This can vary so much that it is difficult to give an accurate response.
To get an idea what a particular Lotus model might be selling for, check out the classified section of one of the better Lotus club newsletters like Lotus Ltd's reMARQUE or the GGLC's Chapman Report or a magazine like Hemming's Motor News or Autoweek. For UK prices try Classic & Sportscar.
Most Lotus parts are still available from a Lotus dealer, though, in the U.S., they probably have to special order everything. There are also a number of other places to get parts from.
Also check :The GGLC parts Xref
From Michael Sands:
The Seven really is a toy and should never be considered for regular
transportation. This is true for a number of reasons.
The open nature of the car is very appealing. You feel one with the road
and the wind. That is true for the first fifteen minutes. After that the
quaint way the wind distorts your face, the rocks pile up in your lap, and
the vibration grinds your teeth wears on you and you look for a reason to
stop. This car cannot be beat if you want performance and road feel. This
car is purpose built and is a street legal race car!
The car is extremely small. My 1986 Caterham weighs 1250 pounds, with me
sitting in it. The only way to achieve such a light weight is to leave
many components off the car and to make the ones you put on it very light.
The car has no doors, for example. The seats are mere cushions resting on
the floor and leaning against the back.
The frame is very light and minimal. This is a key area to inspect. Look
especially at the point where the trailing arms mount to the frame for the
rear axle.
The front suspension is also suspect. I urge you convert the anti-sway
bar to an independent bar, and not have it act as the front upper A arm
member. The bar has a tendency to break right at the pillow block,
leaving you with no steering.
Also look at the rear axle for cracks. You must have the live axle
reinforced with the large metal plate, going from one wheel to the other.
The latest Caterhams have the de Dion rear axle from the Sierra and do not
have problems in this area, however they do not handle as well apparently.
The Kent engine is extremely reliable, a real work horse, still in use
today as an auxiliary power plant. There are large numbers of components
available because it is basically the same as used in Formula Ford racing.
From Mike Causer (mike@setanta.demon.co.uk):
Everything vibrates off, including the rear suspension! If
you get one dismantle it totaly and Loctite it all together.
Noisy as the front row of a heavy metal concert (not that
I've been to one ;-).
Parts can be hard to find.
Good to drive though, if a bit underpowered by modern standards.
From Bob Bandera (rbandera@apsc.com):
One common Elan problem, actually a 1558 TC problem, is the water
pump. I have replaced mine twice within 20,000 miles - the first
time because the bearing was going and the second time for insurance
since the motor was out of the car. I have heard that they can fail
within 20k miles. Overly tight fan belt is an obvious error given
the royal pain it is replacing the water pump.
TCs nearly always leak oil - some typical areas are easily fixed;
the two that I see as difficult are the front timing cover and the
rear rope seal (early motors with 4 bolt cranks)
From Karen C. Babb (kcb4286@aw101.iasl.ca.boeing.com):
Chronic original Elan problem areas:
- rotoflex couplings (check often, replace @25K mile interevals)
- inboard and outboard stub axles, if you race the car at all
- plastic clutch line melting against Sprint headers => fire
- water pump
- frame cracks around engine mounts, rear suspension attachments,
diff
From Ian Peters (ianp@vsl.com.au):
These cars are very reliable if maintaned correctly.
Chassis rust in "rusty" countries.
Chassis fall apart at high mileage if the suspension is not
maintained. (shocks especially)
Handbrake linkages and calipers require constant attention to stay
merely innefective.
Rotoflex couplings should be sprint spec.
The alarm switch in the glove box is invariably faulty and
causes tacho failure/intermittant and various ignition maladies.
Later cars with alternators can eat water pumps.
Corrosion in cylinder head if proper coolants not used.
Stub axles break on cars sprinted or raced
Broken rotoflexes can break calipers off or damage rear suspension
5 speed gearboxes painfull/expensive to rebuild.
These cars are seen as less desirable and therefore less valuable
than an Elan. Some of the backyard engineering used to keep these
cars running is ghastly. Inspect very thoroughly before purchase.
From Ken Landaiche (macorp!ken@uu4.psi.com):
The frame is rusted around the front suspension mounts (worries
me sometimes). The car started its US sojourn in Rhode Island.
The bracket that holds the exhaust fan to the radiator has
cracked (during a track day at Sears Point). The fan thermostat
died and was replaced with a switch by Mr PO (Previous Owner).
The front edge of both seat frames cracked, dropping the seat a
little and giving me some headroom. When I repaired them, I
didn't fit anymore.
The brake vacuum boosters died and disappeared in the car's early
history. I would prefer to have them today.
(That reminds me of a potentially important theme in buying an
Europa: many of them have been raced, which is OK, but the
repairs may not be what you want to live with.)
The California emissions control pipes and what-not have been
removed. This has never been a problem for me though, in getting
it smog-tested.
The carburettor air cleaner assembly is gone. I still haven't
found something that easily fits.
Perhaps the worst problem is that if anything is missing from
the car, it will be so unique that it will be hard or expensive
to replace.
From Dave Van Horn (davevh@microsoft.com):
You should budget for an engine rebuild roughly every 50K miles.
Certainly the head will need going through by then, since the short
valve guides wear quickly and start leaking oil into the cylinders.
The water pump lasts only about 25-30K miles. The short drive
belt => high tension => high stress on the pump pulley bearing.
From John McLaren (100130.1053@compuserve.com):
The rear suspension uses the prop shafts as part of the load
carrying structure. It is vital that the correct shims are fitted
between the inboard drive yokes and the gearbox output. No shims
result in the axial force being exerted onto the roll pins securing
the yokes to the gearbox splined shaft. This results in eventual
destruction of the differential bearings, breakage of the roll pins
and/or wearing of the splines. The problem can usually be detected
early by checking for play in the rear wheels when the car is jacked
up (suspension at full travel).
The engine always tends to overheat, even when the water pump is in
good condition. I found that removing the water thermostat and fitting
a more powerful electric cooling fan worked wonders (although I only
run the car in the summer months).
None reported.
From Alan Perry (esprit@netcom.com):
The rear wheel bearings and u-joints will probably need to
be replaced at 40,000 miles
The cam belts should be replaced at 25,000 miles
The exhaust side motor mount often fails
From Douglas Fraser (Douglas.Fraser@Dartmouth.EDU):
There is the rather serious problem in the '86, '87 (+?) where
the primary catalytic converter can set fire to the inner
fender well.
This happened to me in my '87 after a long, slow drive in a low
gear up Mt. Washington. Moderately high engine revs combined
with very little airflow through the engine compartment.
This catalyst is the small one that most people don't even know
is there, about 10" from the turbine discharge. It gets hot enough
to ignite the fiberglass right through the heat shield. Then the
fiberglass burns between the heat shield and fenderwell where you
can't get at it unless you happen to have an extinguisher with a
rubber hose on the discharge. (Fortunately I did *whew*)
From Douglas Fraser (Douglas.Fraser@Dartmouth.EDU):
The relays that operate the headlight motors are conveniently
mounted right where the water running off the hood can soak them.
It feels a bit silly to be driving this beautiful exotic with one
headlight going up and down, and up and down, and up and down,
and up and down, and up and down.... ;-)
From Jon A. Fairhurst (jaf@lotus.gvg.tek.com):
As I was finishing up a number of maintenance tasks and repairs, my
last item before getting the Esprit back on the road was to connect
the tube from the Fuel Injection MCU (mixture control unit) to the
turbo intake. While attempting the re-connect, it simply crumbled.
Right at the turbo connection. It seems that the heat cycles are too
much for the material.
The hose is like a heavy-duty custom-shaped dryer vent hose. The kind
with the spiral wire in it to keep it from collapsing. The only
difference is that dryer vent hose costs about 15 cents per foot and
this part costs $460.00.
From what I can tell, this problem will occur, over time, to every
instance for this part. The cracking on my '86 had started before
I bought the car (30 K mi., Dec '90), and total failure occured at
40K mi.
My solution: 3 in. of 2-1/4" radiator hose, two additional hose clamps,
and a 3" section of 2-1/4" pipe with one end expanded to fit the old
hose after the dead section was cut off. I got the pipe made at a
muffler shop, and the guy only asked "a couple o' bucks" for his work.
I left a fiver and felt like a big tipper!
It may not be original but It only cost ten bucks, and should last much
longer than the original design.
While this was done on a Bosch injected Turbo, it may also apply to
the Delco injection as well as the carbureted versions. The hose is
a black fabric wrapped, wire-reinforced, rubber/plastic hose, clamped
to the turbo inlet. It is critical that this hose have no leaks, or
your injection calibration will be way off.
From Noel Chiappa (jnc@ginger.lcs.mit.edu):
One major problem is the cars weren't always bolted together well.
I had an engine mount come loose on my '85, after which we
retightened every single bolt/nut on the car. Even after that, some
are loose; the bolt in the console around which the shifter
bellcrank pivots backed its way out while I was in Utah, causing me
to disassemble the center console in the hotel parking lot (the
nearest Lotus dealer being about 1000 miles away...)
Another difficult to find problem was caused when a fuel filter
inside the fuel tank (there are a pair, behind the B pillars on the
side) came loose, letting debris into the electric fuel pump,
seizing it. When this happen, the car loses power, coughs a few
times, and dies on the spot. Since the pump is above the belly pan,
you either have to have jackstands, or flat-bed it. I went through
five or so fuel pumps until I figured out why. Since you can't see
into the tank... A regular paper filter inline before the pump
fixed that.
From Mike Causer (mike@setanta.demon.co.uk):
Power steering pump bracket breaks
Radiator twists in its mountings under hard cornering and leaks
Some people have trouble with overheating in traffic jams - and
conversely the earlier cars had carb icing problems.
Interior materials a bit fragile for family use.
Will go on for ever given proper care.
From Mike Causer (mike@setanta.demon.co.uk):
Gearchange cables frequently fail
Hood (convertible top) seals leak
Accident damage is very expensive to repair
Avoid the NA model at all costs - totally gutless
Exhaust pipes seem to give trouble
Too noisy for high-speed long-distance driving
From Bill Castellano (bill@tss.com):
As for elan m100 potential problems, i'd add a vote for
the leakage from the roof seals... :-) and since i'm having
them checked this monday, the brake proportioning sensors.
from a severe stop, > 40mph, the brake light warning may appear
if the bp valves are bad. easy check.
A 1470cc and a 1565cc version of the Renault R16 were originally used in the Europa-Renault.
As described below, there are other options as well.
Mark Reichert (markr@eye.com) writes:
John O'Connor (joconnor@eicmfg.enet.dec.com) writes:
>Other alternative, get the Renault 16 TS engine and gearbox. (You have
>to reverse the diff of course.) This gives you a crossflow head for
>which you can get all manner of tuning parts (via the Gordini sources)
>and a 5 speed box. The block has the same mounts as the original
>engine and if you want to keep it simple will mate to your current
>transmission. However, it is worth doing the work to put the 5 speed
>box in.
Or, you could use the engine out of an R17. These come in a few
varieties. There's the 807, which is a hemi/crossflow head version of
the 821. I think that this might be the same engine used in the R16TS.
The block is the same. The pistons are different (to account for the
changed head). Then there's the 843, which a 1647cc version of the 807.
Parts are more available for the 843, as Renault used them in the R17,
R18, and some Fuegos. [I've also seen reference to the 844, which seemed
to be *the* hot setup, but I've been unable to locate one of these
engines.]
Used 843's can be had in the $300 price range. 807's seem to cost a
little more. They are rarer, and rumor has it that they can be tuned
better. I don't know that I believe that rumor.
Both of these engines used Bosch fuel injection at some point, so it's
available if you want it (like I do). I think the 807's used D-Jet. The
843's used L-Jet (L-Jet+Lambda in the R18 & Fuego). If you want fuel
injection, it's best to get the intake plenum off of an R17, as the later
cars went to longer intake runners which probably won't fit in the S2
engine bay.
An 843 will bolt up to your S2's 336 gearbox, but *some* 843 blocks have
their motor mount points moved, so new brackets need to be fab'd.
There are also some issues with belts, pulleys, and exhaust on the 843
that I'd be glad to discuss with anyone whose considering this upgrade.
I've put an 843 in the S2 that I'm restoring.
Here's some info on differences among the renault engines:
Stock Europa Stock Stock
821 821 807 843
----- ------ ----- -----
Valve Timing
------------
Inlet opens deg BTDC 10 35 21 24
Inlet closes deg ABDC 42 65 59 68
Exhaust opens deg BBDC 46 65 59 68
Exhaust closes deg ATDC 10 35 21 24
Valve Size (mm)
---------------
Inlet 35 37.5 40 42*
Exhaust 31 31 35.35 35.35
Compression Ratio 8.6 10.25 7.6,8.6 9.6
Static Advance (deg) 0 4 0 4
* = The Haynes manual lists this as 40mm, the one in *my* 843 was 42mm.
[Sources: Haynes R16 manual, europa workshop manual]
Note that the stock 843 has 25% more area for the intake valves, and
30% more area for the exhaust valves.
The Haynes R17 manual gives info for 843 valve timing that conflicts with
what the R16 manual says. I don't remember the exact numbers, but the net
effect was a duration a few degrees greater than the Europa 821 cam. Also,
the 844 cam was reported to give an extra 10 degrees duration beyond that
of the 843.