1972 Europa Twin Cam? (not the spare wheel/tire area, the luggage area)

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> I too have to add the gas struts. The 74 models had the struts stock. Ken Landaiche has a drawing showing the lower supports needed to install the struts, the upper support, however, hasn't been drawn yet. The
normal Lotus suppliers still stock the struts (same as on an Eclat/Elite front strut). I haven't calculated the strut size yet, but plan to do so in the near future, just to save a few $$. Once two struts are on the hood/bonnett, no extra stiffing should be required as it will be evenly supported.

farberjf@us.ibm.com I brushed regular resin on ...... carefully. It did just what I wanted which was seal the surface and eliminate future problems........ It hardened and I sanded lightly to flatten. I primered and painted as ususal.

Mark Hollingsworth <markh@olympus.net>
> Im finding a lot of small hairline cracks or starbursts.. any easy way to seal them ?

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Don't go thru the primer, stop there. The starbursts/cracking is called "stress cracks" and is due the the brittleness of the gel coat on the fiberglass. R&D enterprizes sells what is called "tissue" which
is very thin fiberglass mat. You sand down thru the gel coat and then use this with resin to bring the surface back up. Works great, but is tedious, and the only way to prevent recurrance of the cracking. Don't try just filling and sealing, doesn't work.

"Peter M. Blackford" <pmbsab@naples.infi.net Subject: "clay" paint cleaner? Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 21:22:22 -0400
I don't know if anyone here is familiar with this product, but it's been getting some good press... this is just one of several notes: Just thought I would mention the use of this clay and my results. I only had the time to do the hood and roof today, but the results are GREAT! Before you could run your hand over the surface after just washing the car. You could feel all the "crap" that had planted itself on the paint. After using the Clay Magic on the surface, it was unbelievable how smooth it became. You could see in the clay all the crap it picked up. I then waxed the surface with carnuba and WOW! What a great shine. Hopefully I'll have the time to finish the rest of the car next weekend. I recommend this highly. My car is a 93 and has
never had anything but wax performed on the paint. This is now a must do. It is quite easy to do. It might add an extra 45min to 1 hr, but your car will love you for it. You can get this stuff from Don Mallinson. Check out his web site http://www.dccarcare.com. It is a small investment to help your paint. (probably available elsewhere, as well... not a commercial message).

"Tim Engel" <tengel@isd.net> Subject: Stripping FRP (was Re: Comments?) Using a chemical stripper to take paint off a fiberglass part can be risky. I've gotten away with it, but I've only tried it on small parts I wouldn't cry over if things went south. I wouldn't want to risk it on a car body. If the stripper gets to the glass fiber, it will wick into the matte or weave. Once in there, it's difficult or impossible to get out. Depending upon the type of chemistry, it may actually attack the FRP, or it may just make painting problematic. A "little" pocket of stripper in the fibers will attack any paint that is applied over it and cause it to lift or blister. Some strippers are stronger that others. The strongest ones will actually attack the resin in a FRP part. I used a water based chemical stripper to take some paint off a fiberglass laminated wood structure (fuselage of an RC sailplane), and ended up taking all the glass off with the first application. Milder strippers may not attack the resin and the gelcoat may protect the fiber matte/ cloth from the nastier effects. May. If the gelcoat is intact and crack free. But any chip that exposes the matte, any stress crack that allows the gel to wick into the fiber, any stress crack repair in progress that exposes fibers... is potentially a problem. The gentleman who purchased my late '71 Europa S2 decided it need to be stripped and resprayed (and it did). He took it to a specialty body shop known for the beautiful work they did on Porsches, BMW's and Mercedes... but no fiberglass cars. They chemically stripped it. There was a small starburst stress crack in the center of the roof. After stripping the car, they repaired the starburst and repainted the car. About a month later the paint blistered where the star had been. They sanded it down and repainted. It blistered. Sanded and painted. It blistered. I saw the car periodically for several years afterwards and it always had the blister. The roof was repainted several times and the blister always returned. I don't know what stripper they used... sorry. But I know I won't use a chemical stripper on a fiberglass car. Sand it or take it in to be media blasted. If you blast it, be aware that blasting has a whole can of worms all it's own. Aggressive, hard media or high pressure can do severe damage to a fiberglass body... light weight Lotus bodies in particular. Go to someone experienced in blast-stripping fiberglass, have a serious heart-to-heart about the delicate nature of Lotus bodywork, use only "soft" media like plastic, ground walnut shells or soda and keep the pressure low. Go slow. Strip the gray primer and sand from there.

I'm not trying to be an alarmist, but there are some risks you should know about. I do suggest you invest in some sand paper. However, if you do continue with the chem-strip, don't try to take it all the way down chemically. It sounds like there's a lot of paint build up on your car, so be happy with just chem-stripping the upper layer, then sand it the rest of the way down to the primer. When you are done, wash the car thoroughly with acetone. Then let it sit and bake in the hot sun for a month or more to drive out any volatiles before attempting to paint it. Regards, Tim Engel

21 Mar 99, Mark MarKell <Type46@micro-engineering.com> wrote: I seem to remember a note from someone about strippers used on glass being not a good idea. Is that so? Something > about absorption or damage at the gel-coat level?

Do not use paint strippers. It will be absorbed into the 'glass, and later it will bleed out and ruin the paint job. The only good way is to sand it down. Good 'ol manual labor... If you are interested in a *good* body shop that specializes in Lotus, Evans Leinbach in Salisbury North Carolina, does *excellent* work. He did my car, and several other have seen it, and taken their car to him also. For what it's worth, my Elan won Best of Show at the LOG 18, mostly due to Evan's paint job (and body work). Several others at the LOG also decided to take their car to him after seeing mine... The pictures aren't very high resolution, but check out my web site <http://www.erols.com/elans4/> Tim Mullen, Chantilly, VA 72 Elan Sprint

Stripping -- how to have more fun. By Joel Farber

I found that I had to push quite vigorously on the tools to get the paint off, and was surprised that the amount of force used didn't hurt the glass at all. The stripper didn't harm metal or ordinary glass, but be careful near rubber or synthetics. Again, PROTECT YOUR EYES.

JerTigger@aol.com Subject: Fwd: Stripping Paint - Europa Special Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 17:58:24 EST
I am currently removing all the paint from my 72 Europa TC. The best product I could find for the price is BIX all finish paint remover. It costs about $10 per gallon at Home Depot. I slop it on thick, reapply several times to keep it wet over the course of 1 1/2 hours then use a plastic putty knife and it comes off like a gob of slime. This car has been repainted twice, very thick coats and most areas I get it down to the first coat of primer if not to the gel coat.

I have read the GGLC article and do not entirely agree with it. I don't understand "sanding leads to waves - unavoidably", unless it is understood that sanding off all the primers (block sanded at the factory) and fillers (applied and sanded in repairs later) reveal all the imperfections in the moulding. Some of these flaws were there from manufacture, some appear over time with aging and expansion/contraction of the resin in the structure. Others from damage. What I'm getting at is that 80% of a repair/repaint is sanding fillers and primers to a perfect, flaw-free shape. And for that to remain fairly stable over the years, you should remove all the old layers of paint, primer etc. Some say to leave at least the factory primer under the original color to save some of this effort, but I have not often found this to be practical. The very best info on stripping, repairing and painting Lotus bodies is Miles Wilkins' two books in the Osprey Restoration series - out of print. Apparently they are still available from www.Lotus-Books.com in Germany. I highly recommend you study these. –Randall

Mark Hollingsworth <markh@olympus.net> Subject: Re: Fwd: Stripping Paint - Europa Special Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 08:59:33 –0800 I personally wouldn't use any paint stripper. I know people that have, but there is too good of a chance of getting it into the gel coat. Even if it doesn't damage it, there is a good posibility of later problems with paint contamination. Sanding. I hate to say it, but thats really the best way. Try not to go through the original primer (if it is still there). If the paint it original, I'd sand with 180grit, nothing heavier. That can take a long time, but you have solves the problem of sand scratches showing through the final paint. Sanding it wet will make the paper work much better and last longer.

farberjf@us.ibm.com I didnt have any residual solvent problems at all. But after stripping I had many different surfaces (repairs / different types of glass.....). I painted on the thinnest possible coat of glass epoxy resin ---then sanded. It gave me one uniform surface to prime. Might have been overkill but I got good results. Keep in mind that Miles Wilkens --- THE Lotus factory reccomended restoration guy strips..... If you look down a bit in the www.gglotus.org site in the forsale Section I have a picture of my +2 painted.

JerTigger@aol.com My Europa had three finish coats plus several coats of primer in between, had alligator cracks,etc. all the way down. I heard many horror stories about paint strippers after I started. Used BIX stripper from Home Depot let it stay on for about 1 1/2 hours with rewetting in between. I did not have any problems with softening the fiberglass, except I left the small cup I used to hold the remover on the car upside down over night, softened the gelcoat and fiber glass base, no problem only one more patch out of many. It has been about three months since I did that so the chemical should be gassed out by now plus much wet sanding. I had many other things to do on the car and sit will be about another month before it sees primer.

"Warren Hartenstine" <whartenstine@earthlink.net> I stripped, using NAPA 6802, a water-soluble, lower strength stripper. When I applied a sufficient amount, the color coat blistered within 10 minutes and the primer stayed in tact. I washed the car twice after each day's work - about two days.

"Phil Ethier" <pethier@isd.net> (by way of Phil Ethier <phil.ethier@ci.stpaul.mn.us>) Subject: Europa Body Removal
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 08:27:50 –0800 From: VACUUMTUBE@aol.com <VACUUMTUBE@aol.com> >Does anyone happen to have a list of steps to follow to remove said body from a 74 TC Special? That is, what must first be released before removing the body.

This is from an exchange with Cory Carpenter, in which I told him about my 1970 Europa S2 chassis' out-of-body experience

Remove manifolds. Probably not necessary with stock manifold, but was with my side-draft. I had to take out one of the coolant hoses, too, but maybe on a stock car you can skip out on it.

Remove seats.

Remove inboard seat belt mounts. They go through the body to the frame. Outboard mounts can stay with the body.

Remove brake and clutch pedal assembly, as it through-bolts to frame. Pull the clutch cable all the way from the clutch. Don't forget to reassemble the cable parts. The little barrel that fits the clutch arm clevis is the only part I lost over the time the car was apart. This could only be due to inattention at the time of disassembly.

Remove throttle pedal. Trust me. It blocks access to the hand-brake. Pull the throttle cable all the way out of the car, after disconnecting at the carb end.

Remove hand-brake arm. The umbrella handle can stay attached to the body. The bolt that holds the arm to the frame is reached by removing the rubber plug in the bottom of the trunk/plenum. This is bitch. I have no idea how I am going to hook it up again, but am looking forward to some contortionism and cursing. (I did manage to get it together when the time came. It was a real challenge. Wish I could tell you how I did it, but it was one of those things that just finally came together, amid general rejoicing.)

Remove both coolant hoses from radiator and frame tubes in the nose section.

Remove steering column.

Remove frame-body closing plate. I put this off until later. I was wrong.

Remove brake master cylinder. Four bolts hold the base to the frame. There is a loose plate inside the frame that is tapped for the bolts. This is going to be really fun to refit (I discovered a trick for reinstallation: Bolt the loose plate inside the frame without the master-cylinder base. Drill a hole through the frame and plate in the middle, between the big holes. Install a
pop-rivet. Remove the bolts and the plate stays put whilst you install the master-cylinder base with the four bolts. The bottom ones are easier to reach with the frame-body closing plate out.)

The link from the (now removed) brake pedal will come with the base. To get the base out after the bolts are out, either raise the steering rack or remove the lower closing plate. I moved the rack. I was wrong. Closing plate is easier. Be very careful around the nose after the closing plate is out, as the nose has no support and you can crack the glass over the wheelwells.

Remove shift knob.

Remove console cover.

At the center base of the dashboard are two angle brackets. Remove the vertical bolts that secure them to threaded bosses in the frame.

Remove hoses that run from frame to heater cores.

Remove three body/frame bolts from each side of the tunnel on the firewall behind the seat area. There are nuts on the other end, on angles welded to the frame.

Remove one body/frame bolt from each side on the rear of frame rails flanking the gearbox.

Remove one body/frame bolt from each side of the trunk/plenum area. There are supposed to be rubber plugs covering these, but of course the plugs were missing on my car. In fact, the BOLTS were missing! I really wonder about some of the previous owners of this car.

If front closing plate is still attached, remove the two bolts that hold it to the nose. If you have been paying attention to my mistakes, you have already removed this part.

If you are going to work on fuel tanks, unfasten them now. Loosen the clamps and release the filler hoses. The tanks are held into the body by several tiny nut-bolt combos. If you still have the factory splash covers in front of the rear wheels, and of course I don't, they will have to come out to reach the nuts. When the tanks are loose, drop them to the floor. You will not be able to remove them yet. (When I put the tanks back in, I used bigger [!] 1/4-inch bolts, nylock nuts and large fender washers.)

Make a flat cart to match the width of the car and the length of the rocker panels. Use four casters, not fixed wheels. Pad the top.

Call the troops. You will need at least six besides yourself.

Be sure everything is ready. Shift the gearbox to neutral. Have the muscular types lift on the wheelwells. Remember to lift only near the back of the front ones. Nobody lifts on the nose.

Yank out the fuel tanks.

Roll the chassis straight back and out of the way. Be sure the tires and gear lever miss the body.

Roll the cart in from the side. Have the muscular types lower the body onto the cart.

Let the muscular types make jokes about putting a motorcycle saddle on the frame and driving it. :-)

Have one of the attending Lotus enthusiasts convince you to remove everything from the frame, strip and repaint it. :-) :-)

(Good thing, too. I found a couple of cracks that had to be repaired.)

(When I put the body back on, I replaced all the water-trapping felt with closed-cell foam.) pethier@isd.net

"Ed & Ruth Young" <lotusracer@home.com> Subject: Europa body removal Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 08:29:04 -0600
Many years ago, I removed the body from my Twin Cam Europa. Some helpful tips follow. Of course, you will want to remove all attaching bolts, gearshift knob, the seats(to lighten the body even more) and the oil pressure line(that's the one I almost forgot). I then started by jacking the body slowly off the frame, a little here, a little there to make sure that I indeed had undone all the important things. After raising it quite a bit, I took some long 4X4's and slid them through the wheel arch openings, one at the front 'T' section and one at the rear. They were long enough for my helpers to grab onto and to lift the body with. No wheel arch grabbing please! We lifted it up, clearing the shifter and walked it out of the garage. Later, we carried it back in, and set it down on the other half of the garage. When I put the body back on, I did it all by myself. I took 2 'come alongs', attaching one to the center of the 4X4 in the rear, which I had bolted to the body to prevent slipping, and the other one I attached to 2 eyebolts that I had attached to the 4X4 in the front through the shock bolt access holes. Winched the body up, rolled the chassis back under it, and slowly lowered it back on. A couple of clicks in front, a couple of clicks in the rear, watching and adjusting position of the chassis as I went. Once the body was resting on the 4X4's that were resting on the chassis, I took the jacks and raised the body back up enough to unbolt the 4X4's and slide them out. Then, all I needed to do was to lower it back off of the jacks. As light as the Europa body is, this was extremely easy on the back.

Steve Shipley <shiples@home.com> Subject: Re: Rubber treatment Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 18:06:37 -0700
I use Meguiar's #40 for appearance. With 1 year's experience I can't vouch for the long term performance claims.

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Warren Hartenstine wrote: It appears to me from the manual and from my memory of removing them that you would install the chrome strip and clips, and put the two sided tape on the car. It appears to me from the manual and from my memory of removing them that you would install the chrome strip and clips, and put the two sided tape on the car just below the chrome clips. Then push the sill straight up, nesting the lead edge under the chrome strip, against the two sided tape, and into the bottom clip at the same time. I do know that my sills were pretty tightly nested up under that chrome strip. Manual says, "To remove the trim sills, drill out pop rivet at both front and rear top edges, ease sills away from body at their upper edges, and remove by pushing down away from the clip. Replace by reversing these instructions." Can scan and send drawing, such as it is, if you want.

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Landaiche Ken (Nokia/PL) wrote: I don't. But I do have one that was painted with some gawdoffal gold metal flake paint. It doesn't match the one on the other side of the car. Does anyone know what the official paint is for that sill? And while we're at it, does anyone know what double sided tape to use for installing it?

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Landaiche Ken (Nokia/PL) wrote: This is getting interesting. What gun are you using for the paint work? And do you have a booth set up, or renting space as needed? And what do you mean about tiger stripes? As I recall, the sparkly paint is gold, right? I find it hard to believe that all Europa Special color scemes would use the same sill color, except that it would be cheaper :)

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Subject: E(U)ropa Update - Brake saga continues Sat, 20 Mar 1999 21:14:04 -0800
Just an update as things progress. The glass guy came to the house again, third time! The front winshield was installed on the second trip, glued in with urethane instead of the old butyl type mastic. He says its the new legal glue and 9 times stronger than the butyl. The chrome plastic trim was really a mess, he stuck it on the window after warming it and brought the window up "encapsulated", but it was still wavey and malformed. He cleaned the grove in the car, put a foam "dam" in (a 1/4 inch square foam strip which keeps the glue from oozing all over), and put a black primer in and then put a 1/4 x 3/4 inch bead of glue in the groove. Then he put the windshield with trim attached in his truck and turned up the heater. It sure was warm when he removed it and the trim really became pliable. We then just stuck in on. It looks pretty good now - not perfect but presentable. The rear window was a different matter though, on the first trip he made a pattern, on the second trip we tried to install it, but he cut it too small. So today he returned with a new window and worked from 9:30 AM straight to 3
PM putting that thing in. Finally, he got the whole thing in, even with all the right tools, that window is a bear!! So I'm $250 poorer but much happier .:-)

"Al Hostettler" <honor@erinet.com> Subject: Europa rear window Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 20:23:59 –0500 I feel as if great progress was made tonight. I started at 6:05 pm to install my rear window. At 7:27 pm I was cleaning things up. While it is not the easiest job and some help would probably be helpful, I did it myself and really did not think it was that bad. I was really afraid this would be a major job, so I had reserved this Saturday to do this. Now what will I do with Saturday? I have to admit it is not a perfect job. Even though I was stretching the molding it came up about 1/8 inch short. Well after looking at it a bit I decided it was OK. Then I installed the plastic retaining trim. I stretched this too but came up about 1/2 inch short. Well this will just have to do, besides maybe that is how it was originally. I have some black silicone that will seal it up water tight and it will be fine. Now if only the heater core is as easy.

thomas.b.smith1@jsc.nasa.gov writes: > What is the earlier windshield surround?
Black rubber channel, narrow silver plastic locking strip. If the strip ages, you just paint it black for a nice look. Or, you black it out from day one to keep it simple. The visual effect of the silver strip in the black rubber is similar to that of any 1991-1998 Lincoln Town Car, around all side windows and rear screen. Since you are in Texas, there should be plenty of those Lincolns around -- nice "land yacht" or "prarie schooner" huh? Mine was my "beltway battlecruiser" in the D.C. area! ken ritchie atlanta

Jay Mitchell <jemitchell@compuserve.com> Jason Rowan wrote: <snip> Basically, after a short drive the brakes won't release all the way, the brake lights stay on, and all the brakes get nice and hot.

Sounds like you've got residual hydraulic pressure that's not being released. That's the only way the brake lights would stay on. Something must be functioning as a "one way valve," allowing the pressure to increase but then retaining it when you release the pedal. Is the pedal being fully returned to its rest position? I'd check the Mc/pedal linkage and make sure that the pedal and MC have positive return action.

Mark Hollingsworth <markh@olympus.net> It sounds to me as if you have a bad flex brake hose. I've had those act
like one way valves before, they pump up, but will not release. Replace your hoses- probably due anyway.

"Mark MarKell" <Type46@micro-engineering.com> It sounds like the MC/pedal is not retracting all the way or is not adjusted to come all the way back when released. You said you replaced the MC and the adjustment would be suspect. Check and adjust the pedal free play at the MC.

"SMITH, THOMAS B. (JSC-DX)" <thomas.b.smith1@jsc.nasa.gov> Since all four brakes are binding and the brake light stays on, I would suspect the master cylinder, or the transfer mechanism on the front frame. Also, the pedal itself could be binding. Does the pedal return completely? Try pulling up on it and have someone see if the lights go out. Try to operate the pedal by hand to check for binding, free return etc. Also check the booster, if equipped. I've had one go bad on my Seven which caused the exact same thing.

"Ed & Ruth Young" <lotusracer@home.com> Subject: (U)Europa booster/brake question Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1999 14:15:51 –0600 I am forwarding this question for a friend who is the original owner of a 1974 Europa Twin Cam. His only e-mail is through work, and he is unable to subscribe to the list there. So, therefore I am posting this question for him :

>Nearly two years ago, I went through the process of rebuilding the brake >boosters of my Europa Special. Heeding the advice of Ray Psulkowski at R.D.Enterprises, I had the bores resleeved, and from Steve Styer's recommendation, by White Post Restorations. This was not cheap ($50 per bore, 5 bores per cylinder body, 2 bodies for the car), nor were the rebuild kits at $120 each. After all of that, imagine my disappointment when upon application, the brake pedal slowy but surely starts to push back at me! No matter how hard I push, the brake pedal continues it's travel back upwards. This really reduces one's confidence level when driving the car, especially in traffic. I have called White Post, and they seem puzzled by this too. Are you aware of anyone who has had this experience?

>Also, one extra favor....I would appreciate if someone could tell me what the "theory of operation" is for these boosters, which are the Girling Powerstop Mk2B remote servos. If nothing else, I could try to figure out the problem if only I knew how the crazy things worked! My e-mail address is sarro_carl@videojet.com, phone number at work is (630)860-7394 x1853, or (847)464-5213 at home.

I am about to remove the last brake booster from my '74 Special and thought I might share what I have learned so far. According to DBE the TC MC is .875. When removing the boosters the logical replacement would be the MC from an S2 Europa, except it was discontinued by Girling years ago. DBE specs it as .700. What I intend to try is to have the current MC sleeved in brass to .700, then have the pistons turned to match and use an S2 rebuild kit. Jerry Rude has drawings with the S2 internal dimensions for getting the pistons setup. I plan on getting the piston work done first, and then sending the whole lot to Whitepost or Apple and having them do the complete rebuild. I'll keep the list updated as this project progresses. Tom Rollins 1974 Lotus Europa Special 4158R tom@ntcs-inc.com

Robert "Fast Bob" Scheib <Robert.Scheib@gte.net> Your attempts to bleed out your Europa's brake system sounds very familiar - my car had sat for about 9 years when I bought it, and the brakes weren't working "very well" when I drove it home!! Oh my, now thats a story!! After many attempts at flushing and bleeding - the flushed out fluid looked the same- nasty, and there just did'nt seem to be much pedal effort, although the m.cyl. held pressure when it's line fittings were plugged. I finally realized that the boosters were leaking internally, and were filling up with fluid! You may be experiencing the same thing. During my cars restoration process I've replumbed the brakes to be "non-boosted", installed a S2
mastercylinder and Aeroquip flex lines. I now have a very firm pedal with just the right effort and "feel". If you want to keep your boosters [a real undertaking to rebuild!!] and existing mastercylinder, I would recommend sending the m.cyl. to "Whitepost Restorations" to be rebored and brass sleeved - I've had super good results from this operation. A "hone" and new seals are a waste of time.

Ken Landaiche <ken.landaiche@dlcc.com> Subject: RE: Europa Pedal Drawing! Wed, 17 Mar 1999 09:41:27 –0800

From: whs018@conrad.appstate.edu [mailto:whs018@conrad.appstate.edu Am I asking for trouble using boosterless brakes on a Europa? Since the Europa uses a single cylinder setup, wouldn't it be too much trouble to convert the car to use double cylinders?

My TC Special came to me without any boosters. I changed toa smaller master cylinder. It works well. It uses a single cylinder, but two brake circuits. So a dual cylinder setup would require some cutting, but the plumbing would be preserved. The stock Europa's brake balance isn't the best. Having dual cylinders, and the associated variable balance bar, would allow precise tuning of fore-aft braking. That was what Mike referred to.

Jerry Rude gdrude@pacbell.net Subject: Re: (U)Europa booster/brake question Wed, 17 Mar 1999 21:13:30 -0800
Join Lotus Ltd for $20 and get the Europa book for $15, it has an article on using the Europa without the brake boosters. It involves utilizing lower quality brake pads/shoes to achieve a high enough coefficient of friction. Or convert to a S2 master cylinder, or have yours sleeved down to the S2 size and have the pistons machined down to match. The S2 and the TC cylinders are the same design, only difference is the piston/bore diameters.

Now on the GGLC site - 3 new tech articles... An excellent one from Jerry Rude detailing the conversion of TC Europa brakes to non-boosted system using S2 dual master cylinder. http://www.gglotus.org

The stock calipers are Spitfire and are still easy and cheap to obtain, so I don't worry much about them. Phil Ethier Saint Paul Minnesota USA Lotus Europa, VW Quantum Syncro, Chev Suburban LOON, TCVWC, MAC pethier@isd.net http://www.visi.com/mac/

Randall Fehr <rsfehr@seanet.com> Subject: RE: Euro-spec Europa (U) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 1999 07:08:47 -0800
"Peter M. Blackford" <pmbsab@naples.infi.net> Anyone on the List know of any replacement calipers in aluminum or SS? At worst, yours may need to be resleeved (White Post Restorations has been hignly recommended by others...)

No need re-sleeve these calipers. The piston seals against an o-ring located in the caliper bore. The actual bore surface in the caliper has no sealing function, and as long as it is clean will not interfere with piston movement. Randall

Keith Gustafson <gusmach@shore.net> Subject: Re headlights & brake fluid Date: Tue, 8 Jun 1999 13:43:19 -0400
This same conversation keeps coming up about silicone brake fluid. I have been running silicone in my +2 for 14 years, covering about 65k miles in that time, with NO problems. It bleeds fine, works fine etc. etc. I have no idea where this info comes from.

Robert Tufts <rbt@frontiernet.net> Subject: Re: Re headlights & brake fluid Date: Tue, 8 Jun 1999 16:18:59 -0400
You have to be very careful installing the stuff. Because of the viscosity it traps micro air bubbles. You wouldn't want to take a can that got shaken real good and try to bleed it and when overheated at the track all these micro air bubbles expand. It is also not compatable with all seals (check on indivual basis). also it's not recommended on some ABS systems because of different viscosity. On a daily driver (brakes not heated like the track) it could be just fine, but it could be expensive and a lot more problems than it's worth for a car used occaisionally at the track (bleeding often anyway). To each their own but I'll choose the cheaper DOT 3 FORD Heavy Duty and bleed as required for the track. (bleeding often removes moisture buildup).

Robert Tufts <rbt@frontiernet.net> Subject: Re: ABS brake fluid Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 14:22:42 –0400

Here's one article: http://www.houston-bmwcca.com/articles/avoiding_brake_problems.html. Another:
http://www.c-edge.com/shotimes/SHO4brakes.html. And another: http://www.cardone.com/news/may5.htm.

From: SJMARCY@aol.com In a message dated 6/16/99 7:55:08 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Briggs1@ix.netcom.com writes: Wondering if you would be good enough to share your knowledge on changing the rear brakes to discs. I have been thinking about it for a while and curious if you've decided on which ones to use. I know Banks sells a conversion kit but I would expect that there is a more economical way to go.

That comes later I am sure that there are a number of good ways to do it. I'd like to eventually do it inboard, so I am allowing for that possibility from the outset. Therefore my discs might be flat racing style designs with a series of bolts which retain the disc to a "hat" sized as required. Or else a cheapey OEM style disc from a small car. To go inboard the inner yoke would need to have disc mounts fitted to it. And a caliper mount would be needed too. I am not positive if the transaxle turns accurately enough for such an approach - to avoid knockback and runout issues. Conventional outboard discs could be mounted over the stock hub with an allowance for the offset change. I want to keep the offset stock so that wheel choices aren't complicated. Minor hub mods can allow such an offset. While I am at it I want to ditch the stock built-in threaded section on the Special (and all europa) stub axle. By cutting it off and retaining the hub via drilling and tapping the stub axle to accept an alloy steel bolt. This gets rid of an area that has been known to fail from metal fatigue - which leads to a wheel
coming off.... For calipers, something small and light such as a wilwood alloy piece, vette rears, or similar may be used. For caliper mounts some of the stock car places sell stamped steel pieces which can be welded onto the steel suspension arms. I really don't like disc front drum rear since the two systems apply and release differently. And I have heard that rear drums
for the Special are hard to find. I have done brake upgrades to a number of different cars so I am not too worried about it.

"Jay Mitchell" <jemitchell@compuserve.com> All the comments re overhaul of Europa MCs, calipers, etc., have
reminded me of some serious caveats. These apply to brake hydraulics in general, and there's nothing about Lotus brakes that makes them immune. Here goes:

1. Honing ANY brake cylinder or caliper is not a good idea. The honing process increases the inside diameter of the cylinder – it must in order to remove pits - the result being that replacement rubber cups are much more likely to turn over when the piston moves (possibly when you first reassemble the part). All cleanup of bores should be done with 600 grit sandpaper, with sanding debris being washed off with brake fluid. If there are pits or scores too deep to completely remove using this method, the cylinder in question should not be considered rebuildable. Wheel cylinders or calipers with rust pitting or deep linear or circumferential scoring should under no circumstances be reused, as early failure of the rebuilt part is virtually assured.

2. Dual circuit MCs should be replaced rather than rebuilt. Even if the bore is in excellent condition, the odds of turning one or more of the cups as you reinsert the pistons is great. In my 20+ year experience with dual circuit MCs, I'd say that successful rebuild odds are 50-70%. And that's just the odds of the cylinder working long enough to bleed the brakes upon reinstallation.

3. S2 MCs have been discontinued by Girling since 1987. I currently have an ATE unit for a 1973 Super Beetle on mine, but that requires a bit of modification to the car. The simplest solution is to fit a single-circuit MC purchased from a racing supply house. Units from Girling, Tilton, Wilwood, and Lockheed all have bolt spacing that matches the holes in the chassis, and the changeover will only require that you remove the brake linkage box from the car and fit the new MC, along with some simple replumbing to combine both brake circuits. The requisite fittings, tubing, flare tools, etc. are all readily available
from aforementioned racing supply houses. These MCs will generally be rebuildable one or two times, and kits are also readily available.

I know there's some interest in maintaining a car's originality here, but, IMHO, it's far more important for my car's brakes to
stop it than to have them in their original configuration. Keep in mind that non-Federal Europas all came with a single circuit
braking system, and that the dual circuit system is not generally more reliable than a single circuit one. My $.02, Jay

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Would you like a copy of the lucas assembly drawing that comes with the rebuild kit? or do you have that? Are you are referring to the "tip valve" it inserts from the outside of the cylinder, with the cone end down, and is held in by the allen set screw "which is hollow". You have to put both pistons in first however as the tip valve holds the pistons in until you get the rod and plate in with the clip. Kind of tricky beings the pistons are spring loaded. So you have to devise a way to hold the pistons in far enough until you put in the "tip valve" and tighten the allen set screw. Then carefully release the pistons and then put on the rod and holding plate. Hope this helps, all going from memory though. If you need any one part, I have a few spares from the kits I've used. make sure you coat things with the red grease and bench bleed the cylinder before installing into the car.

paul a zielinski <paulzielinski@juno.com> Subject: S2 Europa Cross Drilled Brake Rotors Date: Sat, 10 Apr 1999 21:23:54 –0400 Just got a pair of cross-drilled brake rotors from Moss Motors. In conjunction with the May 1 New Jersey Britfest 99, I got the pair from Moss at 15% discount with free Priority mail shipping! All in all, a decent deal I think. And prices for all Moss stuff will go up soon. These are Spitfire discs of course, and are identical to Lotus-Lucas discs. These discs have a beautiful golden, corrosion free surface. And they weigh 4.5 lb each. The Lotus-Lucas disc weighs 5.0 lb each.

paul a zielinski <paulzielinski@juno.com> I forgot to add. With the Britfest 99 discount (intended for those attending Britfest 99 in New Jersey), I paid for $162 US for the pair. This included New Jersey sales tax and free shipping. Normally, Moss sells these for about $90 each. I've seen then offered by other Triumph specialists in the $80s. But wait! The manufacturer/supllier is: Autospecialty of Carson, Ca. Part #s EBR-065L, EBR-065R. Maybe a better price can be found.

The Moss Motors web site has a picture of the rotors http://www.mossmotors.com/britishaccessories/mechanicalsystems/brakes/crossdrilledrotor.html
Could you comment on the quality of the cross drilled holes. Were they nicely chamfered or stress relieved? It would be a shame if they were to develop cracks! Cheers, Ross

davea@quasar.engr.sgi.com (David B Anderson) europa, brake pipe Wed, 17 Mar 1999 11:01:37 -0800 (PST)
>Let me clear up what I ment by copper-nickle brake tubing. I originally saw it in a Moss Motors (nice MG/Triumph/Healy parts) catalog. It may have been imported from Europe, but it isn't copper, its an alloy. Its supposed to be easier to bend and won't rust. That's all I know. Moss (www.mossmotors.com) sells this material as a 'set' for a particular car. Not as plain lengths of pipe. (Could not find on line, called 1-800-235-6954, toll free in USA, to talk to a human being.)

whs018@conrad.appstate.edu Subject: Re: Cu-Ni (Monel) brake tube, Bean Thu, 18 Mar 1999 20:26:56 -0500 (EST)
The copper-nicle tubing that Moss caries is "equivalent to C70600 (90% copper, 10% nickle)." The product they sell is manufactured in the UK and made to fit cetain cars (none of which are Lotus). They claim that this type of brake tubing is "used by Volvo, Rolls Royce, Lotus (!), Aston Martin, Porsche, and Audi" and they add "so you know its good." They also say that the brake lines are for the _high pressure_ part of the brake system. Any listers know where I can get this kind of brake tubing here in the US?

Adrian Rose <Adrian.Rose@triad.plc.uk> Subject: Re: Cu & Cu-Ni brake tubes Fri, 19 Mar 1999 12:34:59 -0000
A UK supplier who might be able to help you US folks: According to their catalogue, Demon Tweeks do both Copper and Copper Nickel brake pipe. They claim the copper tube is slightly more malleable that the copper nickel, and is tested to 10,000 psi – apparently double SAE specs. The Copper Nickel is 60% higher than this and meets German TUV specs.

They list it as
copper, 3/16 * 25ft GBP 11.14
copper, 1/4 * 25ft GBP 16.84
copper nickel, 3/16 * 25ft GBP 13.32
copper nickel, 1/4 * 25ft 28.84
all plus 17.5% VAT for UK and shipping.

Their number is +44 1978 664466, and they are set up for international orders. Web site at:
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/

"Jeff Cocking" <jeff@cocking.com> Subject: RE: Cu & Cu-Ni brake tubes Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 08:35:49 -0600
I was reviewing an article in a 93 issue of Your Classic. It had a big ad for a company called Automec. They specialize in Copper Brake Pipes. They sell premade sets for Loti as per their ad. Their address is as follows:

Automec Equipment & Parts
36 Ballmoor
Buckingham MK 18 1RQ
Tel: 0280 822818

traff@ICON.HMSD.UFL.EDU writes: > Maybe I'm repeating old info, but there are a few interesting tech articles at the Dimebank web site. I found the one on brake tubing of interest. http://www.dimebank.com/tech/

dan.morrison@autodesk.com I bought one from NAPA. Can't vouch for the results yet though. I haven't driven the car yet.

whs018@conrad.appstate.edu Subject: Re: Twink carbs – federal Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 19:32:05 -0500 (EST) I never thought that SU's could go on a Europa, but I don't see why not!:-) Moss Motors sells a lot of SU carbs and they prive SU HS6 carbs (two of them, 1 3/4", says they will fit an MGB) for $700. That's *much* cheaper than Webers, and there's no machine work required. Does that sound like overkill, or does the twink like smaller carbs? Banks (in UK) sell Dellorto carbs for about $400 a pair, the last time I looked. Are the Dellortos (original size for Euro-spec) any better?

ClassMaker@aol.com Subject: Re: Twink carbs – federal Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 06:47:15 EST Because SU's (& Strombergs) are "variable venturi" carbs, they have a more flexible operating range. You can use a big throat carb like that, yet get the advantages of more torque (as from a smaller venturi) while taking off from idle and so on. With Weber or Dellorto, you are stuck with a "fixed choke" (main venturi) and you have to choose... optimize either the low end (torque) or the top end (power) -- you can't have both.. Compared to Webers... Dellortos have more progression holes--passages that drop fuel into the main venturies (also called "chokes"--but not to be confused w/starters). This provides a smoother transition between idle and main fuel circuits. Lotus was part of the Dellorto development process. In fact, the later the model (of either brand) the more progression holes you'll find. The earlier Webers started with 2. Early Dellortos had 3 (I've got those). The last of the Dellortos had 6 (six!). Richie Longo has experience in drilling extra holes in earlier carbs... but you've gotta know it is tricky. The SU's (variable venturi) are your least costly and most flexible option. And, if you ever get bit by the autocrossing bug, you'll be able to run in the SCCA "A Street-Prepared" (ASP) classes, a near-stock category.

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: Europa Update Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 20:17:09 –0700 I removed the butterflys and shafts, made a small plug from aluminum and pressed them in. An easier way would be to remove the butterfly and grind it down such that its equal in width to the shaft except at the ends so the shaft won't slip out of the manifold. The shaft will give minimum resistance yet look functional from the outside. Your choice. As you're pretty clever, other solutions may present themselves. Just keep the holes plugged in some way. If you grind it down and replace the screws, make sure you loctite them in so they don't drift into the cylinders.
>
> 3) To remove the 'evaporative loss' stuff, I just undo all the hoses, right?

Uhh, no. Cap where you remove them from on the air box on the carbs, and the vaccuum lines to the carbs. The ones that lead to the gas tanks should have a long tube each leading down alongside the tanks to a small filter (like on your gas powered RC vehicle's fuel filter) to act as a flame trap (right Ken?). This is what I used on mine, can't see it, and it's light.

CARBERATERS, Manual

Steve Brightman <Steve.Brightman@dalsemi.com> Subject: Fuel Pump OK Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 11:07:42 -0500
Although you'll never find a Haynes manual for a Lotus, they do one on Stromberg carbs. I found it useful during those years I was unfortunate enough to own Strombergs.

JerTigger@aol.com Subject: Stromberg carb jets Date: Fri, 2 Apr 1999 23:23:45 EST I recently replaced the needles and jets in my carbs, couldn't get the tool to remove and replace jets. It was suggested to install the new jets by using a punch. This didn't look like it would work. I found that an 1/8" pipe nipple fit over the bottom of the jet and was able to drive them in perfectly, except one went in to far. OOPS! Now how too drive it back down without distorting the port. I ground down the threads down on the end of the nipple and it fit the circumference of the jet perfectly. Runs pretty good now.

Fjcoop@aol.com Subject: Re: Help - Carb Tuning Woes Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 00:06:58 EDT Another issue is needle wear. Over time the needle may rub and wear down the original profile, thus changing the mixture.

JerTigger@aol.com The jets tap out easily with a drift punch, to go back in an 1/8 inch pipe nipple fits nicely over the bottom of the jet and you end up applying the driving force squarely on the shoulder on the jet so you dot have to worry about distorting the jet.

"Landaiche Ken (Nokia/PL)" <ken.landaiche@dlcc.com> I have always used ATF, with reasonable results. Some Lotus types I respect highly use the recommended 20W50 motor oil.

"Landaiche Ken (Nokia/PL)" <ken.landaiche@dlcc.com> Subject: RE: Help - Carb Tuning Woes Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 12:10:49 –0700 The Stromberg needles are turned to an accuracy of 1/10,000". So it can be pretty hard to see or measure wear that affects emissions. On my last CA smog adventure, I ended up changing the jets and needles. It was the only thing that allowed the mixture to be set correctly. And as Mike described, the idle was sweet. Until the smog tester leaned it down to nothing!

Warren Pearce <pearceww@rmi.net> Subject: Re: Help - Carb Tuning Woes Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 18:36:07 –0600 Along with needle wear that Foster mentioned, is jet wear. As we all know, the Strombergs have a spring loaded needle that rubs the side of the jet. After a few years, the wearing of the circular hole in the jet to an oval was easily seen. I have replaced my jets at least twice. My thoughts would be to replace both. Also, I was able to pass the Colorado Smog testing by just leaning the mixture a bit and making sure the timing was right on. I have gathered that it is a good idea to retard the timing a bit, but I've never done any testing. It should be noted that on my TC, the sole purpose of the vacuum diaphragm on the distributor was to retard the timing by 5 degrees at idle. Once you came off idle, the vacuum advance went away.

Jon Lexau <jon.lexau@eng.sun.com> Subject: Re: Europa TC Carbs Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 09:38:15 -0700
kmccormick@cgsinc.com said: > I have a US spec 72 TC with Strombergs that again need attention. The car is running so rich it is fouling the plugs at idle even with higher heat range plugs. The problem is most likely the needle/jets but have not taken it apart for inspection yet. My questions are:

Jon Lexau <jon.lexau@eng.sun.com> Subject: Re: Help - Carb Tuning Woes ken.landaiche@dlcc.com said: > Did you do the replacing? And if so, what's the way to ge the right > depth?

I had mine replaced by Rich Kamp at Kampena Motors in San Francisco. Before I took the carbs in, I measured the depth of the jets to be 0.0875" from the bottom of the piston chamber to the lower part of the "step" at the top of the jet. Rich Kamp suggested that the new jets would be better if pressed in slightly further - he uses 0.050" to the top of the "step".

Bad ASCII art:
carburetor
now 0.05" ^ -- -----+ +----- ---
V --------- |+-+ +-+| ^ - was 0.0875"
|| | | || V
|| +-------+ || ----------
|| ||
|| jet ||

I found this note that I saved from Jerry Rein a while back about how he was able to change the jets ...JerTigger@aol.com said: > I found that an 1/8" pipe nipple fit over the bottom of the jet and was able to drive them in perfectly, except one went in to far. OOPS! > Now how too drive it back down without distorting the port. I ground down the threads on the end of the nipple and it fit the circumference of the jet perfectly.

Warren Pearce <pearceww@rmi.net> Subject: RE: Help - Carb Tuning Woes Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 17:42:07 -0600
Yep, Volvo jets work for the carbs. I used them some years ago. I used a depth gage to measure the depth of the original jets and then pressed the new ones in to the same depth. I agree that I didn't use a micrometer although that might have been a good idea. Rather, I used a vernier caliper. My feelings were (perhaps wrong - I'm sure I will find out now!!) that considering all the other variables, that I didn't need to seat them to a thousandths. I will save the other message with some precise measurements - glad to get that. Also, the bottom of the carb is set up to you can screw in a standard pipe and use an end cap to slowly move the jet in. As I remember (it was a long time ago) I put a lubricant on the jet to help press it in. I think (vague memories) that I used anti-seize compound.

JerTigger@aol.com Do yourself a favor and put new metering jets and needles in while you have the carbs apart. The needle wears on the side of the jet and wears them both down at the same time too small to see but makes a very big difference in running. Order complete rebuild kits plus needles and jets, the needle has a number on it if you pull out slightly the bottom.

"Phil Ethier" <pethier@isd.net> Subject: Re: Twink carbs Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1999 23:06:42 -0600

>My Federal Europa has Stromberg carbs on it. I've heard that they can be troublesome.

Replace them with new SUs. I'm serious. They are better-designed and more tunable. Should bolt on to the head designed for Strombergs, which is more than the Weber and the Weber-clones will do. Also, this keeps you legal for the A Street Prepared class in most USA autocrossing. The machine work needed to put a Weber on your head or the swap to a proper Weber head is not allowed.

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> As a side note, I found an article on adjusting the Temperature Compensators on the Triumph Maintenance Site. If interested: http://www.vtr.org/maintain/index.html will get you there. there are also articles on other british maintenance which applies ( brakes/touchup/washing/polishing).

From: "Jason Rowan" <jrowan@ix.netcom.com> On my S2, there are only two 1/4 inch (approx.) holes at the front of the
closing plate. So I guess Warren's plate was designed for all versions. And there's no extra hole for grounding on mine.

sean murray <snmurray@iol.ie> Subject: Lotus Archives Date: Mon, 8 Mar 1999 16:19:05 GMT
Everett Stephens wrote: Several people ahve noted that they obtained info on original color, assy date, etc. on their Elan. My PO knows very little about the car except what he did to it, and I happen to be an inquiring mind... How do I go about finding out more?

Write, with chassis number, to the Group Lotus archivist at this address :

Mr. Maurice Storey
Database Controller
Group Lotus Ltd.
Hethel
Norwich NR14 8EZ
England

"Rude, Gerald" <GDR1@pge.com> Subject: RE:Europa JPS Date: Mon, 8 Mar 1999 13:01:44 –0800 I too was mistaken about having a JPS. Mine is even the right color (Black/Gold) but to be a "real" JPS, it has to have a plaque on the dash, giving the number. I believe 100 were made for the US market, 100 domestic. It was another sales gimmick at the time which resulted in the Europa Special as we have. I really don't know any other difference between the JPS and the Special. Anyone else out there that can offer up some advice? Jerry Europa Special VIN 4005R

whs018@conrad.appstate.edu Subject: Re: Europa JPS is Special (U) Date: Wed, 10 Mar 1999 07:55:56 -0500 (EST) That's correct; the car does have the Big Valve engine. I do know some of the car's history. It was bought in May 8, 1974, in San Fransico. It was new. The documentation I have lists the car as VIN 4153 R, the color as Sable, and the interior oatmeal. Besides that, I can only find 3 other owners besides me, the last owner being my cousin. When he bought the car, he had it transported here to North Carolina because he was moving back. The car was dropped off at his mom's house and was simply never picked up!:-( Five years later I aquired the car from him (that was a few weeks ago). :-) Cheers, Aaron '74 Europa Special 4153 R

"Rude, Gerald" <GDR1@pge.com> Subject: (U) Cassette Water Pump Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 12:25:51 -0700
I just got off the phone with Ken at Bean, and the new cassette water pump, complete with new timing cover, new back plate and new cassette (with 907 innards) is to be shipped to me later this week !!

whs018@conrad.appstate.edu Subject: Coolants and Ignition Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 15:38:07 -0500 (EST) Today I saw an interesting product: Called propelene glycol, it is a type of coolant supposedly used in race cars. It has a boiling temp of more than 300 degrees and is said to transfer heat better than water. Another property being it doesn't create steam pockets around cylinders. Does anyone on the List use it? I don't know if it would work well in my Europa, but would keep it cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. Its also non-corrosive and non-toxic.

From: Harald Freise <hfreise@fox.nstn.ca> Don't know about the Twink but for the S2 an excellent substitute for the RHS coolant hose (the one that contains the thermostat) is from a 2 litre Cadillac Cimmeron. Yes, you read right Cadillac Cimmeron. I believe that there were a host of other period GM clone cars that had the same engine & body but I can't remember their names. The hose fits like it was made for the Europa S2 (and Gordini), thermostat and all.

From: "Mark MarKell" <Type46@micro-engineering.com> Subject: RE:Europa TC heater help needed Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 07:41:25 –0700 >Yes, I know I dot need a heater now but it gets cold here in the winter, 40-50.

40-50 cold? Gimme a break! That's shirt sleeve weather, and I don't even live close to Ethier and the Loons... ;<)

I've checked and flushed my system prior to putting in the anti-freeze by removing the two hoses at the engine end and driven water from a garden hose through the heater, valve and hoses staying out of the cockpit area entirely. The flow in a good system is hardly restricted at all and will pass a large volume quickly. These systems are pretty simple and if you have an internal block this is an easy way to find out. I'd check the valve first, simply because it's easiest to get to and check, the internal heat radiator second. BTW, the engine gets most of the water pump output and the heater is already restricted by tubing size, so almost any small internal blockage will severely reduce heat output. Garden hose pressure can either flush out or cram in particles, so you should first run the water into the heater outlet side, the tube that does NOT come from the water pump high pressure side. This will back-flush and tend to drive particles back out the direction they (presumably) entered. The last time I did this the Europa heater was working pretty well and I still got a ton of junk out in the first 15 seconds, and it cleared entirely in under a minute.

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: Europa TC heater help needed Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 19:28:22 -0700 JerTigger@aol.com wrote: My 72 TC has the heater valve missing, there is antifreeze in the heater core. Does anyone have a diagram that shows the connections, flow for the heater I > think something is missing the car heats up but doesn't blow hot air. I think something is missing.

"Mark MarKell" <Type46@micro-engineering.com> While looking at Bob Wells Europa autox car at WCLM it occured to me that his oil-to-water heat exchanger is almost identical in shape and size to the heat exchanger that is standard in Toyota MR2's. The MR2 exchanger is mounted on the rear bulkhead between the cockpit and engine and is a tubular
affair about 18" long with water connections out either end and oil connections at right angles on either end. It would fit easily, and similar to Bob's, alongside the engine, inline with the right hand water tube. The water tube would need to be shortened to bring it up further forward than its present position and a 'sandwich' adapter applied to the oil filter to bring out the oil lines. Very small, light possibility.

Steve Brightman <Steve.Brightman@dalsemi.com> Subject: RE: Otter switch Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 09:43:36 -0500
> How tight should the fit be between the otter switch and the grommet in the radiator? In the course of my rebuild, I was just about to pour coolant into the radiator of my Plus 2, when I noticed that I could remove the otter switch with no more force than using my fingers. <

That sounds about normal - mine has always come out quite easily. Thats why there's a spring clip to hold it in place - which IMO is way too flimsy to rely on and so I always put a safety wire around the switch. In spite of the fit I've never had any leaks there. Dry joint? No idea, unless they think if you add any lubricant it will let it slide back out easier or impede heat transfer to the sensor. In my business a dry joint is a definite no no!

The grommet for the otter switch that turns on the Europa radiator fan on, Lotus p/n A036K6027Z, does not have an interior lip. FYI, the Volvo grommet for the same type of switch, p/n unknown, does have an interior lip and the same ID and OD, thus appears suitable as a substitute. The interior lip should provide more security against having the otter switch "blow out" of the radiator. whartenstine@earthlink.net

Mark Hollingsworth <markh@olympus.net> Thanks to Harald, I now have a engine to transfer tube hose. Dayco # 71159. I think it is the lower radiator hose from a 86 Cadallac Cimmaron- 2 litre. I haven't tired it on yet, but it looks like it will work great.

Alan Watkins <awatkins@cerf.net> Subject: Re: Europa Waterpump Date: Tue, 30 Mar 1999 09:30:00 -0800
At 10:29 PM 3/29/99 -0800, Jerry Rude wrote: As all europa owners know, the dreaded water pump is the most dreaded fear of all. It requires removing the engine/trans and removal of the head and oil pan to access the front timing cover/water pump case.

Not so fast. I've had the timing chest off a Europa (Special 5 speed) without removing the engine block, for exactly this purpose (rebuilding the water pump). It's a little tricky but it's not impossible, and it's CERTAINLY easier than removing the transmission OR the engine (not to mention both), which I've also done several times. My recollection is that the only real clearance problem is with one of the coolant pipes, which simply needs to be temporarily bent out of the way and then bent back (or shortened and replace with a longer rubber coupler hose). Unfortunately (I guess) I sold that car about 6 years ago, so I'm relaying all this from memory. However, I didn't invent that disassembly and reassembly process; my recollection is that it was well known in the Europa community at the time, so I'm sure someone else can back me up.

"Alan Watkins" <awatkins@cerf.net> Subject: RE: Europa Waterpump Date: Tue, 30 Mar 1999 19:44:54 -0800
As I said in my earlier posting, yes I've done it, and I don't think it's any particular secret in the Europa world that it can be done (despite someone's earlier incorrect assertion that the engine must be removed). My recollection is that the only direct interference to the timing chest coming off is from one of the coolant pipes, which you can gently bend out of the way. However, I would advise not attempting this unless you've already done the associated disassembly and assembly on a TC engine where you *could* see what you are doing, since in the Europa you would be doing it with very poor visibility of the many fasteners, etc., that you'll be dealing with. Aside from the clearance and visibility problems provided by the Europa the
procedure is well documented in the various shop manuals and books (e.g. Wilkins) that cover the TC engine.

"Rude, Gerald" <GDR1@pge.com> Subject: Europa Waterpump Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1999 06:15:25 -0800
You are correct that you can change the waterpump without removing the engine, (it was me that said you must remove the engine), however, I would not recommend such a task. IMHO, after rebuilding the entire TC, that to try such a task is a bit sadistic :-). I really don't see why removing the engine is harder. Actually, removing this engine, where everything is accessable, is quite a pleasure in contrast to others I've done.

"Mark MarKell" <Type46@micro-engineering.com> Subject: RE:Europa waterpump Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1999 08:31:36 –0800 Pulling the engine and transaxle as a unit is not tough in a Europa and would allow you to A.) become more familiar with your new vehicle and B.) allow you to better evaluate any drivetrain problems and correct some things that may get much worse if the car is driven. If the car has sat for such a long time you may find the clutch is frozen to the flywheel, which is not uncommon and the Hooke joints at the axles may very well need replacing or at least lubed (a failure there is not fun!). It would allow close inspection of the shift mechanism and the flexible brake lines at the radius arms (excellent time to replace with braided lines). In any case I'd bet you'll feel safer if you've had the whole works out once. OTOH, try not to let such an occasion mushroom as it's very common for new owners to pull the whole works and get so involved in upgrading this and that as to not get it back together for years (yes, I've been there). Driving one of these cars, even not completely restored, is a delight and a great motivator!

My US$.02: I would agree with doable, but I'll never do it that way again. I'll remove the engine from now on. Hours (seems like) under a dripping in-car-engine is just no fun. davea@sgi.com

Randall Fehr <rsfehr@seanet.com> There is potentially less tension on the Europa TC water pump pulley because the tension is factory-designed if you use the correct pulleys and belt. There is potentially more tension on an Elan TC because owners and mechanics can over-tension the belt by swinging the generator out.

Mike Causer <mikec@dial.drakken.com> Subject: Re: Twink rebuild—update Date: Sun, 27 Jun 1999 22:54:47 +0100
Aaron Hines wrote: Has anyone used the toothed drive belt (sold by ???) that lowers the tension needed to drive the water pump, hopefully prolonging its life?

Yes, but only on race engines. Works fine, but make VERY sure that nothing comes into contact with it, particularly oil pipes! Neglect of this caused me once to go backwards down Silverstone's GP circuit instead of forwards round the Club circuit -- and an overnight repair session to get the car cleaned & fixed for the next day's race :-( For your Europa, I don't think it's worth it. Because the alternator is driven off the back of one of the camshafts you just don't have to put the tension into the water pump drive, and an ordinary V-belt should give sufficient drive with low enough tension to drive the water pump without loading it up. On a Europa TC I'd expect the pump to last at least 60k miles, not the < 30k that an Elan can do.

g ford <gmfmo@mweb.co.za> I was surprised that the instrument panel forms a structural member and if indeed this is correct will alter my thinking on how to replace the rotten plywood.
The dash facia is indeed a structural member, though maybe not much more than a stiffener for that part of the body. I think it provides a tie between the windshield and the frame and doors to stiffen things and prevent scuttle shake and the like. Note that there is a steel band which bolts to the bottom of the dash and goes all the way across the car, and the bolting to the frame behind the ashtray. Marine plywood should be strong enough, if you can find it in the right thickness, but then you have to veneer it also. I think mine is a maple hardwood beneath the mahogony veneer, having about 5 or 6 plys. You can buy the whole dash panel, complete and finished. It would save you alot of work. In looking at the panel with the gages and everything out, it is very flimsy. I think the steel band and the center section the only real structural parts. Jerry Rude

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: [lotuseuropa] Europa TC charging circuit help needed Date: Mon, 07 Jun 1999 21:27:35 –0700 JerTigger@aol.com wrote: I recently put the instruments back in the car. When I start the car and run it about 1000 rpm the charge indicator lite is on and the ammeter doesn't budge. Rev the car up to about 2000rpm then charge lite goes out and ammeter shows charge. Let car back down to 1000 rpm and lower it still charges. Shut car off restart and it doesn't charge again until it revs up again. I don't know how it worked before as the old ammeter was bad and I had to have the alternator repaired I don't think the charging lite worked before either.

"SMITH, THOMAS B. (JSC-DX)" <thomas.b.smith1@jsc.nasa.gov> If you are not familiar with the voltage regulator, I would take the whole alternator to your local auto parts store, as most will check it out for free (in US, anyway). I don't know if they will give you a diagnosis, but it may tell you something. You can try to bypass the VR, to see if it will charge below 2000 RPM, but I am not familiar with the Lucas design (some switch the ground and others switch the positive supply to the rotor).

Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net> The TC Delco one has a solid state one. But different from the typical Chevy/GM alternator one. I understand you can swap them though, I think there is a Lotus Ltd article in their Europa manual. The fact that he can charge at the lower rpm following a high rpm burst may suggest loose/broken connection somewhere also. They come apart rather easily, and have internal connections which could be suspect.

"SMITH, THOMAS B. (JSC-SP)" <thomas.b.smith1@jsc.nasa.gov> I agree that the external connections could be loose, but if it is like the typical GM alternator, the internal connections are bolted, which IMHO would be less prone to vibration/loose connections.

EUROPA7T@aol.com Subject: B-B-b-bad Horn (U) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 1999 03:20:27 EST
>Steve Shipley wrote: Everything works. I'd never have figured out the bad ground that kept the horn from working. And now I've got a tach, speedo, and hand brake.